Another run at removing bondo and primer

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Winter seems to not know c'mere from sic'em this season so I thought I might take another shot at removing more primer and bondo. I thought I might use a polishing pad for some of the more stubborn epoxy-like bits of primer. Something super fine grit that would be easy to stop before it tore up my original paint.

But there seems to be a lot of polishing pad options. Do any of you guys use them? can you recommend one for very light sanding through the primer to the original paint or should I just use sandpaper on a DA sander?


http://www.sandblastingsand.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Sandblasting-sand.jpg

[Vernski]

Winter seems to not know c'mere from sic'em this season so I thought I might take another shot at removing more primer and bondo. I thought I might use a polishing pad for some of the more stubborn epoxy-like bits of primer. Something super fine grit that would be easy to stop before it tore up my original paint.

But there seems to be a lot of polishing pad options. Do any of you guys use them? can you recommend one for very light sanding through the primer to the original paint or should I just use sandpaper on a DA sander?


[QUOTE]
Hi Pepsi I have not tried this it's called clay bar lube, I have tried rubbing and polishing compound but just in small area's. I found this link for the clay bar anyway you do it will take lot's of elbow grease good luck...Vernski:lolflag:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5165189_remove-primer-auto-paint.html

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Hey vernski! I did try the clay bar stuff last summer but I got no results with it. I think it's more for shining up paint whorls and stuff? I will say the stuff doesn't dry out. I gave it to the babies to play with and they're still building sharks and little army men with it :lolsmack:

Maybe I'll just try some really high grit sandpaper and soapy water. I just dread having bondo rivers running through the yard :headscratch:

[WDShaffer]

Clay bar is used for cleaning good paint to avoid polishing.
You are trying to remove layers of paint and maybe filler to reveal the original paint. That is gonna be tough. To get filler to stick, a coarse sandpaper or grinding disc should have been used.
Unless the current paint job is a rattle can special and no filler, your not going to have perfect original paint under there. The polished patina look is popular, so a coarse cutting compound and then polish will give an interesting result.
Using any sandpaper over 1,000 grit will let you slowly cut through the paint, but the metal will have highs and lows, so will the paint...leaving anything from raw metal to the current paint job as the final result.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Clay bar is used for cleaning good paint to avoid polishing.
You are trying to remove layers of paint and maybe filler to reveal the original paint. That is gonna be tough. To get filler to stick, a coarse sandpaper or grinding disc should have been used.
Unless the current paint job is a rattle can special and no filler, your not going to have perfect original paint under there. The polished patina look is popular, so a coarse cutting compound and then polish will give an interesting result.
Using any sandpaper over 1000 grit will let you slowly cut through the paint, but the metal will have highs and lows, so will the paint...leaving anything from raw metal to the current paint job as the final result.

Heh, I saw the previous 400 and started an experiment. :teehee:

I blew away almost all of the rattle can primer with the power washer and Super Clean last summer. What's left is some thick, chalky stuff and bondo.


For my test I got out my step and brought it inside where it's nice and warm. The players are this semi-painted step and some 400 grit Durablock sandpaper that plugged up too fast to make me happy. Felt I was wasting it.

http://windypix.com/?dm=KN6C.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=KN6C)
http://windypix.com/?dm=0Q7K.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=0Q7K)





Here's my target area.

http://windypix.com/?dm=JQH8.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=JQH8)





And after about 5 minutes of gentle sanding and wiping

http://windypix.com/?dm=Z3HH.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=Z3HH)





And after 25 minutes...The long blue rib in the middle by the screw hole and the one below that is where I sanded.

http://windypix.com/?dm=45R8.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=45R8)





The sanding went ok. It's tedious in the cracks and I obviously got through the primer and into the metal in a few corners. Some places had no blue or black at all, they just went from gray primer to rust to metal.

Looking at my progress I think it would take 3 hours or so to do the whole step. :poke:

[WDShaffer]

Like I said, you will have a unique weathered look.
I understand boiled linseed oil helps minimize rust on the bare metal very well, and cleans up easy before any painting. (I usually seal my work right away, so I've never used boiled linseed oil.)
Wet sanding (yep using water) keeps wet/dry sandpaper unclogged until it is dull.