Re: 1960 k1001
 

Trying to fit 55-59 Chevy Truck Upper front Shock mounts to replace broken 4X4 mounts. Had these salvaged from a project. Not sure yet. The removal of rivet method might be useful. Grind rivet head down flat. You will see the shank and see where center is. Center punch, drill about 1/4 + Diameter hole x 1/4 + deep then knock em out. Last pic, sizing up the donor to see if feasible. I say yes with some mod and new holes. Unless a better idea comes along.
P.S. The original 4X4 upper mounts seem have a breakage problem. The top is hanging out in the air. Unsupported where the stress is located. As you can see, the donor does the same. I will be adding a piece of angle or a "gusset" on top. Bolted to top frame flange and, I guess, welded to the mount. This will give the needed strength. I'll post when design is finalized.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Well that won't work. The originals are angled to align with the bottom axle mount. So I have plan A2 drawn up. Piece of angle and a flat piece. Welded. We'll see if that pans out. Gotta do some trig to see how much to cut off one leg of angle to get about 15 deg. As you can see one is busted and the other is busted and "fixed".

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Those always break. Here is how I do it. Some 3 inch box 1/4 thick. Cut and made like this. This is on my 46 but I do the same type on the early chev and jimmy 4x4 trucks.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Thanks. I'll see if that solves the angle issue also.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Just build it at the 15 degree angle. The single sheer point shock mounts fail all the time on all rigs. Regardless of manufacture. I design shock mounting to control wheel hop all the time. And multi sheer is always required. BC

Re: 1960 k1001
 

I think I have some 4" square tubing from a spring hanger I built. Not sure. Anyway I will try to mock it up. It seems like it will be difficult with the upper eye centerline parallel to frame instead of perp. My angle towards back is big also and tube may hit box. I may turn box 90 deg., still gives double shear. Maybe that's what you already said.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Mock up patterned after Barry's bracket. Will cut out some more weight and fancy it up a little and paint. 3X3 from a trailer hitch. Anybody see any problems?

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Next one I will drill holes for the cutout to create a radius. The square, overcut corners on the first one are stress risers and could cause crack/break. Will weld that one and fix corners. I may be cutting a huge chamfer from the strap to bottom inside corner. The bracket will be 2X bolted to the frame using at least one old hole. Also gotta check fender sheet metal, etc for interference. Don't remember what is near. Bracket will be about 1/2 higher to maintain CL to CL dimension (18"). But that is not that critical. Shocks are Monroe 31000.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Both semi-done.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Unconventional for sure. Wanted to see if my theory on fixing leak without removing all, would work. Finished 4X4 hubs, packed bearings and all that. Re-assembled both fronts. Filled knuckle with grease and 140 WT. Driver leaked even that stuff. So decided to put new rubber and felt without disturbing all I had done. Well, it came apart easy. So my theory was correct. A few notes: Don't do it.

The whole deal is Very Heavy and I will probably have an enormous time getting it back, Gotta think on it, Will use a jack to slide in. Had to try it. Glad I did it because Knuckle bearings were shot. One cup split, one cage broken. Other side will be easier because of short axle shaft. I thought I was going to have to move the house to clear the driver side axle shaft. Loooooooong! Anyway enjoy laughing at me, I'm with you. Left the heavy brake drum on to protect brake shoes and parts. It will be off when installing. That will save some weight!!! I almost fell over pulling it out, for real.