6066 (1960-1966) GMC Truck Club

Hello,
I am the third generation owner of a 1964 GMC 1/2 ton 2WD, short wheelbase fleetside truck. My grandfather bought the truck new locally, its original color was a turquoise green, now it's a tan/cream color with white accents. The bluish green was a hard color to keep from fading, always needed a coat of wax about every three months.
I was born in the same year, I learned how to drive in this truck. We used it to deliver fruit in lug boxes to either the dehydrator or the winery or use it to run to the grocery store. Can remember those Firestone Bias-ply tires that took forever to warm up, especially on those cold mornings, just about jarred your teeth loose.
Originally it had a 230 I-6 cylinder, 1 barrel Carter with a four speed Muncie trans with Granny Low. The rear-end gears were quite low, 3:93 I think, so my grandfather wanted for hauling the loads of fruit, plus added overload springs.
I would like to learn how to identify certain parts or ID tags mounted on the truck. In the mid 90's, the GMC got hit from behind by a car, doing about 50 that lost it's brakes. Dad felt a small "thud" as he put it, but the GMC sustained major bed damage.
The car hit the left rear corner, bent the wrap around Barden bumper connected to the rear quarter panel, and as you might imagine, that fender & bumper were toast. Including the bed wood and strips, the front bed panel, the tailgate although, did not bend. The cab had some indentations, the right side was salvageable, but due to the weight of yard debris in the back, somewhat created a cushion for more damage to occur. Couldn't find a replacement Barden anywhere.
From this point, my Dad chose to paint the exterior the Tan color because he saw other trucks of this era like that and wanted to have a change. The rims were white along with the front clip, light housings and bumper.
We had a can of the Fawn Metallic grey paint for the interior and I began to search for new parts online and did it's first restoration. It wasn't an off-frame restoration. I've been told it would be good to go back to the original color.
I also removed the widowmaker split rims and put the stock rims from the '70 Chevy 6-lug, 15/8" rims, painted them white, GMC hub covers popped right on.
At around 2001, we had some major rear main seal leaks and the compression was starting to drop along with the "blue smoke" from the tailpipe. Had the engine bored out and rebuilt to a 250 c.i., split the exhaust manifolds to add dual pipes with 40" glass packs. Changed the Carter carb to a 2 bbl. Holley, serviced the Muncie, changed some bushings, motor mounts, usual but basic things as necessary.
The most recent work I have had done is add power assist front disc brakes, change the rear end gears from the low 3:93 to a 3:07 so the 250 engine wouldn't wind out at freeway speeds. Unfortunately, the 15" stock rims did not fit with the new calipers, so I purchased 5 new 16" powdercoated white rims, with stainless moons with the GMC logo and stainless beauty rings. That required new tires too, Firestone Transforce HT. The extra tread and diameter made the manual steering so much easier too. I purchased all of these from Wheelsmith Inc. in Corona, CA. Then learned the 16" spare doesn't fit under the bed now either.

The biggest problem...that I have dealt with all my life, is that I am a big and tall man, at 6'7", built like a football lineman. I wear a size 16 shoe, so that in itself is limited with the pedal design.
The standard cab is quite small for me, (or maybe I should say I am too big for it) and with recent serious medical issues over the last several years, I can't drive the GMC due to the small space between body and clutch/brake pedals and my legs. When I can drive on a good day, I usually have to ride the clutch.
The steering wheel and column is in my chest practically. I've purchased a whole bunch of new parts from LMC truck, one being a tilt steering column with a new Billet wheel smaller in diameter. The catch though, will I be able to turn the wheel, without P/S as compared to the stock wheel?

I don't want to part with this truck...there's just too much family history and memories. My daily driver is a Chevy 2014 with a 4 door cab, and really, there's not a huge amount of legroom in those either.

Some of the ideas and/or comments that I would like input back from other members:

This has the small rear window. To increase cab room, I'd like to remove the seat fuel tank. Has anyone ever cut out the metal piece that's under the window, from side to side, about 6-8" in height, that would normally cover the top of the tank, to gain about 4-5" once removed, at best, to slide the seat back farther?

Is there another model year bench seat that will fit inside the cab besides the stock version? Something that may have an air-ride seat? Or power controlled although not necessary. The new bench seats aren't really benches, two buckets with a box in-between that folds and hides crap inside of it...but doesn't move on the base at all.

Replacing the fuel tank(s) - Seems like there's plenty of room between the front of the rear axle between the frame and bed fender, I'd like to add filler doors in the fenders. I realize the usual, customary spot is where the spare tire was, but I don't like the fill point where the nice, finished, urethaned bed wood is, and the possibility of damaging it with the fuel.

If I was to swap the Muncie 4-spd manual out with an automatic transmission w/OD, what would bolt up to the I-6 250? Can you give me the part number please, or those I should look at. Would there need to be any special additional housing to take up the space. I'd also appreciate losing the high hump for leg room in the floor too.

If I keep the Muncie, is there a different pedal set-up that would allow more room, or if there's a kit that would put the clutch/brake pedals on the floor rather than having to lift the legs to the pedals? If the seat can be pushed back, maybe the pedals can stay in stock position but cut down and re-welded as some mechanics have explained been done.

Why are other instrument bezels easier to replace than my '64 style bezel? It seems that there are so many after-market lenses, dial replacements for the other years. My bezel has the large center speedometer, the smaller fuel gauge to the right, temp gauge to the left, with warning lights above and below the smaller gauges. There's two large blank, recessed areas the same size as the speedometer, but I have seem these areas filled with a Tach in one side and maybe a clock in the other...but not even NOS with this is easy to find.

My heater is a pull-out knob and turns for fan speeds. Has the handle under the dash to send the air up to the defroster vents or halfway in between. I'd like to get the full A/C packages but rather have the sliding vertical lever controls...unless there's other better aftermarket packages? Do all the kits have everything you need for inside as well as what's needed for the engine compartment?

Would it be wise after this amount of time to replace the main wiring harness, especially for the fuse panel, and installing a different steering column (depending on what transmission I decide to leave or change)? I know the wiring under the hood, due to the heat will all be replaced. Plus converting the headlights to LED as well.

I think I have talked everyone's ear off by now. I tried to download a current picture, but it's a different format here. I may do a frame-off as this truck has served it's hauling time...now it just needs to haul ***! I appreciate the help from others and any links or websites for parts recommendations, transmission or engine upgrades or pictures in general,
is something I'd like to see.

Thanks again! Tom - ItalOso