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Builds and Journals This is where the magic happens. Photograph & document your GMC build progress for posterity.
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  #31  
Old November 5th, 2014, 07:52 PM
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AZKen AZKen is offline
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Default Re: 1960 k1001

Trying to fit 55-59 Chevy Truck Upper front Shock mounts to replace broken 4X4 mounts. Had these salvaged from a project. Not sure yet. The removal of rivet method might be useful. Grind rivet head down flat. You will see the shank and see where center is. Center punch, drill about 1/4 + Diameter hole x 1/4 + deep then knock em out. Last pic, sizing up the donor to see if feasible. I say yes with some mod and new holes. Unless a better idea comes along.
P.S. The original 4X4 upper mounts seem have a breakage problem. The top is hanging out in the air. Unsupported where the stress is located. As you can see, the donor does the same. I will be adding a piece of angle or a "gusset" on top. Bolted to top frame flange and, I guess, welded to the mount. This will give the needed strength. I'll post when design is finalized.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00192.JPG (2.07 MB, Multiple views, 11 clicks)
File Type: jpg DSC00196.JPG (2.19 MB, Multiple views, 8 clicks)
File Type: jpg DSC00197.JPG (2.05 MB, Multiple views, 6 clicks)
File Type: jpg DSC00199.JPG (2.13 MB, Multiple views, 6 clicks)

Last edited by AZKen; November 5th, 2014 at 10:55 PM.
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  #32  
Old November 6th, 2014, 09:19 PM
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Default Re: 1960 k1001

Well that won't work. The originals are angled to align with the bottom axle mount. So I have plan A2 drawn up. Piece of angle and a flat piece. Welded. We'll see if that pans out. Gotta do some trig to see how much to cut off one leg of angle to get about 15 deg. As you can see one is busted and the other is busted and "fixed".
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File Type: jpg DSC00205.JPG (2.22 MB, Multiple views, 8 clicks)
File Type: jpg DSC00208.JPG (1.81 MB, Multiple views, 6 clicks)

Last edited by AZKen; November 6th, 2014 at 09:25 PM.
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  #33  
Old November 6th, 2014, 11:08 PM
BarryGMC BarryGMC is offline
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Default Re: 1960 k1001

Those always break. Here is how I do it. Some 3 inch box 1/4 thick. Cut and made like this. This is on my 46 but I do the same type on the early chev and jimmy 4x4 trucks.
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  #34  
Old November 7th, 2014, 12:24 AM
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Default Re: 1960 k1001

Thanks. I'll see if that solves the angle issue also.
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  #35  
Old November 7th, 2014, 02:53 AM
BarryGMC BarryGMC is offline
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Default Re: 1960 k1001

Just build it at the 15 degree angle. The single sheer point shock mounts fail all the time on all rigs. Regardless of manufacture. I design shock mounting to control wheel hop all the time. And multi sheer is always required. BC
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  #36  
Old November 7th, 2014, 03:27 AM
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Default Re: 1960 k1001

I think I have some 4" square tubing from a spring hanger I built. Not sure. Anyway I will try to mock it up. It seems like it will be difficult with the upper eye centerline parallel to frame instead of perp. My angle towards back is big also and tube may hit box. I may turn box 90 deg., still gives double shear. Maybe that's what you already said.
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  #37  
Old November 8th, 2014, 09:58 PM
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Default Re: 1960 k1001

Mock up patterned after Barry's bracket. Will cut out some more weight and fancy it up a little and paint. 3X3 from a trailer hitch. Anybody see any problems?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00211.JPG (2.22 MB, Multiple views, 5 clicks)
File Type: jpg DSC00212.JPG (2.04 MB, Multiple views, 11 clicks)
File Type: jpg DSC00215.JPG (1.73 MB, Multiple views, 5 clicks)

Last edited by AZKen; November 8th, 2014 at 10:04 PM.
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  #38  
Old November 8th, 2014, 10:08 PM
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Default Re: 1960 k1001

Next one I will drill holes for the cutout to create a radius. The square, overcut corners on the first one are stress risers and could cause crack/break. Will weld that one and fix corners. I may be cutting a huge chamfer from the strap to bottom inside corner. The bracket will be 2X bolted to the frame using at least one old hole. Also gotta check fender sheet metal, etc for interference. Don't remember what is near. Bracket will be about 1/2 higher to maintain CL to CL dimension (18"). But that is not that critical. Shocks are Monroe 31000.

Last edited by AZKen; November 8th, 2014 at 10:25 PM. Reason: clarify
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  #39  
Old November 9th, 2014, 10:09 PM
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Default Re: 1960 k1001

Both semi-done.
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File Type: jpg DSC00219.JPG (2.23 MB, Multiple views, 3 clicks)
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  #40  
Old November 20th, 2014, 11:32 PM
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Default Re: 1960 k1001

Unconventional for sure. Wanted to see if my theory on fixing leak without removing all, would work. Finished 4X4 hubs, packed bearings and all that. Re-assembled both fronts. Filled knuckle with grease and 140 WT. Driver leaked even that stuff. So decided to put new rubber and felt without disturbing all I had done. Well, it came apart easy. So my theory was correct. A few notes: Don't do it.

The whole deal is Very Heavy and I will probably have an enormous time getting it back, Gotta think on it, Will use a jack to slide in. Had to try it. Glad I did it because Knuckle bearings were shot. One cup split, one cage broken. Other side will be easier because of short axle shaft. I thought I was going to have to move the house to clear the driver side axle shaft. Loooooooong! Anyway enjoy laughing at me, I'm with you. Left the heavy brake drum on to protect brake shoes and parts. It will be off when installing. That will save some weight!!! I almost fell over pulling it out, for real.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00250.JPG (2.01 MB, Multiple views, 12 clicks)
File Type: jpg DSC00251.JPG (2.19 MB, Multiple views, 7 clicks)
File Type: jpg DSC00257.JPG (2.17 MB, Multiple views, 10 clicks)
File Type: jpg DSC00259.JPG (2.22 MB, Multiple views, 6 clicks)
File Type: jpg DSC00260.JPG (2.17 MB, Multiple views, 9 clicks)

Last edited by AZKen; November 21st, 2014 at 01:38 AM. Reason: clarify
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