fender mounting

[jbgroby]

I'm a devil of a time getting the front fender(s) on aligned. I've attached a few pictures for your review and am needed to ask the following STUPID questions.


From what I can see and tell it seems as though the entire from inner fender are sitting correctly and I installed the rad support with the supplied washers in the OEM manual correct order.


Having said that, the lower rear of the of the ps fender is laying past the rocker panel and door edge. All the other holes are lined up along the top of the fender where she meets the inner fender,same for the holes for the font clip (bar bell support) etc.


In my VERY limited experience it seems as though the entire from of the truck needs to be raised about 1/2 inch? IS this common? Is it because more shims are needed under the rad support?


Any pointers you can give would be great.

[donrm]

Are these the original or after market fenders. If original you can add shims or thick washers where the core support mounts on the bracket. Keep in mind to loosen the inner fender where it bolts to the firewall. By doing this it will allow
you to raise it without binding things.One thing you should do is use 3/4" tape on the front edge of the door &rear edge of fender to protect the NEW paint.
Good luck but take your time! Donrm Cinti oh. 1966 GMC 351E

[jbgroby]

The fenders are OEM restored as well as the rad support and entire front clip.

I'm going to try to raise the rad support tomorrow. I see where that 'should' bring the lower rear of the fender out some. The bolts that came with the new aftermarket rad bolt kit are 2" long x 7/16" carriage bolts. Home Depot does not stock 7/16 bolts, they sell nuts but no bolts -go figure!

I'll need to stop at a real hardware store to get some, I will get 3-4" long bolts and extra 1/8"or1/4" washers. I can't be the only member who has had this issue. I sent a detailed email to "Tony" of 4-5-6 Chevy Trucks. He has put more trucks together than anyone I know.

I loosened all the bolts from the firewall to the rad support to give me some play. I will also loosen the cab mounts as well to let the cab 'float' a bit, maybe I've over compressed them.

I'm going to line up the rear of the fender to the cab and work the front of the fender 'hopefully' into position. Maybe that will do it? If push comes to trample I 'll need to get a local body and fender man to work the front clip.

So close!!!!

Thanks
Jake
Lacombe, LA.

[donrm]

Yes, originally a carriage bolt is used on the core support. Good luck finding the nuts. Dorm
Cinti, oh 1966 GMC 351E

[WDShaffer]

You are not missing a core support bushing, are you? They are about 5/8" thick I think.

[jbgroby]

Don't really know, but I have enough washers to make up the difference, plus the rubber washers that came with the kit.

I spoke to a member who has done this before. I am supposed to mount the rear of the fender on the 3 rear most locations (2) upper air plenum and front pillar post and one lower cab mount location. This are fixed points and cannot move (so to speak) you leave them loose. Then adjust the front of the rad support as needed. Once everything is close. Start at the rear and slowly tighten ALL the bolts on a cris-cross pattern.

I got all excited and was ready to mount and discovered that the lower inner bolt location will need to be re-drilled and tapped. I need to step up to 7/16nc14 and will need to drill a 25/64th. pilot hole for the tap - anticipation is making me crazy.

I was a cussin' the cheap harbor freight tap setI bought, Friday I'm hitting sears for a decent one.

Jake

[donrm]

I believe you do need to raise your core support, but remember when you raise
the c/s at the same time leave the inner fender bolts loose. You will have to shim the inner fender at the firewall,only the bottom bolts of the inner fender.
Give it a try & let me know. I believe the core support may be off a bit beings it is after market piece? Donrm Cinti. Oh 1966 GMC 351E

[donrm]

Sorry, I goofed. I thought your c/s was after market. Donrm

[Vernski]

Hi Jake do you have a factory assembly manual, it may have something on the core support as to how many spacers and washers it requires. I had to put each bolt in and barley start the threads and move things around so the bolt holes would line up as they allow movement in each direction up,down and back,forward. Sometimes it's like Murphy's law and it's nice to have help with it while your under the truck though. Good luck with it...Vernski:lolflag:

[Andice]

Jake: I am in the middle of the same situation as we speak. I've used quite a few washers as shims to raise the radiator core and the front of the fenders. Look down the side of your truck as well and follow the contour line at the door crease - the one that transitions into the top of the front fender. You may see a dip there as well as a the fender "tail" extending past the front edge of the rocker panel. Slap a few washers/spacers in there and take your time.

[donrm]

I just noticed you mentioned you had your oem fenders restored. If the rear bottom section of the fenders were rusted out & the lower rear panel was replaced, when I restored my fenders,I replaced that section of my fender! As I
replaced that piece of the fender, I welded the section, re mounted the fender into place, then did all the body work to the fender while mounted on the truck.
If your fender was restored off the truck,you may never get it to align correctly.
I hope the fender was finished on the truck if that section was replaced.Donrm
1966 GMC 351E Cinti. Ohio Let us know how things are going.

[jbgroby]

HI and thanks,

the fenders were repaired before I got them but only the rear side brace. I think we got it, but will know saturday

[Andice]

Here is how things looked today after adjusting doors, fenders, cowl panels and installing front bumper.

[jbgroby]

looks great.

[jbgroby]

Working to get the correct sized bolt for the lower rear mount. I'm going to have to possible re-tap the hole. I'll need to re-drill to 25/64th. and re-tap for 7/16nc14 The problem is finding the correct bolt in packs of 1-5 McMaster Carr has 25 pks. Anybody body need 24 bolts?

I'm think I'll JB weld a blind nut in the hole and go with that? One lousy bolt is holding up this project!

Being **** retentive is a curse

[WDShaffer]

I had to do that on one of my fender bolts, too. I found a threaded insert like the kind used in woodworking with a shoulder in the outside, drilled out the hole a little (exiting blind nut had broken off inside that formed column), and tack-welded the edges so it will do its job. So far, so good.

[jbgroby]

FINALLY, Ok after fighting with trying to get the correct sized drill bit, tap and bolt. This is what we came up with, once I put the insert in the hole with JBWELD I have a hard time imagining it not holding.

[WDShaffer]

:goodjob: Salvaged another one! Looks like it will last another 50 years+

[jbgroby]

thank you