1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy) [Archive]

FetchMeAPepsi

January 27th, 2013, 01:05 AM

Here we go guys - and my kids will be here so please remember that in the comments and keep them G rated - This is Cecilia. She is named after the old Simon and Garfunkel song that I only knew the chorus to at the time.
Don't google it. The rest of the song isn't really for all audiences :lol:

"Cecilia, you're breaking my heart! You're shakin' my confidence daily!"

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The name came to me as I was trying to get her started and the song kept playing through my head. And it kinda fits. We've been trying it out for a while now. It "feels" right.

Previous owner said everything was original except for a little mud in the corners and the turn signal, which broke on him and he couldn't find a replacement. It has an alternator too, but I didn't have the heart to tell the old timer that they came with generators. And I don't mind, thought I'd kinda like to have a generator some day.

These pix are a bit newer because she has her fenders off. They were removed prior to transport.
I'll have pix of that soon. I like to do "step by step" documentation so it'll kinda be like that i guess.

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My youngest driving

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The seat is a style I haven't seen before, though it looks like it has been clipped to the springs since heck was a pup

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Kids making memories and butt-prints

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Kids driving and playing "What's this lever/button/knob do?"

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Eating apples in the bed. Something about "Cecilia" makes the kids hungry. In the first week we've had snacks on her five times, lunch three times, and dinner twice. Wife wasn't home :lol:

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This is one of my best little helpers and the most ardent supporter of my buying Cecilia. I think she's angling for an inheritance.

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My plan right now is just to get her up and running well. Today was bolting the cowling corner back on, airing the tires and moving her to the backyard so I can work in private. I'd like to paint her back to the original color too but any talk of paint and the kids get all weepy eyed. They're patina fans and I haven't even talked to them about "patinas". They just like the look. We'll see how that goes. I also want to add PS because she's a longstepper and she turns on a half dollar. Whew!

This might end up going anywhere by the time it's over. Flames and a flux capaciter anyone?

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With my hip being what it is my oldest helper volunteered to air all four tires for me so i don't have to get up and down. And she hates getting dirty. She's a peach.

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This weekend is a carb rebuild and a general cleaning. Perhaps some brillo on that crappy rattle can primer.

Next weekend I'll replace that passenger window and work on getting the original AM radio with the letters GMC on it running. If you're working on these old trucks and haven't sampled the same music the guys that built it were listening to...well, you're missing out! :metal:

Funny story, right now while we tinker with her we're piping an old record out the window, "K-Tel's Looney Tunes, 24 Great Hilarious Songs"

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Our Playlist:

"They're Coming to Take Me Away" by Jerry Samuels aka Napoleon XIV
"Along Came Jones by The Coasters
"Hello Mudduh, Hello Fadduh!" by Alan Sherman
"The Bird's the Word" by The Rivingtons
"Kookie, Kookie (Lend Me Your Comb)" by Edward Byrnes
"The Witch Doctor" by David Seville
"Baby Sittn' Boogie" by Buzz Clifford
"Transfusion" by Nervous Norvus
"Little Eeefin Annie" by Joe Perkins
"Haunted House" by Jumpin Gene Simons
"My Boomerang Won't Come Back", by Charlie Drake
"The Streak" by Ray Stevens
"Rubber Duckie" by Harv Norman
"Tip-Toe Through The Tulips With Me" by Tiny Tim
"Charlie Brown" by The Coasters
"Ape Call" by Nervous Norvus
"Shaving Cream" by The Hustlers
"Papa-Oom-Mow-Mow" by The Rivingtons
"My Old Man's a Dustman" by Lonnie Donegan
"Little Red Riding Hood" by Sam The Sham & The Pharoahs
"Dinner With Drac" by John Zacherie
"I Love Onions" by Susan Christie
"Mother-in-Law" by Ernie K-Doe
"Chipmonk Song" by David Seville and The Chipmunks
Now if that doesn't make you scratch your head and slap the closest person to you I don't know what will.

We did finally get her running enough to move to the back but I ran outta gas midway through the gate. :lol: It's a good thing these great old trucks can bump forward with the starter if necessary. The gas tank was covered by the fence.

5 gallons of pure gas (no ethanol) later and she was running-ish again. At least enough to backed her into her new home. She runs like a one legged duck.

She still has the original 305 V6 engine in her too. The cool thing about that is that by modern numbers it puts out 175hp & 388 ft/lbs of torque and back then it was only rated at 142hp & 260 ft/lbs of torque. They rated hp and torque different back then which explains the difference in the numbers.
Oh and it weighs 840 lbs! That's just the engine!

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BarryGMC

January 27th, 2013, 01:21 AM

Way cool, good to see the help. My oldest "17" going on smarter than me wants My 60. She may some day

FetchMeAPepsi

January 27th, 2013, 02:13 AM

Way cool, good to see the help. My oldest "17" going on smarter than me wants My 60. She may some day

thanks! My teen is just hitting that stage. She's 16 now and getting a little free with the 'whatever's. I have to whack that mole from time to time to keep her in place. Thank goodness she's a good kid. If that's the worst we ever have I'll be a happy man.

I'll probably still have to kill the first two boys that come sniffin around and put their heads on spikes in the yard, but that's part of the territory.

FetchMeAPepsi

January 27th, 2013, 02:14 AM

More pix -

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Dual original visors :)

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And the damaged pass side. I'm going to bang around on it some, but am not entirely against buying a replacement.
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FetchMeAPepsi

January 27th, 2013, 02:16 AM

Have any of you seen a seat like this? This is the first one I've seen. The orig owner said it was all stock but I've never seen one in an ad or a build or anything.

FetchMeAPepsi

January 27th, 2013, 02:47 AM

Click any of the links to see larger pictures.
I'm very lucky to have these little curtain climbers. This is a great opportunity to get them outside with their dad. :)

My future wrench turner trying the seat out

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Lunch on the tailgate with my son. It doesn't get any better than this.

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My son and my "powder puff mechanic" taking turns. The seat is like a trampoline due to it's age.

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My powder puff mechanic posing with my busted up old tailgate.

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My oldest trying out the wheel. "What's this other pedal for?" Ha ha

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And finally the carnivorous Cecilia and my powder puff mechanic being a ham. This is now my avatar with her yelling "HELP" in a word bubble.

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FetchMeAPepsi

January 28th, 2013, 03:47 AM

I like to keep records and how-tos so that's how most of my updates will be formatted. Hopefully it helps someone, if not it'll help me if and when I start another project.

And it helps to troubleshoot my many, many mistakes when I know the road I've been down.

So without further adeu, a carb rebuild is in order for my baby Cecilia.

FetchMeAPepsi

January 28th, 2013, 03:57 AM

Cecilia's going to be a daily driver one day so the first job on the table is making her more reliable. Right now she runs like a one legged duck on a whack-a-mole table. I started with a carb (carburetor) rebuild. I'm sure it's the wrong thing to do. Most of the things I choose to do are probably wrong. I've learned to live with it :D

My carb is still the original Stromberg WW model. I plan to upgrade to a Holley 4410c 500 CFM eventually, but I want to have everything else running smoothly before that happens. So I bought a GP Sorenson Carb Kit from Autozone for $37.99. The part number is 96-574.

The carb kit does NOT come with a float, in fact the computer told the little guy at Autozone that this carb doesn't need a float. He was like, "Ok, now this computer is just flat out lying to me." Points for the parts guy having a sense of humor :)

I got my kit home and waited until the weekend when I'd have someone watching my youngest and I could draft my main helper for photography duty.

Saturday it was bacon, eggs, biscuits and gravy, pain killers for the hip, and then off to Cecilia with my child number 2 in tow.

For this project I needed:
(sorry for the metric, someone stole my standard wrenches just a week ago. A pox on their house!)

12 MM wrench
13 MM wrench
15 MM wrench
Flathead screwdriver
Carburetor cleaner or dip (dip preferred! 27.90 @ Autozone)
2 or 3 old towels
About 4-6 hours. I did mine over two days and 8 hours to allow the JB Weld to cure.

As you can see I have the old style oil bath air cleaner. It'll be cleaned too by the time this is over. Start by removing the wing nut on the top of it.

Click any of these images to see a larger version.

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I always just set the nut on top of the air cleaner so I don't lose it. This won't work if you don't put the air cleaner in a safe place though. Watch for gremlins stealing those wingnuts. They're like candy to them.

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Then just lift the entire air cleaner away. OOOh, Ahhhh!

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Next we remove the gas line. If your large brass connection isn't very tight then you'll need to use two wrenches to remove the smaller brass fitting, with one holding the large fitting stationary while the small one turns. I'm using a 15mm and a 13mm shown here.

There *could* be a screen in here so be careful. Mind did not have one. Gremlins, I tell you.

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Now unhook the large spring. I don't know all of the official terms for everything so we'll call this the Large Throttle Spring Of Doom. Be careful because it is under tension. Tension is what gives it a hunger for blood.

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Then pull free the linkage (metal bar) that the Large Throttle Spring Of Doom was hooked into.

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At this point I reached around the back of the carb to remove the brass fitting that runs to the vacuum advance. Here I'm using a 12 open ended wrench.

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Now come back to the throttle linkage. Unscrew the top screw just a couple of turns. This screw holds the wire that's poked through underneath it. We're just wanting it to let go of the wire, we're not trying to remove the screw.

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There's another screw that we need to loosen directly behind the one we just did. There's a nut on the back end of it (indicated by my ugly finger) so don't unscrew it too much or you'll be chasing it down a spark plug hole.
Just unscrew it a couple of turns and disconnect the cable by pulling it out to the side.

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Here's me pulling it to the side. I bet you're glad you saw this. You're so well informed.

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Now pull the little wire free from the top. It MAY be bent around to help hold it in place. If so just unbend it. It doesn't need to be bent if your screw is tightened properly anyway. Leave it straight. Straight is how God intended.

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Congrats! At this point we've removed all of the "stuff" hooked to the carburetor! Pat yourself on the back - well, no. Your hand is filthy. What's wrong with you? Born in a barn? Ask someone else to pat you on the back. That will also give you the opportunity to tell them how manly and tough you are for making it this far.
Ohhh Yeahhh!!

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Ok, back to work, Superman. You've only got four nuts left and you're in the clear!

I'm using a 15mm wrench to remove these. DO NOT DROP THE NUTS. They're very difficult to fish out of the spark plug holes. Where Gremlins live. And they bite.

Remove the nut located here:

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And here (don't mind my Photographer in the background):

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Then here:

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And finally here, under all that spaghetti we just took loose.

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My carb had lock washers, but only on the front two bolts. Again, do NOT DROP THESE or you'll have a heck of a time fishing for them in spark plug holes. Don't believe me? Go ahead Mr. Know it all. Drop one. I double DOG dare ya!

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Now just lift the entire carb up and off!
You'll be left with this.

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Eww. That's anticlimactic.

Here's what it looks like with the bottom plate removed. You can see how tall the lip is without the plate. Now is a good time to poke a clean(ish) rag in the intake hole so you don't drop crud down there and ruin your engine.

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My bottom plate had this really cool homemade gasket on it. It was made from what I assume was the box that the previous carb repair kit came in. It looked about like a cereal box only much thinner. They just tore off a piece and mashed it on the bolts. There were little bits of superthin cardboard everywhere.

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I pulled off most of the cardboard but several pieces were pretty stuck. They'll come off in the dip though.

With the carb removed and placed on these very manly pink and turquoise towels that my wife donated to my project, we'll get back to the dissassembly by straightening and removing the cotter pin shown at the top of the remaining linkage.

Sort of...My photographer had a hard time fixing the shot in the bright sunlight. :)

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These cotter pins were very thin so bending them with a thumbnail was no trouble. Now we remove the lower cotter pin.

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Remove the final bit of linkage.

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Now we remove the riser off of the "air horn", which is a fancy way of saying the top tube off of the carb. This screw has a nut on the other end, but it's clamped in there. You shouldn't be able to lose it, but don't try really hard just in case.

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Now just remove the riser by pulling it straight up.

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FetchMeAPepsi

January 28th, 2013, 04:01 AM

Then look at what's left. You have three main parts of the carb standing in front of you. The air horn on top, then the main body and finally the bottom part, which I forget the name of right now. We'll call it "the bottom plate" for now. My helper said we should just call it "Bob".

Remove the screws connecting the air horn to the main body. They're located here:

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and here. This one also releases the brace that the throttle cable connected to. Don't lose them, store them together.

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Then here...

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And here...

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on to here...

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Then here, and this one's kinda hidden so pay attention :)

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There are two long springy plungers under the main body so as you pick it up be careful to come out pretty straight and hold it over something like my awesomely manly pink and turquoise towel (mentioned earlier). You never know when stuff will fall out. If it does, don't sweat. We'll show you where it goes later.

Lift the air horn off of the main body.

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Be careful with the next portion. There's a little BB (yes, like you'd shoot in a BB gun) rolling around in two parts of the carb. The first part is right under this spring, which you might need to fish out with a screwdriver.

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Now pour out the BB into your hand slowly so it doesn't jump out and run off.

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Here's a pic of everything we have done so far, with screws in the order they were removed, left to right...

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Here it started getting HOT under that boiling sun. We had to set up a little tent shade from Cecilia's cover. It worked OK for the time being.

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Our shelter set up, we continued by removing these little needles. There are two of them.

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Now remove the cotter pin from the pump piston if you have one on it. Mine didn't. Say it with me now....Gremlins!

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Mine also had a washer on the top of it with a spring poking through the hole. I'm 99% sure that was NOT factory rigging. When we rebuild we'll leave both the spring and the extra washer off. It's not pictured in my manual at all.

Unless that breaks something. Then we'll just make it ugly again.

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Here my expensive internet downloaded carb manual said to - and I kid you not - take a block of wood and a small wrench to pry out the vacuum piston pump (the second springy thing, located in the center of the carb). I thought, well that's weird. But if you say so...

My vacuum piston was stamped in and no amount of gently tugging would pull it loose. So I obliged it as directed and sent the top flying off into the sunset. DO NOT DO THIS, though it made a beautiful SPROING noise.

I found out later you don't even need to remove the vacuum piston as there isn't anything you need to replace in there. UGH.

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Oh, and of course you can't buy this part for anything. Instead I had to get a magnet and fish the yard for the cap then I JB Welded it back together. It'll disintegrate over time in the gas but I plan to replace it anyway so no sweat there. It just has to work for a few weeks.

Anyway, lesson learned. Fun stuff keeps the boredom away, right? :D

So moving on, we remove this big screw holding the throttle cable connections. Be careful though, there's a tiny spring on the back of the connections (shown below)

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You only need to unhook one side of the spring, the side that hooks to the carb. The other side should be stuck on due to a pinch in the linkage. Just gently remove the whole thing and set it aside. We'll dip the entire thing as a family project.

Next remove the brass fitting on the outside of the carb where the gas went in. My photographer had a potty/lunch break and took my camera so no pix. It's pretty easy though. Just unscrew it with a wrench and pull out the little rocketship looking pin inside by unhooking it from the float with a screwdriver.

Then use the same screwdriver to unhitch the metal pin on the float side of the carb holding the back of the float in. It'll spring off by itself if you're not careful so put a hand over it as you pop it loose.
Then remove the float and it's little pin that holds it in place.

Here's a pic of the stuff we've removed so far, in order from left to right, in rows top to bottom.

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Now find some small wire to clean out the pins. Don't laugh, I have some of the wife's flower arrangement wire here. It works. Shut up. :P

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There are four more holes to clear while you're at it. The two inner ones are inside the smooth walls. You might have to hunt around for them. The outer ones are the big boobie looking nubs sticking up.

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Now grab the trusty screwdriver again and remove this center piece. There is another even smaller BB under this so be careful.

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Again, be careful when you remove it...There's another BB under it.

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Then pour out the little BB inside.

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Now flip the whole thing over and take off the bottom big screws. These cover your jets. We won't be removing the jets this time but we will clean them out with the wire. Removal is unnecessary.

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Under those big screws is two very dirty, probably invisible copper washers. Remove them and set them aside in case your new ones break when installing. Then clean the jets inside with the wire.

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Now remove the vacuum brass fitting on the outside of the carb.

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Now we begin removing the four little screws on the very bottom. These hold on "the bottom plate", or Bob if you prefer.

They're located here...

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And here

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And here...

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And finally here.

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FetchMeAPepsi

January 29th, 2013, 07:26 PM

After that just lift off "the bottom plate" and set it aside. This completes the disassembly portion of our show!

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You can now start cleaning your parts! Grab a wipe-off towel and it better be a big one because you'll have almost a full towel of funk.

I took the air horn and dipped in the dip for 20 mins. The instructions say 15-30 mins. 20 mins seemed ok. Here's a before and after. I did have to dip the main body for two 30 min rounds though (not shown).

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Now it's safe to reattach the top back on the air horn. There is no replacement gasket in your bundle so treat it carefully.

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Continue dipping parts, wiping them, and putting them back in their order. Set a timer so you get a reminder and keep parts moving through the dip. A simple egg timer that you steal from the kitchen is perfect. Buy her another one though because it's going to get nasty.

While that's happening we can open some plastic. Yummy fresh parts.

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This is part of what all you'll replace from the first package.

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You'll also replace these parts...

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And here's the old ugly ones.

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Next open up your new piston assembly. There's a bit of cardboard on the end of it - don't remove that until we're ready to put it back inside the carb.

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The old parts...

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Reassembly will commence tomorrow after the JB Weld dries

FetchMeAPepsi

January 29th, 2013, 07:29 PM

You'll also have alot of gaskets in the kit but don't worry about them just yet.

Keep putting parts in the dip and don't forget to save a big piece to put in on top of the float because....wait for it....

It floats. :D

And keep toweling them off as they come out. Once they're all dipped, it's time to start the rebuild.

Screw this screw in. It's the one with the little pin coming out of the top.

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Then put this screw and cover in. Remember that there's a little tiny BB under it. Don't forget that!

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Then put the vacuum fitting back on. There is no washer or anything for it.

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Then put the pin back in the float and drop it back in.

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Don't forget your new keeper pin!

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Use your screwdriver to gently work it back up under the lip that holds it in place.

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Then put your little rocket ship piece (I think it's called a needle valve) back in and use the included keeper wire to hold it to the float again.

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Bend the end of it around with the screwdriver to make sure it stays put.

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Now you can install the fancy new fuel fitting. I later found out this fitting didn't fit my gas line and had to revert to the old fitting. Never throw anything away until you finish!

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The float shouldn't need adjusting, but it's a good idea to do so anyway. Flip it over and make sure that with the float hanging upside down (dangling) that it closes the little rocket ship into your new fuel fitting. If it doesn't close it off then you need to bend the arm on the float so that it does.

Flip the main body over now and find a gasket that looks like it fits.

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Then get your screws to bolt "Bob" back on. Two fat screws go in the middle.

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Two thinner screws go on the outside.

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Put your jet covers back on, remember your new shiny copper gaskets!

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Grab the "air horn" (top of the carb) and your fuel piston pump. Poke one through the other.

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Pop a cotter pin through it.

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Put the stupid vacuum pump piston that I broke and JB Welded in. That I hate. Stupid part. Grr.

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Put these pins back in. Remember that there are two.

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Fnd our larger BB and drop it in the fuel pump piston hole.

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Drop the spring back in. Boioioingggg!

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FetchMeAPepsi

January 30th, 2013, 12:53 AM

Go through your gaskets and find one that fits.

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Get your air horn again and pull the cardboard piece off of the fuel piston.

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Fit the gasket over the pistons.

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FetchMeAPepsi

January 30th, 2013, 12:53 AM

Put the air horn back on the main body. Try to keep the gasket lined up. If you can rock it forward and backward like a hobby horse then it's likely hanging up on those needles we put in. You should be able to wiggle it gently and get it to seat properly.

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Then start putting your screws back in the air horn. I like to put them all in then tighten them like you do a wheel, going from one side to the other so they seat as flat as possible. Does it matter? Probably not.

I tighten them just enough to start really pinching the gasket tight.

The first screw we do has that accelerator cable tie-down. Don't forget it like I did. That's why it isn't shown in the second pic. Whoops!

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For this one make sure the little brass plate is pointing up so the next owner isn't swearing at you :D

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Your air horn is now attached! Let's do the spaghetti.

FetchMeAPepsi

January 30th, 2013, 12:55 AM

Grab your wrench looking piece of linkage and hook the wrench portion on the bottom of the carb.

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Then hook the little spring on the back up and run the screw through it. Don't tighten it.

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Here's a side view so you can see. You need to make sure the wrench shaped linkage is hanging on the screw you just ran in, not butted up to the carb. THEN start screwing it down. It should move freely once you get it screwed down.

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Put the link that looks like an "S" through the bottom part

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Then the top.

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And cotter key them both.

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Now find a gasket to fit the bottom of "the bottom plate". This one obviously belongs in an art bucket at a pre-school. It doesn't fit. I have to say that for legal reasons so you don't try to use it and cause a thermo-nuclear reaction in your intake manifold.

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FetchMeAPepsi

January 31st, 2013, 04:15 AM

This one looks better.

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The block goes on top of that gasket.

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Then another gasket to seal it to the intake manifold.

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Now flip it back to where you can see the mixture screws pictured below. There are two, one on each side of the float bowl.

Put your screwdriver in one of them and hold it very loosely. This is so that you can tell when it gets lightly seated (snug, not tight!). Now turn it clockwise and COUNT the turns, quarter turns, or half turns etc. as you tighten them. REMEMBER THIS NUMBER. Write it down if you need to.

(This picture was taken after remounting b/c I forgot to reset them myself while it was off)
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Once they're very lightly snug you now need to back them out again to set them. I was talking to an old timer about it and he said this:

Gently seat the Idle Mixture Screws again like you did before (tighten them till they're just barely seated). Now unscrew them two full turns. Start the engine and make sure the choke is wide open. Turn each screw in 1/2 turn at a time until the engine rpm starts to drop. Then back them both out equally until you reach the highest rpms possible. LEAVE THEM THERE.

Idle Screw: Now just adjust the idle screw (by the spaghetti near the choke cable) till it's where you want the RPMs to be. That's it. Purrs like a kitten.

I'd trade the entire internet for a handful of old timers with great stories.

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That is how they should be set for life. Forget they exist now. Unless it runs like crap afterward, then go back to what they were and see if that fixes it. You remember what they were, right? You wrote it down.
I just know you did.

:D

At this point we can move back to the engine bay. The end is in sight!
Remove the rag you put in the intake now. Be sure to jerk it straight up so as not to knock something off of your dirty engine into the intake.

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Then place your first gasket, your block (if you have one), and your second gasket (again, if you had a block) on the bolts and line them up.

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Set the carb down on it's new perch.

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FetchMeAPepsi

January 31st, 2013, 04:17 AM

I forgot to dip my nuts and lock washers so I did that now. 10 mins in the drink!

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Then it's on the carb mounts. Again I like to tighten them opposite, like a wheel. I tighten them good and snug again. Not tight, just snug enough to pinch the gasket.

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Then attach the throttle cable to the top and tighten the screw.

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Attach the rear clamp and tighten. Remember it has that little nut on the underside so don't unscrew it much.

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Connect the large spring to the linkage shown.

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Hook up the fuel line.

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And finally fire it up and see if it runs. It has zero gas in the float bowl so remember that it might not start quickly the first time.
After you get it to fire up it should start easily after that.

If it runs put the air cleaner back on it. My photographer had a problem with the loud motor running so it's a little off center lol.

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A little note about the air cleaner. I had intended to clean it as well but I ran out of weekend and painkillers so it got pushed back to next weekend. Sorry about that :(

If all went well the last step is to take the kiddos and the ugly mutt for a spin around the block!

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Congrats, you just rebuilt a carburetor!

If you noticed something I did and shouldn't have done, or missed doing entirely, speak up! This was my first carb rebuild. I enjoyed it quite a bit.

My only issues after mounting were gas coming out of the carb piston hole and a rough idle, both of which were fixed by adjusting the float then adjusting fuel mixture screws as described earlier. My mixture screws were an entire revolution off.

BarryGMC

January 31st, 2013, 05:24 AM

Good job. Carbs are not to hard. Old rig people should all learn about the carbs in their rigs it saves a lot of trouble. BTW get an extra fuel pump and carb kit, and if you can find one a float. The floats sometimes crack after 50 years. Put this in your goodie box so when your on the sunday drive you can deal with the problems that can occur. Barry C.

FetchMeAPepsi

February 1st, 2013, 01:11 AM

I thought about buying another 1 since they were so cheap. i should do that before they just stop selling them altogether i guess. good tip!

FetchMeAPepsi

February 1st, 2013, 01:16 AM

Had a couple of spare keys made today.

The kid at Ace Hardware couldn't figure out which blank to use. Only one key on the rack looked like mine so I pointed at that one and said, "Maybe that one?"
He gave me that "I know what I'm doing" look and kept looking through the blanks.

He then grabbed a key from some truck in the 80's or late 70's and said, "Lets try this."
It looked nothing like my key. Did it work?
Nope.

So being an intelligent man of many months of keymaking experience and whatever knowledge he gleaned from his day job as a high school student, he proceeded to pull out his IPhone and said, "Siri, what is the key blank for a 1962 GMC K1000?"

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Siri told him "B10".

He hung up on her (or ended her, whatever) and grabbed the key blank I had originally pointed to and said, "Well, I guess this is it."

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Worked perfectly.

:D

FetchMeAPepsi

February 1st, 2013, 01:40 AM

Rear Stepside Fender Removal

This was pretty straightforward. I talked to a guy that supposedly knew "everything" about old trucks (he was probably 25 yrs old lol) and he swore that the bolts were welded in after being run into nuts that were welded to the frame.

Doesn't look welded:

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Being of the hard-headed tight-wadded Scottish variety I grabbed an oversized Phillips and gave it a quick spin. It complied after just a little effort. Harumph! Turns out they're just fancy Phillips head screws with regular washers on the back side, followed by a lock washer, and finally a regular run of the mill nut. Oh, and rust. LOTS of rust.

Since I have to de-dent them and paint them anyway I decided to remove them. Here's a breakdown of the entire process start to finish.

Tools you will need:

About 12 hours of time, give or take an hour. Better allow a whole weekend.
Two hands
Can of PB Blaster
Ratchet
One deep well 1/2 socket
One shallow well 1/2 socket
One standard hammer
One pair of vice grips
One more person if you're lucky (not required)
A beautiful wife to bring you drinks when it's 108 degrees outside
and Gloves if you're a leetle girly man

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We're going to PUMP you UP!!!

First off, these are kinda heavy and the rusted bolts can be daunting, but honestly I've got a bad back, a busted hip, and I weigh a buck 75 after a big meal so if I can get these off so can you. I promise.
Just glom on to it and get started!

First you get it through your thick head that you're not going to save all of these precious, fantastically patina'd old bolts. I really wanted to. I so wanted to. I spent nights dreaming about a perfect period specific phillips head bed bolts. I even bought this hardened steel screw removal set ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ) for EIGHTY hard earned bux in order to get them out.
However reality has a way of kicking you in the face when you want something too much.

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Note the beautifully rounded out hole. :(

If I had it to do again and owned the tools I'd have simply cut all of the bolts off and been done with it inside of an hour. Instead I'm a poor boy with few tools and even less brains. So here's how I did it.

Beginning the night before you should take your can of PB Blaster (or similar spray) and really hose each bolt down well on both sides of the bolt. There are 18 bolts for each fender if you include the bumper to fender bolts. Hit them all really well.

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Be sure to spray both sides of the places where the bumper bolts to the fender too. Those suckers sit in sand, rain, snow, salt, etc. and probably will bust in two when you put any torque on them if you're lucky. If not prepare to lose some skin.

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Once that's done take your hammer and give six or seven light taps (just the hammer's weight really) on each bolt to set up some fluid movement. Do this before 8pm so you don't make the neighbors mad. No sense in turning them off to your truck before you've had a chance to get them hooked on the beauty of it.

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Then get a good night's sleep. You'll need it.

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The next morning go out there and photograph your baby because she's about to lose her knickers. :eek: Ok, on to the work!

Get your tools laid out beside you within reach. Nothing like needing a socket on the nut only to find that it's 30 ft away and if you move from your current position it'll cause the entire truck to fall over on it's side and end space-time as we know it.

Next take your handy dandy human eating vice grips and clamp them on to the phillips head bolt as hard as you can get them to stick. You'll have to repeat this step several times as they come loose while you're turning the opposing nut.

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If you're lucky enough to have a buddy or one of your offspring helping you, just have them hold the vice grips still for you while you turn the nut on the other side. They can also re-attach them if they come off (if your helper is strong enough. You gotta clamp them down HARD). If you're doing this by yourself you can grab a cinder block and put it in front of the grips so they can't spin very much. It works ok. Sometimes it moves and you scrape a half acre of hide off of your pinkie.

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Then put your trusty socket on the other side and get with it.

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Remember to PUSH or PULL the socket based on what is on the other side of your hand. Don't push if a sharp piece of metal is facing your hand. And don't pull if you're pulling towards a dangerous piece of metal either. Safety keeps you turning wrenches.

I'm using impact wrench sockets because I hate when sockets break off in my hand and I still have work to do. Of course with these being extremely hard, harder than your rusty bolts, you'll end up making some two fisted bolts.

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It happens. :(

Oh, and the little struts don't have washers on them. Only lock nuts.

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Also, I just about never found the screw head for this little sucker. I thought it went into the frame somewhere but it turned out to be another in-the-bed bolt buried under a bunch of walnut husks, dirt, and plywood that the PO (previous owner) had used to cover the rotted bed wood. Tada! (Pic is upside down - sorry for my ugly hand)

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These bumper to fender screw/bolts cost me the most skin. The first one sheared off after the second grunt, the second one on the fifth. Blood and water flowed!

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For the other side I actually had to take a bastard file and file it down. Then I broke it off and pulled it through the hole from the back side with my cheap vice grips. Didn't damage any of the body, but the bumper got a few more scrapes on it. Sadsauce.

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Note this bolt (pictured below) on the bottom side of the fender is backwards to the others. The nut is on the inside (facing the differential) instead of facing the fenderwell.

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Because of these lower ones being backwards, you might have to lie down in the dirt and put the flesh eating vice grips on the inside of the fender. This makes them happy because when they break loose and fall they aim for your eyeballs.

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If you take them off from the rear of the fender to the front of the fender you might find yourself lying on your back turning on that last bolt while you hold the fender up with a foot and pray it doesn't fall on your head. Fun!

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And if everything went well you'll be rewarded with a bolt/nut roundup like this one...(pictured in order of removal)

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...and possibly a glimpse at 50 year old paint that has gone untouched since it was first sprayed on by some 20 year old kid named Buddy. Man, there's nothing like that blue/white two toned color on these classic trucks!

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And as for those cheap vice grips (that weren't cheap to me!), well they quit about halfway through. Even this little shaved bit off the corner made a profound difference in how well they grabbed the bolt heads.

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All in all I came out of it with the knowledge that you pay twice for cheap tools (priceless), 12 hours of my life gone along with about 8 inches of skin and a pair of cheap vice grips. Speaking of which, why do they create vice grips and infuse in them a thirst for human flesh? Not funny, Stanley, Craftsman, et al. Not funny at all!

George Bongert

February 1st, 2013, 04:18 AM

Greetings, Fetch me a Pepsi!

Great pix, looks like you've got a nice truck in Cecilia, well worth restoring! Seeing all of those pix, and the songs you mentioned, took me all the way back to the 60's when I was just a teenage lad, and you couldn't go anywhere without seeing one of these old GMC's on the road somewhere. Although those old GMC's don't have all of the bells and whistles that the new ones do, I think I'd prefer the old GMC, when a truck was a truck, and could be used for more than just going to the store to get groceries!

George Bongert
Oshkosh Wisconsin

FetchMeAPepsi

February 1st, 2013, 08:49 PM

You said it George! i get a kick out of these old tunes. they just seem to fit with the truck.

"Please mr custer....I don't wanna go...."
"FORWARD HO!!!"
"no!"

FetchMeAPepsi

February 1st, 2013, 08:50 PM

Since we spruced up the carb let's go ahead and knock the crud off the engine while we're at it. Click any pic to see a larger version.

For this task you'll need:

9/16 Wrench
Wrench for your battery cables, whatever size they are (this varies widely)
Prybar or crowbar to tighten your belt
About 20 oz Simple Green. $5 bux at Walmart
A plastic bag
A zip tie or coat hanger (wire, not plastic)
A water hose
Um...water
About 15 minutes, then about 20 minutes four hours later.

First we'll cover the DO NOT's.

Do NOT do this:
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Or this:

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Or this either:

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Or this, even if you saw it on TV and it wasn't fatal. George is a monkey and he does things you can't do.

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To begin cover your carb intake. Getting simple green in your engine DOES NOT MAKE YOUR ENGINE A HYBRID.

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Then grab your trusty bottle of simple green. Full strength. Mine was confiscated from the wife's laundry room. Dig my stylin flowers and purple top.

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Now thoroughly douse the engine, taking care not to splash the carb, the alternator, or the battery. Spray heavily in the nooks and crannies around the water pump (the thing the huge front fan ties to) and intake manifold (top of the engine under the carb) After even a couple of seconds it looks alot better!

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I only ended up using half the bottle. In half an hour we'll reapply. Don't forget or you'll not get a very good result.

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So wait 1/2 hour and re-spray it again. (redundant?)

Then go have lunch or play monopoly. You have four hours to kill...

Clarke

February 2nd, 2013, 12:52 AM

I'm glad you clarified that bottle came from your wife's laundry room and not your tool cabinet (not that there's anything wrong with that).

FetchMeAPepsi

February 2nd, 2013, 01:05 AM

Ha ha Clark yes there is a LOT wrong with that!

FetchMeAPepsi

February 2nd, 2013, 01:08 AM

Now it's about 4 hours later. Wait, you didn't wait 4 full hours. Go wait some more. Stop reading...Seriously...

Ok, looks about right to me. Let's move on.

Place the plastic bag over your carburetor (carb). Don't worry, she won't choke. It's just to keep the water from drowning her.

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Then secure it with a coat hanger or in my case this bungee cord.

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And because this task is so easy, have your little helper rearrange all of your newly bought wrenches into a decorative pile on the grass. Then make sure he leaves before putting them back in their proper place. Spend 15 minutes digging them out of the grass and mud and put them back in their holder.

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FetchMeAPepsi

February 2nd, 2013, 01:19 AM

At this point we need to get our hands dirty again. Take your wrenches and remove your battery cables. You don't have to unscrew these bolts all the way. They just need to be loose enough that you can twist the top portion around and squeegle it off of the battery post. Don't beat it with a hammer. That's just stupid.

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Then remove the wires and yank the old crusty thing out like an old tooth. Don't try washing it though. They don't like water. At all.

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Move to the alternator. It has two bolts. If yours is like mine and has been "fixed" you probably have two all-the-way-through bolts so you'll need two 1/2 wrenches to take them off. One for each side. Here I am only showing one side to confuse you.

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We're going to be squirting water all over so don't lay your removed bolts on the fender well like this. They'll end up lost. Put them some place safe and far away.

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BarryGMC

February 2nd, 2013, 03:08 AM

Get a power washer!!!! No less than 13hp and 3500psi. Seriously My power washer cost more than most of my trucks and I use it a lot. Plus its one of the few machines my wife loves. Bonus x2....Barry

FetchMeAPepsi

February 2nd, 2013, 04:24 PM

Barry its funny you said that I got one for christmas! its not 13 hp and 300 psi though those are way too expensive for me. I got four kids! Maybe i can sell one? Ha ha!

Mine was 24oo psi and 5.5 hp honda motor. I ran it for a minute last week and it blows water all the way across my yard. Im hoping when I finish fiddling with the motor it'll put out close to 3000 psi on jet blaster mode. the motor is set to run really slow frmo the factory.

FetchMeAPepsi

February 2nd, 2013, 06:28 PM

The second bolt is underneath the alternator. I tried to get a pic. Hopefully you can find it. Be careful though, once it's just a little loose the alternator will likely fall over whichever way gravity pulls it. Hold it with one hand to be safe. Just loosen this bolt. Don't take it all the way out yet.

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Once the second bolt is loose you can move the alternator and remove the belt. Just slip it off of the alternator, keeping an eye on where it runs on the other two (or three, or four) pulleys. I just unhooked mine and set it down gently.

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Freed of the belt, we can now unplug our alternator. Just mash on the forward portion of the plastic plug and pull it straight out. It's a simple plug like what you'd see on a computer hard disk in the older days.

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Now you can get to the bottom bolt better to remove it. I used a 9/16 wrench that I found in the grass.

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Then take the nut off of the back. Mine is held in place with a long threaded shaft.

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And a piece of wayward pipe?

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FetchMeAPepsi

February 2nd, 2013, 06:29 PM

All that removed, your alternator should now pull free of the brackets, but it still has one wire so just lift it into the battery tray and disconnect the wire. It takes a 3/8 inch wrench that I forgot to mention earlier in our list of supplies. If you don't have one you can come mow my grass. I have lost several.

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Then remove the wire and let it hang. The nut you removed should be placed back on the alternator so it doesn't get lost. Then put the alternator in a safe, dry place.

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FetchMeAPepsi

February 2nd, 2013, 06:30 PM

Ok, now go get the water hose and sprayer and get to spraying. WHOOSH!!!
All of the nooks and greasy crannies!

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Then get the battery tray really good. It looked like cookie monster had eaten dinner in mine. Crust and crumbs everywhere.

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While you're at it, spray the outside black area too.

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And squirt the grasshoppers out of your radiator. Feed them to the cats.

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One more thing. You're bound to notice a little paint coming off. It's likely that this paint was flaky anyway and would fall off by itself. It's not from the simple green, more from the water pressure and lack of oil and grime holding it on anymore. Don't fret. Eventually we'll paint the engine anyway, right? (lofty goals!)

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And you might just get to see little treasures like this that have lived buried in muck for ages.

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or this

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FetchMeAPepsi

February 2nd, 2013, 06:31 PM

Once it's good and clean as you like it you can start putting it back together again. A word of wisdom - it won't be spotless. The engine is 50 years old. If you want to get all of the dirt off you'll need to do some serious scrubbing or just dip it in a vat of cleaner. If you just want to knock some more dirt of of her you can repeat this process since you already have the alternator and battery out.

So to put her back together you just go find your alternator and put it back in the battery tray. Be careful not to bang the pulley side around on things or you can damage the windings and/or brushes inside. Be easy with it.

While it's in the battery tray you can re-attach the little wire on the back.

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Then set the alternator back in it's slot and run the long bolt and whatever stuff the PO put in there as a spacer. Remember that the larger bolt hole goes on the bottom, the smaller on the top.

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Now place the top alternator bolt in but don't tighten it just yet. Just run it in there snug.

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Don't forget the plug in the top.

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Then slip the belt back on, making sure it is still on the other pulleys on the engine too.

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Finally just tighten the belt. To do this you put a prybar (a crowbar in this case) between the engine and the alternator, prying it out until the belt is good and tight. Then you tighten the bolt on top. It's a little tough to do both at once but if you stand on the side of the truck and pull with both hands you should make it perfectly tight and keep it there. If you start the truck and it whines you'll know you didn't get it tight enough.

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That's about it. You just washed your first engine. If you can do it, it's a good idea to let it dry for 24 hours before driving just in case you squirted water into the spark plug holes or something.

Now, don't worry if it didn't blind you with sparkly magical powers when you finished. It's not going to - it's 50 years old. You want a sparkly engine? You gotta scrub for that. Alot. My main goal was to kick the crud off so that it looks better and doesn't color me every time I lean over to fiddle with a spark plug wire.

Lessons Learned:

You can reapply again and do it again.
I want a pressure washer.
Dirt is like an ogre. It has layers.
Don't expect to strip it all off at once. Baby steps.
Scrubbing an engine with paint on it can give you an engine without paint on it.
Don't leave a 5 year old boy and a set of shiny new wrenches alone. Ever.

FetchMeAPepsi

February 3rd, 2013, 01:44 AM

Now we're going to change the temperature sending unit.

This job happened before the engine cleaning above, so don't freak out about the excessive dirt. It's just out of chronological order.

On Cecilia the factory gauge said COLD regardless of what was going on so I figured it was either dead or needed a new sending unit.

My first thing to do was FIND the sending unit. Yeah, I know! Stupid newbie with his lack of knowledge! I should go die in a hole or something, right?

Instead of dying in a hole I looked for wires that go to funny places under the hood. I knew it had to be on the engine somewhere and that lead me to the first obvious place.

This wire right here!

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And that lead me right to this! It's a sending unit! Woohoo!

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Heck, that wasn't so hard at all. Feeling tough and awesome now I grabbed that wire and yanked it off of the top of the sending unit, cleaned it off, and started Cecilia again. No change. Yep, it's bad.

I left the key in the ON position and had my "powder puff mechanic" in the seat ready to yell if wiggling this wire might cause the needle to jump. But something else happened (stop me if you've heard this already...lol)

The oil light went off.

Yep.

I had found a sending unit, just the wrong one. Nice job eh?

Moving on, I then ran down another wire. This one went from the alternator tangle of wire spaghetti to the top of the engine and....Hey! Isn't that the thermostat right beside this wire? Well - bingo! That made more sense than one on the bottom of the engine after I thought about it.

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So I yanked that nasty old wire off and cleaned it up. Still no good. Time to replace it!

I ran down to NAPA and bought what was recommended for my 305 V6. Napa part number ECH TS6469.

I then removed the wire again:

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And removed the old sending unit. Coolant flowed out of it pretty nicely. And be careful, this is a knucklebuster of an area to turn a wrench.

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Then I carefully screwed the new one in, taking care not to cross thread it.

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Then I realized that the new sending unit has a button top....Hmm....

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David R Leifheit

February 3rd, 2013, 03:03 AM

And you might just get to see little treasures like this that have lived buried in muck for ages.

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And with this picture I would like to confirm that your truck did indeed, regardless of the previous owner's assertions, come with a generator.
That is the generator mount. I'd almost guess the alternator pulley isn't perfectly in line with the waterpump and crank pulleys.

Been there, done that. :)

David R Leifheit

February 3rd, 2013, 03:10 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

February 3rd, 2013, 04:45 PM

I'm not that careful with a hose. I'd get everything hosed down.
My method *might* be a little bit more extreme.

Aww no fair pulling the motor out lol. Did you do all that with soap and water? It looks great!
Any scrubbing? Pressure washer?

Im worried about getting water in the cylinders or in a gasket somewhere with high power spraying. I might just be paranoid. If you are doing it and didnt havre any problems i might try it this spring.

David R Leifheit

February 3rd, 2013, 06:10 PM

Aww no fair pulling the motor out lol. Did you do all that with soap and water? It looks great!
Any scrubbing? Pressure washer?

Im worried about getting water in the cylinders or in a gasket somewhere with high power spraying. I might just be paranoid. If you are doing it and didnt havre any problems i might try it this spring.

Just bought a power washer last year, and did that a couple years ago so it was all mostly soap, water, stiff scrub brush. I've tried a few cleaners, and some are good, but nothing beats scrubbing it.

I don't know if you can really tell from the pictures, but the engine is on the stand *and* has a hoist hooked to it. On the stand alone it kind of started "sagging". Of course leaving the bell housing on it means the weight was out further from the plate, so greater lever arm... physics and gravity works.

I actually didn't pull that engine. I bought the engine ( 351E ) took it apart (it was stuck) cleaned the insides of condensation and surface rust, new gaskets, assembled ... cleaned ... painted ... yanked Chev 350 out of the truck and put the 351 in. Ran it too hard for break-in, head gaskets didn't seat right so it leaks water around the head, water got in the oil and into the crank bearings and it is stuck again. :(
But the truck is a '63 and I acquired a running '63 with the plaid covers that had already been converted to the Holley and electronic distributor. So one day soon... the 351E will be coming back out (and up for sale) and the 305 is going in. One day. Soon. Maybe. <sigh>

BarryGMC

February 3rd, 2013, 08:30 PM

I powerwash old stuff all of the time. I use hot water and let er rip. I only seal the distributor and carb. BC

FetchMeAPepsi

February 4th, 2013, 03:59 AM

Just bought a power washer last year, and did that a couple years ago so it was all mostly soap, water, stiff scrub brush. I've tried a few cleaners, and some are good, but nothing beats scrubbing it.

I don't know if you can really tell from the pictures, but the engine is on the stand *and* has a hoist hooked to it. On the stand alone it kind of started "sagging". Of course leaving the bell housing on it means the weight was out further from the plate, so greater lever arm... physics and gravity works.

I actually didn't pull that engine. I bought the engine ( 351E ) took it apart (it was stuck) cleaned the insides of condensation and surface rust, new gaskets, assembled ... cleaned ... painted ... yanked Chev 350 out of the truck and put the 351 in. Ran it too hard for break-in, head gaskets didn't seat right so it leaks water around the head, water got in the oil and into the crank bearings and it is stuck again. :(
But the truck is a '63 and I acquired a running '63 with the plaid covers that had already been converted to the Holley and electronic distributor. So one day soon... the 351E will be coming back out (and up for sale) and the 305 is going in. One day. Soon. Maybe. <sigh>

I cant take my motor out right now. I dont have a stand or puller and I'm stove up with a recovering hip, but I'm getting there.
I'll do it eventually. I'm buying tools as I go.
She sure does look pretty painted though. Nice job!!

I powerwash old stuff all of the time. I use hot water and let er rip. I only seal the distributor and carb. BC

Maybe I'll give it a shot this spring. I want to eventually do the paint etc. like Davids but that's for another summer.

FetchMeAPepsi

February 4th, 2013, 03:59 AM

To address the new button top problem we'll just make a new fitting using our trusty bag o' connectors.

Strip the wire and cut off the old connector, like here:

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Then grab one of your spoon looking connectors that have curled sides ...

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And one of these pokey dikes things if you have one.

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The same can be done with a pair of coat hanger wires if you dont. Or a fork. As a Scotsman I never see any need to spend money. It puts my kilt in a bunch.

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Poke them in the connector where the curls are like this and pry them open slowly, just a little, until they fit the top of your button.

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Then crimp it back on the wire. Squish Squish.

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Then just place it on your new sending unit. All done!

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Just start your engine. See if it works!

As for me, nothing ever works like it should so.....GREAT CAESAR'S GHOST!!!!!
SHE'S GONNA BLOW!!!

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Of course that's not my gauge. I panicked too much to take a pic.

I shut her down and went into troubleshooting mode. Cool the engine, that takes what? Think McGuyver!
Water, oil, air. Ok, let's verify...

Check the water - I opened the cap and no boiling. Nothing funny.

I grabbed the infrared thermo gun that I bought because it was cool for AC troubleshooting...Toys rule :D

175 degrees. Hmm, what the heck? That's not hot at all.

Then I hit the internet and started searching.
Lo and behold, sending units have changed quite a bit since 1962. Who'da thunk it?

They now offer less resistance at lower temps than old gauges are used to seeing. The difference is about 32 ohms.

To compensate you need to add a resistor to the wire to keep them honest so that's what I did next. Oh, and just try finding a 32 ohm resistor at any retail store. You wont.

So I bought a pack of 33 ohm resistors from Rat Shack (radio shack) for 1.19. The guy there looked like he hated life and his job. He threw my receipt in the trash instead of handing it to me. :(

What's with lousy customer service anymore? No wonder the place was deserted.

Anyway, I got my resistors home and started photographing again.

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That's when I realized it said "47 Ohm" instead of 33. Someone had mixed up the resistor bin and I had looked at the label, not at the package. Dummy.

So I ran it back and tried to swap it out. Mr Personality was like, "You wanna what? Oh.....(long pause)...Do you have a receipt?"

"You threw it away".

"Oh, I did? (long pause again) Um.....I guess it's in here then."

He glanced toward the trash can.

As Mr Friendly dug through his trash I went to get the right package and rearrange all of the resistors back to their proper cubby slots because I didn't want someone else having the same problem.

Anyway (deep breath) back at the counter he found a receipt for a resistor. It's for a 100 ohm. Different date. "Uhkay here it is." I pointed out that it wasn't the right one, but he said it didn't matter. He just needed a reciept. I was done with the whole thing so I just let it go. Punk kids today. Ugh.

When I'm elected Dictator there will be a law against idocy....but I digress.

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Out the door I hobbled with my correct resistor in tow.

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I snipped the wire in two at a point that it was bare anyway from years of under-hood abuse.

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Then I attached a connector to it. Not pretty but we're going for drivability first, then pretty when we do a complete re-wire.

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Crimp the resistor on:

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Put on another connector for the other side

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Tie it to the existing wire. Then just plug it back on to the temp sending unit and we're off!

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And after starting her up she needed some alone time to warm up and I needed some fuel. I went inside to make myself a very tasty egg and bacon burrito.

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This is how she looked when I returned:

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SUCCESS!!!!!
And the temp was confirmed by the infrared reading 160 on the head. Nice!

I went back and painted it with liquid electrical tape just to be safe until I do a re-wire.

Lessons Learned:

My wires are old and corroded. This will need addressing next spring or so.
Reproduction parts aren't as good as original.
Look at what you're buying, even when you're in a hurry.
Kids that hate their jobs should find new jobs. :angry:
Bacon and egg burritos with guacamole are delicious on a cold day.:laughGMC:

BarryGMC

February 4th, 2013, 05:29 AM

I got a box O sensors in the shop. Been to that rodeo before. The Jimmys are the worst for this. OLd stock is best. Collect it while you can. Barry.

FetchMeAPepsi

February 5th, 2013, 12:50 AM

Thats what I should do but I havent seen any sensors come up on ebay. Barry you had good forsight.

BarryGMC

February 5th, 2013, 02:09 AM

Hit the wreaking yards And any place with old medium trucks. Also watch craigslist. Barry

6066gmcguy

February 6th, 2013, 02:56 PM

Nice Work eh.

FetchMeAPepsi

February 6th, 2013, 04:19 PM

Hit the wreaking yards And any place with old medium trucks. Also watch craigslist. Barry

Once I'm walking safely that's on my list. i heard we have a good one nearby in OKC. Theres a big one north of Dallas that i want to hit too next time I visit the land of the free (texas).

Nice Work eh.

thanks jolly. im proud of her even if she doesnt look like much. I mean 500 bux and 4wd and i got it running! how many new cars can you let sit for years then spend 15 bucks to get them roadworthy right?

(to everyone reading)
the build stopped after the sensor for a few months due to the hip surgery. im 30cough years old and blew a hip out. go figure. the kids are calling me grandpa lol.

This week though i got out and started the old girl again to blow the condensation out of her (or maybe just to hear her run again lol) and that got me started to tinkering. I'm down to using 1 crutch so I can carry stuff again.

I replaced that broken window on the passenger side and then I grabbed my old oilbath air cleaner and got to work on it. I'll post the how-i-did-it and some pictures soon. Its just a simple paintover job.

THanks for all the encouraging words everyone. Im really enjoying bringing her back to life.

George Bongert

February 7th, 2013, 03:07 AM

Hello Fetch Me A Pepsi!

Very useful information for sure, and by the way, you hit a nerve here. Seems customer service today stinks (depends on where you go though, and who you deal with) and one of my all time favorite pet peeves, people NOT putting things back WHERE THEY BELONG! It pays to look at the package before you go to the checkout counter, to make sure you got what you came for. As to the young man who threw away your receipt---if he worked for me, he'd be in the unemployment line! That type of customer service is disgraceful to say the least!

Cayoterun

February 7th, 2013, 11:53 PM

Pepsi:

I'll get them there one way or another. Delete them from your build when you look at them if you want to.

FetchMeAPepsi

February 8th, 2013, 03:50 PM

Pepsi:

I'll get them there one way or another. Delete them from your build when you look at them if you want to.

I cant delete your stuff lol but that looks AWESOME! Itll be a good learning experience too since i havent torn into the door innards before. i cant wait!

i do wish i could see that v12 46 though. You should post some pix of that baby

Cayoterun

February 9th, 2013, 12:07 AM

Pepsi:

Here's the links for both V-12 trucks. The '46 Chevy may make it down to the meet June, 15th. No firm plans yet.
Door innards are pretty straight forward, disassemble, lay in a row, stuff them in the other door same order, last out, first back in.
Our plans are still on to see you next weekend.

Forgot to mention on the door. I can find no rust through any where. It came off a grain truck, so could have spent lots of it's life in a barn waiting from one harvest to next.

The meet is really shaping up, and will be an enjoyable weekend for all, I'm sure.

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FetchMeAPepsi

February 9th, 2013, 01:52 AM

yeah the meet should be cool (or hot lol it will be june!) but I cant make it. thats fathers day weekend. I told coop that but he's set on that weekend. I think someone has his ear.

Oh well, maybe ill make the next one.

They're calling for arctic air next weekend. Ask the ladies if they'd like a mug of creamy hot chocolate instead :D

6066gmcguy

February 10th, 2013, 06:27 PM

FetchMeAPepsi

February 11th, 2013, 11:09 PM

Cayoterun you should copy those builds over to thos forum, I'm betting evey one would like to see them.

FetchMeAPepsi is a starnge Member Name, must be what you say to your helpers on those Hot summer days.

Yeah coyote! you just have to do what I did, hit reply on your posts over there and it copies right over.

Fetchmeapepsi is what I picked because i stink at picking forum names and I only drink pepsi's. Not water, not coke, and only occasionally a cup of coffee or a diet DP if the place doesn't have pepsi. Prolly rotting my kidneys but its been this way for about 10 years now with no problems.

watch me fall over dead tomorrow lol.

FetchMeAPepsi

April 1st, 2013, 04:55 AM

Today was the first really pretty weekend day we've had in a while. On the spur of the moment after raking the kids' sandbox we pulled off the air cleaner on Cecilia and ran a wire wheel over it to remove all the old paint and rust.

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It worked great, but took three full batteries in the cordless drill. Afterward we sprayed it with primer.
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Then an hour later it was on with the black paint.
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Here's the primer I used:
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It turned out pretty decent except for the bugs flying into the paint when we started. I guess this stuff is like candy to them. I picked several off with sticks but we were able to rebuild the splotches out to look smooth.

Vernski

April 1st, 2013, 06:55 AM

Have any of you seen a seat like this? This is the first one I've seen. The orig owner said it was all stock but I've never seen one in an ad or a build or anything.

That's an after market seat cover, It could be a dealer item though certainly not from the factory. My Dad bought a seat cover from JC Pennys that looked similar many years ago only it was beige & white. Nice to see you have helpers there enjoy...Vernski:D

FetchMeAPepsi

April 14th, 2013, 02:50 PM

That's an after market seat cover, It could be a dealer item though certainly not from the factory. My Dad bought a seat cover from JC Pennys that looked similar many years ago only it was beige & white. Nice to see you have helpers there enjoy...Vernski:D

Aha! I thought it might be an aftermarket seat! Thanks Vernski. Its been on forever. it has rust spots all along the clips in the back. I'll replace it one day with a factory lookalike. Probably vinyl again to keep it as a workable truck.

FetchMeAPepsi

April 15th, 2013, 08:36 PM

This Saturday was great outside. I've been working on the radio indoors. I'll post a full rebuild of that once its finished. Right now it looks like this:

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Scary huh? This is my first radio teardown and repair so Google and I have been working pretty hard at learning what the heck I'm doing. I hope it doesnt blow up and take out a city block lol. If it works and any of you want to rebuild your original AM radios back to working condition it'll make for a good step by step guide. I only listen to Am anyway so its perfect for this news junkie.

So back to Saturday. We had a storm blow through and it knocked a bunch of our limbs off of our trees. Cecilia got loaded up and carried a couple of loads to the dump for us. She's a workhorse for sure. And it's great not worrying that she'll get all dinged up with a few sticks like newer trucks. Thanks heavy gauge sheet metal!

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After that I wanted to make another attempt to get the primer off of her. Someone I talked to suggested Mineral Spirits so I bought a can of this and pulled out my pressure washer again. The lid on these is a safety lid that YOU CANT OPEN. The plastic is just cheap and spins over the metal cap. I took a screwdriver and pried it off to get it open. It closed right up afterward like nothing ever happened. The plastic part playing in my trash can with other worthless junk.

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The verdict on this stuff is a very unhappy two thumbs down. It didn't do anything at all. I rubbed with steel wool and that worked OK, but it did the same without this stuff. i packed it all back up and ordered this stuff ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? )after hearing about it's spray-paint removal power. Leave it on a few seconds, they said, and poof! You have old paint restored.

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I'll let you guys know how it worked when it comes in on tuesday. That was it for paint removal. Highly anticlimactic.

So I grabbed my newly de-toothed Powder Puff mechanic...

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...and we sanded off the air cleaner again cuz of the paint getting rough spots from the last outdoor painting. Thanks to member WDShaffer for the advice on the sanding. I tied her to 600 grit and let her start scrubbing. THe pics were indoors so they turned out too dark, but here's the end result. Smooth, shiny, and we're 100% happy.

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Now we just need to do something about that peeling and abused engine.:bananadance:

GMC Guy

April 15th, 2013, 11:08 PM

I'm in need of a volume rheostat for my radio. It's either no volume or too much with nothing in between.

On the tree limb front, this just goes to show it can happen anywhere. This limb from my olive tree landed on my truck Monday, April 8th after some high winds overnight. Fortunately, there was no real damage to the truck. The tree has since gotten a good haircut!

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FetchMeAPepsi

April 18th, 2013, 05:43 PM

Arthur, it's great having a truck with more than 1/99th of an inch of sheet metal around it, isn't it? I really dig that I can lean against the fender and it doesn't feel like a beer can. And i know a guy with an old radio for $30.00. If you wanna snag the rheostat out of it I'll ship it for $7.00 fedex. If he still has it. These old radios are getting tough to find.

This week I got a *FREE*, yes you read that right *FREE* air compressor. I hate the little ball blower i have now. Its only a 2 gallon walmart special. It wont even air up a car tire without recharging it three times. Worthless.

The new compressor is a 20 gallon Ironhorse upright model that fits perfectly in the empty space by my rakes and other longhandles. Heres a pic of it new.

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Mine looks like this now

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I took it apart because i wanted to see if it was all OK inside and it was leaking through a few of the couplings. i found out that not one, not two, not three....but all four feet on the motor are broken off. The only thing holding the motor to the tank is the connection pipe itself. I called around and no one seems to have an old casing i can use so i ordered a couple of bakers silicone bake sheets as dampeners to sit the motor on. Then i'll strap it down to keep it stationary. Recycling at its best!

I hope to use a low airflow hvlp paint gun with it to paint cecilia if I cant do a patina build. Heres the style i had in mind. To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? 

Hers a pic of it.
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WDShaffer

April 22nd, 2013, 02:56 PM

HVLP means high volume low pressure, and they mean it. If you are painting single panels or a few at a time, your compressor will keep up without a problem. The secret to HVLP working very well is an air pressure regulator (not a"cheater valve") on the supply hose set to the gun's specified working pressure. I repainted my brother's stock car twice before I figured out the rental booth was using a separate compressor for the HVLP supply line. After that, I was laying down polyurethane in smooth sheets.

Gravity feed guns like that are easy to clean, too. However, the 1 quart pot is about the limit for painting a single coat on a sedan or a truck cab without the bed.

If it is inexpensive, consider a second gun for primer, so you can set up the fluid jet and pattern for the thicker material. I use a Harbor Freight source gun for primer, and a very nice composite DeVilbiss for paint. But paint is my bag, and I have had great results with low-cost tools. Like anything, you need to learn the techniques first then adapt to the tools at hand.

FetchMeAPepsi

April 27th, 2013, 01:47 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

April 27th, 2013, 02:35 AM

My compressor works great now, but it didn't before. All four legs were broken off the motor. So I called around to get some info and maybe buy a motor casing from the manufacturer. They said no way. I called a repair shop. They said Nope.
I called another repair shop. They said they'd check to see if they had a busted motor in. They did. It didn't have motor mounts :(

So I fixed it myself the only way I know how - Cheap!

I first decided I wanted something to dampen the noise. I needed something both flexible and heat resistant so I chose one of those blue cheap silicone baking mats. Folded in half it fit perfectly.

Here's the Powder Puff mechanic sliding it under while I lift the motor:

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Then I tied it down by running two bits of a coathanger through the outside screw holes and over the motor.

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Then it was time to put some compressor oil in it. I chose Porter Cable brand.

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Finally I plugged 'er in and plugged all the leaks, put plumbers tape on the fittings, and she ran great. She holds air! Now time to spend a small fortune on air gadgets.....

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FetchMeAPepsi

April 30th, 2013, 04:34 AM

Well this weekend was a great one. I got my Krud Cutter bottle in and sprayed it on the fenders to remove that old yucky rattle can primer.

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I ran out and sprayed it all over the fender. According to online accounts I only had to spray it on, wait a few seconds and then spray off. Volia! Old paint restored.
Well not exactly...I sprayed it on, scrubbed it off. Did it again and let it sit longer. What could be wrong? Elbow grease! That's got to be it. I threw some kids at it. First one kidpower tied to a scotch brite...

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Then I tried two kidpower tied to sponges.

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Still nothing to speak of. Ok, it came off a little, but it was a LOT of scrubbing and hard work. The kids had fun, but dear ol' dad was wearing down. The Krud Kutter was a big fat fail. We waited anywhere from 30 seconds to a full hour between scrubbings and it still didn't come off well.

In a fit of frustration I grabbed a bottle of degreaser and sprayed it on, waited 1/2 hour, and took a power washer to it. It's funny how things fall together in your darkest hour, isn't it? I sprayed it and WHAMMO! The stuff just fell off like I had a selective sand blaster running over it! I almost peed. Really, two drops of pee came out. I was so excited.

I immediately started spraying little spots and running a timer to get the numbers down. This stuff didn't seem to hurt the original paint at all. I finally hit on a time that worked well enough for us. Spray it on, wait 30 mins, spray another coat on to re-wet it, then hose it off with a power washer. It's like freaking magic.

It was so much fun the oldest daughter came out of the house to run the washer on it.

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That lasted all of 10 minutes because as you know power washers don't have music plugins or pump out brownies at 350 degrees. They just shoot water and that gets old to a teenage girl after a while even if Daddy is jumping around behind her like a lunatic that just found a gold tooth.

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I made a video of it too to show just how easy it fell off but I can't seem to figure out how to upload it. I hate videos anyway. So here's a pic. Nom nom nom. See how clean the power washed area is? And this is a little 5.5 horse 2400 psi 2.4 gpm washer.

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I should have a blue truck in a couple of weeks at this rate. Or at least I'll have a better idea of what Cecilia's bones look like if I have to do a full repaint. I am one happy camper!

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 19th, 2013, 12:26 AM

Today was a long, loong day. I took Cecilia to the dump and dumped another load of junk. That was good though because I can't toodle around in her when she's loaded with crap. I have missed her!

After that I just ran her a bit and slowed her timing to 2.5 BTDC. She's been backfiring through the carb on acceleration so I needed to find a fix. She's running alot better, but now the battery is crapping out big time. It won't charge past 75% and it won't turn her over more than 1/2 second. I'm running her off of a jump box for now.

I also put in a new radio antenna. Now my radio works!

Finally I was pretty worn down but I sprayed her down with paint remover again and power washed another layer of primer off of her. That's 3 hours of fun. I found out my GMC letters on the back weren't white nor blue like the rest of her, they're kind of a shiny silver color. Really pretty!

Then I sat down with the kids, got bored and started hammering out dents in her fenders while I sat. Lazy bodywork FTW.

I can't wait until I can bend over with this hip again so I can work under her. Even if I leave the outside of her patina'ed and blue I want to open all of her underneath parts and give them a good cleaning, priming, and spraying with bedliner.

I didn't take any pictures this time because I left my phone inside. I'm a loser. :( So here's a pic of someone else's truck to make up for it.

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 23rd, 2013, 05:43 PM

Well the kids are out of school now and I'm itching to do some work on my truck with them. Weather wont cooperate though. Its been raining cats and dogs.

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I played with my Eastwood hammers some, banging on my rear fenders. You can buy a set here for $50.00 ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ). I paid 80 but they're on sale right now. Go figure! :lolflag:
The hammers work GREAT! The dollies are very heavy so they hold the metal still while you're pounding on it so you don't rip it all to shreds. And the fiberglass handles don't ring your bell every time you land a solid whack.

I kinda want to pull the rear bumper off this weekend (weather permitting) and get it cleaned and sanded.

So I've been sitting here researching paints, primers, and polyfills. It's making my head swim. And I've been collecting parts and pieces.

I have just about decided to paint her instead of going with the patina, but I change my mind every day or so on that. My Powder Puff loves the patina look and so do I. It's more authentic to us. Paint is stupid expensive too at $400 a gallon or so. That'll make your butt pucker. And that's not including the parts associated with it too. So yeah, Patinas are great, but on the other hand Cecilia was abused alot growing up and she might not be able to walk out in public without some paint on her face.

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So back to my parts blitz. I just acquired a compressor and thought I'd use a particular type of low volume paint gun with it but I changed my mind. I have read of others that did well with HVLP guns on similar compressors just taking it easy and not getting in too big of a hurry. I'll be painting one panel at a time if I paint so I think I'll be OK. Worst case I have to buy a big compressor. May as well open a shop after that huh? :yeeuh:

Here's the list:
A creeper that folds up into a chair for my bad hip. I needed a rolling chair anyway. 2 in one! $80.00
An RPM gauge $15.00
A vacuum gauge $14.00
A radiator overflow hose. I want to put a coolant tank in eventually. $5.00
A clay bar for paint removal in tough to spray areas $8.00
A wire brush cup $10.00
A gallon of Slick Sand $97.00 Ouch
An inline water and oil filter for my compressor $5.00
A new HVLP primer gun $40.00

I'm I'll be getting my DP90 primer and extras ordered this week some time then it's learning time! I plan to make a lot of mistakes but hey, in the end I'll have a fat head full of knowledge right?

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I looked around for some cheaper primer to practice with but it seems like there's only a few dollars difference in all of the epoxy primers. Disappointing. It's a wonder that anyone ever gets into body work anymore with these prices. You'd have to charge a fortune for any bit of work just to break even!

FetchMeAPepsi

May 25th, 2013, 04:23 AM

The kids are out of school now and it's great. Some people get tired of their kids but I'm not one of those. I really dig spending time with them. :superhug:
Today the eldest wanted to have time with the youngest (Baby syndrome? She better not drag home some boy!) and my boy was tied up with the Nintendo Wii. That left the Powder Puff and I on our own. I had work I needed to do but she didn't have anything really going on. What's a good daddy to do?
Flake off and pull the old truck out for some wrench turning of course!

I started Cecilia up - Side note here, she has had a kind of cough'y, hammery sound lately in her passenger side of the ol' 305 V6 that was kinda scaring me. I thought her oil might be low but it checked out fine. I haven't changed it her oil because I can't get under her, but she has a sufficient amount that she shouldn't be having trouble. Anyway, I took a shot and gave her a dose of this stuff ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ) and let her run for about 10 minutes. The cough disappeared. PP (The Powder Puff Mechanic) started calling the stuff Cough Medicine for Cecilia. It's about the size of a bottle of Nyquil so I think it fits.

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Ok, back on track, I started her up and pulled her into the front yard this time. I know, brave, huh? All the neighbors are reasonably friendly so I think they'd tell me if I was disturbing them. I try to not be loud. We tossed the door that CoyoteRun gave us in the back and thought that might make a good project for today. We figured it'd take a couple of hours or so.

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It took five. :ahhhh:

Tools you will need:
1 Large Philips Head Screwdriver
1 Regular Philips Head Screwdriver
1 Pair Needle Nose Pliers
1 Can PB Blaster
1 9/16 wrench

We started by removing the three screws that hold the mirror on. The new door had some funky upper panel mirrors so I'll have to drill new holes. Later. I had problems with one screw that was apparently stripped out. Had to put my fingernail under it and pull up while I turned the screwdriver. It's a good way trim your fingernails if you don't have clippers. It wore mine down into the quick.

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There's a rubber gasket under the mirror so be careful of that. Mine had marks under it too where the previous owner tried to line up the mirror.

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Now shoot some PB Blaster on the door side of the hinge bolts. There's 6 bolts in there. Don't forget any of them. Then tap them with a hammer a couple of times just enough to ring their bell a bit and set up vibration.

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Remove the cotter pin here and it'll let you open the door more. I didn't do this until afterward then was kicking myself because I was in such a tight area the whole time.

cotter key and pin:
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Then take your 9/16 wrench and get ta' screwin' around. I took out the two over/under bolts out from each hinge, leaving one single bolt in each hinge for support. You don't want to run all of the bolts out at once or you'll wind up walking funny when the door falls off and jumps in your lap.

Now put a jack under the door for support. They're pretty heavy but not unmanageable.

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While your helper is busy jacking up the jack (and letting it down, jacking it up again, sitting on it, putting rocks on it, etc...) you can keep your sanity by taking out the panel screws. There's 12 of them IIRC (If I Remember Correctly) and you'll use your big screwdriver on them.

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Now grab your flathead screwdriver and poke it in the back of the handle like this to unscrew this screw a bit. It's just a pressure screw so run it out about five turns and it should be fine. You don't need to (or want to) run it all the way out and lose it.

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Same with the other handle

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Then gently lift the panel off and put it in a safe place where you won't trip over it or kick it because you busted your thumb with a hammer.

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Then take the side screws out to release the vent window. There are four screws, longest two on the side, shorties on the top.

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Then remove these two large screws about midway down the door. They're one on top of the other. Don't remove any other screws:

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Then push down on the vent window, GENTLY. It could shatter and cut you to ribbons! Once it's down about a half inch pull it to the right gently, taking care to not tear up the corrogated window channel on the top of the window.

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Then you can pull it outside the window area like this but it's not cleared at the base yet, one more twist to pay attention to...

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Now twist the window so that it faces you like an axe falling on your head. This is because there's a little bracket on the bottom of it that won't let it come out without the twist.

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Then just pull it up and out.

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 25th, 2013, 04:52 AM

Now inside the panel viewing port here you'll see two screws. Remove ONLY the one pictured but don't try to pull it out. It stays in the channel nicely because it has a big head like me.

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Ok, this part is another dangerous part. It's better with two people but I never have two grown people around. If you're like me and have no friends take your screwdriver and gently break loose the screw. Don't unscrew it!

Then grab the window like you see here. While you're unscrewing the screw, hold the window up so it doesn't fall when the screw backs out. Get comfy and get a good grip. After the screw backs out just work the window glass right out of the top.

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At this point your little helper probably has gotten tired of the jack and has wandered off after butterflies or ladybugs. If she left your jack in the right position (see pic) then you can now safely remove the final bolt from the lower hinge using your 9/16 wrench.

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With the bottom bolt removed you only have the top bolt and the jack holding up the door. Now is a good time to let your helper run the bolt out while you stand up and hold the door to keep them from getting crushed. That's bad parenting, crushing your children. Plus the government frowns on it if you don't have a permit.

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After it comes off you're left with 1960's air conditioning.

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Transferring all of the hardware and parts to the new door was pretty straightforward. The glass was broken so my fingers naturally ran all over it hoping to get cut. Only my thumb succeeded. :D

I did have a problem with the window channel screw though. It wouldn't come out. I rounded it out with my big screwdriver so I used a skinny flathead screwdriver and it busted right off in my hand. See the piece in the screw still? Stupid Stanley tools.

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And when I went to put the bolts back in I forgot to mention that the two over/under bolts are washerless. Only the one on the outside of the hinge by itself has a washer. At least on mine that's how it was.

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And here's where I greased up all of the links and connections. I really hate that corrugated window channel stuff. It bites me and it's ugly.

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Anyway, we buttoned her back up and got her hung by the time the wife got home and called us in for dinner. Perfect timing! I still need to adjust it a bit but it's in there and it shuts. I'm happy. I still need to replace the rocker panel but that's a job for another day.

Special thanks to CoyoteRun, his lovely wife and daughter, and his oversized generous heart for the door. :yourock:

Here's a before:

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And an after:

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 25th, 2013, 05:08 AM

I got a friendly verbal spanking over PMs for being lazy with the antenna build. Sorry about that :)

I bought my antenna from this guy on Ebay ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ). It's a direct fit replacement for my old one except my old one telescoped manually (you push it down or pull it up) and this is a whip style antenna.

Hope that helps anyone looking for a replacement. I'll try to remember to mention more details from here on out.

Cayoterun

May 26th, 2013, 02:29 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

May 26th, 2013, 12:32 PM

Lookin' good, Pepsi! Much better there, than after coming out of a crusher.

Sorry about the big mirror holes, but the old door has ridden to a grain elevator many times on the grain truck it came off of.

Recycling at it's finest!!!!

How is that rocker panel attached? Is it bolted on, or pretty easy to get off without damage? Let me know, and I'll check an old cab I have. I'll have to roll this cab over with the tractor to see this one.
Let me know.

Thanks Coyote! I really like how it looks. I believe the rockers are spot welded on. I've seen rebuild threads where other people have cut them out with a reciprocating saw so that was going to be my plan.

turbobill

May 26th, 2013, 12:44 PM

How is that rocker panel attached? Is it bolted on, or pretty easy to get off without damage? Let me know, and I'll check an old cab I have. I'll have to roll this cab over with the tractor to see this one.
Let me know.

The rocker panel is spot welded to the truck. To remove a good one, or replace one properly will require door and fender removal. It is much easier to buy a replacement panel than fool with one still attached to a parts truck.

Cayoterun

May 26th, 2013, 04:37 PM

Thanks.
Another example of a great site, and helpful people.

FetchMeAPepsi

May 27th, 2013, 04:19 AM

The rocker panel is spot welded to the truck. To remove a good one, or replace one properly will require door and fender removal. It is much easier to buy a replacement panel than fool with one still attached to a parts truck.

Yep, Thanks turbobill! I confirmed it today when I took Cecilia out and adjusted the door. I had to bang the rocker panel down with some serious UMPH :whipit:
The new door was rubbing at the bottom and the Powder Puff couldn't open it by herself.

It's on and rolling like a pro now!

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I also pulled my plugs out and re-checked their gapping. Then I gapped them 0.05 over spec to get more fire in the cylinder. She didn't seem to mind that at all. She was more responsive on the throttle like a Godzilla on Tokyo.

So after that little break (sit down work) I thought I'd try to chase down the GEN light problem. It's staying on now. I had my alternator checked and the guys at Autozone said it was fine. I re-hooked it back up and it drove OK, but it's not really charging the battery.

I put a voltmeter on it and here's what it said.

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I checked it at the back of the alternator too (red alt line, neg battery line)

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The same, 12.60 v. It should have been 13.8 or more. :(

I had burger duty so I had to button it up after that. Guess I'll be picking up an alternator.

Happy Memorial weekend to everyone, and thanks to those that served or have family serving. Without you we wouldn't have the freedoms we take for granted every day.

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 27th, 2013, 04:26 AM

Here's a little tip for adjusting your doors. After you get your hinge on the truck, tighten just one of the over/under bolts on each hinge until it's barely snug. Then shut the door. Open it gently and tighten it a little more. Shut it again. Repeat until you get the bolt all the way in. You should then be able to tighten the remaining bolts and have it stay lined up.

Anyway, that's what worked for me. I did start it by jacking it up on a wooden block so it didn't fall over, twist, and konk me on the head.

FetchMeAPepsi

May 29th, 2013, 05:34 AM

I pulled off my alternator today and checked it's model number. It doesn't have one. All it says is "Made in the USA". :pullinghairout:

I looked on Jolly's site and it says Delco 12SI was a popular model to put on the 305V6 so I searched out the internals of the 12SI. It didn't match. So I took it apart and looked at the innards. The only number I could find was on the rectifier. I didn't know what a rectifier was when I started, but research showed it to be this

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That rectifier only fits in a handful of alternators. The one that looked most like mine was a 120 amp 17SI. So we'll be working off of the assumption that this is a 17SI with a double pulley.

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I grabbed another junky old towel. This time a white one with threadbare spots and strings coming out of the ends. I couldn't use the green towel. This alternator is racist.

So first I flipped it over. There are four screw/bolt fasteners on this side. You can get them off with a nut driver....

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With an assistant because they're really in there...

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Now that the four screws are out, take a look at the alternator back. You need to remember the plug's position in relation to the top screw hole so you can reassemble it exactly as it was. YOURS MIGHT NOT LOOK LIKE MINE.

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With the screw/bolty things out you can now very gently pull the back off of the alternator. Like cracking an egg!

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When you take them apart you'll hear a SPROING! sound as the brushes pop free from their guides. Don't worry. They're tethered by a wire.

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Now reach in with your nut driver and release these three nuts that tie the wires wound around the outside to the innards.

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Then you can free up the winding part. It probably won't come out easy, you'll have to rock it back and forth a bit but be careful! You don't want to mess it up.

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 29th, 2013, 05:38 AM

Ok thats done. What a mess. Dig down inside the shell more now and unscrew the three bolts holding the regulator on.

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It just pops right out once it's loose. Now you can push the "brushes" back in and out again in their slots with the springs. Yeah, you know you wanna. Now do it and say to yourself "Sproing!". Go ahead and get that out of your system.

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Now get your air hose or can of compressed air and blow the dirt out of your system a little.

FetchMeAPepsi

May 31st, 2013, 11:54 PM

I forgot to mention "Tools you will need".

You'll need:

7/16 Nut driver
11/32 Nut driver
5/16 Nut driver
1/4 Nut driver
Flathead screwdriver for prying and banging
Hammer
A rebuild kit from Ebay or wherever
A toothpick or paperclip if your kit doesn't include something similar

(Jeannie if you notice this would you move it to my first post on pulling the alternator? I can't edit it anymore)

Now moving forward you'll need to remove the rectifier. It has three bolts on it and one nut. It also has a little black boxy thing shown here on it. Don't lose that, you won't get a new one in your kit if it's like mine!

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After removing the three bolts you'll remove the one nut. It is the other side of the terminal you connect to a wire in your truck. It might fall out of the back when you take it off. If it does you'll probably never see it again.

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Now for the bearings. My kit came with bearings for both the front and the back. I read online about people just popping them out with a screwdriver easy peasy.

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Mine didn't. I ended up digging all of the little bearings and an unbelievable amount of grease out of it, ripping it to shreds. That left the case the bearings were in. At the time I didn't know you could bang on the back of it with a punch and just push it on through. You should do that instead of what I did. Or you can take it to a mechanic and he can use a press to push the bearing and sleeve out.
If you're hardheaded like me you can probably get it out yourself. But it's not easy.

In learning how to handle this I hit it with a hammer, banged on it with punches, pried on it with stuff, and generally buggared it up really well.

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I spent 2 hours banging on this thing trying to get it out. :pullinghairout::pullinghairout::pullinghairout:
I questioned whether or not it COULD come out. If I had been a swearing man I would have called it and it's creators everything I could think of. Instead I just said, "Dang it!" alot and made frowny faces. Finally I grabbed a screwdriver and placed it on the very tiny seam of the sleeve and the housing. It's VERY tiny.

I got lucky and the screwdriver caught.:ahhhh:

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I carried on and banged it straight through.

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It popped this thing out on my toes.

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SUCCESS!!!!!!

Ok get your rebuild kit. Mine came in looking like this from Ebay.

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Unpacked:

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Grab your bearings for the back and get 'em snugged up.

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Now bang 'em in very gently until you get it flush with the housing. Don't get it crooked or you'll be buying a new set.

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Now put this blurry little bolt in. Mine came in my kit so I got to use a brand new one. New stuff makes me happy.

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Now drop in your new rectal fire (ha ha ha).

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Then put your bolts in the rectifier. Don't forget that little black boxy thing!

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Now drop in your regulator (the white thing on the bottom of the pic).

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If you'll notice in the above pic I damaged the center fin on the housing in front of the rectifier. This was done when I was trying everything in my arsenal against that stupid bearing. Be careful where you pry...

Get your brushes now. Mine were missing until I looked in the holes. Duh. I dug them out and put the springs in the slots. Then I put it on top of the regulator.

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Put your three prong thingy on after that (metal part with black box in the middle, it bolts to the three prongs on the rectifier).

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Put this little caterpillar looking thing on last. My kit didn't come with a new one so I hope it's working.

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Now poke your paperclip, toothpick, or metal thingy through the back to hold the brushes in.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 1st, 2013, 08:53 PM

Flip it back over and hold the brushes in against the springs so you can poke the toothpick-y thing through the holes and keep them locked inside.

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Now grab your big wire wrappy part and gently put it back on. It looks like a bunch of copper spaghetti that someone dropped in a blender. It might have holes that go by each screw port to help you see which side goes where. Also there's those three wires. They make good markers too. :lolflag:

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Tighten down these three nuts. One thing I can't abide is a fat yellow chicken. To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? )

And loose nuts.

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Settle the top portion back down into it's new bearing home taking care to put the upper bolt hole in the right location compared to the two prong plug outlet.

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Run the bolts in

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Then remove the toothpick thingy from the back to set the brushes free and give it a spin to see if it spins! If you did it all right it should spin pretty freely.

Mine didn't. Like most everything I do I had to do it twice.

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I tried to remove the front nut to get the front bearing replaced and had an awful time so I didn't replace it. You should if you can. When I tried I ended up marring the spinny teeth things as you can see above. It caught on the magnets inside the spaghetti thing. That was bad. I ended up filing it down so that it cleared again.

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This means that it's now lighter on that side and will be rougher on the bearings by a little bit. So I've probably got a new alternator in my future after all, but for now it works.

FetchMeAPepsi

June 4th, 2013, 04:34 AM

Today I spent over 2 hours monkeying around with an electrical gremlin. I chased the brown wire from the alternator to the idiot light and found that if the plug is out by just a hair it won't work. Really, a hair's width. Sensitive little fellow.

Then the parts fairy showed up cleverly disguised as a Fedex driver. Notice the wings.

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She delivered my Slick Sand, my paint sprayer, my extra tips, durablocks and sandpaper, taping paper, tape, a water/oil filter for the air line, and some inner panel rustproofer. I love getting presents!

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And this little gizmo. It's a creeper that folds up into a chair that rolls. It's awesome!

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Maybe one day they'll let me try it...

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That was about it for today. Oh, and that battery finally bit the dust. For now Cecilia's running off of my jumpbox.

Oh wait, I did something else too. You see this lil' critter sitting next to my dead battery? It's a little overflow tank I picked up for $22 bucks on Amazon. It goes to a 1992 Toyota Camry and it fits perfectly in the empty spot beside the battery here. I do need to work on the hose routing a bit, but I'm very pleased with this little gem. Cheap, does the job, and fits snug without any drilling or screwing.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 17th, 2013, 12:24 AM

Today it was 98 freaking degrees outside. I worked on some water play for the kids then when they were enjoying a cooling off they'll probably remember forever, I sneaked 100 ft over to Cecilia and got to work on her leaky radiator.

For a while now I've been bugged by her steaming up when she gets hot. She gets up to normal operating temperature then out of the top right hand side (driver's side) she'll shoot steam out onto the motor. It's cost me around $10.00 in distilled water jugs so far to refill her.

If you've followed along you'll know that I still have to drive her from time to time so I grabbed a very handy little coolant overflow tank that fit perfectly on the other side of the battery. This kept her cool while I did my necessaries until I could get her pulled apart and get parts in for fixing her.

So I go to work pulling her radiator out. It's a pretty easy and straightforward process. And I was surprised by how light the radiator was. It was probably 50 lbs or so I'd guess. Heavy but not too bad.

Tools you will need:
Flathead screwdriver
Wrenches to disconnect the battery
9/16 socket wrench and one small extension
Some carburetor cleaning dip
Some 50/50 silver solder
A propane torch
A wire brush or wire wheel for your drill

The first thing I did was disconnect the battery. That's because I'd be working right around the engine fan and I sure didn't want to lose an arm. My dad had stories about guys that had been working on cars and a helpful kid or a mistaken wire turned the engine over and broke their arms off. I don't know if the stories are true, but I'm attached to my appendages.

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Then I took loose the top hose. There's just one screw clamp on it. This gets it out of the way in case things go sideways down in the bottom hose we're working on.

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Remember with these you don't remove them, you just loosen them so they'll slide down the hose a bit.

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Then give the ol' hose a wiggle and a twist. And POP! Off she comes. Notice the rust.

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Then I unscrewed the bottom hose. It's wayyy down on the bottom. It takes a flathead screwdriver too.

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When you get the bottom hose loose make sure to remove it all the way from the radiator or it'll hang you up when you go to pick the radiator up and out.

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When you take the bottom hose off it'll spring forth with a green rain. REMEMBER for those of you that have shop dogs or cats that this stuff is POISONOUS and it will KILL THEM. Plus it tastes sweet so they love it and over indulge. Water it down with the hose if you don't want to be burying fluffy tomorrow. Or collect it.
I actually was going to clamp off the hose before taking it off but it has a spring inside the hose to keep it from collapsing. It won't clamp.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 17th, 2013, 01:28 AM

Then I started removing the bolts. I started with the lower bolts first because I didn't want to be removing lower bolts when the radiator was wanting to fall on me. This is the driver's side.

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Here's the last bolt. Be careful when it's close to the end! It'll pinch on ya as the radiator tries to fall a bit.

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Then do the other side, again starting with the bottom bolts. This side is tougher to get to (or get a pic of!)

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Then I disconnected my overflow hose.

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Once those three are out you can raise up on the radiator a bit. The side brackets will fall off to the side. Don't panic! That's by design.
Edited: This is not by design. The side brackets are supposed to be soldered to the radiator but apparently mine broke loose sometime in the last 50 years. I didn't find out that they were supposed to be stuck together until a reply to this thread pointed it out. Thanks David!

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When my radiator came out I realized it had a drain plug on it. Well, I did it the fast way so I guess it didn't matter!

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I threw the bolts I just removed in the carb dip for a cleaning. I should have been doing this with alot of stuff I've worked on but... Well hindsight is 20/20 and all that.

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Once your radiator is out you can hire a little Powder Puff Mechanic from your local sprinkler yard to slosh over and run a wire brush over the offending area. She got through the black, through the green copper-rust and down to the shiny copper. She said, "Ooo Daddy this is sooooo pretty!" Then she thought a second and started scrubbing again. "I'm going to find out what's under the copper!"
Oh no you don't! :lol:

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Here I grabbed a couple of rubber bands and then I needed some plastic to plug up the radiator hose connections. I couldn't find any plastic lying around but I did find an empty Ritz Cracker wrapper and an old bag of Subway chips.

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Hmm, they work!

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 17th, 2013, 01:35 AM

Then I filled the tank with water from the hose with the help of my Powder Puff again.

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I flipped the radiator over and there was my leak. Right at the bullet hole looking things but on the outside. Looks like it just came loose at the seam!
Lucky me!

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Drain the tank and put it somewhere to dry. It was about to rain on us so we put it on the porch until tomorrow.

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When I walked in, sweating like a pig at election (some of you will know that saying lol) my youngest was not happy with not getting to see her daddy all day. Maybe we'll have a new powder puff mechanic soon!

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FetchMeAPepsi

July 1st, 2013, 03:54 AM

I have a confession to make. I get discouraged when I can't drive Cecilia.

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Like, depressed sad overwhelmed style discouraged. :nervous:This is my first time working on an automobile so maybe that's normal. A wise man once told me "when you're feeling down don't start a project you can't finish in a weekend. Keep her drivable."

I started the radiator on the 16th, and it's the 30th. Today I finally put her back together and had to postpone dinner so I could get in and DRIVE my baby for a bit. It felt so good to spin her tires again.

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It's not like this every time. When I first got her it took a while to get her running well enough to drive. Maybe it's just a phase I'm going through or this great weather making me feel the need to cruise. Anyway, it wears on me..... and "that's about all I have to saaayy about thayyaattt"

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So here's how the radiator went from that point on...

FetchMeAPepsi

July 1st, 2013, 05:08 AM

I yanked my bolts out of the dip 24 hours after putting them in. They were not as nice as I expected.
:pullinghairout:

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As luck would have it as I was pulling out my bolts the Fedex guy drove up and delivered my new wire wheel for my drill.

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So I threw 'em in a vice and got to work polishing the rust off.

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They looked ok, but I thought why not go ahead and paint 'em? So I did.
I put them in a block of wood I had with holes already in it. They fit.

Primer:

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When they dried I hit them with this stuff. It's high heat black paint so the engine heat will be no problem.

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While they dried I went back to my radiator. Check out these suckers.

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So I grabbed this flux and 50/50 silver solder
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I put a bucket of water under my work area to catch any solder that fell, then I set to work applying flux.

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I turned on my torch to low (it blows harder when it's upside down so you gotta make sure it's low). Then I strung out my solder.

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Then I just got after it. You really have to make sure not to heat it too much though. And if were doing it again I would put wet rags on either side of my work area to keep from messing up the factory solder and making more holes.
I chased holes for two weeks.

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Once you think you're done you can put water in it and lean it over. Your solder only needs to hold about 7 lbs of pressure so there's not a lot of pressure there. If you did a good job it won't leak.

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Don't forget to put the cap on or you'll end up with wet shoes.

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I kept having weeping through the side in mine and almost never found it. Two weeks later it looked like this because there is a very small crack on the tank above the seam here that I almost never found. I soldered my butt off on that stupid thing.

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In between soldering sessions I thought, what about that radiator mount? It's awful ugly. So I took it outside and sprayed it down with oven cleaner, which is supposed to clean it down to bare metal.
It didn't.

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While I thought on that a bit I decided to pull that rebuilt alternator back out and polish it up. I should have done this to begin with.

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Oooo Purty stuff!

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I thought the alternator arm looked ugly too. Sanded and primed along with the mounting bolts.

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I forgot to mention that it is very important that you keep your sugar level up while working on your truck. These are awesome.

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FetchMeAPepsi

July 1st, 2013, 05:43 AM

Hand sanding the radiator bracket was slow and made my spaghetti arms tired. I saw little progress in the deep rust.
So I got out my orbital sander and put 80 grit on it. It didn't do much better.

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So I got out the Speed Blaster gun. You can get it from Amazon for about 45 bucks. It works off of any compressor. I filled it with Black Beauty sanding media.

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Then I stapled an old painting sheet to the fence outside. I should have used two or three sheets, but I didn't. This pic is upside down for some reason.

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I put on a dust mask and eye protection. After the first 3 minutes I found a pair of gloves too. That sand HURTS!
Then I blasted like a madman. It's like running a crayola or an eraser. It just makes the rust disappear in a quarter sized circle. The sheet was great because all the used media was right there at my feet to re-load in the sandblaster and shoot again.

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The only problem is it turned me from a redneck to a black-neck. This stuff was everywhere when I was done.

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After blasting I primed and painted with the same high heat paint.
Then three coats of clear.

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While it dried I mounted my alternator and found a problem with my painting process on the bolts. Hmph!

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Then I put my radiator mount in. I had to take it back out though because it doesn't mount well like this. It's easier to put the radiator into the mount, then set the entire set into the truck slowly.

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I don't have pics of me putting the whole radiator in because I had my hands full of radiator. My PP mechanic was inside making brownies for me so I can't blame her either. They was sum good brownies too. If you guys were closer I'd let you try them.

After settling the radiator in and letting it sit on the lower hose I wiggled it around to get the first bolt in on the driver's side at the top. Not snug, but just started on the threads. Some finagling is left to do to get the other bolts in.

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Then on the other side I raised it up and put that bolt in snugly.

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Then I pulled the radiator hose from under it at the bottom and I put the remaining bolts in, only tightening them after all six were fitting nicely in their threads.

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Then I hooked up the lower hose and tightened it down.

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Next was the top hose.

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Finally the little overflow hose and fill her up with just tapwater while we test it at operating temperature.

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After that I started her up and let her run for a few minutes to see if she leaked. After she got warm I took her for a spin for about 20 minutes to make sure. After verifying that my repair job held I cleaned up all my mess and went in for a shower. Let me tell you it felt sooooo good to get to drive her again.

Now I gotta pull the radiator out again to paint it too. And put antifreeze in her. Can't let it run around without antifreeze if I want to keep driving her.:whipit:

FetchMeAPepsi

July 7th, 2013, 04:03 PM

A few guys asked me recently how long I've been turning wrenches. I said "What? Have you seen my thread?"

To me its obvious that I have no idea what I'm doing by the disjointed way I go about my build here. My philosophy is to find whats leaking or squeaking then see how I can make it stop in the cheapest, yet most effective way possible. In the process I end up chasing rabbits and fixing or destroying other stuff. As for experience well I changed my oil about three times in high school in my 1983 chevy truck. More because my dad sat out there and made me do it than because I had any interest in using my hands.

I guess what Im saying is I'm just a monkey with a wrench and a truck. The only way i keep from blowing things up is with alot of reading. I pick a project then I read all I can find about it online. Then I go try it myself, usually mess up the first time, then I have a little luck and it works out right. :lolflag:
Like CoyoteRun says, Ill fix it myself and pay the extra $500 haha!

Take this weekend for example. It's a great view to my thinking as I go through a project. I got to feeling my oats and pulled Cecilia into the garage. Its 96 degrees here so keeping her in the shade really renewed my wrench-turning itch. I looked at her standing there with her tall 4wd self and I thought Whats next?

I put cardboard under her because I knew she had a few leaks and I wanted to better pinpoint them and I didnt want her marking her territory on my garage floor. By the way I mentioned a rolly chair/creeper earlier. You can see the kids playing on it in a previous post. I got it because I had hip surgery and it helped me slide around to different locations without getting on the ground. I put it into creeper mode and man is it ever a back and hip saver. If you have any kind of back or leg problem I recommend it.

Anyway I got myself down on the creeper and WHOOSH! I was zipping along underneath her like a baby on a slip and slide. Engine, transfer case, rear end, I was everywhere. I placed my cardboard bits down and left it for a couple of days to check the drips. It looks like the rear end is leaking the most for me so I did my usual "step back and look at it" routine. What should I do first?

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First I find out what I'm looking at. I'm pretty sure I'll need seals and oil. That goes without saying. But rear ends on trucks are like rear ends on people. They're not all the same. I take a putty knife and scrape all around the rear end to find some number or something.

David R Leifheit

July 7th, 2013, 06:40 PM

In regards to your radiator, where you said:

"Once those three are out you can raise up on the radiator a bit. The side brackets will fall off to the side. Don't panic! That's by design."

I'd say... not on any radiator I've removed. That assembly is soldered/welded to the radiator.

On my '63-'66 trucks there are two brackets at the bottom and one at the top that hold it in, with no side brackets at all. But for 60-62, those side brackets are soldered/welded to the radiator. :)
loose early radiator:
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1962:
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David R Leifheit

July 7th, 2013, 06:46 PM

A few guys asked me recently how long I've been turning wrenches. I said "What? Have you seen my thread?"
...
As for experience well I changed my oil about three times in high school in my 1983 chevy truck. More because my dad sat out there and made me do it than because I had any interest in using my hands.

Sounds like you got your training similar to mine.
My dad *made* me help him, then take over doing, the routine maintenance on vehicles, mostly because his dad didn't. I hated every minute of it. And now I have more tools than any sane person needs, and am only short actual machining equipment when it comes to being able to rebuild a vehicle.

The only formal training I had was my folks' made me take a small engine repair class in high school, we rebuilt a lawnmower engine. Woo Hoo.

But you know, a lawnmower (Briggs & Stratton) really is no different than any other motor, just fewer pistons.

I went to college to learn how to do "white collar" jobs so I would never need to get my hands dirty. I haven't really had a white collar job -yet- and I graduated High School almost 35 years ago. Seems I was destined to get my hands dirty (and cut/scraped, back broke, head banged, etc. etc.)

FetchMeAPepsi

July 9th, 2013, 12:23 AM

I'd say... not on any radiator I've removed. That assembly is soldered/welded to the radiator.

I had no idea! I PMd Jeannie to see if she would put that in my post for me. I can't edit it anymore.

Sounds like you got your training similar to mine.
My dad *made* me help him, then take over doing, the routine maintenance on vehicles, mostly because his dad didn't. I hated every minute of it. And now I have more tools than any sane person needs, and am only short actual machining equipment when it comes to being able to rebuild a vehicle.

The only formal training I had was my folks' made me take a small engine repair class in high school, we rebuilt a lawnmower engine. Woo Hoo.

But you know, a lawnmower (Briggs & Stratton) really is no different than any other motor, just fewer pistons.

I went to college to learn how to do "white collar" jobs so I would never need to get my hands dirty. I haven't really had a white collar job -yet- and I graduated High School almost 35 years ago. Seems I was destined to get my hands dirty (and cut/scraped, back broke, head banged, etc. etc.)

:lolflag: Dads are great aren't they? I hope my son complains about me when he hits 30 for the same reason.
Take that posterity! :whipit:

FetchMeAPepsi

July 9th, 2013, 01:16 AM

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I never found any numbers, but if you look at my springs you can see that they're held on with a U-bolt. That's telling right there. I can tell from the shape of the rear end cover that it's either a Dana 44 or a Dana 60. Thats all that was offered on K1000 in 1962. So without finding any numbers and seeing that the U-bolts were used I can assume it's a Dana 44, the most common rear end in GM trucks.

How do I know that? I searched and read about other people that had similar trucks and didn't know what rear end they had. I could still be wrong. It could be the much sought after Dana 60, but I doubt it. This was a farm truck.

This was going to be some insight into the monkey with wrenches mindset so try to follow this next part...It's jumpy.

Seeing that I identified my rear I thought hmm thats way down there. I might not be able to lie down that long enough to do it right all at once.

Then I thought those springs are rusty.

Then I thought what's that in the bed of my truck? Oh yeah, the old floor mat that broke. I should toss that.

Then I thought look at that plywood in the bed. A 4x8 sheet fits perfectly huh?

Then I thought well that looks like crap. I wonder what the bed wood looks like under?

And that's when I thought to myself it would be alot easier to remove the bed to get to the rear end and I could paint the undersides while I was at it.

So that's what led me from I wonder what's leaking most? to "Hey lets remove the bed!"
See? Jumpy.

I called the kiddos over and asked if they wanted to do any vacuuming in the bed. Surprisingly they both jumped at the chance.

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They picked all the little screws and acorns off of it then I ran around pulling out the decking screws. Then we lifted it up.

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Not as bad as I would have thought really. It only has three holes in it. I would have probably still used it like it is. The kids then started vacuuming the old wood. The boy got the first half. Dig the shark shoes eatin up the dirt. Nom nom nom!

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Then the powder puff got the second half.

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Nearest I can tell there's only four bolts holding the bed to the frame. Here's two pictured.

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The thought process started up again at this point.

Cant remove the bed without removing the bumper which i wanted to paint anyway.

And cant remove the bumper without removing the lights.

Hey those lights look awful and rusty. I should paint 'em!

And thats how I went from Lets fix a leak to Lets paint some taillights. Get it? Me either.

I checked out the way the tail lights were mounted. They have a plastic sheath on them up through the bumper.

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I pulled out a 7/16 wrench and got to wrenching on the nuts.

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Once both of them were off I snipped the wires going to the light. I later found out this wasn't necessary. Don't snip your wires if you don't have to.

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I put the light can down and removed the two screws on the face of it to look inside at the eww inside. Nice rust collection on the outside here. It had rust on the inside too.

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To remove the bulb you give it a light push on the bulb and twist the bulb to the left (righty tighty lefty loosey) then pull it out. See the little nubs on the side of the bulb's shiny gold part? Those are different heights on each side. That means that you can't put it in backwards. Each nub has to go in a specific slot when you put it back in. And be careful of the bulb itself. It is glass after all.

Hopefully you got yours removed. :)

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Then push the wires through the hole the same way the bulb just went.

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Then tape up the plastic white reflector on the bottom if you can't get it out.

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You might tape up the inside of it too to protect it from overspray. I didn't and hit it with a little bit. Actually I painted my dang Iphone too if you can believe that. I sat it down to move some things for pictures, sprayed the things, and saw a nice little PSSSHHHHTTT line across the phone's glass.
Nice.

I sanded that can out and painted it black with bedliner paint. It's supposed to be tough enough to take a punch and not fall apart like regular paint. I'm planning on using it on anything black that will see dirt and rocks.

Then I went back and labeled that wire I cut off at the truck.

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FetchMeAPepsi

July 9th, 2013, 04:00 AM

The second lights were connected with a different plug than the first one. It looked like a simple socket so I pulled and worked it back and forth until it popped out. Then I wondered if I broke it. I might end up re-wiring this light.

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I looked at the wire track now, wondering how I'd get this fat plug through the hole in the bed side.

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I followed them to here. It seems there's a junction block of sorts, at least on my truck, under the rail near the bumper.

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The top light plugged in here, the bottom next to it here.

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Before pulling it through I checked the routing. It wasn't exactly elegant. I went ahead and pulled it through and set it aside.

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Back on the bottom light plug I pushed it through a little to see what was in the socket-like cover. It didn't look broken.

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The light it plugged into was made differently inside, just slightly. I was able to remove a leveraged piece of wire to get the white part of the light removed entirely.

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All of the cans got the rubdown with a scotchbrite style paint removal pad. I seem to have lost my wire wheel somewhere. The Raid can is because a couple flies kept dive bombing me. This flying insect killer puts them down NOW. It's good stuff. Oh, and I'm getting fat. Hmm.

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Painted can with nuts etc. I didn't paint the threads lol.

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Oddly the only wire connected to the bottom light was this one. The other side just wrapped around the frame, unused. :confused:

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I forgot to mention I slapped a label on each light so I knew where they went afterward.

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The passenger side routing is at least clipped in two places.

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Top passenger side light plugged here.

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The other wire was just wrapped around a support and hanging loose.

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The bottom pass side plugged here and here.

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Even the clips get polished and painted. They'll see dirt so they get bedliner.

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The workspace.

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A shot of the paint. Next I remove the bumper.

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FetchMeAPepsi

July 14th, 2013, 06:13 AM

Waaaaalllll (well), I don't really remove the bumper. I put one light back on the rear so I can get to Lowes and pick up some 4x4's to put the bed on. Then I got back, removed my one light, and set about removing the bumper.

First step, observation. And that's as far as I got.

The dang thing seems to be welded to the frame! :noway:

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I wish I had a sonic screwdriver.

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That idea scrapped, I went ahead and pulled off the pigtail connections to the little junction box and set it aside with the rear lights I already removed.

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Then it was off with the steps. On the steps for the stepside there are 7 bolt points. Five that are a standard bolt/nut holding it to the bed and two that bolt to through the step portion to a support bracket. The two that go through the steps are round topped bolts that you'll need to lock some vise grip style pliers on if you want to get them off.

I started with the two round top bolts because they were out and easy to get to. Take your vise grips and lock them onto the bolt heads on the step bottoms. Then take a socket and put it on the nuts underneath the step. Then get to twisting.

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On these step bolts it goes bolt, step, washer, lockwasher, and nut. On the bedside bolts it goes bolt, washer, bed and step, lockwasher, and nut. The step bolts came off without incident after I buggared the smooth heads up enough to get them locked on.

Then came the bolts that go to the bed. They're here and here, 5 total. A middle bolt is shown in both pics because I couldn't get my camera positioned to take a bigger shot. .

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Once you get those suckers off it just pulls away.

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I put the bolts back in so I would remember the washer positions. Also to keep them from walking off. Loose nuts and bolts have been scientifically proven to morph into living creatures when left alone. Then they crawl off and hide in your other vehicles, making rattles you'll never find.

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With the steps off you're left with these large jutting brackets.

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And this pokey kick-stand that bolts to the fenders. I tried taking this off but it wouldn't turn a full twist with the bed in place. And I've heard it's hard to buy them so I'm taking it easy on this baby. She's staying put for now.

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To remove the ugly bracket though you'll need a 1/2 inch socket. And I highly recommend some PB Blaster because the nuts are welded on. I didn't use any and had two twist off inside the nuts. BAD!!! :ahhhh:

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Really you might need your 7/16 and vise grips again first. I had to remove a bolt that went through the bed wood before removing the bracket because the nut and part of the bolt crowded the top bolt and I couldn't fit the socket onto it. Here's a pic of it waayyyy up there.

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And a shot of the top view where you'll have to lock the vise grips on.

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The in-the-way bolt removed. I don't know why I snapped one of this except that I had a heck of a time getting the vise grips on it. It kept spinning off as I'd turn it from underneath.

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The bracket has welded on nut so you don't need vise grips for that. rest of the bracket removal went without a hitch on the driver's side. To celebrate I did something easy. Remove the spare tire holder.

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The passenger side was another story. That's where I twisted off both bolts into those welded on nuts. What the heck do I do now? :poke:

I've heard that you drill them out. It sounded simple. It isn't.

I tried to be safe. I used a punch to mark the bolt bits before drilling.

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Then I drilled. It went in but moved sort of sideways halfway through. No amount of twisting or moving would set it back straight.

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Here's what I was left with. I thought about removing the nuts but as I mentioned they're welded on. I couldn't knock them off without damaging the bracket. I'm still trying to figure out what to do. :confused:

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jbgroby

July 14th, 2013, 12:39 PM

The 4 fender braces (kickstand things) are available for $80.00 in the LMC catalog. I held onto mine as well and will simple paint them.

WDShaffer

July 18th, 2013, 07:15 AM

You can gently use an angle grinder to cut the welds, then weld new nuts in place with a mig or tig welder...keeping with the spend $500 to fix it myself theme. ��

Andice

July 19th, 2013, 08:58 PM

Drill them out - including the threads - and re-tap using the next size up. Maybe even metric if needed. No grinding, no welding, low-cost.

FetchMeAPepsi

July 19th, 2013, 09:39 PM

You can gently use an angle grinder to cut the welds, then weld new nuts in place with a mig or tig welder...keeping with the spend $500 to fix it myself theme. ��

That sounds like exactly what I should do :thumbsup:

I need to finaygle access to a welder. I did some practice welding last year when I thought I'd need to weld some on the body panels. Stack o dimes I am not. :teehee:

Today my oldest bebe said she wanted to paint my hood emblems so I pulled those off. They take a 7/16 socket or nut driver.

Here's how they looked. Someone at one time painted them all white with a spray can.

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Open the hood and poke yer 7/16 nut driver through the hole inside. If you crane your neck you can see it with a flashlight and get it on pretty easily.

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They're on kinda tight so here's your big boy panties.

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Grunt alot in case someone is watching. To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? remember that you're loosening the only thing holding it to the hood. And that it's over your head. OVER...YOUR HEAD....Hold it up with your free hand as it comes loose or suffer the consequences.

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Then I took them to the sink to wash them off and scrub them with a scotch brite sponge (green side).

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I sat them in the window to dry.

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You may be saying, "What the heck dude! You left paintz on there!" :whipit: Well these are aluminum and the general consensus for outdoor aluminum is that if original paint is still sticking well you should prime over it. It's not like painting steel where it's better to sand it down to shiny metal. I did get all of the spray paint off. Promise!

So after drying I primed them with two very light coats so I didn't fill in the details on it, I left them to dry and be collected by the redheaded baker of the family.

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Another shot of the stuff I use to prime everything. Except the body panels, frame, bumpers, and heavy stuff. That'll get epoxy primer if/when I get to it.

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FetchMeAPepsi

July 19th, 2013, 09:54 PM

Someone PMd me and asked for pics of the spare tire carrier. I put as much detail in this as I could think of just in case some of you can't find one and want to build your own. I bet it could be done without too much trouble if you're a welder.

Here it is from the front. It was only tied to the truck with three bolts pictured. There are two more bolt holes at the top but they have welded on nuts. PLEASE PLEASE USE PB BLASTER AND LOW TORQUE TO REMOVE THEM if you're taking one off of a junkyard machine or you'll break them off in the welded nuts!

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Here's a side view with my manual peeking out from the left. Toasty!

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Looking at the bottom of it. Mine is old and used so it's got funny measurements as it goes up and down.

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Picture of it held in it's place on the truck.

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Here's a pic of it on my kitchen counter. Wife's not home haha! It's 20 inches long.

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FetchMeAPepsi

July 19th, 2013, 10:05 PM

Sorry for this picture. It's my thumb but the measurement is still clear at the bottom. This is measuring the width of the carrier, 10 1/2 inches.

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A supporting rod measurement

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Middle supporting rod

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Bottom supporting rod.

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Bottom of mounting plate

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Side of the mounting plate

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Top of the mounting plate.

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View from the back showing the bent rods making the mount area.

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:goodluck:

FetchMeAPepsi

July 19th, 2013, 10:13 PM

Drill them out - including the threads - and re-tap using the next size up. Maybe even metric if needed. No grinding, no welding, low-cost.

I tried drilling them out but they went all sideways on me even after I punched them with a punch. :pullinghairout:

Cayoterun

July 19th, 2013, 11:27 PM

Drill them out - including the threads - and re-tap using the next size up. Maybe even metric if needed. No grinding, no welding, low-cost.

As an interested follower of this thread. Great idea!! After many years of tinkering, it never soaked in on me to drill and tap any that twisted off. Proves your never too old to learn.

Hey, Fetch, This ol' Geezer has profited from your build, too.

Thanks, Andice,

FetchMeAPepsi

July 20th, 2013, 02:33 AM

Andice

July 20th, 2013, 03:20 AM

Turn the piece over and start again from the other side. You may have to grind down any excess bolt material. Larger bits tend to travel less. The first one is the toughest - after that you'll be a pro. This will work well on the front fender tail bolts which are almost always ready to twist off

Cayoterun

July 20th, 2013, 03:38 PM

Coyote, Andice, how do you guys drill a straight hole and keep it from running off into the sunset? Above I tapped it with a punch to put a starter hole but then it just wandered off to the right and no amount of pushin could get it back where it was supposed to be.

Fetch: I've had the same trouble, so I'm readin' and listenin' for new tricks, too.

I have drilled them crooked, but then cheated by using a smaller bolt and adding a nut, but that don't always work due to space or access.

WDShaffer

July 20th, 2013, 03:52 PM

FetchMeAPepsi

July 21st, 2013, 06:05 AM

I will admit, I already have the welder...and I use a fiber cutoff wheel. The square stove bolt nuts fit right in place, too.

I have used heat before, too. Using a large torch tip or a rosebud tip, heat the offender to dull red (bright red too close to melting). If a nub is sticking out the back try to screw the remnant through. (Not a task for your PFs...very hot work).

I'll take it to my FIL's house and use his torch/welder/drill press to see what kinda damage I can do. Worst case I can always run a bolt through it and put a nut on the end but with it being so tight up there I'd rather go back to a welded nut.

Today was kinda weak. I got five 4x4 treated posts with the plan to build a frame to put my bed on before retiring the wood to fence post duty. Here they are kinda laid out. Four are cut at 3' each and I'll space them 6 feet apart, then use one 8' board/log to brace one side by bolting it to two of the 3' boards. The other side won't be braced. If that makes sense at all. Kids won't be allowed over there for safety reasons.

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So I laid out my boards intending to drill holes into them and dry-fit them so I had an idea of what I was doing. Nope - my nails were too short to go through both boards. GRRR!

Here's a shot of my whiteboard with some helper-added tidbits including lyrics to "If I had a million dollars" and some of my son's stinky turds. He's obsessed with drawing turds lately. I hope he's not becoming a fecalphiliac. To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? )

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So this means spending money on bolts and by now we know how tight I am. Guess I'll be picking up some 6" spikes or lag bolts next week sometime.

Instead I sprayed PB Blaster on the 8 bolts that I think are all that holds my bed to my frame.

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Then I went out back and replaced a board on my deck, grumbling about my lack of planning. Afterward I met our new neighbors. Seem to be nice people, but who knows. Maybe I can get him hooked on GMCs :lolflag:

tommyduncan

July 25th, 2013, 03:37 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

July 26th, 2013, 01:54 AM

Thank you for taking the time and trouble to do this build thread. It brings back memories of my daughter helping me with a 61 Chevy Brookwood wagon years ago. She is almost 20 now...

I also acquired a 62 with a V6 recently so I read this from the beginning. I won't have it home for another month so I am absorbing all the Info I can from threads like yours:notworthy:

I'm glad I could stir up some memories for you! I have to say this is my favorite time of life right now. I'm not rich and I'm not the healthiest guy but when the Powder Puff and I are out there turning wrenches I'm about as happy as I can be. Each moment is golden. :bananadance:

Good luck with the 62. it's a fun year but alot of parts arent made for it anymore unlike the 4-5-6's. We gotta get creative in this camp sometimes. Still you caint beat that wraparound windshield in my book. It's allllllll classssssss
Do you have any pics of the wagon? My oldest got my emblems painted this week. Its crazy how much it makes me grin when any of them take an interest. I'll post pics of it tomorrow.

Speaking of tomorrow (well, saturday anyway) it's the day for the Big Bed Removal! Hoping I have all the bolts lined out and ready for takeoff. :ahhhh:

tommyduncan

July 26th, 2013, 02:52 AM

Do you have any pics of the wagon?
This is the only pic I have. My best friend was with me when I bought it and when I was ready to sell it we made a deal. He painted it red. This is the reflection of it in the quarter panel of his 66 El Camino that he painted himself
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I sold it to him to buy a gutted 63 Nova SS Convertible. I have been dragging it around for years while other projects came and went. I have since located all of the hard to find convertible only parts and it is just waiting for the time to be right, which is very soon!
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The main reason for wanting a truck was to tow my Nova, Jeep, and for home projects. I traded a motorcycle for a 63 Chevy long step but it is not close enough to what I want.
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FetchMeAPepsi

July 28th, 2013, 03:32 AM

Great looking wagon and '63. As you can see I'm partial to longsteppers myself :D
When you start the nova Id like to see a build thread on that too.

FetchMeAPepsi

July 28th, 2013, 04:59 AM

Wow guys. Today....what a day. I'm so sore I feel like....well,

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I just spent most of the day trying to get this bed done. Here's what I've done so far.

For this portion you'll need:

A helper. Strength not necessary.
A severe lack of brain cells
A 1/2 inch socket
A 9/16 socket
A 5/8 socket
Socket wrench. Required for the tight spots.
An impact wrench if you have one. Not necessary but handy.
A hammer
A pair of GOOD vice grips or two pair of crappy Stanley brand vice grips. (one will be ruined)
Some PB Blaster if you haven't shot them already (BIG difference
A flathead screwdriver
5 4x4 fence posts (about $7.50 each at Lowes)
6 - 10 6 inch lag bolts (About 0.75 each at Lowes)
A drill and a drill bit that is lag bolt'ish in diameter
Some musk'les or some spinach to make you some musk'les

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I don't have any muskles. Yeah I know everyone's a butt flexing workout freak now. Not me though. My arms are smaller than the fence posts we're working with. What can I say? I got a life. I'll never be a gym rat. :ohgeesh:

But you make due with whatcha got right?

Here we go. :whipit:

There are 8 bolts holding the bed to the frame, plus two holding it to the bumper in my case.

Get those vice grips and grab the first bolt-head. These have to be held still while you unscrew the nut from the bottom. I started in the driver's side front.

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Get it clamped on good too or you'll be playing Whack A Mole as you jump up and reattach it after every turn. If you're using cheap Stanley brand of vice grips here's where they'll start to wear the teeth off. That's why you need two pair.

Ok, then move underneath and get your socket put on this nut on the frame. I PB Blastered mine and let it sit a full week so they came off really easy. Bzzzzt! Done.

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The next one is right toward the tailgate about 8 inches from the first. Top view:

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And bottom view. All of the front nuts are between frame braces like this.

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Then I moved to the one by the tailgate. I skipped over the one closer to the rear center line because the nut is in a goofy place on the inside of the frame.

Clamped on:

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And bottom view on the nut:

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Now we move to the weird one just cabward from the one we just did. Clamp on it up top as before. Then brace the vice grips against something because this bolt is far out in the middle. It'll spin like a top if you don't brace it. I chose the Powder Puff Mechanic's feet as my brace. She got the giggles when it turned and pitched her off.

Ignore the blue step on the left. I had to put the removed pieces in the bed to keep them from being underfoot.

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For the nut you have to lie down and crawl under the truck. Then look back the way you came into the frame. Peek-A-Boo! There it is. PB Blaster it now if you haven't before.

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Getting under there is tough on old worn out bones. I use a super nifty crawler ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ) that turns into a seat to get under there with my bad back and hip. It's a transformer. Did I mention it's awesome?

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Yeah, it's great :) Sorry, I think about it every time I have to get down low and it friggin HURTS. It makes life a lot easier.

Anyway, slide around under the truck with a socket wrench. There's no spot for an impact here. Also I didn't PB Blast this because I didn't see it earlier. This was a tough nut to crack by hand.

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The powder puff liked standing on the vice grips so much she stuck with it for the remaining bolts. I moved to the rearward bolt on the passenger side next.

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TIP: To keep from losing my nuts I hand threaded them all back on the bolts after removing them. I had to drive Cecilia to the back yard so this also kept it in place. Tough to explain a truck bed in the middle of the road to the neighbors. :ahhhh:

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Here's my helper standing on the bolts again.

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I removed the other two by the cab without fanfare. Here they are in one pic because I was winding down and getting tired.

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FetchMeAPepsi

July 28th, 2013, 05:22 AM

Due to this being a one man and two little kid show I wanted to remove the tailgate to make this thing a little lighter.

I put a 1/2 inch socket on it and spun it.

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Put a helper on the other side to catch the fallout. Our helper here lost two more teeth last night. In one night. I said, "Go brush your teeth for bed" last night and she said, "Daddy, I don't have any more teeth!" Har har.

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Mine were stuck in this stupid welded-on bumper. I whacked it with a hammer and it gave up pretty quickly.

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After getting both chains off I started on the nut at the bottom of the tailgate.
 To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? YOU NEED TO BRACE THE TAILGATE BEFORE DOING THIS.

I thought it was a bolt that ran the length of the tailgate. I was very very wrong. I spun it about a half-second then the entire tailgate fell off into the floor. The Powder Puff was only about 6 inches off to the side.

Here's her reaction right afterward.

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I can't show you mine. I was pretty upset by this hunk of heavy steel almost hitting my kid. I don't swear but I sure had a frowny face on for a while. :tickedoff:

Here's all that holds the tailgate on.

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After that we moved Cecilia back to the backyard. Actually no, we took a little break to cool off. Then our new neighbors pulled up and what are they towing? No, not a GMC, but a '78 Camaro. My oldest said, "Ooo Daddy, you guys can talk about old junky cars together! You'll be besties!" LOL!
We walked out and shot the bull with them for about 30 mins or so. I'm even more convinced that they're pretty good people now. You can't beat great neighbors. He wants to paint his camaro himself by winter. Maybe I'll get to help and get some tips.

As a side note, if I paint Cecilia it'll be the dead last thing I do. I don't know why everyone wants to hurry to paint. Don't you just scratch it all up while you're working on the rest of it? I don't trust myself that much. I'm sure I'd ruin any paintjob if I wasn't almost all finished before shooting paint.

OK now we moved to the backyard.

Vernski

July 28th, 2013, 05:33 AM

That is a tough job for two grown men no matter how you do it, rusty bolts are the curse of the GMC owner.My sympathy is with your skinned knuckle's that take drive..Vernski:goodjob:

FetchMeAPepsi

July 28th, 2013, 05:54 AM

After driving her to the back we cleaned her bed out.

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Removed all of the bolts. Here's a tip - they're all the same. Someone told me they're different lengths. They're not.

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Then I placed the first post in the front between the bed and frame. You don't have to lift or anything to get it started. It's already got a void that fits partway in.

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At this point I remembered that there is an electrical junction on the bed by the bumper. DOH! I took that off with a flathead screwdriver.

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Then I lifted it up so my helper could shove the board through to the other side. My helper is my oldest daughter this time. She's not strong, she's not tough. She's just a girly girl. If she can do it just about anyone you have hand can probably help just fine.

Pay no mind to that handsome guy in the pic.

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You have to really raise it up high and the bed flexes a lot. It's not very heavy in the front though.

The back is stupid heavy though. I had to crawl under it and push up with my feet (and bad hip) to get it up high enough to slip the posts in.

My oldest was supposed to snap a pic of me pushing the bed up. She just took a pick of what appears to be the old man's butt. Very funny ya punk kid.

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After getting a post under front and back (8 ft uncut) I still couldn't lift it over the bumper's fins in back because it weight about a billion pounds. So we put another block under the front.

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And the back. It looked like this.

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From my perch here I was finally able to lift it up to the top of the bumper fins. It wanted to push me over backward. I have a trailer back there though and used it to step on and brace myself. I recommend you don't do this at all. Get a cherry picker or a forklift and just pull it off. This is VERY DANGEROUS.

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I set it down gently on the fins themselves. This allowed us to move the boards to the front so I could pull it backward some without it falling off of all of the bracing blocks and killing me.

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When I pulled it backward off of the fins the first blocks collapsed. That was OK because it fell on the backups. I had it past the fins anyway at this point so I was golden as far as I was concerned.

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FetchMeAPepsi

July 28th, 2013, 06:09 AM

My plan was now to tie my braces together and drive forward. That didn't happen, but it sounded like a good plan.

I drilled pilot holes and ran my lag bolts into my boards under the rear.

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Then ran it in to secure the post and cross piece.

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Next I moved to the front. I picked up the front cross piece to put it on the post. No problem.

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But then I did the final "foot" on the driver's side front and the entire thing collapsed toward the rear. If it hadn't been for the trailer behind the truck the bed would have fallen to the ground and probably scratched or tore itself up horribly.

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At this point I was too worn out to do anything else. This was a real body killer here. This is what it looks like as I type this, my hands sore and throbbing and my muscles crying for pharmaceuticals. Note the boy making a surprise appearance. He happened to be in the mood to help as we were closing up. Shirtless. "Dis one's for da' way'dees! (ladies)"

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I'm dead. Tomorrow if I can move I'll go out there again and try to get it up on blocks again and nail a brace between the two posts as originally planned. I'll then pull forward till I get to the front stake pocket, then lift it over the fins as I did the rear. If I'm lucky.

I'll let you know how tomorrow goes.

Andice

July 28th, 2013, 10:05 PM

I guess that monster of a rear bumper is welded in place, eh? Too bad. I thought I had it tough just trying to lift my bed high enough to clear the upward curvature of the rear frame section - but your bumper "wings" are crazy high. I simply dropped my bed down on the driveway and let it sit on the tailgate. Then I tilted it forward on a sawhorse. Then we slid more support under the rear of the bed. I worried about how I was going to get my bed back on after the truck body was painted. I ended up recruiting some help with the offer of free beer. It worked.

FetchMeAPepsi

July 29th, 2013, 10:29 PM

That is a tough job for two grown men no matter how you do it, rusty bolts are the curse of the GMC owner.My sympathy is with your skinned knuckle's that take drive..Vernski:goodjob:

Thanks! I'm hard headed. Sometimes too much :(

I guess that monster of a rear bumper is welded in place, eh? Too bad. I thought I had it tough just trying to lift my bed high enough to clear the upward curvature of the rear frame section - but your bumper "wings" are crazy high. I simply dropped my bed down on the driveway and let it sit on the tailgate. Then I tilted it forward on a sawhorse. Then we slid more support under the rear of the bed. I worried about how I was going to get my bed back on after the truck body was painted. I ended up recruiting some help with the offer of free beer. It worked.

Yeah, I considered just taking a grinder to the fins and removing them altogether to make things easier but I wasn't sure I could weld them back on in the future. At least not and have them look right.
Your helper there doesn't look like your average "beer for work" buddy :D
You're a lucky man! My blonde won't even ride in my truck lol.

FetchMeAPepsi

July 29th, 2013, 10:50 PM

I went outside on Sunday sore and aching. I surveyed the wreckage.

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The first step was to see if things were stable. I looked underneath and saw it was resting on the trailer's tongue and the tongue spinny thing that runs the front wheel pad up and down. I forget what it's called.

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Then it hit me. It's right there halfway on the trailer anyway. The trailer is like 25 feet long. All it has on it now is a spare tarped 305....there's plenty of room!

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So I took the tailgate and pieces I had just put on the trailer off and started huffing it backward onto the trailer. My thoughts were that I could easily pick it up off of the trailer, at least easier than off the ground.

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After kinda walking it backward a bit I had to move around over the frame again and push from the front. Then it hit me - O To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? !!!!!!

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Standing on the rear axle gave me an amazing foot cramp! Ha ha you thought I died didn't you? That's why you shouldn't do this. Be smart and get someone to do it for you with heavy equipment. :D

From the front I walked it backward inch by inch, pushing one side then the other like youd do with a fridge.

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The tailgate area finally reached the trailer bed and stuck. So I pulled out my jack and put it under the truck bed to give it wheels to roll better into the trailer.

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Eventually I got it walked and rolled to the end of the bed. Whew!

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FetchMeAPepsi

July 29th, 2013, 11:18 PM

From here I tried to be a big tough man and lift it up over the fins again to clear the stake posts for the front but there was no way that was happening. I was too sore from yesterday and I'm just not that strong.

Instead I put my spare 4x4 under the bed from here to the trailer's front rail.

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Then I made my redhead come out and push the post down to take some of the weight off of me. Her little 90 lb frame wasn't big enough to push it down so she improvised.

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I eventually got it worked around where I could lift it one corner at a time. This let her use her hands (and be more safe with me lifting on it) to help me lever it upward.

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I propped one side on the fins, then the other. It weighed a ton.

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But finally it was FREE! All that was left was sliding it down the lever onto the trailer.

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This is where she rested when I gave out. And it's where she'll stay for now.

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I heavily recommend you not do this by yourself. Or at all.
I can't say it enough. I had a lot of close calls, pinned feet and legs, and pinched digits. One slip or shift and I could have ended up with broken bones.

So, lesson learned:

Truck beds are heavy
Sometimes it's good to know people. If you don't know anyone, make your own helpers.
There will come a point in your rebuild that you'll realize you didn't get what you thought you did. It's still what you have though. Enjoy it.

FetchMeAPepsi

July 29th, 2013, 11:29 PM

I forgot to mention these things. They're little blocks located under the wonky bolts under the bed. You know, the ones that are inside the frame. They go on like this and are metal so they'll get a painting.

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Look at how easy access to that rear end is now? I also found some numbers on it after the bed was off. I was looking in the wrong place.

THey're not on the cover at all, they're on the top right side of the axle. It's still a Dana 44 :lolflag:

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To celebrate our little victory and my not losing a limb my redhead sat down and finished our emblems. She said "For $20 bucks each I'd do this all day" so if you guys want 'em done I guess PM me and give her a week. School starts soon and there's alot of touchup.

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The Powder Puff mechanic wanted to whittle. I don't know where she heard it before but I was about her age when my dad taught me. So here she goes. Dull pocket knife and stick in hand.

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And me? Well I got to work putting this together. I wish you guys could smell 'em. :D

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Coming up next I'll probably paint some of those supports I took off. Then on the weekend I'll pull a wheel off and see if I need to order brakes along with the rear end seals.

FetchMeAPepsi

August 11th, 2013, 04:25 AM

A couple of weekends went by. You'd think nothin happened but it did! I fell into a great 175psi 2 stage 80 gallon 220v Porter Cable compressor!

For FREEEEEEEEEE!!!! :egyptian::egyptian::egyptian:
Here it sits next to my 20 gallon noisemaker.

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I just about had a heart attack. So I rushed out and picked it up. I got it home and put on rubber feet (chopped up old Cecilia tires) in the corner. There it sat all week while I ordered the electrical stuff online. We may as well call this post "How to Wire 220 in your house". Here's my shopping list:

1x 10/2 Romex with ground, 50 ft. (or enough to reach the panel if you have to go that far)
2x 4" square box with 1/2" knockouts ($0.99 ea at lowes)
1x 4" square raise plate single hole cover (for receptacle to poke through)
1x 4" square blank plate (to cover the box that will connect to existing wire. Not req'd if panel wired) ($0.91 at lowes)
6x 2 screw romex connectors
1x NEMA L6-30 30 amp twist lock plug (also called a wire cap)
1x NEMA L6-30R twist lock receptacle
8x Big Gray Wire Nuts
1x 8 ft. Gray Electric grade PVC Pipe ($1.99 at Lowes)
1x Gray Pipe 90 Degree Bend with 1/2 inch knockout sized socket (to fit in 4" square box) ($2.64 at Lowes)
4x 3/4" One Hole Straps (for holding the wire to the wall) ($0.98 bag of 4 at Lowes)
1x 3/4 inch hydraulic hose 4ft long with connectors (Tractor Supply or auto store)
1x Electrical Hotstick. I got this fluke brand one here ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ).

I still dont have a few of the cover plates but everything else is here. I was anxious to get started so I got my stuff laid out. I began by putting my boxes together. I knocked out a left, right, and top hole one one box. Then I knocked out only one side hole on the other. Here's how that's done.

Knock on the hole with a hammer or hammer and screwdriver until it's slightly bent.

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Then grab it with your pliers. Wiggle it back and forth till it comes free.

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Now put your Romex connector in the hole and tighten it down.

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Repeat this for every one of the three holes in the box that'll go in the attic. For the box that will be by your compressor (or whatever you're running) you can put the gray 90 degree connector in it if you want but we'll take it back out later. Here's what it kinda will look like.

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Now grab your NEMA plug and the cable coming from your compressor. Mine came with bare wires snipped off. Take the two big screws off of your plug and set the screws and plastic clamps aside. Now poke your cable through the back of the plug. It has a rubber surround that might make this difficult to push but I got it. So can you.

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Strip the wires about 1/4 inch on the ends then poke them into the plug. The black wire goes in the gold screw's slot, the white, yellow, or red (not all three!) will go in the silver screw's slot. The bare or green wire goes in the green screw's slot.

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FetchMeAPepsi

August 11th, 2013, 04:47 AM

Then slide the cover that we slipped on earlier back down over the plug. It has a little bump on the inside so it will only go on one way.

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My wire looked ratty up where it hooked to the compressor itself so I put a romex connector on that too.

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Here's this pic again. I put the plug-in box on the wall about 4 ft off the ground so it would be easy to pull the plug.

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The next thing I did isnt shown. I measured and cut off my electrical PVC, then drilled a 7/8 inch hole with a wood spade bit in my ceiling. Then I crawled up there and poked the end of my 10/2 romex wire down through the hole. I had the Powder Puff grab the end and pull it to the ground. Better to have too much wire than not enough, right?

Then I threaded the wire through the PVC pipe.

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Then I threaded it through the 90 degree waterproof connector. Lid first.

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Now I put the PVC up through the ceiling. Here's a pic of the ceiling, but it looks like the floor. Camera was upside down I think?

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Now for the plug. Heres a little tip. Don't strip your wires sheathing with a razor by pulling it all the way up or down the wire. You might nick the other wires inside! :ahhhh: Instead just use your dykes and snip the sheathing about 1/2 inch deep from the end like this.

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Then just peel it back with your fingers or with a pair of pliers. It peels back easy once you get a slit cut in the front.

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Now put connect your receptacle. Black is "x" or gold screw, white is "y" or silver screw, green is the bare or green wire.

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FetchMeAPepsi

August 11th, 2013, 05:37 AM

Now mash it all back into the box. If you have your square box with the single circular hole cover you can put it on now for a clean look. Mine still isn't here. That looks safe enough for the girls I go out with though. :lolsmack:

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The next part involves many hours in a hot attic. Make sure you have someone to watch you in case you start shooting sparks from your ears.

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In the attic I crawled through the yuk and tacked down my romex with these little plastic clips with nails on them.

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Here's the run. The door shown was my lie-down un-comfy spot.

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Next I found where my oven went down the wall. My oven is one of only a couple of 30 amp breakers in my box so I thought it was a good candidate for a tie-in. I turned my compressor wire 90 degrees when I got even with the oven's location so I could keep the run as straight as possible.

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Here's the compressor wire (orange) next to the oven's wire (black). Now I put my hotstick against the wire and sure enough it is hot. I had the Powder Puff run inside and flip the oven breaker on and off in 5 second intervals. The blinking of my tester was every 5 seconds so I knew it was the right wire AND the right breaker.

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Never trust your breaker box's hand written labels. Always test!

After testing, retesting, and testing my tester, I made my cut. Powder puff was on standby with 911 ready. I don't know what I'm doing, did I mention that?

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I chewed off the sheathing with the dykes.

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Then I cut the wires. I didn't fry so thank goodness for that. I splayed them out and took another 1/4 inch of insulation off the ends.

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I ran them into the box and tightened the clamps on the side. My oven wire was TIGHT. I barely got them into the box. I may never get it tied to the stud behind it.

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I ran the Romex in through the top.

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I then got to wiring. My oven is 4 wire and my compressor is 3 wire so I had to study up on that. My thinking was to just wire the oven back up with wirenuts and put the other wires under the same nuts. The oven wire was so tight that I had to make 6 inch wire bits and tie them to each side. If we call the incoming wire from the breaker the "incoming", the outgoing wire to the oven the "outgoing", and the compressor the "romex", this is how I wired it up.

Incoming white ----> Outgoing white
Incoming ground ----> outgoing ground AND romex ground
Incoming Red ----> Outgoing red AND romex white
Incoming black ----> Outgoing black AND romex black

I did have to trim some of the bottom skirt off of the wire nuts to get them to spin but in the end this is what I finished with. It looks awful.

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When I finished and unwound my poor back muscles, I laid the hotstick in the box o' nuts and had the Powder Puff go QUICKLY flick the breaker on and off. Snip snip! It worked and didn't send me into a fit of fireworks. So I had her try again for a 5 count. Still no sparks or weirdness. So I had her turn it on and leave it. Then I crawled down and tried the oven. It worked! Good start for a newbie, eh?

Finally I put a label on the box so I would know which breaker it uses (or for the next owner) then I plugged it in. I flicked on the compressor.....it roared to life! SUCCESSSSSSS! :champagne:

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I didn't have any more time to play with it tonight but tomorrow I'll pressurize it and test it for leaks and the cutoff. It was past the Powder Puff's bedtime. Poor little girl worked her butt off today with her Daddy. She deserved a story and some snooze time.

WARNING: this is just what I did. You shouldn't do anything with electricity. It can kill you. It probably will. Just call an electrician and don't be a tightwad like me. :goodluck:

WDShaffer

August 11th, 2013, 06:02 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

August 11th, 2013, 05:27 PM

Awesome gift you have there. Now you will be able to use any air-powered tool at your disposla into all hours of the night! :ahhhh:

You will really appreciate the compressor when it comes time for painting--believe me. Congratulations, Fetch! :champagne:

And with 220 that handy, you will now be looking for a 220V mig welder, then a plasma cutter, then...

I'm already looking for a 220 mig welder after that frozen nut ordeal. Feeding the monster! :poke:

For painting I did say earlier that I was going to try it with my 20 gallon single stage to try to make it more budget friendly but now unless someone asks me to paint with it for a detailed post I'm totally going with Big Red here. WHOOSH!!!! To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic?

jbgroby

August 11th, 2013, 09:40 PM

Foley

August 13th, 2013, 05:49 AM

I've done that splice stuff in the attic job before and it's about as much fun as a doe it urself root canal. I'd agree with jbgroby on the size of those junction boxes. It also would be safer if that compressor had it's own dedicated 30 amp circuit but I'm figuring you already checked that out. Just be careful not to run the compressor while the little woman is baking something. I don't know if it would trip the breaker, but it could really heat up those wires sucking that many watts through those wires. And it goes without saying Mr. FMP that having a nice 80 gal unit is a dream come true. Congratulations.

FetchMeAPepsi

August 13th, 2013, 03:14 PM

Fetch,

Not to be picky, but on both of the junction boxes, you have too many connection for the size of box you're using for the one in the attic, are there any electricians on the BB? I know it will be a pain, but you might consider upsizing the box to the next size larger or so. The draw on the wires may cause a heat issue.

The junction box with the orange wire as well is too crowded as well. I've learned a few thing from my electrical studies.

Its already a 4" box and the space is kinda cramped. Would it be OK to do my pigtails on a separate box? Like this:

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I've done that splice stuff in the attic job before and it's about as much fun as a doe it urself root canal. I'd agree with jbgroby on the size of those junction boxes. It also would be safer if that compressor had it's own dedicated 30 amp circuit but I'm figuring you already checked that out. Just be careful not to run the compressor while the little woman is baking something. I don't know if it would trip the breaker, but it could really heat up those wires sucking that many watts through those wires. And it goes without saying Mr. FMP that having a nice 80 gal unit is a dream come true. Congratulations.

Yeah that's going to be a discussion because sometimes while we're outside working the redhead (emblem painter) will surprise us with brownies. I'll have to be careful to let them know when I'm using a tool that is heavy on the air.

FetchMeAPepsi

August 16th, 2013, 04:15 AM

My covers finally came in so I put the round-hole cover on my compressor plugin and my box in the attic. Then I ran the oven AND the compressor at the same time. The breaker didn't trip and the box registered 91 degrees after 20 minutes. I still might run another box up there for safety's sake but it seems ok so that'll be a job for another day.

The compressor plug looks professional though. I'm pretty proud of it :D

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I spent time throwing things away, cleaning out the garage, and watching the kids draw cityscapes on my driveway with chalk. Good times. :bigdance:

After the final sweepup I banged my leg on those fender support rods I mentioned earlier. That was the last straw. I had an hour to kill so I got my 9/16 wrench and my 9/16 socket then spun the rods off right quick. No sweat.
I forgot to take pics though because one of my kids was playing with my phone. Here's a pic of the hole to remember where they go.

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Then I wire-wheeled the dirt and rust off. After that it was off to the paint board. Well, not really. I heard about this really neat stuff called Ospho ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? )that turns rust into a hard black INERT (non reactive) coating. It's great for hard to reach stuff that won't wire-wheel well like my next project.

I sprayed them down with this stuff liberally after wire-wheeling. They'll get another brush-off tomorrow then they'll get coated in bed-liner because they're in a very harsh environment right there by the wheel.

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After that I grabbed my tire mount and started wire-wheeling it. THis is where having the Ospho stuff really came in handy.

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I wired as best I could but there are some very tight corners in here. I couldn't get them as well as I would have liked. So I did the best I could and sprayed this Ospho stuff all over it. It turned out shiny and puurrrrty. The pic on the other hand was blurry as all get-out.

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That's all the time I had today. Next thing will be power-washing all the dirt and rust off the frame and rear end. I took a screwdriver and poked at some of that rear axle dirt today. It is every bit of a quarter inch thick and hard as concrete. I'm not going to try sandblasting through that mess. :ahhhh:

Vernski

August 16th, 2013, 05:57 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

August 16th, 2013, 03:03 PM

Hi Fetch I ran across this thread on the 60's forum thought it might be of interest to you and others over here. It's an air tool that may be better than sand blasting check out the link..Vernski:ahhhh:

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That's pretty neat! I saw it yesterday and ran over to harbor freight and put one in my cart. Ha ha! Great minds think alike! :lolsmack:

I hate videos but I watched that one. This thing is very loud. Im thinkin earplugs would be a good idea with it.

FetchMeAPepsi

August 19th, 2013, 05:14 AM

Saturday The Blonde went shopping with the Powder Puff so I didn't get anything done. Today was a different story. I backed Cecilia out and for a "please" and a "thank-you" I paid two little helpers to spray cleaner all over the frame, rear end, and transfer case.

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Then out came the power washer. The boy wanted a shot with it so I let him try. He did pretty well. He thought it was cool that it was so strong that it blew chunks of dirt off of the transfer case.

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Check out his work on the transfer case. It was a black greasy mess before.

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The rear end cleaned up nice too. I'll be pulling it apart soon and painting it. Dirt wasn't good for the paint.

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While Cecilia dried I painted the bits from last time.

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After that we had time to make a batch of coffee for this month. Yum!

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We capped the day off sitting on the swing and talking about the sunset. I'm not ready for Monday. :noway:

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Vernski

August 20th, 2013, 03:18 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

August 20th, 2013, 05:32 AM

Hi Fetch are you grinding coffee ahead time or just a pot at a time? Just curious witch way and what kind of coffee you were grinding? I'm a coffee nut without a few cups in the morning It's not good to be around me or safe..Vernski:poke:

Me and The Blonde are heavy drinkers too. That pic shows me and The Boy roasting coffee beans. I dont grind till it's time to brew. They're cheaper (scottish tightwad in me again) and I get a kick out of roasting them. It's a good teaching time. I get to roast them how I like them too so thats a bonus.

Dark and smokaaayyy!:guzzle::guzzle::guzzle:

We go through a gallon ziplock bag of Sumatran every month plus a 2 quart tin of "special" roast. Usually some kind of french espresso blend. Yeah, we're dangerous around coffee.

I tease The Blonde that it'll take us two weeks to stop movin once we die just to burn the caffeine off. :scared: She doesnt think Im funny.

Vernski

August 20th, 2013, 06:13 PM

FetchMeAPepsi

August 20th, 2013, 06:32 PM

Fetch never tried roasting the beans, been thinking about giving it a try as I've seen the un-roasted beans for sale. My lady is a Tea person when I say coffee she looks at me like I stepped in something. But that just leaves more for me to enjoy, cause life has it's trade offs..Vernski:egyptian:

Haha! it sure does. You can roast em real easy just get yourself one of those old airpop popcorn poppers (13 bucks at walmart), cut the bottom out of a tin can (to elongate the popper's neck), and buy green beans. They take longer the first pound or so as the popper gets seasoned but after that you get a stuffed gallon bag of beans in about 45 minutes. A tin in about 15 mins.

If you try it let me know how it turned out :yeeuh:
If you need a step by step I'll take pics next time too. Too bad your not closer I'd just show ya over a steaming cup!

Now Im going to pm Jeannie to see if we can have a coffee drinking icon guy :D

FetchMeAPepsi

August 27th, 2013, 10:40 PM

A To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? yeahhhh! Today my needle scaler that Vernski MADE me buy came in.

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I was running around in my undies since the kids are all in school so I couldn't pull the truck out for a real test, but I fired up my ultra-pressor and plugged it in. It's not really as loud as they make out on the youtube videos. You can run it without earplugs in a garage in your underwear. :poke:
But for any long term stuff I'll have ear protection on. And eye protection.
Here's my spot after about 20 seconds.

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That part in the middle that looks like missed paint is shiny metal. I don't knwo why id didnt show up right.

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It's not as fast as sandblasting, but the results are similar. And it's probably better on the lungs. I'll know more next weekend when I can get under there and really get after it.

Vernski

August 28th, 2013, 04:37 AM

I knew you were good for an endorsement Harbor Freight will be pleased..Vernski:goodjob:

FetchMeAPepsi

August 28th, 2013, 11:14 PM

I knew you were good for an endorsement Harbor Freight will be pleased..Vernski:goodjob:

AHHH! I've been manipulated by tha' man! I feel like such a

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Wait, maybe they'll send me money or more tools...Or maybe trade me money for tools. Yeah, this could work out!

Today I got in my order of gear oil for the differentials. I may have mentioned it but I ordered Red Line part number 57904, it's 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil. I ordered 3 quarts since they should take 1.3 quarts each. That'll leave me a little left over for learning and mistake-makin.

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I also got in a set of rear ultra quiet brakes from Wagner. I can't put things on until next weekend but when I get started I gotta get a lot done because its only 4 weekends before I need to put the bed back on. Ive been taking pics of every kiddo on the stepside on their birthday since we got Cecilia and the next birthday is coming up quick! :ahhhh:

FetchMeAPepsi

August 29th, 2013, 08:07 PM

I had to make a run to get some cedar logs for gate posts today with the lil' blonde. It was a good excuse to take Cecilia for a spin on a 30 mile run to see how she did engine-wise.

The engine held up great.....The tranny? Well... We'll get to that.

Things started off smooth. We gassed up with an extra 2 gallons just to be safe.

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On the way, waving and singing

Rollin' down a backwood
Tennessee highway
One arm OWWNNNNN Tha wheel!
Hold my munchkin,
with the other
A sweet soft southern thrill!
Worked hard All Week,
Got a little jingle (ching!)
On a tennessee SAAAAT-ur-dee night!
Couldn't feel better
We're together
With my Dixieeeeeee land Delight!

Those aren't all the right lyrics but we sing funny. Be glad you werent there.

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At the sawmill we met a big longhorn bull. We thought he was a car salesman because as soon as we saw him he started this... :lolsmack:

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Logs loaded, headin back

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Then it happened on this winding stretch with grass so high it was over the roof in some places....SCREEEEEECHHHH!!!!!

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I had just let off the gas a little and the transmission or the transfer case let out a loud squeal like rubbing metal. We were still about 10 miles from the house. We started prayin. :nervous:

When I pressed the gas petal again (put it under load) it stopped altogether. Then it squealed constantly any time I let off the gas to slow down or pushed in the clutch to shift. Anytime the engine wasn't pushing on it the tranny or transfer case was singing it's banshee song. :ahhhh:

I got out at the next stop sign to take a peek but nothing was hanging out, tied up in the axle or looked suspicious so it had to be inside somewhere. I thought maybe squirting the transfer case with all that water under high pressure caused it to suck up water and maybe that was the problem.

We made it home thankfully. i put the baby down for a nap and pulled out the book to see how to drain and refill the fluids right quick.

The manual said "check the fluids. To work on it drain and replace the fluids. See another page:

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that page said "fill to top of filler plug". No help at all!

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I just bought an owners manual and thankfully it told me the capacities, but not the where/how to!

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Grrr :mad:

So I crawled under her and looked. There's too many plugs.
Transfer case:

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Tranny:

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I asked in the transmissions forum. Hopefully someone will have an idea for me.

Vernski

August 29th, 2013, 09:19 PM

GMCDAC

August 30th, 2013, 01:01 AM

On the transfer case I would recommend just draining out your old gear lube and then adding the amount that your specs say and do it slow with those upper plugs out. If you have a lot left when you get to the first plug, plug it and keep addin' the gear lube. The tranny is simple enough but It wouldn't hurt to drain it and refill too If you haven't. You couldn't have gotten any water in them while pressure washing. Even if you did a change of lube would be needed.

I don't think those would squeal like you describe though, it kinda sounds like a throwout bearing might be trying to seize up. That could damage the pressure plate and clutch fork quickly. Another possibility is the pilot bearing, which has to spin when the clutch is pushed in and in either case the tranny has to come out. That one can hurt the input shaft on the tranny. Hope it is an easy fix for you.

Later---DAC

FetchMeAPepsi

August 30th, 2013, 04:59 PM

Looks like your on the right track Pepsi the plug at the lower level is the drain. When empty replace the drain plug leave the top plug out then fill with gear oil till it runs out then replace the plug. Most all trucks and pickups are the same in the way of checking the level of rear,trans or trans-case. In finding what is making the noise take off the drive shaft. Run the engine with the transmission in gear and that being a 4 wheel take the front shaft off also. that should tell you where the noise is coming from. It is possible it could be a U joint but I don't think so. The process of elimination as simple as it gets. Hey that Red Line gear oil is good stuff the fleet I drove for used it in all there trucks. Good luck on the problem..Vernski:goodluck:

Thanks Vernski. Do you mean the transmission plugs are labeled right? The transfer case has two "upper" plugs, one way higher than the other. Not sure which one it should be.

Common sense says more oil is good so Im thinking its the top one way up by the bottom of the cab but it could be splash lubed I guess? 4wd isnt really documented much that I can see anyway. At least not till this build is complete haha!

On the transfer case I would recommend just draining out your old gear lube and then adding the amount that your specs say and do it slow with those upper plugs out. If you have a lot left when you get to the first plug, plug it and keep addin' the gear lube. The tranny is simple enough but It wouldn't hurt to drain it and refill too If you haven't. You couldn't have gotten any water in them while pressure washing. Even if you did a change of lube would be needed.

I don't think those would squeal like you describe though, it kinda sounds like a throwout bearing might be trying to seize up. That could damage the pressure plate and clutch fork quickly. Another possibility is the pilot bearing, which has to spin when the clutch is pushed in and in either case the tranny has to come out. That one can hurt the input shaft on the tranny. Hope it is an easy fix for you.

Later---DAC

I was planning on doing the fluid chances as I moved up the drive train bit by bit. I wanted to pull them out and re-do all of their seals. My oil pan leaks almost as bad as the rear end. This might force my hand on the trans though. :(

Which part is the throwout bearing? I took pics here for raycow and I saw a fork and a spinny metal sleeve. Everything else is covered by a big metal (cast iron?) circular thing. Do I need to try to take that off too?

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Thanks for the help guys. Any newbies reading this pay attention! Best club ever. :yourock:

tommyduncan

August 30th, 2013, 06:25 PM

FetchMeAPepsi

September 3rd, 2013, 04:24 AM

The throwout bearing is the spinny sleeve thing. The pilot bearing is in the end of the crankshaft.
I'm not sure what the upper bolt is on the transfer case but I doubt it is a fill hole. It could be an inspection hole or an optional place for a vent tube if it was used in other vehicles?

The upper bolt "hole" turned out to be a linkage shaft covered in grime. Tasty! :lolflag:

This weekend I took off to the Blonde's parent's place for what I thought would be some fishin and heavy duty BBQ. Instead I was surprised with this bunch o goodies. I can never tell if her dad can stand me (I stink at reading people) so little things like this really make my day.

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If any of you guys have sons-in-law that you care about do something nice for them. It really makes a lasting impression.

As an encore he welded my stepside brace where my bolts broke off. We found 1/2 inch bolts that were almost exactly like the originals. Tack, tack. The nuts attached.

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Back at the house I turned my attention back to the tranny. The spring I found was some kind of fork return spring for the shifter fork. I hooked it back up like this but it still made that awful skreeching noise.

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The transmission cover plate was filthy and grimy with some kind of oil or grease so I put it in a bucket and poured my carb cleaner jug into it. Then I wiped it down with the fluid until it started coming clean.

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Start to finish was around 10 minutes.

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Now that it was clean I could see it had a big dent about the circumference of a finger in the front of the pan. I thought it might be a good opportunity to try my hand at smoothing out a dent. Here's the original dent. It's on the ridge to the left of the blue hammer handle in the pic.

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I lightly scuffed it with sandpaper to better see where it was high and low. Then I banged on it with the pointy end of the Eastwood body hammer I mentioned earlier in the thread. I used the one that is the pointiest like an old kindergartener's pencil.

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I alternated between banging on the dent using just a little more than the weight of the hammer and lightly sanding the other side to check the progress. After 20 minutes I had this:

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Not too shabby right? I was giggling like a school girl. I must have been too loud though because the Redhead came out grumbling about all the banging noise. So I told her I was done and had to wire wheel this cover. She halfway showed some interest in trying it.

5 minutes later she was hooked.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 3rd, 2013, 04:39 AM

It took her about 20 minutes of wheeling to get this. :woowoo:

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Meanwhile I ran my new grinder with my compressor on the welds. Followed by a wire wheel and some Ospho spray.

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Then I sprayed her cover with bedliner like everything else that lives under the truck.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 3rd, 2013, 05:06 AM

And that was the end of my procrastination. I tried driving Cecilia with the spring back in place. It didn't help. I had the Redhead listen as I drove slowly past so she could hear the squeak. It was coming from up under the cab so that meant the transmission and not the transfer case. I'm not sure yet if that's good news.

I rolled up the sleeves on my sleeveless shirt and got started. I used a 5/8 inch wrench and drained the oil into a pan. It was a pretty good amount but it smelled like butt.

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Next I started to remove the linkage. The little cotter pins didn't budge. They're really frozen in there. So I removed the bolts instead. They're 9/16".
As I took them off the Redhead wheeled them too. I've created a monster.

Bolts out, I had to tickle them with a hammer to get the brackets off the pins. Then I labeled them for reconnecting.

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Moving rearward the next connection was the 4WD shifter. I pulled the two bolts off of the tailshaft on the tranny to get that free.

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Finally I thought I'd need to pull off the little mini drive shaft between the transmission and the Rockwell T221 transfer case. I found four bolts on the end of the driveshaft by the transfer case. They were 1/2 inch. I worked all four of them off but the thing didn't budge.

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So what could I do? It practically begged me to hammer on it. Who am I to disappoint? I hammered on it a little then I would switch off to prying on it with a big honking screwdriver. Finally I got it to slip out of one side. From there I worked it free of the other then banged the little U-bolts out with a hammer. Watch out, it'll fall on you if you're not careful.

Once its free you just have to pull it out of the tailshaft and it comes free.

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I dont know if it matters but I marked the shaft and connections so I could put it right back where it came from in the same position. I'll clean it up and paint it with bedliner too.

The only things left are a few bolts at the front of the transmission. These crossmember bolts and maybe some on the flywheel.

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I don't want to take a bolt off and have 40 springs pop out everywhere so I asked on the transmission forum what to do next.

FetchMeAPepsi

September 5th, 2013, 06:13 PM

The next six bolts have been keeping me up at night. I worry that it'll fall out on me and crush me like a grape, lol.

I sneaked out there today like a super ninja. A super ninja that wears jorts and a dirty tshirt.

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Yeah I'm smokin off the clock. Lock up the wimmings :lolsmack:
So I sneaked under there while the baby was down for a nap. I only had 2 hours for unbolting, cleaning up, and taking a shower before she woke up so I was in a bit of a rush. I started with putting a vice grip on the 4wd shifter because it kept falling on me.

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Then I put a jack stand under the flywheel. I later found out that this is not a great idea. Instead I should have put a jack under the back of the engine and raised it up just barely 1/8 inch to take pressure off of the motor mounts after the tranny is removed.

Also the flywheel MOVES! Who'da thunk that? If it fell on a jackstand it'd probably just roll off and chase me down the street.

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There was a little tab on the crossmember (big steel platform under the transmission) beside each bolt. I bent it away with a screwdriver. I think its there to keep the bolt from backing out.

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Then I grabbed a 3/4 inch socket and BZZZT! Out they both came. Easy as pie. I moved up to the transmission bolts now. The top ones are facing the rear of the vehicle, the bottom ones are buried behind the bellhousing. Seems intentionally evil to me. Today I took the top bolts out and left the bottom ones in.

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Next thing I'll do is put a jack under the transmission to hold it up and remove those two bottom bolts. Then wheel the whole she-bang out for cleanup and inspection.