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kaneerarchery
September 2nd, 2013, 03:32 PM
I recently purchased a 1966 GMC that has rust on the cab roof interior between the roof and the windshield. The roof is rusted at the drip rails and I am sure that is why the rust started. I mig weld and have replaced patch panels on other vehicles. Repair panels are available for 1960-1963 but i could not find any yet for a 1966. Could I make the repair panel for 60-63 work, does someone know where I could get 1966 cab roof repair patch panels, or should I make my own panels? Will I need to rework my windshield pillars? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

sclor
September 6th, 2013, 02:08 PM
That is a tough place to repair rust in a cab. If you see pictures, the inside of that roof had no rust protection from the factory. Just bare steel. When the seam sealant in the rain gutters fails, water soaks its way through the seam in the rain gutters and causes extensive damage. Best solution is if you can find another cab. Some folks have taken off the outer roof panel so they can get in there to repair and treat the inner panel, but that is a difficult job with a lot of spot welds around the rain gutter to be drilled out. With the new urethane panel adhesives, putting the roof back on isn't too difficult. A few pictures might help to understand what you are up against. I would poke around quite a bit with an ice pick to see how much metal is left.

Hope this is helpful.
Regards,
Steve
New Orleans

FetchMeAPepsi
September 6th, 2013, 11:04 PM
I bought three cans of Kents Interior Rustproofer for my roof after reading about it somewhere. It has an extension tube that makes squirting it on everything in there pretty easy.

http://kent-automotive.com/Kent/Inner-Panel-Rustproofer/P60305.lp

kaneerarchery
September 9th, 2013, 01:58 AM
I will try to post some photos of the damage.

kaneerarchery
September 9th, 2013, 02:05 AM
1 photo at a time.

sclor
September 9th, 2013, 02:08 AM
That is what I was afraid of. That is kinda ugly. Usually when that seam lets water in it runs down inside the cab and rots out what is below it as well since the inside of that metal doesn't have any rust protection from the factory. Do you have rust on the rockers, floor, kick panels as well? Usually with what I see, I would recommend swapping in a new cab that is in better shape. GMC cabs use a different dash board than Che*y, so you need a GMC to make the swap smoothly.

Hope that helps. My brother is in the middle of swapping a Che*y cab on his C30 right now for the same reason.
Regards,
Steve
New Orleans

kaneerarchery
September 9th, 2013, 02:13 AM
Interior shot above the windshield.

kaneerarchery
September 9th, 2013, 02:19 AM
The VIN is in the cab how do I replace the cab and have a different VIN.

kaneerarchery
September 9th, 2013, 02:24 AM
I found a rust free GMC cab for 500.00 online but it is in California and I am in North Florida.

tommyduncan
September 9th, 2013, 01:50 PM
I found a rust free GMC cab for 500.00 online but it is in California and I am in North Florida.give U-ship.com a try (I think that's it.) Might cost too much but you never know.
I started with a 63 Chevy that wasn't as rusty as yours but it did have an ugly sunroof. For a liitle more than I was going to pay for a nice cab and rear fenders I bought a nicer truck. I did get lucky though!:goodluck:

FetchMeAPepsi
September 9th, 2013, 11:46 PM
The VIN is in the cab how do I replace the cab and have a different VIN.

Just rivit it on the new cab. The DMV shouldn't give you a hard time. It's been done many times before.

Vernski
September 10th, 2013, 05:28 AM
The VIN is in the cab how do I replace the cab and have a different VIN.
Each state is a little different on how they do things with vin numbers. In idaho you have to leave both vin tags intact have both inspected and they will assign
a new number for you. Some call it a rebuild vin #..Vernski:lolflag:

kaneerarchery
October 17th, 2014, 05:31 PM
I found a Junkyard that will sell a cab top for 300.00. I could get the whole cab, but it is sitting on the ground and the bottom is full of rot. The owner stated that he would cut the pillars at any point between the dash and roof. I have mig welded patch panels but I have never replaced a whole top section. I know I need to treat it like chopping a top, without making the cab shorter. Are there any tips or pointers to a thread that will help me through this part of the project.

Vintage4WD
January 22nd, 2015, 09:34 PM
Try these places which were posted by other forum members and info that I found myself for fixing roof to windshield rust areas...

http://www.fixmyrust.com/Item/1960-1963_Chevy_Pickup_Roof_to_Front_Windshield_Panel


http://www.autobodyspecialt.com

OLDTRUCKHAULER
March 3rd, 2015, 02:01 AM
KANEERARCHERY

Are you still in contact with that junkyard you were talking about in Oct. 17 '14?
I'd like to know if he has any more roof sections available, and $.

Mike OTH
1965 GMC series 1502 ramptruck

kaneerarchery
March 4th, 2015, 07:39 PM
mI ended up buying a cab from a private owner on President's day 2 weeks ago. 300.00 for the whole cab. 800 mile round trip in one day. Cab corners and rockers are bad. Large hump cab. Steering column does not have gear shift. Vin number is a 3/4 ton. Transmission hump has removable plate with floor shift hole.

kaneerarchery
March 4th, 2015, 07:50 PM
The junkyard is called Donald Dagley's Workshop.

OLDTRUCKHAULER
March 4th, 2015, 11:56 PM
kaneerarchery,

If you scored a complete cab for your truck, whatcha' gonna do with your old cab?
Would you consider sending the section that I want to use my way?
Mike OTH

kaneerarchery
March 5th, 2015, 01:54 AM
My cab is full of rust inside and out because of the rusted out area next to the drip rails. If you look at the photos at the start of this post you can see why I was looking for another cab. When I take the cab off I will post photos but it may be the summer before I am able to get it done. Randy Kaneer

kaneerarchery
March 5th, 2015, 02:10 AM
I will let you know when I am done with the cab. I need to use some of my old cab for parts. Randy Kaneer

OLDTRUCKHAULER
March 5th, 2015, 03:24 AM
Cool. From where yours is rusted would not be an issue for what I am collecting parts for.
Roughly center of the door frame top, to the back window section down to just below the fuel fill and one side to the other.
Can't tell from the pictures. Is yours a big or little window?
Wouldn't need anything that you indicated you will need.
Mike OTH

OLDTRUCKHAULER
March 5th, 2015, 03:26 AM
I'm collecting the parts as availability comes up.
Mike OTH