Re: 1966 c20
 

Sweet! You got skills I could use. I guess everyone on the boards can shoot paint but me :lol:

I'll have to fiddle with it some this summer and get my 'larnin on.

For the other thing, those 4.11 gears are loooo

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that's what I got on Cecilia I believe. You can't goose that squirrel over about 55-60. Your best bet is to swap them for 3.08s or so like David said. It's not supposed to be a tough swap if I remember reading right. I think Ron was good at that kinda stuff and identification of the rear ends.

Re: 1966 c20
 

That 3/4 ton truck probably does have 4:11's but still should run higher speeds. My '72 3/4 ton GMC also has that ratio. It's a 350 but will run all day at 75 mph fine. Sucks a little more gas than at 55 -65 for sure though.

If you go to a 350 find a set of 327 valve covers and they will look identical! If I remember right the 327 was a 4" bore just like the 350 anyway.

There probably isn't a u-joint in the steering column, so have a helper turn the steering wheel back and fourth just in the "play" range and start studying the steering box and flex joint, pitman arm idler arm and tie rods to see where the steering response reduces or stops moving.

The left front brake is grabbing harder then the right causing that pull, and possibly the LF isn't functioning at all.

That cable could be slapping around so just tie it somewhere and try driving again.

I like both of those greens but go with what you like.

Re: 1966 c20
 

Thanks guys! I'm out for the weekend for my girlfriends birthday, so I won't be back to the truck till Sunday, on the bright side I got a new lock cylinder for the driver door from a friend! No more unlocked truck (after it gets here...) I want to tear into it and verify what gearing I really have, I may actually have 4.56 gears contributing to my speed issue. On Sunday or Monday I'll know for sure I think. Thanks for the help guys!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

[QUOTE=GMCDAC;56668]That 3/4 ton truck probably does have 4:11's but still should run higher speeds. My '72 3/4 ton GMC also has that ratio. It's a 350 but will run all day at 75 mph fine. Sucks a little more gas than at 55 -65 for sure though.

If you go to a 350 find a set of 327 valve covers and they will look identical! If I remember right the 327 was a 4" bore just like the 350 anyway.

Issue with going to earlier 327 valve covers is they don't have the oil cap in the valve cover so you need the corresponding intake manifold with the oil neck and PCV fitting, that is if you want to be period correct.

Re: 1966 c20
 

[QUOTE=bigblockv6;56671]Yup, of course you are right on! Would cause some crankcase ventilation issues too!

I will retract the 327 valve cover comment!-LOL!! Memory ain't what it used to be.

DAC

Re: 1966 c20
 

Awesome, I'll keep that in mind! I might be looking at getting a 327 engine that someone offered up when I have some extra cash to buy it! But we will see how it goes, I'm looking at another part time job to cover expenses and fixing the truck so I can get some spending money.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Had to clean out the cowl today, didn't realize how bad it really was!!! Now I know better.
I also got the wipers working, worked the arms loose and kept working them until I got them fully extended and the connection between the arms and the motor popped back into place, i sure am glad I got that figured out!
After a few scoops of mud and needles:


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After a quick rinse:


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And a kind of cool look at the old paint layers


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Looks like I should have the wipers on Thursday or Friday, $24 for the set from O'reillys seems like a good deal! Now I just need a new windshield at some point in the future.
As for the slapping sound I've isolated it to coming from the left side near the floor, I believe it is the exhaust which comes down the left side and exits right behind the driver door. When I started it up with the clutch in and in neutral I still heard it so I know it isn't the transmission. If I have time tomorrow morning / afternoon I will go through and see if I can find anything, right now I already know the exhaust is kind of ghetto built anyways.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Looks like I got a new driver side door lock! I have yet to see any info or tutorials on how to install it though. Any tips would be great! It's one of those button locks from LMC (a very nice "investor" bought it for me). So I will tackle this Friday!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Okay, this was fun! I got my lock installed (upside down from what I wanted, but I really didn't want to modify the handle).
Step 1: remove the inner door panel (you must first remove the handle, latch handle, and window crank).
Step 2: remove the outside handle (two small screws inside the door, not hard to reach at all)



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Step 3: remove the old lock
First you need to remove the ring on the inside, mine had just a small piece of wire.
Second remove the assembly (I hit my button with a light tap from a hammer and it popped out in my hand)
Step 4: Cut the new lock flanges to match the old ones.


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Now take a sander and your cut off wheel and work it down smooth until it fits


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Step 5: insert the assembly and test fit
Step 6: swear at the snap ring they gave you because it DOES NOT FIT.
Step 7: make it fit
Step 8: re-install the handle with the lock inside of it
Step 8: smack the button while it's locked to make sure the snap ring doesn't break (it is a lock, after all, you don't need people getting in that easy!)
Step 9: re position the snap ring with a screw driver because you are too lazy to remove the handle again and bring it back inside. (Repeat steps 8-9 until it works, I only repositioned it once because I didn't like the way it looks)
Step 10: replace the inside door panel, handles, and crank.
Step 11: get dirty looks from your neighbor because your truck doesn't fit their idea of perfect
Step 12: rev the engine on said truck and embarrass their 6 cyl mustangs coffee can exhaust.
Step 13: sit in your truck for a few minutes with a smile and just enjoy being there.


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