Thread: inline six woes
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Old July 23rd, 2014, 07:14 AM
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Default Re: inline six woes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pops View Post
Thanks for taking time out to respond. To make sure I don't send advisers off on a goose chase, there are a couple more things worth mentioning:
1. I have a Petronix insert in distrib-- I know nothing about this product
2. I'm not sure how to test coil function. The friend who re-positioned the dizzy couldn't get #1 plug wire to spark off block. He didn't say why. Just said it should have.
3. All newer ignition parts on car; also gas tank, filters, etc. I have timed engine with light, and by ear. Still can't address smell, watery start-ups, or vibration at low RPM's while sitting at light. (and timing mark seems off when using light)
4. The truck came with a power brake booster add-on. Looks like it was meant for the truck - not custom. Do these create vacuum problems if not performing perfectly?
5. It sounds contradictory, but can turning the mixture screw more in counterclockwise direction actually address vibration. It would seem I was going backwards if i make it
more rich.

If I've thrown too much out there, please accept my apology. For now, could you please address coil function, and booster question. The PO had plugged off the vacuum line to booster saying he preferred the feeling of original non-power brakes. I changed booster grommet and put on new hose. I prefer power brakes by far. But, I am now a little suspect about why he really disabled the booster. I'm not throwing any stones right now, but I thought I'd share the last point so I'm not tearing up and replacing things when its in the vacuum system (at booster).
I assume that dizzy means distributor and if you cant get #1 wire to spark then your vibration is coming from an engine mis-fire meaning that any wire that is not sparking properly is causing a that cylinder to "NOT FIRE", this will make the engine seem to vibrate or run rough!!!

If the timing mark does not seem to line up properly that is because it is not lining up properly due to the distributor rotor not lining up with your plug wire connections at the distributor.

Don't worry about the water coming out of the muffler or tail pipe it's just condensation.

I assume the petronix is an electronic ignition and it's my guess that this is ok or the engine would likely not be running at all.

You need to properly time the engine by hand. Get valve cover off pull out the number one plug and bring the engine to top dead center. Make sure the valves for number one are closed with a long lag time between valve movement(not the short lag time). Use a long thin screw driver in the plug hole or coat hanger to feel when the piston is positively at the top. Your timing mark should be at "0" now! If you have the piston and valves in the correct position then the rotor in your distributor should be lined up almost right at the #1 plug wire in the cap.

From what you have said I believe that it will not be close to #1. You should pull the distributor and get it lined up correctly or move your plug wires on the cap, keeping them in the correct order, to make them line up properly. You must still have enough swing room to move the distributor for timing adjustments.

If you want to do a poor man's test on the distributor/coil/plugwires then all you do is pull the plug wires off the plugs one at a time and put screwdriver into the plug wire while holding it with a glove on your hand. Bring the screw driver very close to any metal on the engine while running, or your friend turns the engine over and watch for a very bright spark(not a dull one), this is easier if it is a little dark out. If they all spark then all cylinders will fire and the engine should run smooth if your timing is correct. If one of them does not fire then you likely have a bad plug wire unless there is something going wrong with your petronix. If all seems to be ok after all this then start the engine and set your timing like usual, make double sure you put the plug wires in the correct firing order. If there is bright spark then you likely have a good coil.

I still recommend going to youtube to watch videos of using a vacuum gauge for tuning your carb, you will learn the most watching the video. disconnect and plug your brake booster vac line when doing this. you have to make sure there is nowhere to loose vacuum.

The bad smell is just un-burned fuel coming from the engine misfiring, that will go away when this issue is corrected. Making the carb run more rich will make that smell worse because there will just be more un-burned fuel.

Hope this gets you some good results

Last edited by quest; July 23rd, 2014 at 07:25 AM. Reason: mistakes
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