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Nate
September 28th, 2013, 08:27 PM
Hello Everyone,
I have rebuilt a 305E and it is on the engine stand, It has a 5 qt. pan. I installed a kit in the oil pump and it appeared to have good flow when I tested it in a pan of oil. I have the pump on the engine, oil pan installed and engine filled to proper level . I have installed a temporary gauge and run the oil pump shaft (clock wise) with a drill. I get good flow at the oil pressure fitting but when I connect the gauge (new mechanical gauge) it will not build pressure. My question:
Is it necessary for the engine to be rotating to build pressure or does it seem that I just have a bad oil pump?

Any help would be appreciated.
Nate
Southeast Kansas

BarryGMC
September 28th, 2013, 10:10 PM
Not knowing anything about this engine, I will hazard a guess. Oil pump pressure relief valve is assembled wrong or missing or maybe stuck open. ?????

Nate
September 29th, 2013, 12:47 AM
Thanks Barry,

It must have been the relief stuck open or air locked, I took the spin on oil filter off and turned the pump with a drill and it pumped out a good flow in a bucket, replaced the filter and it pumped up to 60psi, I guess that I will go with it but watch oil pickup pressure closely after a oil change.

Foley
September 29th, 2013, 09:10 PM
Nate, you mentioned taking off the spin on oil filter. Did you initially change out the cannister oil filter housing to a spin on? If so, where'd you find one? Tks

Nate
September 30th, 2013, 12:38 AM
The engine had the spin on filter when I bought it, the housing has a GMC logo on it and the number 2481665, I do not know if this is a GMC part number or a casting number. I hope this helps you.

Nate
September 30th, 2013, 01:44 AM
I just noticed that Jeannie has a excellent picture album of spin on oil filter housings, very informative, way to go Jeannie!

Foley
September 30th, 2013, 04:05 AM
Yup, there are three albums posted. It's been a big help to be able to look at all those pictures. I was wishing it would say what companies made them. Hoping to find a lead as to where I could purchase one. Thank you Nate for the part number off your housing.

705jmguy
October 1st, 2013, 02:54 AM
hi nate

would like to know where u got the main crank bearings and rod bearing for your rebuilt 305?
thanks Jm





OTE=Nate;50547]Hello Everyone,
I have rebuilt a 305E and it is on the engine stand, It has a 5 qt. pan. I installed a kit in the oil pump and it appeared to have good flow when I tested it in a pan of oil. I have the pump on the engine, oil pan installed and engine filled to proper level . I have installed a temporary gauge and run the oil pump shaft (clock wise) with a drill. I get good flow at the oil pressure fitting but when I connect the gauge (new mechanical gauge) it will not build pressure. My question:
Is it necessary for the engine to be rotating to build pressure or does it seem that I just have a bad oil pump?

Any help would be appreciated.
Nate
Southeast Kansas[/QUOTE]

Nate
October 3rd, 2013, 01:54 AM
Hi jm
The main bearings I got from Kanter Auto Products, they are a Michigan Engine Bearing MBS 2521.std. The rod bearings my machinist got from goenginepro.com and they were a Sealed Power brand, part number 2400P I looked on Rockauto web site and they also have the Sealed Power 2400P rod bearings, but do list main bearings for the 305E. The rod bearings were also std.

705jmguy
October 3rd, 2013, 11:11 AM
good morning Nate

thank you so much for your prompt reply, and for the info

as you did not need over size, I would assume that your crankshaft measured out as ok?

thanks again JM

Nate
October 4th, 2013, 01:41 PM
Hello jm

Yes the crank was good, the cylinder walls were water damaged due to the engine being vandalized before I purchased the truck, the engine was seized with severe rust and still had water standing in 2 cylinders. It was a test of patience to get the engine disassembled.
I have been told that if you have the crank turned it needs to be heat treated afterwards, I did not pursue this as machining was not needed.