1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Glad I could help! Heres some red dots where your mounts might be if they're like mine. Look underneath the bed and youll see big hairy bolts running thru the frame. I took pics when I took them off the first time but looking back they didnt show too much. SOrry about that. I'll do it again when I take it off this next time.

[GMCDAC]

Hey Fetch, I will get pics of those brackets as soon as I won't get frostbite taking them!

Yes that is what I need to do with the belts in the '55 build a plate or strap to spread the support further around the floor board rather than relying on washers. Since I used different seats I had to build a completely different tilt mechanism for the passenger side seat in my '70 Jimmy. That required some floor reinforcement too.

Seat belts can go bad with time, as the webbing and the stitching can deteriorate through the years. In racing, even at a local level you must replace all your belts every 2 years and some tracks are every year. If they were in a hard wreck re-using them is prohibited too. I've got a pile of out dated racing belts laying around here, no idea why---------.

I haven't had time to update my truck thread but since we talked about it here I will throw in a pic of the belts as I found them in my '55 when I pulled the front seat for the first time. The year is visible on the closest one.

DAC

[GMCDAC]

Hello again Fetch,
Took a few minutes to get the pics of bumper brackets. They are 1/4" plate. I have to go right away, we are under a blizzard warning for tonight with power outages possible. I better get flashlights ready and ipods charged. Better fuel and pump up the coleman lantern and stove too! I was without power 27 hours in the Oct. 4th and 5th Blizzard.

DAC

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by GMCDAC

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Hello again Fetch,
Took a few minutes to get the pics of bumper brackets. They are 1/4" plate. I have to go right away, we are under a blizzard warning for tonight with power outages possible. I better get flashlights ready and ipods charged. Better fuel and pump up the coleman lantern and stove too! I was without power 27 hours in the Oct. 4th and 5th Blizzard.

DAC

Thanks for the pics Dac! That makes it clear as day. I could probably build my own brackets and bolt them up with those measurements. I'm not entirely sure I want to tear it off, but if I do it'll be this summer. I'd really like to get everything mechanical fixed this summer and have nothing left over winter but paint. Lets see how we do, life has a way of getting all sideways

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[FetchMeAPepsi]

I dont remember if I mentioned it but my hub has the squeaky butt going on somewhere. I left the hubs locked all fall and winter (dunno if that matters) but when I noticed the sound I unlocked them. Poof - no more squeak. So I figured it's time for a hub rebuild.

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Time out - Remember we dropped the transfer case a while back? You're probably wondering what happened to that. Nothing! I filled it back with oil and bolted it back in so I could use Cecilia for making a few haul trips. We will get back to the Timkin (Rockwell) T221, I promise!

Like many of my cells, my brain knows nothing about 4 wheel drive. There's not a lot of info out there either for 1960, 1961, or 1962 GMC trucks. In 1963 the hubs changed to a better kind with an addition of self adjusting brakes. I don't know what else is better exactly, just that they are. To tell if you have the older hubs take your wheel off and measure your hub from the brake cover to the end of the hub. If it's about 5 1/2 inches long then you have the old style hubs. If it's exactly 5 inches you have the new style.



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Now for information time. This is everything I found about these Power Train Tools branded hubs:

• My hubs are a Selectro clone, called Power Train Tools.
• They've been called Sears brand and Dualamatic as well.
• They were OEM from many vehicles for years.
• They were used on Military vehicles.
• They were manufactured by Husky up until they were bought out by MileMarker and then the quality fell off.
• If you have a model before about 1973 then they're great and strong enough for rock climbing.
• They're hard to turn to "free" when they get bound up with road gunk. I turn mine with a rubber pipe turning thingy like this.
  
  
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• To unlock or lock you turn the entire outside knob. This is designed to make it easy to use with gloves.
• It also keeps them from getting snow and mud inside a selector knob.
• All you should have to do with the locking hubs is completely disassemble, clean, re-grease and reassemble unless they're broken.
• Parts are a bit tough for the early 60s 4x4s.
• Bearings and seals are no problem at all (we'll get to part numbers in a bit)
• Locking hubs are still available that will fit if these hubs if they are beyond repair.
• The earlier 60s used a different style front brake backing plate until about 63. The first design had brake shoe adjusting cam for each shoe. The later versions have the self adjusting brakes.
• Parts are available for both.
• Knuckle bearings and seals are also still available, so that's no problem. (I still dont know what a knuckle bearing is
  
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  )
• The one thing that is tough to find is the shim for the upper steering arm on the drivers side knuckle.
• Leave the steering arm attached as studs for it are tough to find.
• Just take the lower king pin off and removed the knuckle that way.
• Also shim the pre-load for the knuckle during assembly from the bottom king pin only. It works out just fine that way.
• You can get a lot of the parts for the earlier brake styles from a Willys Jeep supplier of all places as most of the stuff was the same.
• Spindles are getting tough to find
• Early style hubs are scarce, but the later ones that are intended for the self adjusting style backing plate are still out there.
• So long as your bearing races are loose in the hub or spin, they should be useable.

(special thanks to Jonathan for about half of that list!)

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Now that you know so much you had to tape your head together, lets get to the meat and pa'taters of the deal.

Grab your trusty 4 way and just break the lug nuts loose.



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DO NOT take them off or your truck will stomp your toes.



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Then jack up your axle. This probably isn't the best place to put the jack, but it's where I always do.



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If your arms get tired hire some neighborhood kids to jack it up for you. Kids are lazy these days and need to be reminded what a hard day's work looks like!

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Once it's jacked up put it on jack stands for safety. Jacks can and do fail often! They're only a little oil and a valve. Valves break!

Now run your lug nuts all the way off and put them somewhere safe. Slip the wheel off and set it against a fence.



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If you don't have a fence, build one and set it against it.

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Fences are known for their almost gravitational tire holding ability. Anything else is just a light.


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Next (on mine) are three screws and three allen wrench bolts. (Allen bolts?)
Take those out. The allen wrench needs to be 1/8".



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Then slip a flathead screwdriver between the plastic and the metal then STOP. Put your hand over the plastic now or you'll be sorry.
Holding it? Good. Now go ahead and give it a gently pry.



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It'll pop right off into your hand. Or your lap. Or the street next door.

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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Here's what mine looked like on the inside. I don't know what I expected, ground metal maybe?



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Now grab this around-y part and pull on it. It all comes out.



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Then drop it all in the dirt.



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No, don't do that. The grease on here is really water resistant and simple soap and water doesn't work for cleaning it. I knocked the big rocks off and put it in my carb cleaner overnight.



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[BarryGMC]

Good news that selectro looks good. These are really good hubs actually. Everyone in 67-72 land wants the blue knob spicers but the selectros and warns are better. Squeaks in 4x4 won't be in the hubs. The hubs lock the axle to the wheel hub. Kind of like a switch. On off. The sound usually come from the outer axle inner bearing or the axle joint. So dig deeper and you will find it. Btw I like these old selectros because when it 20 below you can actually engage them with a glove on. Barry

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by BarryGMC

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Good news that selectro looks good. These are really good hubs actually. Everyone in 67-72 land wants the blue knob spicers but the selectros and warns are better. Squeaks in 4x4 won't be in the hubs. The hubs lock the axle to the wheel hub. Kind of like a switch. On off. The sound usually come from the outer axle inner bearing or the axle joint. So dig deeper and you will find it. Btw I like these old selectros because when it 20 below you can actually engage them with a glove on. Barry

That's what I thought when I saw them. They're still toothy and I think that's about all they need to be good. They do have too much grease on them from what I'm reading though. Some people just put a little 10w90 Penzoil on them and call it good, but I think they get in there 2x a year and re-oil them. I don't really want to have to do that so I'll re-grease them with just a smidge of grease to keep them from rusting I think.





My next step it to clean off the "Steering Knuckle". It sounds like something you'd see on a robot. I don't know what that is so I googled it and got a bunch of pictures that didn't help at all. WHere would this even go?



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On the second page I ran across this and it made more sense.



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Knuckle = bendable part, steering = well you probably know what that is because you can't drive without it. So its the bendable part that connects to the steering. Bendable might not be right, more like "jointed".

Either way mine's coated in 50 years of road grime and rat poop.

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That makes my next step Poop Removal. And a big ol THANK YOU to Vernski for the hand with that. If you remember way back on (insert page number here) he suggested a $30.00 tool for removing dirt and yucky stuff. It hooks to your compressor and kinda works like one of these



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It's called a Scaler. It looks like this:



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You can still get them at harbor freight for about 55.00. They make quick work of any caked on mud or grime. Just make sure to use them without pressing too hard if you're cleaning something delicate. They hammer the crap out of things to clean them.

[BarryGMC]

The wheel spindle bushing and the u joint are what you need to look at.