62-66 GMC parklight rivets and lenses

[GMCNUT]

So, I'm trying to replace my old park light lenses in the 66 Suburban and I bought reproduction lenses, but look what huge rivets they send you to use - this looks ridiculous compared to the tiny rivets they are supposed to have. I do have smaller heads on some tiny pop rivets, but wanted to see if anyone on here has crossed the bridge of trying to source the correct rivets maybe? these are not going on my truck - pop rivets look like pop rivets is the only problem I see using them - I'd rather have the smooth head of the correct type if they can be had....thoughts anyone?

[AZKen]

Are the originals domed head rivets?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#domed-head-rivets/=10o0eq7
Scroll down to "Solid Rivets". If these will work you can drill a hole in the end to make them tubular rivets. Are the new/old one tubular rivets? You can also bond the lenses on and bond the old heads in place to look orig. But I'm sure we can find proper rivets. just show me the profile and give head size and length.

[GMCNUT]

They are exactly like the two-piece domed rivets you see on the McMaster page, but they are made to be flared with a punch from the back and are too small to accept a pop rivet from the back like the larger 1/4" ones they sell. These are really small rivets GM used, so the only way to replace them correctly is to find same-type rivets that are made hollow to be punch set rather than pop-rivet set like the ones McMaster has.

[AZKen]

The rivet I am referring to is on that page. Scroll down until you see a one piece domed head solid rivet, It says "Domed and Flat Head Solid Rivets". Click on that. Then choose (on the left) material, body diameter and length. These are NOT pop rivets. They are solid rivets. You want a domed head Tubular Rivet. If you can't find a tubular rivet, you may be able to drill into the end of one of these solid rivets to create a tubular rivet. I would choose Aluminum for this. There are plenty in a package to try and get them drilled. The body diameters available start at 1/16. Tubular rivets come in oval or truss head. Similar to dome. People who do leatherwork use Domed tubular rivet studs. That is a possibility also. What shank/body diameter do you want????? And what is the total thickness you are riveting??? I see you say you want "smooth" head. Maybe I am not seeing the picture correctly, it looks domed. If not, let me know exactly what shape head you want. Maybe smooth means no hole in the middle? But domed.

Are the holes in the new lens the same size as the old lens holes?

[Clarke]

When I replaced mine several years back, my kit also came with larger rivets. I was concerned with the short edge distance and possibly cracking the plastic if pinched too tight. So I went to Ace Hardware and bought tiny stainless steel screws and nuts, and I was pleased with the results. However, if you're wanting to stick with orig hardware, that doesn't help you.

[bigblockv6]

About 13 1/2 years ago I refurbished a 66 GMC, got the lenses from GMCPaul's. They came with the correct rivets but I didn't have the proper rivet gun or tool so I used some small phillips head stainless steel screws.

[AZKen]

Screws is what I would do. I have a 1960, what am I supposed to do? Don't see any lenses for me?
BTW GMCNUT, I would use a controlled squeeze method rather than a hammer method, on that plastic, to upset rivets.

Also, I wonder if a person could thread a rivet shank? I think so. Get the look and a good fastening method for future repair. "Cake and eat it too"

[GMCNUT]

Well, I ended up using small pop rivets which I dont like, but better than the too big rivets they sent with these. Problem with pop rivets or screws is that the shank has to be cut off on back or they interfere with the hood sheetmetal and prevent the lens and housing from seating in the openings in the hood because anything sticking out the back around the edge hits the hood. a couple went through the opening allowing the housing to seat say 2/3 of the way around, but one caught on each of mine and stopped it from snapping into place all the way. I will re-do once the truck gets paint, for now its OK for them to be in there but not perfectly seated. They are snapped in enough to not ever fall out at least

[sdwolff98]

I found them listed in the parts books 9/32 diameter now whether that is the body or head of the rivet I am not sure still doing some hunting since I am working on that myself right now for mey LED marker lamp setups

Sean

[Boomerswany]

I found them listed in the parts books 9/32 diameter now whether that is the body or head of the rivet I am not sure still doing some hunting since I am working on that myself right now for mey LED marker lamp setups

Sean

Wow, love the work..! May need a no-load flasher..?:thumbsup:

[jbgroby]

GMC nut, I used pop revits, then I used a small hand modeling file to level the center post, then mixed a very small bit of JBWeld , files it smooth, then painted the head. Look very very good.