[gmcdan1963]

Thanks for reading and responding.
To clarify;
"The wiring going to the gauge cluster was spliced into and I just want to replace it all. I've had issues with wires arcing and causing shorts under the dash when I was younger, and don't want the same experiences for the young owner of the truck."
I introduced myself a couple week ago in the general topo section as a new member. At that time I stated that I'm helping a friends son a (Justin 16 years old) build the 1965 GMC. I have many classic vehicles projects of my own, and have done most of my own work on them.

In my '64 Chevy K10, (when I was around 19) I didn't have any extra money and had to live with the wiring that was in the truck when I bought it. When you turned the key, it only started the truck 1 out of 4 or 5 attempts. The previous owner had wired a horn button that was under the dash and went to the starter. It worked to start the truck, but he neglected to put a grommet through the firewall. It rubbed through the insulator and arced when I was starting the truck.

A couple months later, a terminal end from the after market gauge cluster failed (the wires pulled out, while the terminal stayed in place) this was for the volt meter and melted the wire rather than tripping a glass fuse in the original fuse block.

The third and final issues was when a chuck of the wiring insulation came off the wires to the heater and arced against something under the dash. It blacked the insulation on the inside of the firewall, but did not start a fire.

After that, I had to park the truck and saved for a wiring harness. I made the mistake of using the painless "direct fit" for 64-66 Chevy, at the time (maybe it's better now) it was basically a universal harness and I had to reuse half the stuff I expected to be in the kit. I tried to save a few bucks in the past and it always bits me in the end.

I don't want Justin to have to worry about wiring issues, or have problem like I did.

"I want to leave the wires from the new harness long enough that if the factory gauge cluster (and a spare from a '63 parts truck) don't work, I can cut the newly installed terminals and use the same wires to hook up after market gauges.
This would replace all the original wiring, so no splicing would be necessary and it would remove the 50+ year old wires that feel a little stiff when bending them."

It means just that. The wires were spiced into (don't ask me why) and it clean cut them about 8" from the gray plug that connects to the gauge cluster. When I bend the wires in half, they feel like the wires inside are made of fiberglass and in makes me want them completely replace with new wires rather than butt splicing new wires to the existing.
That's why I want the new factory style terminal ends. I can then replace all the existing wiring, and leave a little extra so I can have options to change gauges later without needing to add more wire if the factory gauges don't work.

The terminals in the factory plug for the gauge cluster do not lock in place like other delphi/packard terminals do. They just slide in and out of the gray plug.
The reference to delphi/packard style I referenced was the way the terminals crimp the wires. One folds into the wire, and a second crimp golds into the insulation. This in my opinion is 100 times better than the smash type wire terminals.

We had a specialty electrical supply shop that might of been helpful, but the closed a few years back.
The local chain auto parts store look at me like I'm speaking Chinese, after the point to the $20 import electrical repair kit they sell. Napa might be helpful, but it depends on his mood, and if he's there or if it's someone he has filling in for him.

Hope the back story helps, but all I really want is to know if anyone has a part number or name of the original style terminal ends (pictured) so I can crimp them to brand new wires.

Thanks,
Daniel