Very lucky Clock/Tach EBay purchase

[Funky61]

Been a member since about 2007 and started my learning curve about these GMC's and what is considered rare and or exceptional. I have most of what I need, but this item I've only seen in some of the albums posted here by original founding members and on restored vehicles. So I have been looking around for a while.
A few days back I just happened to do my usual window internet shopping when I saw this item at a Buy-It-Now price of $-- including shipping. I thought that couldn't be right. I hit the Buy-it-Now then backed out, to make sure it included all the gauges per the description. Yep, it was real. Here are some photos. No transmitter for the tachometer and I haven't checked to see if the clock works yet.


Gauge back panel is date coded AUG 28 62

Clock is Stamped AUG 62/manufactured by Geo W. Borg Corp in Delavan, Wisconsin and also has a hand etched 10-25-63 with initials

Tachometer appears to have the correct font and says Model RC5A
and use with Model EB or WB transmitter and stamped 332 on the bottom

I believe these are accessories and not options, so dealer installed.

Rarely seen and not for sale, but photos and info for the new kids on the block who may not have seen these or been aware of there existence.

[Clarke]

Yes, very lucky... I've been looking for the same tach for several years, but I haven't done such a good job lately.

Congrats!

[jbgroby]

Your OEM setup is exactly what I followed.

[Funky61]

Thanks Clarke; keep looking cause they're still out there apparently.

Jake, I have seen THAT dash on the other forum as well and it came out great!

[bigblockv6]

Been a member since about 2007 and started my learning curve about these GMC's and what is considered rare and or exceptional. I have most of what I need, but this item I've only seen in some of the albums posted here by original founding members and on restored vehicles. So I have been looking around for a while.
A few days back I just happened to do my usual window internet shopping when I saw this item at a Buy-It-Now price of $-- including shipping. I thought that couldn't be right. I hit the Buy-it-Now then backed out, to make sure it included all the gauges per the description. Yep, it was real. Here are some photos. No transmitter for the tachometer and I haven't checked to see if the clock works yet.


Gauge back panel is date coded AUG 28 62

Clock is Stamped AUG 62/manufactured by Geo W. Borg Corp in Delavan, Wisconsin and also has a hand etched 10-25-63 with initials

Tachometer appears to have the correct font and says Model RC5A
and use with Model EB or WB transmitter and stamped 332 on the bottom

I believe these are accessories and not options, so dealer installed.

Rarely seen and not for sale, but photos and info for the new kids on the block who may not have seen these or been aware of there existence.

Whoever installed both gauges did them wrong because the proper way to mount them is from the back side of the instrument cluster.:headscratch:

[Funky61]

Yeah Pete I noticed that difference as well from the Jolly site featuring your gauge photos. At first I thought it was a unique gauge cluster but it's not.

[1960HDGMC]

Here is how the Tach and clock are mounted in my truck. I think the two accessory items are back loaded. The chrome rings would be employed if they were mounted on the metal,1960-61 GMC instrument housing. The 1962 + GMC switched to a plastic housing(as seen here),which has cast bosses to accept the "GMC Approved" Accessory gauges. There is Williamson Instrument Repair that does amazing repair/repurposing. They can take a tach and convert it from 6 to 8 cylinder, and solid state too. The old battery box can be left for looks, or removed. All the system is inside the tach. Just two wires to run and done. My clock runs but I have been told that is rare in these old clocks. Mine has all the original internals, including the burnt contact points which energize the clock every 30 seconds or so. I may rig a separate battery just for the clock. If I can repair the points, I may can save the internals. You play heck setting the clock, because the pull arm is so close to the housing. I wait till the real time is matched up, and then hook up the battery. A broke clock is right twice a day. Later, Greg Mead

[GMCNUT]

I've seen the clock and tach installed both ways - I found a 1 owner 41,000 mile untouched 62 or 63 GMC once and it had the tach and clock put in from the front, and the original owner told the dealer he did not like the "new" all black plastic knobs vs the nicer chromed steel ones from 59 back, so the dealer removed all the black knobs and replaced them with 55-59 chrome ones - I have to admit - it looked better. So point is, when something is dealer installed, the "correctness" of that installation was subject to who was doing it, what they felt like doing that day, and what dealership they worked for. Generally speaking I believe rear mounted is what we should all consider to be "correct" but like Greg said - when the clock is mounted this way you cannot adjust it as easy as you can if front mounted. That could be one reason to mount from the front

[GMCNUT]

This is the cluster out of that 41K truck I was talking about - the guages were loaded from the front, but seat far back so you still get the same effect but without the difficulty winding the clock - plus depending on who you ask, the chrome accent rings add to the appearance anyway. This cluster was cut by the GMC dealership so the guages could be installed from the back or front and look basically the same I suppose.

[GMCNUT]

in case you wondered - I fumbled the ball trying to clean these guages, and dropped and broke the original 41K speedometer (boy was I PO'd) and ended up replacing it with the more faded out 80K + odometer you see in the cluster now

[1960HDGMC]

I am all about making stuff easier on myself. And you get a nice little boost of chrome frontloading as well. As for the knobs, I too like the chrome knobs better, so I went with Chevrolet knobs which are black with chrome rings. They are shaped just like the 1960 GMC knobs, but lack the grey color. I can see why original owners opted for more bling. Those grey knobs are pretty sad when your buddy has a new Chevy with black against chrome, of the exact same shape. I could see how the GMC guys would want an upgrade of dash bling. Frankly, the GMC interiors were pretty Spartan. Those colors were sleepers. I had to wake my trucks interior up, so I matched the outside colors. It looks a lot more lively than before. Its all personal preference, after all. I prefer a rubber mat to carpet, chrome knobs to grey and GMC had more chrome than Chevy in 1960,on the outside of the truck. Chevy had anodized aluminum grills, where GMC had chrome. Chevy offered a small chrome ring around the rear glass that GMC did not. I added it to my truck because I like chrome, and it accents the rear glass perfectly. GMC chrome grill with its chrome eyebrow moldings and letters looks so good ,they kept it thru 1966. The Chevy grills were a little thin looking by comparison. But they all look better than a lot of what we have to choose from now. Greg Mead

[bigblockv6]

According to the GMC literature screw on U shape clips were supplied with the clock for installation from the back, furthermore mounting it from the back makes the gauge blend in with the rest of the gauges and not look like an add on. As far as being a dealer installed accessory that's not quite true. My fathers 62 K1000 came equipped with the clock from the factory but upon delivery of the truck he requested they add the corresponding gauge to left side of the cluster which was a Bat-O-Meter, it too was installed from the back side.

[bigblockv6]

This is the cluster out of that 41K truck I was talking about - the guages were loaded from the front, but seat far back so you still get the same effect but without the difficulty winding the clock - plus depending on who you ask, the chrome accent rings add to the appearance anyway. This cluster was cut by the GMC dealership so the guages could be installed from the back or front and look basically the same I suppose.

Looking at your gauges they appear to be mounted properly, the differences being the holes were cut to larger diameter over what the blank pods were outlined for, this too has advantages if you want more chrome to be shown:thumbsup:

[jagarra]

Here is the sending unit for the Sun tachometer, provided you have a V6 engine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUN-TACH-TRANSMITTER-EB-7-A-6-CYLINDER-12V-/141546929599?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20f4dabdbf&vxp=mtr

[Ed Snyder]

I have the original paperwork from 1965 when my Dad ordered the one ton Suburban. It says the clock ($17.55) and the 270 degree Sun tach ($50.00) were installed by the dealer before Dad took delivery. They're both mounted from the front.

[1960HDGMC]

Just a thought, but maybe the dealers tended to front mount simply because it was easier. I would think they could front mount without removing the entire gauge assembly and panel. Perhaps there cuts would not have to be as accurate, with the chrome bezel there to cover the cut edge of the hole. To back mount ,you might have to remove them so you can get them in correctly. And I know to back mount you have to be dead on, on your hole cutting. Just a thought. Greg Mead

[bigblockv6]

I've cut quite a few of these clusters for back mounting and the way they were designed it didn't even require using a hole saw. I did one right at one of our mini meets in 2004 at Brooks Oregon on Sam Roes truck. I drilled a hole big enough to fit a hacksaw blade then cut 3 slits in the plastic and broke them off, it tends to break right at the perforated chrome circle that establishes the proper hole size followed with some 40 & 80 grit sandpaper to finish the holes edges. If you want more chrome to show then it will require using a bigger hole saw and that's where it becomes really critical to be right on center with drilling.

[bigblockv6]

I have the original paperwork from 1965 when my Dad ordered the one ton Suburban. It says the clock ($17.55) and the 270 degree Sun tach ($50.00) were installed by the dealer before Dad took delivery. They're both mounted from the front.

Ed, looking at the pic the clock appears to be back mounted but the dealer cut the hole out larger so the chrome bezel is more pronounced, For the most these borg clocks supplied to GMC came with two small screw on clamps that only allowed for back mounting, if you can check and see if this is correct.

[Clarke]

Ed, looking at the pic the clock appears to be back mounted but the dealer cut the hole out larger so the chrome bezel is more pronounced, For the most these borg clocks supplied to GMC came with two small screw on clamps that only allowed for back mounting, if you can check and see if this is correct.

I would like to see some pictures on how these gauges are back mounted, so if/when I find a set, I'll know how to mount them.

[bigblockv6]

I've got pics of the back mounting, I have to search in my files so I will post them soon.

[bigblockv6]

Just a thought, but maybe the dealers tended to front mount simply because it was easier. I would think they could front mount without removing the entire gauge assembly and panel. Perhaps there cuts would not have to be as accurate, with the chrome bezel there to cover the cut edge of the hole. To back mount ,you might have to remove them so you can get them in correctly. And I know to back mount you have to be dead on, on your hole cutting. Just a thought. Greg Mead

Some appear to be front mounted but they're actually not. What it is the bezels are cut out larger in diameter revealing more chrome as well as protruding more forwarding giving the gauges a larger appearance as in the case of GMCNUTS cluster. If the gauges were mounted from the front there would be nothing left of the black beveled part of the cluster as in the case of FUNKY61'S newly acquired gauge cluster

[bigblockv6]

Ok here are the pics of back mounting installation of the gauges.

[Clarke]

Ok here are the pics of back mounting installation of the gauges.

Cool! Thanks, I think I can handle that. Now I just have to find a set.

Several years ago I almost caved in and bought the tach that has the red football; I believe someone said that style was used in the '50's. The text style didn't match very well either.

This thread has motivated me to search again.


Thanks again,

Clarke

[bigblockv6]

I actually bought a couple of those with the football on it(RC-50) . I ended up installing one on a 66 GMC because my customer liked the way it looked, the numerals actually match closer with the clock, not all that bad and any RC-50 is good substitute for the RC-5A Tach.

[bigblockv6]

2699I decided to throw in some pics with the football Tach mounted in the 62-66 cluster.

[Clarke]

2699I decided to throw in some pics with the football Tach mounted in the 62-66 cluster.

Thanks for sharing... That tach looks like the one I looked at a couple of years ago, except it only went up to 4k RPM, which is enough for our motors. I made note of the two numbers you referenced.

[Funky61]

Well for some unknown reason I wasn't able to access the site. Finally got thru!
Here are few more photos on how this was mounted. Clock does not work.

[Funky61]

The clock does not work and had this written on the side, plus the name "woodworth" and here are the mounting screws used.

[bigblockv6]

It looks like someone made their own brackets mounted on top of the factory brackets as a wedge to hold the housing and also set a screw on top of the cluster to lock the clock in place. The clock I got dates to June 1962 it also didn't work so I sprayed a little WD-40 then it started working. As an alternative clock, Studebaker used one also in the early 60's I think in their "Hawk" other than a black bezel and less bolder numerals of the same font that clock was identical. I picked one up back in 1993 for about $20 at a swap meet and the seller had no idea what it was for, I bought it because it reminded me of the GMC/Borg clock. I'll post some pics of it later.

[Clarke]

Well for some unknown reason I wasn't able to access the site. Finally got thru!
Here are few more photos on how this was mounted. Clock does not work.

Thanks for sharing... So the first picture with the strap across the entire back (of the tach?) gauge must be installed from the front? I noticed the strap is connected to the back of the gauge in lieu of the plastic cluster, so it appears the plastic cluster is "pinched" by the flange on the gauge and strap on the back?

Just double checking; I want to make sure I understand how each method is attached.


Thanks again,

Clarke

[Funky61]

Yes Clarke, that's correct; both gauges are front loaded.

[bigblockv6]

The pic of the strap on the Tach is an incorrect way of mounting, that should not even be viewed as an example of how to mount any of these gauges rather of an example of how not too! If you look at the face of the Tach it completely covers up the bezel looking like a real "cobb job"!

[Clarke]

After three years of periodically checking in I finally got a hold of the guy I met at a swap meet, who lives a fews hours away. He's going to make one final showing at the Sunflower Swap Meet, then he's retiring.

I sent him pictures of the dealer installed battery meter and tach. He has the battery meter. :thumbsup: He said he has five boxes of tachs, but he has to looks through for the one I'm looking for. He said he has at least one or two with the red football. Anyway, I'm going to make arrangements to meet him at the swap meet.

Question for you guys... Where does the box for the tach install? On the passengerside inner fenderwell? Near the battery regulator (or whatever it's called)?

[Ed Snyder]

Question for you guys... Where does the box for the tach install? On the passengerside inner fenderwell? Near the battery regulator (or whatever it's called)?

David --

I suspect there is no "standard" location for the tach transmitter. It was probably just a decision whoever installed it made. In my Dad's Suburban the shop at Sauder-Lygrisse installed it before he took delivery of it. They hid it behind the triangular "wing" on the driver's side that goes from the top of the grille support up to the top of the radiator support.

[GMCNUT]

David --

I suspect there is no "standard" location for the tach transmitter. It was probably just a decision whoever installed it made. In my Dad's Suburban the shop at Sauder-Lygrisse installed it before he took delivery of it. They hid it behind the triangular "wing" on the driver's side that goes from the top of the grille support up to the top of the radiator support.

That is super interesting Ed - thanks for sharing that. All the factory tach transmitters I have ever seen were screwed to the firewall next to the fuse block or mounted to the drivers side inner fender next to the firewall, and in one case screwed to the firewall vertically adjacent to the master cylinder. Never heard of one being mounted out front so far from power and the distributor, but I guess you could certainly do that. just have wires all the way up the inner fender that way is all - if you have window washers you could strap the transmitter wiring to the fluid hoses I guess.

[GMCNUT]

Well for some unknown reason I wasn't able to access the site. Finally got thru!
Here are few more photos on how this was mounted. Clock does not work.

OK - so I certainly agree with Bigblockv6 in that these specific guages are somewhat incorrectly mounted in that they do not recess into the guage cluster, but I must say (forgive me bbv6) that if you buy NOS GMC accessory tachs or clocks in the original GMC boxes you will be provided instructions, wiring and these exact straps and clips to mount either of the two exactly as you see them on this set of photos - so these are correctly mounted in terms of the use of the bolt-on U-strap for the tach and two special C-clamps for the clock housing - the reason I say they are still not done entirely correct is because whomever cut this particular cluster did not feel comfortable cutting it according to the instructions and in this case left the guages flush with the face - could have also been a customer choice to have them done this way - who knows - back then it was like I said earlier - preference of the installer. In any case, If I can find where I saved them, I will scan and upload the instruction sheets from my NOS Tach and Clock and show you guys how GMC says it is supposed to be done and hopefully clear up once and for all anyone's confusion on this subject and get us all more in agreement on what is understood to be correct.

[bigblockv6]

Funky61 you're right about the instructions, the old GMC accessory literature mentions that. Prime examples of mounting correctly are 1960HDGMC and GMCNUT whose bezels are cut out for more chrome and gauge face to show, page 18 of the 1966 GMC Owner's Manual has an illustration of this showing the whole dash for purpose of AC controls. I have found another way of making the clock sit more forward by removing the chrome bezel and mounting it in the cluster without it to make the adjustment knob easier to access, I'll post some pics later.

[bigblockv6]

Here are some pics of the Borg/Studebaker clock compared to the GMC/Borg clock

[GMCNUT]

I just bought a factory clock out of a Studebaker Golden Hawk and it was the exact same as the GMC version - mine is not like the one you show on the right, so it might need to be out of the right Studebaker year or model to be the same one used in GMC's.....

[bigblockv6]

Can you send a pic of your clock?

[bigblockv6]

I think I know what you're talking about, the earlier versions used the bolder numerals like the GMC and later versions went to a finer font. The one I have was manufactured in July 1962 only a month later from my GMC clock.

[GMCNUT]

Yes - I just got it a week or so back but not 100% sure where I stuck it - will find it. Bought it off Ebay oddly enough

[Clarke]

David --

I suspect there is no "standard" location for the tach transmitter. It was probably just a decision whoever installed it made. In my Dad's Suburban the shop at Sauder-Lygrisse installed it before he took delivery of it. They hid it behind the triangular "wing" on the driver's side that goes from the top of the grille support up to the top of the radiator support.


In any case, If I can find where I saved them, I will scan and upload the instruction sheets from my NOS Tach and Clock and show you guys how GMC says it is supposed to be done and hopefully clear up once and for all anyone's confusion on this subject and get us all more in agreement on what is understood to be correct.

Wow, this get more interesting everyday... :) Thanks for the feedback guys.

[bigblockv6]

All I can say is as much as I had a fascination for the GMC V6 from early childhood well the same goes for the gauges. I remember checking out a lot of GMC trucks back in that era and about 98% did not have the optional gauges yet father's 62 did, so I'm really enjoying this the same.

[Clarke]

I received a call from the gauge guy who's looking through his tach collection. He said he has one that looks the same or similar to what the dealers installed in our trucks, but it has Green lettering.

With my partial color blindness I obviously don't do well with colors, so I wanted to double check... I'm looking for white lettering, correct? If so, just curious, that did the Green ones get installed in?

[bigblockv6]

That is correct! The GMC version has light green numerals and lettering that were originally intended and used on 1955-59 GMC trucks then carried over to the 60-66 since the style was similar.

[Funky61]

This Studebaker clock looks correct; from across the pond blokes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STUDEBAKER-1956-to-1961-GOLDEN-PACKARD-SILVER-HAWK-CLOCK-MINT-sc-/371220447589?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorie s&hash=item566e768165&vxp=mtr

[bigblockv6]

The clock looks good, it does have a chrome bezel but looking at the pic it is beveled differently(just like the one I have) from the GMC clock, that would require removing the bezel or cutting out the gauge pod 3 5/8 inches rather than 3 inches. Regardless it will work just fine in the GMC cluster.

[Clarke]

That is correct! The GMC version has light green numerals and lettering that were originally intended and used on 1955-59 GMC trucks then carried over to the 60-66 since the style was similar.

Sweet! Well, I'll let you know what I end up with after the swap meet next weekend.

Thanks again for your assistance,

Clarke

[Funky61]

Here is an EBay truck listing for a 1966 GMC that is stated as original but there appear to have been changes made. Has some nice options.

Dash has the tachometer front-mounted and also has a vacuum gauge. The engine compartment shows where the transmitter is installed on this particular truck; driver-side fenderwell.
Not sure what the Big canister is near the battery.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181652845097?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[bigblockv6]

The big canister is the coolant recovery tank came with the 351E option. Again an improperly mounted Tach, makes mention that the vacuum gauge was a factory option though that particular one is a Stewart Warner gauge. The GMC vacuum gauge was completely different, if any one has seen the optional oil pressure gauge then you can visualize the vacuum gauge is the same size yet has the same block numerals like the Tach. Sun did offer a Vac-O-Meter that was the same dimensions as the Tach, I don't think GMC ever used it but it would be a nice fit for the cluster.

[Clarke]

Alright Gents,

I made it to the swap meet and the guy I've been trying to coordinate with for three years, finally came through for me. I am now a proud owner of Tach Model RC-5A, Tach Transmitter Model EB-7A and Bat-O-Meter Model RC-12V. :thumbsup:

Problem is, I don't have any instructions on how to wire this stuff up... On top of that, the guy told me the tach transmitter requires an internal battery... He said you cannot get the Sun battery anymore, but he believes Duracell has a battery that is fairly close, but it may cause the tach to be a little off? He also said he believes there is a place that can modify the tach transmitter so it doesn't require a battery?

I opened up the tach transmitter and there is a sticker where the battery installs, noted MALLORY RM12R & SUN 1766-7.

Does anyone have information on the internal battery or mod to eliminate the internal battery, and wiring diagrams for hooking up the tach/tach transmitter/bat-o-meter? I'm much better at following instructions, than winging it.

Also, what color wire from the headlight switch do I use to splice in the gauge lights? I'm assuming I can ground the gauge lights to the fire wall?

I'm going to buy a 3-3/8" dia hole saw to cut the gauge blanks out of the instrument panel, cutting from the back side.

Thanks in advance,

Clarke

[jagarra]

Make it easy on yourself, there is a spade terminal on the side of the fuse block that has a gauge lights tap, use that. Up near the top, left side.

As far as the battery you need, do some Googling on that part number, not the first time solutions have been discussed on the internet.

AA will work, some guys say no difference. if you are concerned about having the just the right voltage, maybe using a lithium or a watch battery and a variable resistor to drop the voltage will work.


Found this adaptor to use a camera battery in there. Gets the voltage correct. Seems older cameras have same problem, you made need to get a battery holder.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Adapter-Camera-Exposure-Mercury/dp/B00CTNZ9H0


gg

[Clarke]

Thanks for the feedback jagarra.

I'll post updates as I make progress.

[Clarke]

While looking for a tach transmitter battery solution, I found the following site (click on link below), which has a great deal of information... This gives me what I need to know to hook the items up.

One item I found really interesting... It also states the transmitter can indicate certain ignition system troubles by erratic or unstable operation. The cause of this condition is usually poor distributor point condition or improper dwell adjustment. So, I take that as a built in ignition gauge. :thumbsup:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/early-sun-tachs-and-transmitter-instructions.467635/

In case something happens to the site link above, I uploaded a .pdf copy for our site copy (assuming I did it correct).

Speaking of transmitter battery, I called nearly a dozen different battery and electronic stores in hopes to find a recent solution. Of course, I struck out; however, several stores recommended using rechargable NiCAD batteries, as these are typically 1.2 - 1.5V, unlike alkaline batteries are typically 1.5 - 1.6V. The original MALLORY and SUN batteries were 1.35V.

I haven't given up on the camera battery holder yet. So far, I've been getting mixed feedback. I like the lithium suggestion, as I would think the voltage would be more stable, but none of the stores could match anything up that is comparible to the size of a AA and voltage both.

Since you guys informed me the tach transmitters are located in several different locations, I've decided to mount it on the inner fender on the driver's side (opposite to the battery regulator on the passenger side inner fender). That way it will be symnetrical and will be easier to access to change out the transmitter battery. It will also be close to all the existing wire harnesses above the steering column/linkage through the fire wall, so I can sneak my new wires along the same routes.

[jagarra]

Clark,

Looking at the schematic of the sending unit, looks like the batteries are used to pulse the tach head. The relay portion is switching the batteries back and forth as the contacts move following the points in the distributor. I really don't think an over voltage of .15 is going to make that much difference in it's operation. If you have a dwell meter, you could mock the whole thing up and compare the readings. If the Sun reads high with AA batteries in it, well then you may have to add some resistors in the leads going to the tach head to reduce the voltage.

After I posted this I did more research on the internet. Surprised how much this mercury battery is an issue. There are many sites out there with schematics of circuitry to build a board to regulate the voltage. Seems the problem with alkaline batteries is that they discharge at inconsistent rate, where the mercury discharged at a stable 1.35V rate. I did find mercury batteries in the UK, most were camera sized so they are a small package. There is a site called Tachman that does conversions to make the older Suns work. This seems like it is going to get involved and a bit convoluted. I have found where some posters on forums have said current AA batteries work OK, use the E series as they have more umph, just change them often. Found other sites where there are boards being assembled to address the voltage, current and to provide a stable discharge rate. Of course, you will need a new regulator to replace each battery, so 2 boards. If it were me I wouldn't make any holes yet and mock this baby up first as I suggested.

[Clarke]

Thanks for the feedback jagarra...

I've actually beein looking for a new dwell meter, but I cannot find one locally, so I have to order one. The one I have is a '70's model I used as a kid and when I used it a few weeks back, I noticed the RPM was 100 off (compared to my digital timing light) and the actual dwell seemed to match the 8 cyl scale instead of 6 cyl scale, eventhough I had the switch on 6 cyl. When I adjusted to the 6 cyl scale, the points barely opened, but when I adjusted the points with .016" feeler gauge, the dwell meter read 33 degrees on the 8 cyl scale and I think it was 40 degrees on the 6 cyl scale. Anyway, I'm going to order another one.

I called Tachman on Monday and he said it's $225-235 to do the conversion (eliminate battery). By the time I pay shipping both ways, plus the risk of damage during shipping; I'm not ready to invest in that yet.

I'm not thrilled about chaning the battery every 6-12 months either, but for me it's the lesser of two evils right now. It also depends how much the tach will be off too; appartenly, the error varies as the battery output varies. I'm not going to lose any sleep over it, I've driven it for five or six years without one. It's just I'm doing a lot more towing now and I would like to take advantage of my top end, without pushing it beyond the recommended RPM.

Yes, good advice. I will mock everything up before installing my usual half a roll of tape, dozens of zip ties, wire loom, silicone, etc in place. I hate undoing my own work. LOL!

Thanks again,

Clarke

[Clarke]

My 3-3/8" diameter hole saw came in today, so I cut the holes in the instrument panel for my new Bat-O-Meter and Tach. I'm happy with the results.

Because there was a pimple in the center of each gauge blank on the back side of the instrument panel, I drilled smaller pilot holes from the front side. I also attached an oak pilot block on the front side of each blank to keep the pilot bit in the hole saw from drifting off center line in the thin plastic.

With the hole saw, I drilled the blanks out from the back side, which left the front (exposed) edge clean.

I attached some pictures for reference. I still need to make some little clips or shims, so I can mount the gauges from the back side.

[bigblockv6]

:thumbsup:Good job! You can use washers for hold down clips, that's what I use and they work just fine.

[Clarke]

:thumbsup:Good job! You can use washers for hold down clips, that's what I use and they work just fine.

Thanks! Yes, that's my plan. I remember that from your photo you shared and I think that's a good idea. I just have to snoop around my garage to find something to fill the 1/4" gap for the washers to pinch.

[Clarke]

I completed the install of my Bat-O-meter, Tach and Tach Transmitter this weekend...

I installed the tach transmitter on the driver's side inner fender well, similar to the battery regulator on the passenger's side fender well. I matched the same hardware they used to install the battery regulator.

I also installed three additional gauges under the dash left of the sterring column. I still need to hook up the wires for the oil and water sending units, but the wiring is complete.

I installed 2" gauges. I trimmed the gauge cluster to match the cluster you can get for the 2-5/8" gauges. This reminds me of the single tombstone gauge cluster they offered years ago.

On the tach transmitter, I installed a rechargable AA battery (NiMH). I adjusted the tach to be more accurate at the top end. For example: using my timing light tach to adjust the RPM,

Timing Light: Tach Gauge:
800 RPM 1,500 RPM
1,400 2,000
2,100 2,500
2,900 3,000
3,620 3,500

[jagarra]

Clark,

Your dash is looking good. You may find that a rechargeable battery doesn't last long. I still would recommend the e series of AA batteries.

gg

[Clarke]

Clark,

Your dash is looking good. You may find that a rechargeable battery doesn't last long. I still would recommend the e series of AA batteries.

gg


Thanks! I'll keep track to see how long the rechargable lasts. I'll spot check the amount of error it's off too after I drive it for awhile. Once the rechargable dies on me, I'll try your recommendation and compare the amount error it's off. My understanding is, the amount of error changes as the battery runs down. It will be interesting to see the results.

Now, my transmitter only has one battery in it, but it has another area where I can add a second one, but there's no wires of clips in place. I think I'll do some research and see if I can mod the other side, so I can add another battery; assuming that will make it last longer between battery swaps.

[RustyNut]

Clarke,

If you solder "jumper" wires to the pieces of metal that make contact to the battery itself you will double the capacity (life) of the batteries.

Just make sure the jumpers connect both negatives and both positives together. This will maintain the 1.5 voltage. If you connect one positive to the other negative you will double the voltage.



Rusty

[Clarke]

Clarke,

If you solder "jumper" wires to the pieces of metal that make contact to the battery itself you will double the capacity (life) of the batteries.

Just make sure the jumpers connect both negatives and both positives together. This will maintain the 1.5 voltage. If you connect one positive to the other negative you will double the voltage.



Rusty

Thanks Rusty! That's exactly what I'll do.

Clarke