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GMC V6 and V12 Engines Engine repair and rebuilding

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  #11  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 04:00 PM
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Default Re: '63 Fenderside in Colorado

The flywheel isn't to bad, it's just the unexpected Fall when you pull the last bolt. haha I recommend having someone with you just in case. And keep in mind!!! They will only go back on ONE WAY! So make some marks as to which holes lined with which holes!!! When I went to put mine back on I had to revolve it around the crank until I could line all the holes....Not fun!
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  #12  
Old August 24th, 2016, 01:48 AM
HOTRODJOHN HOTRODJOHN is offline
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Default Re: '63 Fenderside in Colorado

Ken, I am just finishing a 66 Malibu Convertible for a customer. I will start a thread when I finished with this car. I am going to build headers for the truck and I am working on an A/C bracket for anyone who may need it. I am a Vintage Air dealer so I will make them for my installations and anyone else who may need them. I am sourcing the multiple groove pulleys in case There is a problem getting them. Will keep everyone posted. Looks like the headers will be 1 3/4 diameter into a 3 1/2" collector, but things may change when I get started. John
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  #13  
Old August 24th, 2016, 01:53 AM
HOTRODJOHN HOTRODJOHN is offline
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Default Re: '63 Fenderside in Colorado

Ken, I am just finishing a 66 Malibu Convertible for a customer. I will start a thread when I finished with this car. I am going to build headers for the truck and I am working on an A/C bracket for anyone who may need it. I am a Vintage Air dealer so I will make them for my installations and anyone else who may need them. I am sourcing the multiple groove pulleys in case There is a problem getting them. Will keep everyone posted. Looks like the headers will be 1 3/4 diameter into a 3 1/2" collector, but things may change when I get started. John
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  #14  
Old August 24th, 2016, 02:49 AM
3/4ton Randy 3/4ton Randy is offline
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Default Re: '63 Fenderside in Colorado

HotRodJohn, that is great about the Vintage Air set up your are working on. Folks in Texas need Air Conditioning!
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  #15  
Old August 24th, 2016, 05:45 AM
John Mann John Mann is offline
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Default Re: '63 Fenderside in Colorado

Rod, TJ, thanks for your advice. I got both the clutch and flywheel out, no problem. A couple surprises. When I dropped the flywheel dustcover, there were a couple pieces of metal plus 3 bolts laying in it. I have no clue where they came from.

I used my floor jack with a piece of 2x6 on it to freeze the crank while I unbolted the flywheel. It also was my "helper" to ease the flywheel down until I could get a good grasp to remove it.

The throughout bearing plus the little one are both shot. They are rough to turn, and make a lot of noise.

I think Charles Atlas and Hulk Hogan teamed up to put that flywheel on. The bolts were really hard to break loose. I still feel that in my elbow.
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  #16  
Old August 24th, 2016, 05:50 AM
John Mann John Mann is offline
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Default Re: '63 Fenderside in Colorado

Ken, I drive through Sedalia occasionally, and go to Denver often. PM me and we can get together sometime.

I'll be doing a build thread soon.

John
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  #17  
Old August 24th, 2016, 06:11 AM
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Default Re: '63 Fenderside in Colorado

The flywheel bolts are torqued to 100 foot pounds. haha
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  #18  
Old August 24th, 2016, 01:59 PM
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Default Re: '63 Fenderside in Colorado

John,

Although I have the Automatic transmission (Hydra-matic), I've added some pictures do you can see the internals. The really ONE nice thing GMC did was to place the bolt holes for the flywheel slightly off center on one set. With most flywheels you need to carefully mark where the flywheel meets the crank, so they line up again. With GMC they made two of the hole different, so you cannot screw it up. You'll notice I too made the line-up point, as I did not know this.

The crank weight in at about 45-50lbs, and is a ONE PIECE CAST. You'll need to put a block to catch the weight when you remove it, won't damage the teeth that way. IF you think getting the flywheel off is hard, try the 4 bolts hold the auto adaptor plate to the block, you have to work between the flywheel and the plate with a very shallow socket. (of course I did not have one - one more trip to the store).

In one of the pic where I'm ready to mount the trans to the block, you see an inspection/bolt hole access hatch on top of the bell housing. This is where the torque converter gets bolted up to the flywheel, 35-36 bolts, talk about a knuckle buster - my hands are big, so it was a real pain to get these in. Steve Lorio and his son from New Orleans helped me get these in.

ALSO, I don't care what engine stand you have use a 4x4 brace under the from of the block. I have an extreme heave steel engine stand, I still used the brace.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 4x4 brace.jpg (74.0 KB, Multiple views, 9 clicks)
File Type: jpg Flywheel to crank.jpg (70.1 KB, Multiple views, 8 clicks)
File Type: jpg Flywheel.jpg (93.7 KB, Multiple views, 9 clicks)
File Type: jpg Trans adaptor plate.jpg (72.9 KB, Multiple views, 9 clicks)
File Type: jpg Trans mate to block.jpg (82.4 KB, Multiple views, 9 clicks)

Last edited by jbgroby; August 24th, 2016 at 02:19 PM.
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  #19  
Old August 24th, 2016, 03:07 PM
John Mann John Mann is offline
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Default Re: '63 Fenderside in Colorado

Disassembly is being so much fun. Can't wait until it's time to reassemble!

JB--I can do the 4x4 block, but the engine stand I got is from JEGS, says it is rated to 2,000lbs.

One surprise on tight bolts, or I should say not-tight bolts. I was not looking forward to unbolting the exhaust manifolds, thinking they would be prone to shearing the bolt heads off. But it was the opposite. They were snug at best, and two were only finger tight. One was missing (aft most, right side). The manifold on that cylinder (I think that would be #6) is white.

PS, all my photos load rotated to the left 90 degrees. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or is that how it works posting photos?
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