1961 GMC 4000 Rescue and repair

[Crosshairs6]

I watched this truck sit on the side of the road for years trying to get the older gentleman to sell it to me. He finally did sell me the truck and I am happy to have it at my place. This is what the truck looked like when I found it parked on the side of the road.






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[Crosshairs6]

Here is the truck after towing it back home. I now have the truck under the awning of my shop and began the repairs this past weekend.

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[Crosshairs6]

I removed about a pound of unnecessary wiring and removed the bench seat and fuel tank. I will send the fuel tank out the be stripped and lined before I put it back in the truck. I also plan to remove all the propane attachments. The propane fuel system was put on after the original owner bought the truck. Everything was pretty loose to say the least.

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[Crosshairs6]

Here is a picture of the 305B V6. As big as the engine is there is still a lot of room under the hood. I do love these old trucks!

Spark plugs, plug wires and the battery had to be replaced. The motor would turn over but would not start. I am optimistic she will run once I get the basics back in order.

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[Crosshairs6]

Another view from the rear of the truck. That is my John Deere 4020 tractor in the background. Another sunset in Texas. The wood on the bed will be replaced as well.

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[Standrom]

Good looking old truck.

[6066gmcguy]

Mice to see another of the big GMCs getting Rescued.

[Crosshairs6]

Today it rained pretty good here in the Dallas area so work was cancelled. No interest in being in a crane when lightning is striking everywhere.

I took the day to take the gas tank to the radiator shop and I was told it should be ready by Friday. They will acid bath and seal the inside of the tank. The fuel residue in that tank is like syrup right now. I still have to get a new sending unit for the tank so getting to start the truck this weekend maybe a bit optimistic.

I did pick up a new fuel pump, fuel line, spark plug wires and a new gas cap today from NAPA. I took the propane mixer off the top of the carburetor. Special thanks to Cayoterun for his time on the phone explaining to me what to expect with the disassembly and the "in's and out's" of the propane system. I installed the new fuel pump today as well. I did not remove but I did clean up the Zenith carburetor so I could read any information stamped on it. I should get all the plug wires installed tomorrow evening.

Any pointers of how to clean out steel fuel lines would be appreciated. The short steel fuel line from the tank to under the cab is easy to clean out with diesel. The long steel gas line from the fuel filter on the frame to the fuel pump is a different story. Again, any incite would be appreciated. As I said, the fuel residue in the fuel line now is like the tank. It's all like syrup.

The last years the truck was running was on propane. I am hoping the transition back to gasoline is smooth.


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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Subscribed! That's a good story on how you got her. (him?) That's exactly how I got Cecilia too, just pestering an old farmer that wanted someone to appreciate her.

Now he/she needs a name :thumbsup:

So about the gas lines, my neighbor has the same problem with an old ferd mustang. I'm going to help him flush them out by filling them up with carb cleaner, let it sit overnight, then blow them out with a compressor.

If you have money coming out of your ears you can just replace them. Its easier, but it adds cost to the build. I hate spending money lol.

:goodluck:

[dthela]

Just replace the fuel lines!!!!!!!

[Crosshairs6]

I pulled off the gasoline fuel lines starting from the tank behind the seat to the carburetor. The steel fuel lines I have cleaned and look pretty good. The rubber fuel line with 3/8" fittings that runs over the frame rail under the cab has to be replaced. I ordered that section of the fuel line from NAPA and will pick it up tomorrow with the fuel tank from the radiator shop. I will also pickup the grommet that wraps around the fuel tank fill spout that comes out next to the drivers side door. That had to be delivered from the east coast according to parts GURU'S at NAPA. She is coming together with parts so hopefully I will get the chance to start her this weekend.

After I get her running, then stripping all the wood off the bed then working on the brakes. Stripping the wood will make it easier if I have to change out the brake lines. Speaking of brakes, has anyone upgraded a truck like this to all around disk brakes? If so, where do you buy the kit to do that? As much as I want her to run, I want this huge girl to STOP! I will post more pictures tomorrow. Thanks for all the comments. I have received some good information since I started this project.

[Cayoterun]

Don't overlook the obvious when you reinstall the gas carb. Eliminate the off/on gas line solenoid. Without hot wire activated, it stays in the off position. Back to gas all the time, it no longer serves any purpose.

Cayoterun

[Crosshairs6]

Went to pickup the gas tank that had been soaking in a chemical bath since Monday. The only thing keeping that tank from leaking was the sludge in the tank. After the bath, the tank had about 15 holes in it.

Obviously there will be no starting of the truck this weekend.

So I got online and found a brand new replacement tank with a sending unit and should have them here by Thursday of next week. The tank is also lined so I should not have any problems. I will shoot pictures when the new tank is delivered new week.

[Crosshairs6]

New tank arrived with sending unit and stainless steel screws. I checked over the tank for any issues and it all looked good. Packaging was really good. The sending unit with screws came in a separate box.

Here is a picture of the tank. Do not forget to place the gasket first before installing the sending unit. Install the float first when installing the sending unit. I laid the tank down on a piece of the notched packing cardboard to hold the tank steady and let the sending unit hang freely in the tank while I tightened the screws on the sending unit.

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[Crosshairs6]

Next I cut some cardboard strip from the fuel tank packing to run under the straps that hold the fuel tank in place. It all went together pretty easy. Remember that the fuel tank neck extension that comes out next to the drivers side door has to be installed.
I strapped the tank down the same as it was removed. Tank fit perfectly. I connected the power wire to the connection by the drivers side door and the ground wire to the cab over the tank.

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[Crosshairs6]

Tomorrow I will install the steel fuel lines with new fuel filter. I have the fuel filter canister soaking in diesel. All will be cleaned up good and I will finish the fuel system overhaul. I have new plug wires and a new coil as well. With any luck, I will have the old girl running tomorrow.

Many thanks to Cayoterun for locating me a breather (air cleaner) for the truck. I received a message this evening that he shipped the breathers (2 air cleaners) out to me today. One is and oil bath type and the other is a filter type. When I removed the propane system from the truck, the air cleaner was part of the propane assembly.

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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Those oil bath cleaners are awesome. I have a paper and an oil, and the paper sits in the cabinet collecting dust while the oil...oh wait. I guess they both collect dust :D
Anyway, the fact that I never have to spend another $15.00 on a piece of paper really makes me happy.

Can't wait to see you driving! :3gears:

[GMCNUT]

man o man - what part of the United States do you have to live in to see something this cool and solid just sitting by the road....geez

PS - top money will be paid to anyone who can turn me onto a set of 60-63 solid doors like this truck has :)

[Crosshairs6]

GMC Nut,
I will look for you a set of doors like what is on my truck. I may know where to find them.

[Crosshairs6]

I have the entire fuel system back in the truck and fuel is running great to the carburetor. I put 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. No leaks anywhere with the fuel lines and the gas gauge is working perfectly. I put the new plug wires and coil on today which I purchased from NAPA. I cleaned out the ignition wiring connector on the firewall with compressed air and contact cleaner after using a wire brush on the contacts. I traced the wires from the distributor and all connections look good.
I replaced the battery terminal connectors as well. I tried to start the truck this evening and I am not getting any spark at all. I assume it's the distributor (points) that are bad. I have been reading some of the posts from "Ray" regarding troubleshooting the ignition. I will try this again tomorrow. I do believe I will upgrade the points to the Pertronix ignition setup. I have also talked to Cayoterun regarding this upgrade. I would like to get the truck running with what I have now if possible. I will know more after tomorrow.

I also need to do a compression test on the engine. That is a gauge I do NOT have so I will be looking for that as well tomorrow.

Thanks for all the messages I received regarding the truck. It is just a matter if time before I have her back on the road. Thanks to all the experts on this site whose posts I have read to get me this far. More to follow!

[GMCNUT]

GMC Nut,
I will look for you a set of doors like what is on my truck. I may know where to find them.

thanks Crosshair - just PM me if you find some nice solid ones like yours....

[Crosshairs6]

Ok members.
I have been off-line for some time now with work as well as dealing with an injury. Also, I bought a new place in the northwest and I'm in the process of moving. I still have the truck and most certainly will finish my project. Sometimes, life gets in the way.
Thanks for all the email comments and advice I have received. More to follow after the move is complete.
S/F,
Crosshairs6

[Denny]

Great looking truck, looking forward to more. I'm a '60 as well, thanks.

[Crosshairs6]

Back online and working on the 1961 GMC 4000. Pulled the carburetor off to rebuild. The carburetor kit from NAPA did not come with enough gaskets so I am waiting on more gaskets to come in the mail.

[Crosshairs6]

Started taking off the old wood from the flatbed. I've never seen 2X6 tongue and groove till yesterday removing the bed. There was about 30 pounds of caulk removed as well.

[Crosshairs6]

Zenith model 28 Carburetor rebuilt. Still waiting on gaskets.

[Crosshairs6]

Pulled out center floor-pan today. Great access to linkage and emergency brake. Removed a lot of gunk and emergency brake works great now. I'm thinking I need a new master cylinder but I am having problems locating the specific model with the brake line coming off the front of the master cylinder. There is a lot of surface rust but the truck is solid.

[Crosshairs6]

The carburetor gaskets did not come in the mail today. I focused on removing the Fontaine bed.

[Crosshairs6]

Cross-members on the Fontaine bed are cracked in too many places to count. I will have to cut it all out and weld in new C-channel.

[Crosshairs6]

I didn't realize how much the drive shaft is offset until I removed the truck bed.

[Crosshairs6]

Everything looks pretty good considering. The wiring on the bed lights and tail lights is a mess.

[Crosshairs6]

Replacing all brake wheel cylinders. Note: There are 3 screws that hold on the brake drum on the GMC 4000. I did not see that in the maintenance manual.
I will be power-washing out all the wheel wells and frame rails once brakes are complete.

[Crosshairs6]

Waiting of brake shoes and wheel cylinders. Parts should be in tomorrow. Looking at the steering shaft, the boots need to be replaced. Obviously everything with the steering shaft needs to be power washed and greased. That said, I have not found any of the boots online specifically for a GMC 4000. I tried NAPA today and they don't list a GMC 4000 in their system. I figure boots for a different model truck will work but any ideas on where to source them would be appreciated.

[Crosshairs6]

Still waiting on parts. I had to rebuild the carburetor on my Honda power-washer to blast the truck. I also took time today to clean up the bench seat. The seat cleaned up pretty nice being all original upholstery.

[BillT]

Good looking truck.

Nice improvements.

[Crosshairs6]

New master cylinder arrived and will be installed over the weekend. New master cylinder being installed ended up being the part number was for a 1961 C80 truck. The master cylinder has a brake line coming off the front of the reservoir.

[Crosshairs6]

Pulled out clutch slave cylinder today. No wonder the clutch would not actuate. The slave cylinder was completely rotted out on the inside. New part ordered from NAPA today and I will pickup in the morning.

[Crosshairs6]

I picked up the floor plates from powder coat today. I plan to media blast the entire cab but for now I wanted these coated.

[Crosshairs6]

New jack stands delivered as well. These are 10-ton stands that are obviously overkill but I need the height to reach the frame rails. Go big or go home right!

[Crosshairs6]

Floor plates before powder coating.

[snazzypig]

Nice work you're doing! The jack stands look great and well suited for the job--I'd rather have overkill any day when your safety is on the line.

[Crosshairs6]

I hear ya regarding safety. These tall trucks were designed to use bottle jacks as well. These days, everyone including me have floor jacks. You truly have to have a monster floor jack to reach a frame rail that is 30 inches off the ground. I now have a tall bottle jack on order. I also bought aftermarket wheels that will be in on Tuesday. Getting rid of the widow-maker split rims.

[Crosshairs6]

Lower Steering shaft removal. I have the maintenance manual for my truck but it doesn't cover much detail for the GMC 4000. I can't figure out how to get the lower steering shaft out. Do I have to loosen and lift up on the steering column to get this section out? As you can see in the pictures, I have to service this section and replace the rubber boots covering the joints so I have to get this section out. Thanks for any information. Hopefully, someone here has done this before.

[Funky61]

Crosshairs;
I don't have a 4000 but I did read through the manual and it's not very clear to me either. It does mention removing the plate floor panel screws for access to a yoke shaft center cross.
That was in Section 16. page 596 under shaft removal in the X-6023 factory manual. Is that the manual you are using?

I hope someone who works on the bigger trucks will chime in for you.

Henry :goodluck:

[Crosshairs6]

Henry,
Yes, that's the manual I have as well. The steering shaft on my truck in in the driver's side wheel well as in the pictures as posted. I don't have to remove to floor panel to get to it. Reading on page 594, it specifies loosening bolts on the shaft and tapping on the bottom half of the lower coupling. I have done that and the shaft moves up, but enough to remove.

[Crosshairs6]

That said, I figured I would post pictures of the new wheels and tires that arrived today.
I bought these tires and wheels (22.5x6.75 White Steel 10x8.75" (Old Chevy 2 Ton Trucks) as replacements for the original split-rim widow-maker wheels. In the pictures, I still have the driver's side up on jack-stands as I am working on the steering shaft. The wheels fit great and putting a tape measure on them, that are not as high and the original wheel/tire combination. I wanted 22.5 inch rims for ease in buying tires. I look at it as money well spent.
I mounted a tire just to measure and check steering clearance. It's all good. I don't want to make a habit of taking these tires off as they are heavy.

[BobBray]

I like those wheels, and going 22.5" is a wise move. Have you found the parts needed to restore your steering shaft? If you have trouble, you might want to consider fabbing up a new shaft with Borgeson parts. Those are what the custom/race car builders use. Many size shafts and joints are available through Summit Racing:

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[Crosshairs6]

Thanks BobBray,
Yes, I like the new wheels a lot better on this big truck.
I appreciate the information on the updated steering parts. I will look at them for sure. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the old steering shaft out without having to pull the steering column.

[Crosshairs6]

Finally got the steering column lower shaft out today. It was froze in there pretty good. Now if the dust boots I ordered are delivered soon, I could get it all back together.