Grampa's 60

[Walys60]

Figured I would go ahead and start the 'journal'.

Finally got the permit to build (a shade over 2 year process). Even though this isn't the truck itself, without it there's no restore. This was poured last week and figure to start the building assembly tomorrow. You can see the old girl sitting there waiting patiently :). Depending on what I find for help this could be anywhere from a week to 2 months project.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Good start! Is that you out there doing the concrete?

[Walys60]

Hehe, no way. Too much skill involved for me to be doing that. That is a buddy of mine/my pastor. He used to be a contractor and did a GREAT job on it.

[abus319]

Sweeet!, got the Pastor out doing the jitterbug!
It looks like a nice size shop. You going stickwall or steel?

[Walys60]

HAHA! yea, I guess all the pot lucks haven't completely ruined him yet.

It's 30' x 48' 2" which is about all I could fit on the lot without variances. It's all steel 'versa-tube'. Same company that makes the ones Lowes sells, but they had a plant here in town at the time (since moved about an hour away) so I was able to pick it up directly from them and cut out the middleman costs and shipping.

Ironic thing is though, I chose this one over the traditional 'red iron' buildings because of how simple they are and about anyone can put them up. They fit together like a puzzle basically and include everything. I had some guys come over yesterday to give me an estimate on putting it up though, cause I had some knee work done this year that has slowed me down a bit and they are friends of a friend and will be getting a pretty good price on it from them. But they get here yesterday and start off with "wow, we've never done one of these building before!" and the dad kept walking around it looking at it and mumbling "whew, this is going to be labor intensive"...seriously...4 or 5 times he said that..to no one in particular. So here I bought the 'easy' building, but apparently a lot more 'labor intensive' and it could cost me. Oh well, I've already decided, if they want more than $1000 to put it up I'll just go back to the original plan of doing it myself and hope to have it done by the end of the year :)

[abus319]

Thats a nice size shop! I don't know anything about versa tube but if the friends of friends price is too high you shouldn't have too much of a problem if you approach it as a long term project and don't try to push that knee too hard. If I was closer I would offer to help ya a few days.

[Walys60]

Roger that, and thanks, I wish you were closer :). That's okay though, I've got a couple neighbors that have been DYING to help me put this thing up, for some unknown reason. Labor is less the problem than it is the skill at this point. It'd make things kind of uncomfortable around here if one of my neighbors fell off and died putting up the sheeting, lol.

[David R Leifheit]

Roger that, and thanks, I wish you were closer :). That's okay though, I've got a couple neighbors that have been DYING to help me put this thing up, for some unknown reason. Labor is less the problem than it is the skill at this point. It'd make things kind of uncomfortable around here if one of my neighbors fell off and died putting up the sheeting, lol.

Maybe some of those neighbors want to do something similar themselves and want to see how it is done... or maybe they want to be able to ask favors later...

:)

[abus319]

Hows the shop coming?
Its hard to get anything done during the holidays isn't it.

[Walys60]

LOL...YUUUP! The guy I had looking at doing the work finally texted me back last week. Apparently he had some severe health problems but to take SO long to get back to me...AND he hasn't gotten back to me since last week again already...I'm thinking I will be moving on and doing it myself.

The other reason I've waited so long is the building kit had a wrong part! One of the base rails too so I couldn't even start until I got it. That got here last Thursday.

I've got some time this week, where I'll see if I can get things laid out for anchors at least... hopefully. Then, yea, probably after the first of the year before I'll get back to it.

[wsignman]

Take some pics

[Walys60]

Well, finally underway! Here's my primary laborer (son) putting in the last anchor bolt on the base rails yesterday. From there I've got a LOT of puzzle pieces to put together before there's any more structure to show. And, of course, it's going to rain ALL week starting Monday. Probably be end of January before it looks much different.

[Walys60]

So this stack is 6 of the 9 I need to build, and #7 laid out with a few of the 100 screws it takes in it. I did 5 of them on Saturday and I'm feeling it! Still, I should have all nine done by the end of the week, I think.

Once those are finished, they get stood up and it starts to 'look' like a building. Unfortunately It'll be 2 weeks before I can get them up. Has to be done on a weekend 'cause I need help (3 people minimum) and I am a 4H shooting instructor and have practice this weekend. Oh well, still a week earlier than I thought I'd have em up.

[abus319]

Its really great to see your son working with you!
If you get antsy or your friends don't show up you might consider renting a small scissorlift for half a day. You and your primary should be able to set all of them in that time. Just make sure that you have your temp stabilizing lines anchored and tied off at ground level before you raise the first one. Pm me if you want to chat about the setup.

[Walys60]

Right, a scissorlift is in the plans for sure, but will be renting it when I get to the siding. I should have enough help (5 confirmed) to stand them up next Monday! I will PM you though. I made a pretty big mistake that I'm too embarrassed to say in public :). Maybe you can confirm my solution.

[abus319]

Ha! if thats the biggest mistake you make you're golden!!
PM sent
Rolling scaffold works well for the siding if your in good shape. Its multi level and its much cheaper than a scissorlift

[Walys60]

What a week! Holy cow, I'm hurting. In the last two days myself and 3 other guys got those stacks of steel turned into what you see in this picture.

This view shows the office walk door on the end. I still have to put frame up the other walk door I have next to the garage door, but that's it! then all the framing is done! I'm going to put some ratchet straps on the corners for a little piece of mind, because it will have to sit like this for probably 2-4 weeks. Obviously will need help again for the next step, siding, and everyone's schedules are pretty slammed for a while.

[abus319]

NICE...Its a lotta work isn't it!
Straps highly recommended... At minimum one running down from each peak end. min length 1.5X the hight, 2X even better.

[Walys60]

Quote from Versatube (the company I bought my building from)

"Weekends are made for garage building! With versatube building systems you can build a garage in as little as one weekend."..." You and a couple of helpers can cross off 'build a garage' from your weekend to do list in no time!"

Reality=

"The months of January and February are made for garage building! You and 7 friends/neighbors (or used to be friends), several of the bigger kids from your church youth group, a couple of day laborers, and 5-6 hundred dollars in lift equipment can cross off 'visiting the 7th circle of ****' from your to do list... and it may never end!

[Ed Snyder]

Quote from Versatube (the company I bought my building from)

"Weekends are made for garage building! With versatube building systems you can build a garage in as little as one weekend."..." You and a couple of helpers can cross off 'build a garage' from your weekend to do list in no time!"

Reality=

"The months of January and February are made for garage building! You and 7 friends/neighbors (or used to be friends), several of the bigger kids from your church youth group, a couple of day laborers, and 5-6 hundred dollars in lift equipment can cross off 'visiting the 7th circle of ****' from your to do list... and it may never end!

Issues like you've been experiencing led me to take a different route. I hired a concrete contractor, then a carpenter, then a roofer, a garage door installer, an insulator, a painter, and a gutter guy. Got the 28' x 54' shop done in about 3 months. All I had to do was write the checks!

Good luck with your project! :getrdone2:

[Walys60]

There is no longer any doubt in my mind you did it the right way.

[abus319]

AAhhhgh That brought back some not so fond memories!! You will get past it and it will be worthwhile... The pain will fade!!!

[Walys60]

Couple dozen more screws to put in, but nothing structural so giving my shoulders a little time to heal before finishing those. Next up electricity! Oh, and need to paint my walk doors so I can put the hardware on em and lock it.

[David R Leifheit]

Couple dozen more screws to put in, but nothing structural so giving my shoulders a little time to heal before finishing those. Next up electricity! Oh, and need to paint my walk doors so I can put the hardware on em and lock it.

Conduit I hope. Doesn't look like the framing has holes for wiring. If it does, and you don't use conduit, don't forget the grommets at each place the wiring goes through the framing.

Conduit though would be the better choice. Gauge 12 wire or 14? 14 is good up to 15 Amp circuits, 12 is good up to 20 Amp circuits. Normal/standard house wiring these days is 14 (15 amp breakers). If the cost isn't prohibitive, I'd suggest using gauge 12 wire and using 20 amp breakers since this is a shop and it is possible you would use a piece of equipment which comes close to the 15 amp draw. For instance I have a 110v arc welder that pulls almost 15 amps at the highest setting, my house was built in the 50s and the whole thing is wired at gauge 12 wire so I can feel confident in knowing that my little homeowner's welder won't trip the breaker.

Overbuilt can be a good thing.

[60ShortStpeGMC]

Couple dozen more screws to put in, but nothing structural...

Looks good!
:thumbsup:

[WDShaffer]

Note on wiring: I have a 110v plasma cutter the run amps are ~15, but the strike amps are 28. I have a 30 amp dedicated circuit for it. Review you equipment wish list (and specs) before finalizing the wiring plans.

[Walys60]

I'm just getting to the sub-panel planning. It's a 125 amp panel, but was only going to put 100 amp breaker to it. I was JUST trying to figure if I would need a 30 amp circuit or not, and I DO plan on getting a plasma cutter.

Figuring on 15 for lights (14-2 wire), 2-20s for 2 diff wall socket circuits (12-2 David) and a separate 15 for the air compressor. That leaves a 30 and I'll go ahead and have it in and figure on running the wire once I figure out where it will go.

Speaking of ... I got all the lights mounted and wired up. Just have some temp power to it till I get the ditch dug for the 3-GWA feed. The picture is of a few of the lights as I was mounting them...there's a LOT more and it is plenty bright in there.

Thanks for the tips all...I'm learning as I go and good to have, at least, confirmation of it!

[bobdylan]

I would run 20 amp for the compressor, you can run more than 100 amps worth of circuits, as long as every thing is not on at the same time. I do not know what you would use a 30 for in a shop, you would need a 50 amp 220 for a large welder, 220 air compressor would be 20 or 25

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I run my welder off of 30 amps and it runs OK for about 20 minutes straight welding, but then I have to give it a 10 minute break or it'll throw. Bob is right about the 50, but my wires weren't thick enough for that size breaker. If you can do it, do it with the 50. The 220 compressor is fine on 30.

Oh, and I'll be running electric to my shed this summer too. I'd like to see details on that if you don't mind. I figure I'll tie off of an outdoor plug and go about 18" underground with that gray plastic pvc piping, but I have no idea what I'm doing. :teehee:

[David R Leifheit]

I figure I'll tie off of an outdoor plug and go about 18" underground with that gray plastic pvc piping, but I have no idea what I'm doing. :teehee:

*If* all you are running is lights... it isn't the best but should handle the load.

*If* you plan on running any equipment at all, even a drill or circular saw, run a new circuit. I had a separate circuit for my barn out back, and if I got real busy with the circular saw, and it bound for any reason, it and the lights tripped the breaker. Then it was a 150' walk back up to the house & breaker panel.
-well, until the tree fell on the overhead line and ... no more power to the barn.

[Walys60]

I understood the same thing as far as the breakers adding up to more than the 100 amp but was told by a contractor friend of mine that it won't meet code. Of course that doesn't mean I couldn't swap what was in there with breakers that add up to 100 if/when I ever needed to pass an inspection :)

Fetch, like David said, you might want to run a sub-panel. A plug will only do so much. I have an extension cord wire nutted to my lights and I'm running a string of 24 lights and my boom box size radio and satellite radio off the same plug from the house on an extension/surge protector, and I DID just run my drill off the same mess yesterday to put one screw in for the light switch gang box...but I turned off the lights first :). Having lights is great, but I would hate to try and run like that permanently.

Quick breakdown of the costs for the sub (round figures)
$170 for #3 wire for box to box run (60ft)
$30 for #4 bare copper ground wire
$22 for 2 grounding rods
$70 for 2 100 amp breakers
$40 for 125 amp sub panel
$25 for 1 1/4" pvc conduit (already have the glue)

Of course, I'll still have to put breakers in but haven't bought them yet. But all should be done for under $500. Not that I'm counting anymore...bleeding cash on this thing!

[Walys60]

Figured it was a good time for an update. Got a picture of the 'weathered in' building before I moved the carport next to it, then a shot after the carport was moved and another 20 ton of rock was put in to cover up the powered dirt on the lot. Of course, I immediately had to ruin that by digging the 3' deep ditch for laying the wire for the sub panel. You can see I did get it into the side of the shop, but still have to wire the sub and the main on either end. Hoping to get that done this weekend and have REAL power to it.

Only one car will end up in the carport but I still have to move a bunch of junk I bought for the shop out of the garage before the other one will fit back into it and it's already getting too warm to leave either one out of the shade.

I'll take some pictures of the interior for posterity but right now I'm so sick of it I don't want to look at it unless I'm inside working on it. I put up runs of bailing wire from end to end of the building, about 2.5' apart and am laying out radiant barrier across the wire, then stuffing batting insulation (r30) on top of the radiant barrier. Trying o make it look decent is probably the biggest headache of it...cutting around the can lights, etc. Of 6 6' wide sections of the building I am doing this way, I have ONE done in the last 3 days of working on it (sigh). Very tedious and I don't have much time before it gets too hot to work up there.

Oh yea, one other thing...neighbor down the street called me and wants to give me his engine hoist. He's had it for a year, was given to him by another neighbor cleaning out HIS garage of things he didn't use (I helped him push it to his house). He never used it, nor plans on it, so figured he'd pass it along now too. 3rd owner, never been used...hoping to stop that trend soon!

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Looks great! Hey on that wire you ran, did you do that yourself too? I've got a shed I'd like to run electric to and I'm wondering about the specifics. I was planning to tag off from an outlet (GCFI) outside and run it down some grey plastic PVC to the shed to run the lights and another outlet. Seems like the PVC would fill up with water though and short everything out.

[David R Leifheit]

Looks great! Hey on that wire you ran, did you do that yourself too? I've got a shed I'd like to run electric to and I'm wondering about the specifics. I was planning to tag off from an outlet (GCFI) outside and run it down some grey plastic PVC to the shed to run the lights and another outlet. Seems like the PVC would fill up with water though and short everything out.

I would suggest that you invest in another circuit breaker for your panel, if you can. Tagging off of an outlet is not something I would recommend. Plus if you trip the GCFI out in the shed, you'd have to come up to the outlet you tapped into to reset it -if you wired it correctly-.

Talk to a local electrician and get some advice. Most places will require you get a permit to do any electrical (I think they still let you change bulbs without a permit and inspection, although I have seen some things people have done that make me wonder how they get out of bed in the morning).
Don't take chances with electricity! Of all the things you could mess up in a structure, electricity has (in my opinion) the most potential to hurt/kill you or a loved one.

If you have an open spot in your breaker panel, or if the panel will accept the double style breakers (I am hoping you have breakers) then run a good run of 12-2 grounded wire, burial grade, from the panel to a trench (12" deep I believe is the requirement, not an electrical inspector so I could be wrong) out to your shed. *Assuming* you are only planning on lights and hand tools. Anything heavier, like even a 110v welder, I would suggest doing it right and putting in a sub panel.

Safety first, last, and always.

[Walys60]

Yes, I did it myself, but with advisement from a former professional. And my adviser was stricter than code (sigh). He suggested a 3' trench from the main to the building/sub panel, where code only requires 2', for example (what a difference 12 inches make in pain and suffering!).

Also, sounds like a big difference from what I'm doing to what you are looking to do though obviously. I'm running 100amp service to the shop and you just want some lights and an outlet.

David explained the right way to do it. You likely already have close to max outlets on the circuit you're trying to come off of from the house as it is. A new 20amp breaker in the box and burying the 12-2 'direct burial' wire really isn't that big of a deal, and not even much different then what you are talking about doing from your house outlet. In fact, using the 'direct burial' wire instead of the PVC probably offsets a fair amount of the effort and money differences in the two options.

I would never recommend (at least in writing :) ) not getting a permit. However, I don't personally believe getting a permit makes anything ANY safer. All the inspections I've had so far have been somewhat interesting conversations about knowing the same people in the community, what my plans are for the building, the weather, etc., etc. Permits help fund the county government, but it's MY desire to do it right that makes it safe.

[Walys60]

Also, in addition to my adviser, I did a lot of research and youtube watching on the subject. In that I had come across this video. Your scenario reminded me of it so I went out and found it again. It sounds similar to what you are wanting to do and would be the 'right' way to to it, assuming it matches code in your area.

<br><font color='red'>To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic?</font><br>

[aphaynes]

Thanks for documenting your Versa-Tube build. I have been seeing ads for those buildings lately and was considering how "easy" they would really be since I need to get myself a shop built. The ads sure make it seem like it's no big deal. Ha!

Compared to the cost of your building, what's the cost of your slab equivalent, more, less? Trying to budget for it, though I don't think I will be able to go as big as you did.

[Walys60]

aphaynes,

Glad it has helped. I have to admit though, my struggles are most likely due to the fact that I am a system's administrator (Windows Server support guy) and my experience in construction to this point had been much smaller scale. I know that experienced folks can do it 'in a weekend' just like they say. I saw a youtube video on a building similar in size. Wasn't versatube, but basically the same thing without the 'swedge' technology of versatube. They had a crew of 3 and completed it in 2 days (not including the concrete of course). There are pictures of those guys walking around on the rafters though! That is NO horizontal support, SIX feet apart, 12-16 FEET in the air! Yeaaaahhh, no thanks! But, it definitely can be done...I guess.

The concrete ran me about $5500, and that is after a $500 bonus I gave to my buddy, mostly because he could use it. Retail, I would have spent probably $6000, so not a huge savings, but helped us both out some so still worth it. Of course it is somewhat dependent on location, but a 30'x50' pad, you'd expect to pay around $6k. The building cost me $11.2K, so concrete was about half again the building cost.

As much as I hated it, I doubt I could have ever built it had I paid someone to do it. I only got one estimate before I sighed and put on my big boy pants and did it...$10,500! Having done it, I'm not calling that a rip-off, just saying I wouldn't have been able to afford it.

[aphaynes]

aphaynes,

The concrete ran me about $5500, and that is after a $500 bonus I gave to my buddy, mostly because he could use it. Retail, I would have spent probably $6000, so not a huge savings, but helped us both out some so still worth it. Of course it is somewhat dependent on location, but a 30'x50' pad, you'd expect to pay around $6k. The building cost me $11.2K, so concrete was about half again the building cost.


Thanks for all of the great info! I'll be struggling to get it done at even the DIY prices. So, I'll probably have to budget in steps, like getting the concrete done, let that sit for a WHILE, get the building, and so on.

Again, I appreciate the thread you have here as it gives me a lot of insight to planning/budgeting to get mine done.

[Walys60]

Quick update:
1. She's runnin under her own power now. I just have 1 20 amp for the 4 outlets I've got run and 2 15 amps for lights/fans for now.
2. One LAST section of radiant barrier/batting to do. Ran out of radiant barrier so waiting for the last roll to come in.
3. All 4 fans are up! and just in time, getting HOT.
4. While I'm waiting on the radiant barrier, I started on the framing for the office. I did a drawing for the framing so I'd know how much material to get and added the conceptual drawing of the garage (both done in sketchup) that I did a couple years ago now and is basically what I'm hoping to end up with :).

[Walys60]

Radiant barrier/batting complete! Still have insulation to do over the office/rooms (loft area) but will be a foam board/batting scenario, so little different.

Got the office all framed up. Put the can lights in and realized they're too tall for the 2x6 roof (sigh), so waiting for some shallow ones I ordered to come in. Just doing some organizing, mounting racks, etc. while I wait. Probably a good time for a break, some chronic pain setting in.

[jbgroby]

Neat, gonna be nice

[bobdylan]

I would have it full of junk projects before I got to that stage, and would not ever get to the point you are. Nice job.

[TJ's GMC]

Looks good!

[Walys60]

Thanks all! I am ITCHING to start working IN it instead of ON it. Just need to get it usable during summer months is all. The walls will be sheeted externally with plywood and just exposed insulation on the inside on the office and bathroom (next on the framing list). sub-flooring on the top for the 'loft' area and all that JUST so I can reach the top of the building to put up the foam board/batting.

And that's how I'm going to leave it for the summer so I can get started on the projects. I'm using the tail gate off a buddy's trailer as gate in my wall to the house right now, so need to get a real gate made as my very first project. BUT, I will be pulling the truck in at that point as well and get started on some much needed maintenance.

It started making a squealing noise, almost like a slipping belt, but more metallic then that. And at the same time, it quit idling. I changed the oil and the noise went away and it idled perfectly again. After about a week, it started squealing and not idling again. I have a feeling there is a pile of sludge in the oil pan due to the engine being soaked with sea-foam/marvel miracle oil/etc. when I first rescued it after 22 years of sitting...and the oil pump is what is making the squealing noise. I have only started it up and let it run for 10 min at a time a couple times a month since then.

Anyway I figure on, at least, pulling the motor up enough to get to the rear main seal, pulling the pan and cleaning it out/putting on a new gasket. Also going to replace the valve cover gaskets since they're seeping too. At that, she should be in good running condition but not sure that, when I have the motor dis-mounted anyway, will I just go ahead and pull it out and the tranny and do a full resto on the body....(sigh) kinda spendy and might keep it out of commission longer than I wanted right now.

Opinions appreciated:
I had a shop do the work when I originally rescued it and they did all the new plug wires, distributor, general tune up stuff, brakes, master cylinder, flushed the gas tank, new filter/oil in the oil bath. So, my thoughts of replacing the main seal, pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, are there other recommended items I should look at if I decide to put it back together and run it for a while?

Thanks!

[Walys60]

oh...and on the 'crammed full of junk'...in previous pictures you'll notice both cars under the carport outside the shop. I HAVE a two car garage attached to the house! Yep, all the junk in it is waiting for me to get far enough along with the shop that I don't have to keep moving the ladder and the scaffold all over it...then it's coming over :).

[Walys60]

Well, it's been a while but I finally pulled her in the shop about 3 months ago and have an actual start! Including a couple shots of the shop where it is right now. Still a ways to go, but got it far enough along to get started on the truck.

The main part is the outside picture of the swamper :). That's the only way I'm able to do anything in the shop and I just got it fully assembled last week.

[Walys60]

Then a shot under the hood. Got just about everything disconnected and motor mounts loose. Just need to remove the hood and remove the drive shaft, etc.. And I can start pulling :). Going to need some help with that so might be a week or so.

Should be all about the truck from here forward!

[Walys60]

Got talked into frame off, total restore (sigh), and this is following the news I tore the meniscus in my 'good' knee. Probably not going to be a quick turnaround on this.

Anyway, here it goes...

[Walys60]

Just 4 more bolts on the drive shaft, a stuck nut on the hand brake, and then I'm down to the 4 bolts on the trans.

My brother should be by Friday, so hoping to have those few things done and the motor hanging from the chain when he gets here. Really not that much of a list, but I won't say how 'easy' it's going to be and jinx it :)

[Walys60]

Here's some fun, black widow eggs wrapped up around the squirrel (or pack rat) scat.

[Walys60]

Well we got an early start and managed to get the engine and trans pulled out yesterday. Though we had disconnected the clutch line, we failed to see that it was still attached with a bracket to the back of the motor until after tugging on it pretty hard and kinking it beyond use. Oh well, easy fix, very happy that's all the damage we did :).

Unfortunately there is a LOT more to removing the bell housing than I thought, so we didn't get it put on the stand. Back to just me so we're back in slow mode.

[Walys60]

Well, no meniscus tear! It's just a 'deep bone bruise'. Hurts like the dickens, but no repair required!

Anyway, not sure how much that news will speed this project up, but I did get the motor on the stand and stripped it down close to as far as I am going to. Still will take off the oil pan, filter, coil and fuel pump...but we're just talking a matter of minutes for that. Then at some point, my brother will be picking it up and he'll take it from there. That's going to be his main contribution to the project.

I took the fenders and the one door with the rust holes to a local body shop. I've been having second thoughts about it though. My Dad was trying to talk me through his version of what should happen to repair them myself. That went in one ear and out the other, I have NO intention of doing them myself, just way too much time in that. BUT, I started thinking, maybe he would want to do them if I took them to HIS house. We'll see. He and I have a tradition of going to the "Run to the Pines" car show in Pinetop every year so I will be seeing him this weekend and we'll chat about it. It would be nice to keep all the work in the family.

In the meantime, I've pretty much moved back to stripping it down. Just have the steering column and gas tank to get out of the cab and it's done. Starting to size up how to use my engine hoist to pick the cab off the frame. Should be interesting :)

[TJ's GMC]

It was scary having my v6 on an engine stand....didn't sleep to well at nights. haha

[Walys60]

Hehe, yeah, for sure TJ. I did finally take the chain off but I'm not moving it around much...just enough to get it out of the way.

I got the cab pretty close to ready to unbolt from the frame, and then I started going through all the suppliers and listing parts/prices. I was pretty excited at first...mostly looking at all the rubber parts and smalls so they were $6 here...$20 there. By the time I'd had enough for the day the total was about $3000! The only 'big' thing I had in the list was the body work I already have out to the body shop ($400 estimate). Anyway, that kind of made me decide to set it aside for a couple other projects I need to get done :). I probably have a 2-3 month wait before my brother takes the motor anyway.

I've got a speedometer drive and some new performance/maintenance parts to put on the Harley and I just bought a 1973 pinball machine to restore (cause I didn't have enough projects started). Attached a picture of the pinball machine in lieu of actual progress on the truck, lol.

[Walys60]

Well, it has been a while since I've updated. Really hasn't been much progress in the last 2.5 years unfortunately. I had so many projects going on that very little got done on the truck. I posted a few new pictures under the album for the truck.

Anyway, I finally got sick of the projects I DIDN'T want to do keeping from the projects I DO want to do so I basically gave them all away just to clear the shop out. I still have a pinball machine, a jukebox and the, never ending, shop improvements but I put the truck back on the #1 list ...at least until it gets hot again.

I've got about 20 of the stubborn bolts left and I'll have the truck bed wood and the last fender well out. and then 3 more cab bolts and I'll lift it off. That's it and and I'm DONE with disassembly!!! I get to start actually restoring things and...it almost makes me tear up...putting it back together!

Granted, there is a lot of prep, particularly for the body paint...but I'm going to start with the frame/undercarriage and hope to have that all done before it gets hot is the goal. Hopefully I will be updating more regularly now that I've got my priorities straitened out again :)

[Walys60]

Look what I did this weekend!

[Walys60]

Pushed it out next to the shop so I could start cleaning it. SHEESH! 3100 PSI washer seem to strengthen the resolve of the caked on grease. On the recommendation of a friend I bought a can of cheap oven cleaner and sprayed it down.

I've only used engine de-greaser on much less packed grease so I don't have a direct comparison, but I AM impressed with the oven cleaner so far. I soaked half the front end with it and let it sit for an hour or so then went after it with a putty knife. It had softened it up great. Unfortunately I ran out of gas on the pressure washer but I think if I spray it off and do one more oven cleaning and that should get me down to detail work. Give it a shot some time...I think it was $2 at Dollar General. Sure beats $6 a can (minimum) for de-greaser.

[Walys60]

Okay, so I had mentioned in another thread that I am back working on her and how sad I am that I have to tear apart the front end considering it has original parts and is tighter than a drum. Hurt feelings or not, it only makes sense to replace those things while I'm in there, especially things like the control arm bushings/seals, as painful as they would be once the body is back on.

Anyway, I threw in a few tear-down pictures of the driver side (and the perfect ball joint had to pop out). If you look close you will see that they are before and after shots. I bought one of those cheap ($30) pressure washer sand blaster attachments and I have to say, it far exceeded epectations...so far. I have about 3-4 hours in wire brushing break parts, the spindle and the hub and that blaster did what you see there and more in about 20 minutes.

Since I'm actually 'restoring' now and not just tearing down, I decided I would start doing a video log as well. Mostly for my son who will eventually inherit it, but if you all are bored and want a laugh go take a look. Who knows, maybe it would help you out on something or...maybe you could stop me from doing something stupid :)

My Channel...
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[Ed Snyder]

Nice to see you're finally making more progress. Keep up the good work, and keep the updates coming.

[Funky61]

Well done on the videos Walys60!

I commented, posted and liked. Digging the T-Bird too :welldone:

[Walys60]

Nice to see you're finally making more progress. Keep up the good work, and keep the updates coming.

Thanks Ed. Yeah, there have been a lot of starts and stops unfortunately. I'm kind of in a rush to get as much done as I can this winter as I've determined it IS just too dang hot to get any work done on it in the summer.

Daunting task. I've been able to keep motivated by using the 'how do you eat an elephant?...one bite at a time' thing. When I look at the whole truck and what has to be done, it seems like something that can never happen, but when I look at it like 'I just want to rebuild the front end and paint the frame' I have a more attainable goal.

Anyway, I appreciate the encouragement!

[Walys60]

Well done on the videos Walys60!

I commented, posted and liked. Digging the T-Bird too :welldone:

Thanks Funky, I figured it was one of you guys :). Love the feedback too...I've never done anything like that so didn't know what needed to be worked on. I'll keep that in mind for the next uploads. The video part is another motivator. I try to do 'something' every day. Even if it's just take another couple of bolts loose.

[James]

I noticed you use a cheater bar to remove the upper control arm. What I did is to use a thread chaser (similar to a die but don't cut any threads) on the exposed thread and then a shot of penetrating oil and the nuts come off easily. Just my thought.

[Walys60]

I noticed you use a cheater bar to remove the upper control arm. What I did is to use a thread chaser (similar to a die but don't cut any threads) on the exposed thread and then a shot of penetrating oil and the nuts come off easily. Just my thought.

Thanks James, great tip. I did use a cheater and I tend to start with it whether I need it or not :). I actually am in process of uploading a new video and I mention on it that I can't seem to stop myself from using either a cheater or the breaker bar...assuming everything is torqued to high heaven, but they really aren't. For the most part I could use my ratchet without any help.

The threads aren't a problem on these because they've all been blasted but I will look up the 'thread chaser' for future bolts that aren't. Sounds like something I sure could have used along the way for sure.

[Walys60]

Just a quick update. I am doing the youtube video log so I haven't been posting much here obviously. I've gotten the driver's side front about as far as I can get it without the new parts I have on order. Everything is painted (though I am going to have to redo the frame).

Of 3 major parts ordered that I have received so far, all 3 are not the correct part. This is the most frustrating part of the process so far. Calling the suppliers doesn't help either. They just repeat what I have already seen in their catalog and know nothing about cross referencing parts, etc. I'm just having to order and return and I guess that's how it will be for this project (sigh).

The pictures show the frame that I have to repaint because it rained shortly after and it is all bubbled, and the parts that are completed and ready to have the 'new' parts put back on, if I ever get the correct ones.

[Walys60]

Okay, I'm back and have a solution to the upper control arm shaft (I hope). Check out the video...
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[Prowbar]

Hello, interesting build. I would encourage to save as much OEM/original parts as possible, possibly repair rubber seals with new repro ones like on the control arm shafts. The OEM parts fit better and will last longer than any new repro stock.

Already subscribed to your Youtube channel, will follow the progress. Good luck!

[Walys60]

Hello, interesting build. I would encourage to save as much OEM/original parts as possible, possibly repair rubber seals with new repro ones like on the control arm shafts. The OEM parts fit better and will last longer than any new repro stock.

Already subscribed to your Youtube channel, will follow the progress. Good luck!

Thanks Prowbar! Definitely trying to keep it as stock as possible. The control arm shaft I'm using isn't even a repro, it's just flat not the part for that truck at all! LOL...(sigh)...I've tried everything I could think of to get new seals for the originals I took off of it. They are still in great shape and new seals would really be all it would take but after exhausting all possibilities I'm left with this one option that 'works'.

I'm really hoping this parts thing is just the front end for the most part. I know I'm going to have to come up with something else for the front engine mounts too. But the rest is basically 'standard' for those years. The front is different because, not only is it a '60 but it's a 3/4 ton. But the rear end I 'think' is fairly standard between it and Chevy at least and, obviously, the body, trans and engine are common among all those year's models for the most part.

Anyway, I'll keep posting as it goes back together. As I mentioned in the video, all it takes is money :). I have to get both new lower control arm shafts now (I do have a line on those) and they are $250 a each...for lousy stinkin control arm shafts!!!?? Anyway, lol.

[Walys60]

Well, I FINALLY got something DONE.

The driver's side front end is complete! Well, minus the shock. Anyway, I figured it has been while since I updated though I have still been posting videos on the youtube channel, so this seemed like a good time to do that.

I will post a parts list once I order the drinker's side parts. I'll look around to see if there is a better place to post it though so people could theoretically just do a complete front end for a 1960 GMC 1500 from the list if they wanted.

The reason I am waiting until I get the other side is because I am trying a different lower control arm than the one I got for the driver's side. The one I got for the driver's side was from 'performance online' and was $245. The reason I went with it is because the picture of it showed the conical seals and bushings that the original had and I had gotten burned by ordering one that 'looked' like the original shaft but the seals didn't. Anyway, the one I got for $245 was the right shaft but had the squared off seals and bushings anyway! It didn't make a lick of difference for the fit though so, great, it fits...but it cost TWO HUNDRED AND FOURTY FIVE BUCKS! On the other hand, Summit Racing has one it swears is for the '60 1500 that is $90 for a pair of them! It's worth a shot. Worst case, I have to send them back and order the $245 one.

So, if this works out, my list will be $331 (rounded up) which includes tax and shipping, per side. If I end up having to order the expensive shaft again, it will be $573 per side. As noted I haven't put shocks on it yet. Though, to even it out I DID do all the steering except the rag joint. I found a set of shocks in stock at the local O'reilly for $43 each so just hadn't bothered yet.

That's it for now

[Walys60]

Okay, got the front end finished. This isn't the 'latest' video but is the beginning of the end of the front <br><font color='red'>To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic?</font><br>

So, now here is my dilemma...I decided that I wanted to keep it 'patina'. The body is straight as an arrow and it really has the 'look' for a good patina truck. Or I should say it HAD the look. Once I started after it with the pressure washer, the white that painted over the seafoam back in 62 kind of went sideways.

I don't know, I'm a little too close to the project obviously and was hoping I could get some honest opinions of the patina as it is turning out. Either way I'm going to keep going with it...if I end up scrapping the patina and just repaint it all has to come off anyway.

Oh, also, there is a new product that clearcoats patina paint. Specially formulated to adhere to it (mechanically) vs. regular clearcoat which is designed to adhere to paint (chemically). So whatever I end up with after getting all the 'loose' pain off is then protected and will be stopped from deteriorating any further.

Anywho, let me know what you think please!

[ilvracn]

parts of it look good and other parts do not look so good. try a da sander with med fine paper and see if you can feather it out a little. just my opinion

rick

[Walys60]

parts of it look good and other parts do not look so good. try a da sander with med fine paper and see if you can feather it out a little. just my opinion

rick

Thanks for the feedback ilvracn! I have done a little work with 00 steel wool (see picture) and was going to move to 'ultra fine' scotchbrite next. I have been keeping it to a small area toward the front of the bed...maybe a foot from the front edge back. You can start to see a little blue coming through. I don't want to go too deep but that area is VERY rough texture wise so I have to get to something smoother at least.

Anyway, I will keep on going with it and will switch to the DA if needed as well. Thanks!

[Walys60]

Okay, to start with here is a current picture of the frame minus the rear-end and the rear end itself. I finished the front end and pulled it back into the shop about a month ago and have been working on the rear end since then.

I have my usual parts problems at this point. I think I will post about the engine mounts in the engine forum but I'll just ask if anyone else has run into the problem of locating a pinion seal here.

It is the Dana 60 with a 4.10 and I just kind of figured this was going to be common enough to be easy but it isn't. I got 2 different ones from Autozone, checked the one O'reilly's had and ordered one from 'the car and truck shop' online and all of them were wrong. I have also spent quite a bit of time scrolling through pictures on Google and I don't see anything that 'looks' right. I know the replacement likely doesn't 'look' exactly like the original but I have to assume the seal 'form' is pretty similar along with the inside/outside diameters.

Anyway, this is a big hold up as I have otherwise finished the backend and it's ready to go back together.

Once I have it done, it will just be a matter of wire brushing/painting the under side and figuring out the motor mount situation. In the meantime we'll be getting the engine to the machine shop and get it done and ready to go back on the frame. Then that will just leave the body for next year. Fingers crossed.

[Walys60]

A miracle happened...I got the engine back, completed, from the machine shop!

I think the main miracle was the fact that I had to order half a dozen parts for it (main bearings, rod bearings, timing chain, etc.) and ALL of them came in as the CORRECT part!

I went ahead and had him do the assembly as I would probably have had to wait a year or 2 for my brother to come back and help me with that. Worth every penny of the $500!

All the major parts went through the 'bath' but none of the hardware did. I never found a bolt kit for it and the machinist said to just stay with the original stuff, they aren't modern 'torque' bolts. Unfortunately I didn't think about the possibility he wouldn't run those through the chemicals, so just sent em bagged and tagged 'as is'. Oh well, I had a few hours in prep but I was able to get it pretty decently prepped, and then shot the Ford red on it. Definitely 'close' to the original, but could use a little more orange in it.

I have to say, this was the best rattle can paint job I've ever done...I guess I have gained 'some' skills over the years.

Anyway, I will probably get a couple accessories cleaned and painted but then I'm leaving town for 5-6 months, so won't get to put it in the frame till Fall some time.

[Walys60]

Oh, also, I used the original pistons. They have a little scoring on the skirts but generally in good shape. The concern was the little bit of scoring on the cylinder walls and there was some pitting from rust, due to sitting disassembled for 4 years. I asked for the machinist opinion and he said that it would run fine, but probably 'use' some oil. I wasn't going to pay $2500 for pistons...sorry, just not going to do it when parts are getting more and more scarce, to the point that the next part failure might be the end anyway.

For me the decision was either rebuild it 'as is' or swap it for a 350. It was a very disheartening thought to consider a 350, as I have spent YEARS tracking down 'original' parts for the chassis. Had I thought I might need to go with an engine swap I would have just thrown a square body front end on it and had power steering and easy to replace parts!

Anyway, I went with keeping the original 305a and live with the results. He called me a few weeks later and told me he had researched and it turns out he could take off .002 and still use original pistons! That got ALL the scoring and corrosion. I went and looked at them after and they're like new, except for a tiny ridge at the top.

Very excited to get this thing and and start it up this Fall. By winter I'm going to be putting body panels back on! (remind me I said that this time next year if it's still not started, lol).

[Ed Snyder]

Glad to see you're finally making progress again, after we last heard about your project two years ago! Never give up.

[Walys60]

That's crazy, I didn't even notice that...2 years, wow.

I hadn't progress that much between updates either. I did get the rear end back in and hooked up some lines and stuff. I got the motor mounts all figured out and purchased, not a big list.

Oh well, I turned around the other day and my 5 year old was a junior in college too. I guess that just how it is now.

[Walys60]

For the heck of it, I went back and looked for the first post about starting to actually work on the truck and it was Aug 2017. Nearly EIGHT years ago I started this, lol...wow. Well that's what you get when a computer guy tackles a frame off restoration I guess.