1960 k1001
 

Begin with bringing it home. I will add pics as I progress.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Big Back Window and Custom trim and swb? Very Nice! Looks like it has that rare trim piece that goes around the cab. Congratulations.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Thanks. The more I rub around on it the more I like it. Clip off, bed off, doing the brakes. Very non rusty rig. I look out the window at it when I'm not working on it.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

OK ken we will have a little reset here. Btw that's a cool truck. I had one like it once. Here is some advice since you have been asking ?s here and there. Before you start buying parts for the drive train you need to really know what you have to start with. I have seen to many people spend money on front axle parts only to find out its mostly junk to start with. Or they decide later they want PS and disc brakes. Same with the t221 is it in reasonable shape. Most are not. I got tired of the t221 25 years ago and only keep a few around for restorations. I won't run it in a daily or frequently driven rig. I keep 205 cases around for the swaps. The reason I am suggesting this is ask yourself what you want in this rig. A good driver that's easy to use and maintain or a 100 point restoration. That you look at. Barry

Re: 1960 k1001
 

It has power steering. Mechanical brakes. Putting a running 305 in it, hook up the drive shafts and drive a little around the place to see if it moves and goes into 4X4, etc with no cab or clip on. At least that's plan A for now. T221 has no busted caps and has RTV from some sort of "rebuild". Was operating fine when engine tore down for valve job, then owner became unable to finish. Motor got rained on and would need reamed/boring. If all the drained fluids look OK and it moves with no ugly noises, I will continue. My goal is a nice ORIGINAL, as possible, driver. I don't rebuild engines, I buy runners on the trucks I've done. I've been lucky so far. If I keep the truck I may go the 205, open Knuckle option. Trying to keep from spending too much $$ until I see what condition my condition is in.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

The 205 transfer case will be great upgrade over the T-221. I did this conversion on my 68 K-2500 and I'm much happier with it's durability and quiet operation. In your case you will need the divorced style case used in earlier Dodge pickups.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

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I might be foolishly hoping that the Rockwell is good and the knuckle is good, etc. But right now I'm not up to any major mods. I may have to learn the hard way. I was thinking of a 205 on the back of a more modern V8 and trans, mated to an axle from the same donor. I converted a 1956 GMC 2WD Carryall to 4WD that way. That is a cleaner way and possibly easier. BUT, it's a big move from stock/305

Re: 1960 k1001
 

I would consider all the upgrades you mentioned except for the V8. Doing this you'll destroy the distinctiveness of a real GMC. My answer to this was to upgrade to a larger displacement V6, I chose the 478M and at some point I'll install Howell Fuel Injection which is based of the GM TBI.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

The international 205 cases have spicier yokes. They are the least expensive option. My local pull and save sells t cases for 55.00. I have had my guy pull 6 so far this year. 2 were air force international trucks both have rebuild tags from the early 90's. Crazy. Like new inside. 2 things to check on the early dana44 are straightness and spindle condition. Lots of spun races. Plus the spindles are getting hard to find. What type of PS does it have now?.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Wrong pics Sorry. Tried again and the pic i clic on is not what apears. I will try again.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Added pic of the 56 above. The PS seems to be a well done DIY Saginaw setup with a welded/adapted pitman. Haven't investigated it much yet. You can see the two hole PS pump bracket under Motor Mount. You can also see the upper shock mount has been Gusseted because it broke as the other one did, Seem fairly common on 4X4. Since this is GMC's first truck of the new generation, I will give them a break
I will also build an equal or better mount. I do realize it lasted a long, long time with probably some abuse. I dig this truck. I don't want to bag it, lower it, jack it, hot rod it, but not opposed to restomod with safety and reliability in mind, maybe. It is an A block but the intake says 63 (I think). Came with a Two Jet and a WW.



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Re: 1960 k1001
 

Holy crap. As grandpa says if you built a lawn mower it would weigh a 1000 pounds. Steering looks stout.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Here is how I look at a 60-70 front 4x4 axle. I won't spent more than 200 I have about 20 of these 1/2 and 3/4 ton front axles. I will swap in a 70's d44 axle.and walk away. I currently am not running a closed knuckle GM front axle because of the lack of parts. And I have enough parts to make 5 or 6 .

Re: 1960 k1001
 

That's ME! :thumbsup:

It keeps me motivated and makes me wanna get to working on her all the time. That's a great looking truck Ken. Good luck with the build!

You need about 500 more pictures in it though! :D

Side note, I'm rebuilding my T221 and the parts aren't all that hard to find. Most of the stuff seems to just be cross compatible with other things so far if I remember right. I got sidetracked after ordering my parts, but I'll start again on it soon.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Thanks FMAP. I just got a 305E, saw it run. It's dirty, grimy. Can't stand that. trying to get the monster on my engine stand to clean, check things, gasketize it, paint and run it. So hard to deal with by myself but I'm getting there. Busted the rubber off the mounts, dang it! So anyway, now I have two V6's, a runner E and a parts A. A month ago I couldn't even spell V6. Camera broke and it takes me forever to study and buy something. Will have pics soon. Still doing complete brake system and that's not interesting to anyone. Need to inspect front spindles, etc as Barry mentioned. Got all the retaining rings off but lock gear "stuck" like others have been. Waiting for book to show up so I will feel better about jerking on things in there. I have a feeling that 1960 being the first year, there are things on this truck that got changed/improved maybe even in 61? that spiral retaining ring was not the best idea. (Warn hubs) My book is 1960 specific, if I ever get it. Media mail!!!!

Re: 1960 k1001
 

WRONG! Lots of lurkers have no idea how to do that so posting your progress, even on stupid stuff (in my thread I'm painting wheels, lol) is helpful. You'd be surprised the PMs you get from people out of the blue about the stuff you never even thought about.

I tore my hubs apart with Barry's help this past spring. Check my build for part numbers and how to avoid frustrations. Easy peasy. Those retaining rings were weird, but they work. I couldn't even FIND mine when I started LOL. Barry, JB, and GMCDAC (iirc) just about beat me with a wrench trying to show me where they were over the internet. I was clueless.



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. Search Knuckle and it'll show up. I think it starts on page 31.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Super good thread, saved it. thanks.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Mechanically the 60-66 Gmc 4x4 trucks are basically the same. Besides the body and trim changes the biggest changes are electrical. There are 3 underdash harnesses and 2 engine harneses. Plus the inline 6 engine harness. These electrical components are not the same as chevy.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

I thought I noticed some subtle changes to 4X4 front frame like shock mounting, motor mounts. My tranny cross member unbolted, the cross member on the 63, I just took the motor from, was riveted. That caused a lot of trouble, tranny will NOT come out with motor as it did with the 60. They must have dropped the body down over it not realizing the tranny was "trapped". The guy who decided to rivet the cross member didn't talk to the tranny/motor people.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Every once and a while I see bolted tranny cross member. Most are riveted. Except hydramatic trucks. There are lots of little things. There are 3 styles of rear upper shock mount on leaf spring trucks. All go in the same spot. However the mechanicals are mostly identicall.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Well the trauma of getting it out is over. It's home now.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Cleaning her up. Next step: compression check before continue to clean and paint and renew.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

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Phase one complete, Motor Start. Seems to run good but Two of the **** new freeze plugs I put in leaked without pressure! I did not put any goop on them. Should have. I figured it was a waste of time, a press fit is a press fit. But castings are castings. Always did it before. Bottom long bolt on filter leaks a little. Nothing else so far. Temporary Valve covers while I "restore" the plaids. Oil pressure about 50.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

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Now hubs and brakes getting done. Rears done and one front

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Re: 1960 k1001
 

Ken: You certainly aren't messing around! The project is coming along nicely.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Well it seems like I am slow. "Lazy is as lazy does". My name is Ken, people call me Ken. I've had it three months. But I'm a one man show. Plumbing and drivetrain install next. Then test drive ,without clip or bed, before continuing. A person needs little successes or mile stone activity to keep going on these projects. Possibly a TV program or two helps also.... And the 6066 GMC Club. Many thanks for the encouragement. The difficult period of finding parts for motor, painting motor, finding brake parts and also the 4X4 hub work is done. The rest is all cleaning, fixing, the dreaded body work, assembly, wiring and so on...if the drivetrain operates OK.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Nice work Ken. Keep those pictures coming along too. Great training films for some of us!

Re: 1960 k1001
 

I've done a lot of searching to find parts at O'Reilly's, Napa, Rockauto for the truck. Local places don't have info that far back but I've been able to get PN's from this site, the old parts and other places and convert to available parts at Local Auto Parts stores where I can compare and make sure it's correct and take it back if it does not fit. O'Reilly's is great for that but I find my own parts from their website and tell them the number. Telling them I have a 1960GMC K1001 is no good. Example: 1960 front inner wheel bearing and cup for 4X4: same as 1972 Chevy K10. Could not find it under 1960 GMC K1000. So if anyone needs Part Numbers, or where to buy, I'll be glad to try and help. I'm getting good at finding parts. The places I've listed above, Ebay, Amazon and some other web sites use industry part numbers and you can trace it to a local store which has the part but their database lists it for some other vehicle you would never find. Some of them list the sizes of the part and that helps also. To me it's fun to find them. The "classic truck parts" guys and others, convert to their part number so you can't go around them. I have received a lot of help from members on this site also. Thanks to all.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Cleaned Hub parts, My office desk, present state of chassis.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Yeah, agree with everyone else. Great thread! Keep it coming.

DAC

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Trying to fit 55-59 Chevy Truck Upper front Shock mounts to replace broken 4X4 mounts. Had these salvaged from a project. Not sure yet. The removal of rivet method might be useful. Grind rivet head down flat. You will see the shank and see where center is. Center punch, drill about 1/4 + Diameter hole x 1/4 + deep then knock em out. Last pic, sizing up the donor to see if feasible. I say yes with some mod and new holes. Unless a better idea comes along.
P.S. The original 4X4 upper mounts seem have a breakage problem. The top is hanging out in the air. Unsupported where the stress is located. As you can see, the donor does the same. I will be adding a piece of angle or a "gusset" on top. Bolted to top frame flange and, I guess, welded to the mount. This will give the needed strength. I'll post when design is finalized.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Well that won't work. The originals are angled to align with the bottom axle mount. So I have plan A2 drawn up. Piece of angle and a flat piece. Welded. We'll see if that pans out. Gotta do some trig to see how much to cut off one leg of angle to get about 15 deg. As you can see one is busted and the other is busted and "fixed".

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Those always break. Here is how I do it. Some 3 inch box 1/4 thick. Cut and made like this. This is on my 46 but I do the same type on the early chev and jimmy 4x4 trucks.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Thanks. I'll see if that solves the angle issue also.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Just build it at the 15 degree angle. The single sheer point shock mounts fail all the time on all rigs. Regardless of manufacture. I design shock mounting to control wheel hop all the time. And multi sheer is always required. BC

Re: 1960 k1001
 

I think I have some 4" square tubing from a spring hanger I built. Not sure. Anyway I will try to mock it up. It seems like it will be difficult with the upper eye centerline parallel to frame instead of perp. My angle towards back is big also and tube may hit box. I may turn box 90 deg., still gives double shear. Maybe that's what you already said.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Mock up patterned after Barry's bracket. Will cut out some more weight and fancy it up a little and paint. 3X3 from a trailer hitch. Anybody see any problems?

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Next one I will drill holes for the cutout to create a radius. The square, overcut corners on the first one are stress risers and could cause crack/break. Will weld that one and fix corners. I may be cutting a huge chamfer from the strap to bottom inside corner. The bracket will be 2X bolted to the frame using at least one old hole. Also gotta check fender sheet metal, etc for interference. Don't remember what is near. Bracket will be about 1/2 higher to maintain CL to CL dimension (18"). But that is not that critical. Shocks are Monroe 31000.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Both semi-done.

Re: 1960 k1001
 

Unconventional for sure. Wanted to see if my theory on fixing leak without removing all, would work. Finished 4X4 hubs, packed bearings and all that. Re-assembled both fronts. Filled knuckle with grease and 140 WT. Driver leaked even that stuff. So decided to put new rubber and felt without disturbing all I had done. Well, it came apart easy. So my theory was correct. A few notes: Don't do it.

The whole deal is Very Heavy and I will probably have an enormous time getting it back, Gotta think on it, Will use a jack to slide in. Had to try it. Glad I did it because Knuckle bearings were shot. One cup split, one cage broken. Other side will be easier because of short axle shaft. I thought I was going to have to move the house to clear the driver side axle shaft. Loooooooong! Anyway enjoy laughing at me, I'm with you. Left the heavy brake drum on to protect brake shoes and parts. It will be off when installing. That will save some weight!!! I almost fell over pulling it out, for real.