Re: correct V6 temp sending unit KEM TW7
 

The WT203 is listed by O'Reilly's as for 1961-1965 305 motor among other years. There is a WT203Z, you don't want that. The only way to sleep at night is to test sender in a pot of water while hooked to gauge and using a good thermometer in the water. Mark down where needle is at each temp. You have to rig it all up with 12V to gauge and the grounds and sender wire. I've done it several times. Otherwise you will chase this overheating problem for weeks. You have to know if it is really overheating first before changing fans, new rad, etc. You could have a bad gauge or sender or wires or ground. You can use a 12V battery charger to supply power to gauge. Put a fuse inline. Sometimes folks use mix and match senders and gauges, no good.
Also gauges can have different values for C N H. If your gauge hovers at between N and H it could be quite normal depending on what H is. 210, 220. 230, 250 deg..... and depending on what the correct operating temp is for your motor, your condition of radiator, outside temperature, thermostat condition/setting, fan, fan shroud, water pump efficiency and so on. SO finding out that the system that you are monitoring all that with, is correct, or known, is extremely important. The only way to access the operating condition of sender and gauge, and how they work together, is with a hot water pan test. Submerge threaded end with ground cable attached into boiling water. Don't let top get wet. You can test with an ohmmeter if you are really, really sure of specs. Said to be about 80 ohms at 212 deg. You can use an infrared thermometer with unit still in truck and point it at various points on motor and radiator in/out, T-Stat housing, hoses, etc, including where sender is mounted. Basically if a gauge never actually hits H, you are OK. If you don't boil over or loose water, you should be OK. These are just rules of thumb, you need to test if you think it's running real hot all the time.
You can leave the gauge in the dash if you can rig up a container of water for the removed sender. You can wire jumpers to reach sender top and threads. Camp stove, coffee cup coil.... Bar-B-Q :bigyikes:

Sender should not touch bottom of a metal pan while testing.
Simple gauge test: KEY ON, take off sender wire from sender, gauge should read C, touch that wire to engine ground, gauge should read H.

Re: correct V6 temp sending unit KEM TW7
 

I would HIGHLY recommend having a "No-Contact Infrared Point And Shoot Thermometer" in your toolbox. They range in price from low $20s to $75 on the ones you can calibrate.

You aim the meter at the radiator intake, pull the trigger, a red dot shows you where the reading is being taken.

Perfect for checking:
Radiator temp drop form in to out
Checking for a bad cylinder (low output temp)

Re: correct V6 temp sending unit KEM TW7
 

As suggested, purchased and install new oil pressure sending unit and oil idiot light now works normally with each key start. Feel much better knowing it is operating.


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