Sm318 Transmission Plugs and Transfer case plugs

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Does anyone know which of these plugs does what?

I ran into a real nasty problem today on the way home. When I let off the gas it skreeched like rubbing metal any time the transmission wasn't under load.
Push in the clutch = SKREEEEEEEECH!
Get off the gas to slow down = SKREEEEEEECHHH!!!

Push gas to go = Normal

I think I might have squirted water in the transfer case when I was cleaning it with a pressure washer so maybe I just need to change the fluid? If so I don't know which bolt lookin thing is which. :ahhhh:

Transfer case:

http://windypix.com/?dm=B5TQ.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=B5TQ)





Tranny:

http://windypix.com/?dm=FLW0.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=FLW0)



Thanks in advance!

[raycow]

The noise with the clutch pushed in worries me more than anything else. Take off the bellhousing bottom cover and have a helper start the engine and push in the clutch while you watch from underneath.

What can you see happening with the release bearing? Is it seized? Does the bearing collar try to spin in the fork? Is there anything else that doesn't look right?

Ray

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Thanks Ray

I don't know what the bearing collar is but I found the bellhousing cover. Right next to it I found this spring lying on the crossmember. Any clue what it might go to? It's heavier than a carb spring. The rust on it makes it look kinda yellow under the camera but it's all rust.

http://windypix.com/?dm=1W1S.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=1W1S)





I got the bellhousing cover off and it looks like this, covered in grime and oil of some sort. Click any link for a bigger image:

http://windypix.com/?dm=C7D0.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=C7D0)





I'm guessing the collar is the thing this fork holds on to?

http://windypix.com/?dm=KYRO.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=KYRO)





I pushed the clutch in with a 2' long board and it moved engine direction to the front of the engine.

http://windypix.com/?dm=2NHS.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=2NHS)




It didnt seem to spin or act funny to my untrained eye. Also I didn't hear the skreeching noise either. That seems to only happen when I'm coasting in neutral or when I'm letting the engine slow the truck down while coasting.

:confused:

[GMCDAC]

The throwout bearing is the part the fork is holding on to and the collar is that sleeve bolted to the transmission that the throwout bearing is sliding on. Besides the oil leak everything looks pretty good and your pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel have no oil on them so that is good! Does the oily stuff smell like gear lube? The part of the throwout bearing you can see won't spin unless the bearing is seized up in any position. The bearing part of it you cant see here pushes the pressure plate arms to disengage the clutch when you push the pedal.

That spring looks like a clutch return spring. Your clutch pedal should return clear up including a little pedal free play. If there is no free play the pedal is riding lightly on the throwout bearing causing it to spin all the time, and it should only spin when the pedal starts getting pressed past the freeplay. Usually the spring attaches to the fork outside the bell housing and then will hook to the frame somewhere.

Hopefully one of the V-6 gurus will post a pic of the clutch return spring position for you. I can only show you one on an I-6.

Later---DAC

[GMCDAC]

Just for reference, here are pics of a clutch fork and throwout bearing from a 1964 Chevy pickup. They probably aren't identical but they do the same job as what you are showing.

Later---DAC

[raycow]

I don't know what the bearing collar is but I found the bellhousing cover. Right next to it I found this spring lying on the crossmember. Any clue what it might go to? It's heavier than a carb spring. The rust on it makes it look kinda yellow under the camera but it's all rust.

I got the bellhousing cover off and it looks like this, covered in grime and oil of some sort. Click any link for a bigger image:

I'm guessing the collar is the thing this fork holds on to?

I pushed the clutch in with a 2' long board and it moved engine direction to the front of the engine.

It didnt seem to spin or act funny to my untrained eye. Also I didn't hear the skreeching noise either. That seems to only happen when I'm coasting in neutral or when I'm letting the engine slow the truck down while coasting.


I agree on the fork return spring. This is supposed to pull the bearing away from the pressure plate fingers so it doesn't spin when your foot is off the pedal.
Am I the only one here who thinks the inner end of the clutch fork is too far forward in both the engaged and disengaged positions?

Ray

[GMCDAC]

Yeah, Ray, I agree with that angle, but didnt want to jump to conclusions since I can only look at an I 6 truck. Too short of a throwout bearing?

Later---DAC

[BarryGMC]

http://https://thumbp7-bf1.mail.yahoo.com/tn?sid=18014403457084361&mid=AHvci2IAABZBUiN6IQ0mCSb43Ec&midoffset=2_0_0_6_3705&partid=2&f=1608&fid=%2540B%2540Bulk&fullscan=1&w=800&h=800. Here is a picture of the clutch return spring spring there is a hole in the frame and at the outside edge of the arm. The gmc and Chevy are the same.

[BarryGMC]

Well that did not work! Let me see if I can attach it again. The fact that it only happens under a coasting load while moving always leads me to the intermediate shaft in the Rockwell and spicer 18 cases. There is usually a grumbly or rough gear sound under power that is usually assumed to be normal as there is a lot of noise from the engine , and the rest of the drivetrain. Drain the oil and look to see if there is any metal in it.

[BarryGMC]

http://6066gmcclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=636&stc=1&d=1378058731

[raycow]

Yeah, Ray, I agree with that angle, but didnt want to jump to conclusions since I can only look at an I 6 truck. Too short of a throwout bearing?
That's what I was wondering, or maybe a too-short ballstud. They are made in different lengths for Chevys, but I don't know if that's also true for GMC.

Ray

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Thanks guys. That clutch return spring, does anyone have a pic of where it hooks on to the fork? I didn't see any other piece like shown in Barry's pic. I guess I can bend a coathanger and make it fit on the spring. Could it be that the spring being off is causing a screeching?

[BarryGMC]

It's on the end right by the rod. You could go get a longer spring. That's why I showed you the length. Maybe the sqeek is from this but you should be able to recreate it when not moving.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Ok guys I put the spring on it like this but it still made the squealy noise. I did find out that it's not making the noise in the transfer case so it's got to be tranny related. I drained it today and prepared to remove it.

I've got the linkage off and I figured out how to get the shaft between the transmission and the Rockwell out. The transmission though, does it bolt to the flywheel or just those two bolts on the crossmember?

[BarryGMC]

Before you take it out put the t case in neutral and try to recreate the sounds. Take a 3/8 dowel about two feet long. Have someone run the truck and while they run it listen to the trans all over . You use the dowel as a listening stick. Put one end in your ear and the other end at the point you want to listen to. Now don't laugh you will be amazed at what you hear. You can practice on your valve train . Move along the valve covers. Listen and compare areas. Every rig I buy that runs gets the stick treatment. I have two one is about two feet and the other is about 5. I actually jack up the driving axels and run it and listen to everything, front to back. You would be amazed with a little practice how you can identify a failing or failed bearing and locate it.

[GMCDAC]

Ok guys I put the spring on it like this but it still made the squealy noise. I did find out that it's not making the noise in the transfer case so it's got to be tranny related. I drained it today and prepared to remove it.

I've got the linkage off and I figured out how to get the shaft between the transmission and the Rockwell out. The transmission though, does it bolt to the flywheel or just those two bolts on the crossmember?

Hey, Fetch, no the tranny doesn't bolt to the flywheel. The transmission input shaft pokes through the clutch disk that is between the flywheel and pressure plate. You may have to clean some grease up to see it but the transmission may have 2 bottom bolts through the bellhousing from the flywheel side into the transmission case. They may go from the outside in also, but I have never dealt with a 3 speed in one of these trucks. Then you probably will have to take out the transmission hump inside of the cab to get at the top two bolts that go through the transmission case into the bell housing. The '62 K2500 I had was a 4speed so I can't tell you exactly what to do but all standard tranny engines have a bellhousing that bolts to the engine block, then the transmission bolts to the bellhousing in some form, usually 4 bolts. The two bolts on the crossmember are the bellhousing mounts that hold up the rear of the engine and support the transmission.

Later---DAC

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Before you take it out put the t case in neutral and try to recreate the sounds. Take a 3/8 dowel about two feet long. Have someone run the truck and while they run it listen to the trans all over . You use the dowel as a listening stick. Put one end in your ear and the other end at the point you want to listen to. Now don't laugh you will be amazed at what you hear. You can practice on your valve train . Move along the valve covers. Listen and compare areas. Every rig I buy that runs gets the stick treatment. I have two one is about two feet and the other is about 5. I actually jack up the driving axels and run it and listen to everything, front to back. You would be amazed with a little practice how you can identify a failing or failed bearing and locate it.


I thought of that too! I put it in neutral today when I was trying to narrow it down. It still made the noise even when I wasn't rolling when I pushed the clutch in. I didn't know about the stick trick though. I'll be putting that one in my bag of tricks :D

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Hey, Fetch, no the tranny doesn't bolt to the flywheel. The transmission input shaft pokes through the clutch disk that is between the flywheel and pressure plate. You may have to clean some grease up to see it but the transmission may have 2 bottom bolts through the bellhousing from the flywheel side into the transmission case. They may go from the outside in also, but I have never dealt with a 3 speed in one of these trucks. Then you probably will have to take out the transmission hump inside of the cab to get at the top two bolts that go through the transmission case into the bell housing. The '62 K2500 I had was a 4speed so I can't tell you exactly what to do but all standard tranny engines have a bellhousing that bolts to the engine block, then the transmission bolts to the bellhousing in some form, usually 4 bolts. The two bolts on the crossmember are the bellhousing mounts that hold up the rear of the engine and support the transmission.

Later---DAC


Got it! I'll take those two out tomorrow and try to get at the other four if my time doesn't run out. Kids are out again tomorrow so I should be free. If I can get it dropped out and look at the bearings, clutch etc I'm hoping I can see something obvious that needs fixing.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I got the transmission off today (4 semi-easy bolts) but the bellhousing is giving me fits. :pullinghairout::pullinghairout::pullinghairout:

I got the crossmember bolts out and fought to get the other four out, but it still acts like it's not free.
i took loose the clutch piston thingy (hydraulics) too and the bottom bolt of the starter. Still not budging. Am I missing something or should I just put a jack under it and heave ho?

[BarryGMC]

F.M.A.P. Dont pull the bell-housing. First its what supports the back of the engine. second you can fully service the clutch, through the bottom and bearing index hole.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Barry! Thanks for coming back. :yourock:

Ok, so the bell housing doesn't come off for this job, but how do I get the pilot bearing out? I don't wanna jam a finger in there and accidentally shove some dirt inside the engine. Does the hole go all the way into the engine parts?

I guess I can clean the bell housing up when I pull the engine for painting and do it all at once.

I fiddled around with it and got the clutch to fall out on my hand (Ow!). This is what it looked like. Is it too thin?

http://windypix.com/?dm=4OHL.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=4OHL)

[BarryGMC]

The hole does not go into the engine. I have a small piece of 3/8 pipe with a cap on one end with a zert fitting . I filed some grooves perpendicular to the threads about 3 threads up, like a tap. I turn this into the bushing or bearing and use the grease gun pressure to force the thing out. Or you can use a slide hammer with a hook on the end and bang away.

[raycow]

I run a 5/8"-18 tap all the way into the bushing. When the tap hits bottom I keep on turning it and the tap pulls the bushing out of the crank. If you have a bearing instead of a bushing you will have to use a slide hammer.

Ray

[BarryGMC]

Here I made it easy for you. The 12 inch clutch found in the bigger trucks is a direct replacement for the 11 inch found in the smaller trucks and most of the 4000 series trucks. Its a New Generation clutch kit PN# 04-528 This kit us complete with disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing. roller style pilot bearing, and alignment tool. My local vendor actually has a few in stock. so for about 2 bills your good to go. BTW i did the same clutch in my 65 last year, and a chevy 12 inch in my 348 v8 420 trans 60 chevy truck a few years back. BLC

[tommyduncan]

Here I made it easy for you. The 12 inch clutch found in the bigger trucks is a direct replacement for the 11 inch found in the smaller trucks and most of the 4000 series trucks. Its a New Generation clutch kit PN# 04-528 This kit us complete with disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing. roller style pilot bearing, and alignment tool. My local vendor actually has a few in stock. so for about 2 bills your good to go. BTW i did the same clutch in my 65 last year, and a chevy 12 inch in my 348 v8 420 trans 60 chevy truck a few years back. BLC:yourock:...and the 348 truck sounds cool!

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Ordering this week! Thanks again Barry. Everything I read said they weren't sold anywhere anymore.

[tommyduncan]

Here I made it easy for you. The 12 inch clutch found in the bigger trucks is a direct replacement for the 11 inch found in the smaller trucks and most of the 4000 series trucks. Its a New Generation clutch kit PN# 04-528 This kit us complete with disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing. roller style pilot bearing, and alignment tool. My local vendor actually has a few in stock. so for about 2 bills your good to go. BTW i did the same clutch in my 65 last year, and a chevy 12 inch in my 348 v8 420 trans 60 chevy truck a few years back. BLC
I just met a guy today that has a Chevy truck with a 348... never knew there was such a thing 24 hours ago and now I've heard of two of them!

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Well I ordered the clutch kit from the 3rd party seller on Amazon. They emailed me the next day and said, "Yes, it shipped out today. I'll have a tracking number for you soon"

Today I got an email that said "Sorry this item is not in stock and the last one was damaged so they arent making them anymore." That's great customer service, right? Lie to me first, then fess up when you get caught.:noway:

Their info is
CarPartKings
888-501-6588
Located in New York
Rating 1 star out of 5.

I should have a refund by Wednesday or Thursday so I'll start shopping again then. :(

[BarryGMC]

What were they charging? I have one. And another ordered.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

it ended up being 214.00 shipped. I've got one lined up for $150 now HA HA take that Car Part Queens!:yes:

[BarryGMC]

Still wondering what was squealing?

[FetchMeAPepsi]

yes, Im thinking it was the throwout bearing because of the shiny spots on the three fingers of the pressure plate? IDK if that's what its called. Here's a pic

http://windypix.com/?dm=QC8M.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=QC8M)





If that was it then this clutch kit will fix the problem. Is there something I should check inside the transmission?

And is it supposed to leak fluid out of the tail piece a little or is that a bad seal?

[BarryGMC]

Dang a whole post written then splat. Dead like a bug. The clutch spins at say 2000 rpm and the bearing is at 0 when the two touch there is some slippage. This is normal and causes the polishing you see. The noise you described sounds more like a cluster gear problem. These little 3 speeds are not to robust and when they get a bit low on oil things can go haywire. Now you need to visualize the load in, float ,and deceleration load. Each makes a distinct sound. So do the problems. It's like a loose rod bearing in an engine makes most noise in the float. It rattles. Not so much under load in and out. Now this is why you always look at the oil when you drain it. A bright light is helpfull. Does it look really dark? Or is it metallic looking? And if so brassy or silver? These things tell you a lot. You need to investigate these things. Maybe look at a drawing of your trans to help visualize what is going on in there. And no this thing should not leak. If it was mine I would open her up and at least check it out.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

It was dark, VERY dark. There were some silver bits down around the bottom, but just a little dusting. Enough to cover your finger tip with a light coating. I've seen more in a modern oil drain plug so I wasn't concerned.

To open it up I just pop off the bolts on the front and the ones on the side? I'm worried about a bunch of springs and gears flying out at me

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I jumped the gun and opened both front portions. Nothing seemed weird to me

http://windypix.com/?dm=Y940.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=Y940)
http://windypix.com/?dm=C0CO.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=C0CO)





The pilot bearing was discolored from heat. Do you think that's the issue? There wasn't much (if any) grease in the pocket. It took 12 fingertip fulls to fill it up during my tries to remove it.

http://windypix.com/?dm=NSWS.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=NSWS)

[BarryGMC]

Input shaft bearing looks bad

[BarryGMC]

the bearing should look like this

[BarryGMC]

the input shaft gear or clutch gear or whatever you want to call it. Its the gear in the front of the trans behind the input shaft bearing. looks to be to far forward. Its been a while since I have worked on a 318 so I will tell you what I recall. Biggest problem. Input shaft bearing fails from lack of lubrication and high loading. cluster gear thrust bearings fail from high torque load. v8 and 4x4 mostly. 2nd gear problems always seem prevalent. mainshaft needle bearings cook because of no lubrication. You know what the gears usually dont look to bad. So I already see 2 problems from your pics. This is why I dont work on these any more. its easier to put a 420 in its place. Barry

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I'll take some better pics today. I can't buy a new trans ($400-600?!?!) so I'm kinda stuck with what I have for now. Maybe I can pick up a cheap replacement trans and replace the input shaft? After I take new pics see if you still think it's bad. The rebuild kit includes front bearings if that makes a difference.

I tried to pull the flywheel too and couldn't figure out how to get to the bolts in it without removing the bellhousing (assuming the center threads I see from the back are the bolts that need removing). is there a trick to it?

[tommyduncan]

I can't help you with the tranny but the flywheel is held on by the center bolts right in the middle of where the clutch was. They are all facing the trans so shouldn't be a problem. Turning the engine with a big socket might give you better access to them as you go.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Tommy, so these things that look like welded on nuts (cross cut in the center) are bolt heads instead? Or is my flywheel in backwards? :lolsmack:

http://windypix.com/?dm=KC84.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=KC84)

[tommyduncan]

Tommy, so these things that look like welded on nuts (cross cut in the center) are bolt heads instead? Or is my flywheel in backwards? :lolsmack:

http://windypix.com/?dm=KC84.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=KC84)
That's them!

Here are some not very good pics of mine in the mud. (It never rains here, except like crazy for the last month ...off and on).
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa249/tommyd1963/IMG_20130915_064603_691_zps8227a36a.jpg
Engine stand is in the way but that is what it bolts to

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa249/tommyd1963/IMG_20130915_064614_164_zpscd21631e.jpg
Another picture for perspective

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa249/tommyd1963/IMG_20130915_064646_502_zps4fa4488c.jpg

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa249/tommyd1963/IMG_20130915_064722_432_zps3b909482.jpg
Dirty skungy bell housing... corrosion protection!

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa249/tommyd1963/IMG_20130915_064742_127_zpsa7caf5c4.jpg
Another... the pic isn't upside down, the bell housing is!

About this time my dogs started barking, thinking I was the bellhousing bandit! Don't wanna wake up my sleeping beauty on a Sunday morning... Shhhh!

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I dunno Tommy. Mine have a hole where the bolt should be solid in the pic. See where it's cross cut? I think that's a nut and not a bolt head. I'm worried they're wrong-side out.

I took more pics of the innards today. Hopefully they'll narrow the problem down.

http://windypix.com/?dm=YNAA.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=YNAA)
http://windypix.com/?dm=Z7XR.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=Z7XR)
http://windypix.com/?dm=39IJ.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=39IJ)
http://windypix.com/?dm=YCOX.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=YCOX)
http://windypix.com/?dm=SRS9.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=SRS9)
http://windypix.com/?dm=TQD1.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=TQD1)
http://windypix.com/?dm=BCE8.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=BCE8)

[BarryGMC]

Does. The input shaft move in and out ? In the first picture the clutch gear appears more forward also the inner race looks like it has some scoring on the front. Spray it down with some carb cleaner and put more light on it and post a pic. Also clean the inside of the bearing retainer and post a pic of the back.

[BarryGMC]

Those are the 6 flywheel bolts. They are not nuts.

[tommyduncan]

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa249/tommyd1963/IMG_20130915_141616_084_zps10ebeb2c.jpg

[FetchMeAPepsi]

That's the craziest camouflaged bolts I've ever heard of!

Sorry for being hard-headed. it's the Scot in me. I'll get them suckers off:whipit: Kids were a handful today so I'll get more pics once the kids are gone tomorrow. :thumbsup:

[raycow]

If you are going to check the input shaft bearing for endplay, re-install the bearing retainer first. If you don't, you can pull the shaft out far enough to lose the needle bearings inside it, and you really don't want to have to re-install those.

Ray

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Thanks ray. I cant get it to move in any direction (up down side to side) except only a very tiny amount in and out, even that might be imagination it's so small

Here are a couple of pics of the race again. They still don't show the shiny surface well. it's smooth as a baby's butt inside. there are no scuffs, scratches, or anything on the outside either besides the texturing on the base where the screws go.

also theres black spots where I oversprayed with ospho. i'll get that polished off when I can work on it again. it comes off with a fingernail.

http://windypix.com/?dm=LH8J.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=LH8J)
http://windypix.com/?dm=3OD9.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=3OD9)

[raycow]

This last part you are depicting is the bearing retainer. The "races" are the grooved inner and outer rings in the ball bearing that the ***** run against.

Interesting - the censorship software allows one to say "ball", but not the plural.

Ray

[FetchMeAPepsi]

This last part you are depicting is the bearing retainer. The "races" are the grooved inner and outer rings in the ball bearing that the ***** run against.

Interesting - the censorship software allows one to say "ball", but not the plural.

Ray

so the race is kinda like the "track" they roll around in..racetrack. makes sense now. Thanks!

I ordered the clutch plate and bearings again today. Hopefully they'll be here by Friday and i can start putting things back together. I'm hurtin for a ride in my baby :(

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I've started the rebuild but I'm having trouble with this part here. Those race things won't come off! :insane:

http://windypix.com/?dm=F7MR.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=F7MR)



Any idea how I get them off? My replacements are slick inside so I assume they're not screwed down or anything. I put them in a vice and beat on them but still they're in there pretty solid. :(

[BarryGMC]

You need a press to remove and install that bearing. The tools you need are a press and some plates bored to the proper diameters, or some split plates that get a good purchase on the bearing. Snap ring pliers are a must have also. You should find a service manual. The factory manuals are nice but MOTORS. Truck and diesel repair manual work well and give you the perspective of how common most of the old stuff is between makes. 21st to 24th editions cover these old rigs. You can buy these used online all day . Barry.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Brother Barry to the rescue again! :yourock:

So there's nothing holding that race on but imagination and pressure right? I got the other one off that is deep inside the tranny tail with a little persuasion. That threaded collar thing that just sits above the rear bearing threw me for a loop. I twisted on that thing forever before I realized it was just mashed on :lolsmack:

I'm about ready for the writeup in my build thread. All I have left is that stupid race at the front. If I can figure out a way to get it off without a press I'll be golden. If not I might have to hire shop. The only press I have belongs to the wife and does Paninis.:yeeuh:

Back to work I go! I gotta finish before Friday. Inlaws are making a surprise visit at 8am :ahhhh:

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I got it all apart and back together save the little needle bearings. Those things are not well engineered. They should have put them in a race too IMHO.

Just hopped on here because it's 1am and I"m taking a break. My back is killin me from liftin that thing over and over trying to line it up! :lolsmack:

And I'm a little delirious.:crazy::guitar: Must have coffee....:morecoffee:

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Well today was a little better. I didn't pull the bottom gears out of the transmission, but I did change all the needle bearings, seals, and the two races. I couldn't figure out how to get the bottom of the tranny apart. I hope there's nothing in there that needs fiddling with.

I had a heck of a time getting the sliding collar thing (that has a second, thinner sliding collar thing on it) back on the tail section. Then tonight it just slid right in like buttah.

http://media.celebremix.com/5/mediaFiles/remix/741/8110.jpg

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I went out today and started reassembly but the trans seems to be locked up. It "unlocks" when I unscrew the tailshaft bolts about 1/2 inch and crack the case again.
I can't tell what's binding it either. Here's a pic of my innards. Does anything look suspicious to you guys?

http://windypix.com/?dm=E86Z.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=E86Z)





The collar thing slides pretty easily all the way to the bottom of the tailshaft when it's out
:headscratch::headscratch::headscratch:
http://windypix.com/?dm=PV2P.jpg (http://windypix.com/?pm=PV2P)

[Rockdriller]

I am a bit turned around after this read.....I used to have a clue.....an' now I'm wondering if [I] do but maybe I don't.
Is it possible you mean the input shaft when yer saying tailshaft...?

Also....for the record....FYI....
When working with the needle brgs in the main shaft...if you clean everything up with brake cleaner or hot solvent....you can wipe some assembly grease or even brg. grease on the shaft and then stick the needle bearings to it. They'll stay right there while you put things together...and won't give you any trouble.
The flip side to that is to grease the other side (female side ) of the shaft and stick the needles in there....and then assemble...

Good luck,....

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I am a bit turned around after this read.....I used to have a clue.....an' now I'm wondering if [I] do but maybe I don't.
Is it possible you mean the input shaft when yer saying tailshaft...?

Also....for the record....FYI....
When working with the needle brgs in the main shaft...if you clean everything up with brake cleaner or hot solvent....you can wipe some assembly grease or even brg. grease on the shaft and then stick the needle bearings to it. They'll stay right there while you put things together...and won't give you any trouble.
The flip side to that is to grease the other side (female side ) of the shaft and stick the needles in there....and then assemble...

Good luck,....

That's possible. I don't know what anything is called really. I'm learning as I go. What I'm calling the tailshaft is the bolted on piece on the end of the transmission. It has five bolts and ends in a pointy bit with a seal on the end of it. The driveshaft goes into that.

I used bearing grease to stick the needles on the shaft. :) It worked pretty good.

[raycow]

I think you may have the transmission stuck in two gears at one time, which will lock up the entire gearset. The piece with 6 external splines and a thin ring at the front end is the 2-3 shift sleeve. GM calls it a clutch. The large gear which slides on the outside of the 2-3 sleeve is the low and reverse sliding gear.

Both parts appear to be all the way at the rear end of their travel, which puts you in 2nd and reverse at the same time. Slide the L&R gear forward so it is not touching any gears on its bottom side and see if that frees up the mainshaft. At that point you will still be in 2nd, so slide the 2-3 sleeve forward until it disengages from 2nd gear (2nd is the gear immediately to the rear of the 2-3 sleeve), which should put you in neutral.

Ray

[Rockdriller]

I think you may have the transmission stuck in two gears at one time, which will lock up the entire gearset. The piece with 6 external splines and a thin ring at the front end is the 2-3 shift sleeve. GM calls it a clutch. The large gear which slides on the outside of the 2-3 sleeve is the low and reverse sliding gear.

Both parts appear to be all the way at the rear end of their travel, which puts you in 2nd and reverse at the same time. Slide the L&R gear forward so it is not touching any gears on its bottom side and see if that frees up the mainshaft. At that point you will still be in 2nd, so slide the 2-3 sleeve forward until it disengages from 2nd gear (2nd is the gear immediately to the rear of the 2-3 sleeve), which should put you in neutral.

Ray
Good eye....