First to settle the fuse box wiring. You did have the flasher section wired the same as the original box. So it was correct? But something does not make sense. The diagram shows looking at the front of the box. The diagram has the box laying sideways from how it would be mounted in truck. The top is at the left in the diagram. So when box is mounted, the flasher would be at the bottom right. As you look at box flasher receptacle contacts when box is mounted, "L" will be a bit upper right and blade is vertical, "X" will be a bit lower left and blade horizontal. Flasher will not plug in correctly as I believe is what you discovered. So it means the diagram is wrong and VIO and BRN must be switched at box. This is almost impossible to believe, but if we are sure that "L" goes to T/S switch VIO and "X" is a switched hot wire, probably BRN. we can maintain sanity. I would like to see a pic of front of box, as would be mounted, with flasher removed, to see blade orientation of box flasher contacts to see if I'm crazy or not.
You did test the flasher I think. If you agree on the above statements and after you have all the lights actually installed on the truck as original, we will begin testing for where the failure is. Do not install any lenses. Be sure you have all the necessary ground straps. Battery negative cable to motor, motor strap to frame, frame straps to cab and bed. In any order you wish. Be sure there is no paint or corrosion at ground points. Be sure all lamp sockets and housings are grounded. Leave the turn signal switch exposed. Install headlight switch.( I believe it needs it's frame to be grounded). Put in all fuses and leave fuse box accessible but wired. Leave the T/S switch side of the connector contacts exposed without shell like you have it. If the truck is not together, at least put the bed on so as to wire the tail lights properly. We can mock up front turn signal hood lights, but they must be wired into the truck per original wiring. Wiring is usually done when truck is almost complete. One of the last things. You may be too early. We can no longer test with so many loose and temporary parts, grounds, wires, terminations and splices. You can't really mock up wiring. You need truck all together to get all terminations done, routing, dressing, clamping and lengths of wire, switches and gauges wired and so on. You don't save time or work with disassembled mock up wiring testing.
Whatever part or bulb or fuse is bad, a miswire or lack of grounding, we will find it. We will begin testing when all above is settled and agreed.
It would be very nice to have one of
THESE
A complete restoration with new paint, a DIY wiring harness with Austrian rules and truck not fully assembled is a little more difficult to troubleshoot than someone who has a lighting issue. I am enjoying the challenge and you just want to drive the dam thing
I am going as fast as I can. You are great and have done a good wiring job. It's tuff for me and you at 5,871 miles away.
Remember we have an 8 hour time difference.