Thread: 1966 c20
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Old January 7th, 2015, 05:45 AM
Hantke Hantke is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
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Default Re: 1966 c20

Sorry I haven't been updating, but for some reason the Tapatalk app won't load this forum, and my iPhone won't open it either! (unfortunately all my pics are on the iPhone, so ill have to sort that out late).

So, the headlights! i spent about an hour and a half drinking with my volt meter testing the headlight wires every foot to a few inches from start to finish, didn't find anything. Finally looked closer at the headlight (like i should have in the firs place) and found that it was broken and full of water. replaced both lights with two new ones, and, LET THERE BE LIGHT! not a single issue in the darn thing! now unfortunately my volt meter crapped out on me, so I'm hoping the tail light on the same side is the same issue (a new tail light bulb is only like $3.50 anyways). my right rear blinker works, but some idiot cut the wires on the front blinker between the fire wall and the hood, no left blinker at all.

I'm still having the startup issue though. I bought a carb rebuild kit thinking i would rebuild it (it turned out to be a general rebuild kit, so a lot of spare parts and i was lost!) so about half way through i decided I would just brake clean parts of it, replace the jet and needle, then replace the fuel filter and gaskets and i would just put it back together. Now it leaks gas through the gasket and it STILL doesn't start!!! when i get some time (either in the morning tomorrow, thursday, or some time friday) I will take the carb back off, and (depending on how motivated i'm feeling) either take it apart again and carb dip it (costs money that i don't have) or just trouble shoot it as much as i can.

things i know so far:
1. when fuel line is put in a bottle and the starter is turned over it will squirt fuel into the bottle
2. fule filter is clean
3. the carb will be getting an air filter soon
4. Motorcycle carbs are NOT, i repeat, NOT the same as these carbs!
5. i changed the bottom of the float to the float bowl measurement from 1 7/8" to 1 3/4" as the instructions said to.
6. if i dump even a little gas into the carb it starts up fine with no issues
7. I will be removing the choke line and just adjusting it by hand until the truck is warm, then I can go and drive somewhere. (choke cable keeps binding)
8. I wouldn't mind (at all) if i could just put a small edelbrock or holley carb that i understand how to use on here, but this one is kind of fun to tinker with (though i would appreciate being able to afford to think more)

any tips on carb work? its a rochester monojet "B" series (B for basic?? lol) i found some videos on youtube, but the guys on there seem to have some bad habits.
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2008 Lancer GTS - DD / Parts runner
1966 Chevy C20 - Winter Project / work truck build?
2006 Suzuki GS500F - finished rebuilding after wreck / soon to be DD
GMC Hunting - I'll get my hands on one of 'em eventually.
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