THANK YOU... And Need help identifying this truck

[Winston]

Hello all, and thank you very much for adding me to the list! I inherited this truck, and am having a bear of a time identifying it. The Vin # starts out V40008. So I am assuming it is a 4000 series truck. My uncle states it is a 1963 with a V6. I cannot find any engine tags on it to identify the size, so I am guessing it is the standard 305 2bbl, and my guess is model E.

It has the four speed, with a "high/low" rear end. I guess that means it has a highway setting, and a low setting?
Oddly enough, when it was stuck in mud, only the driver side tires spun, which makes me believe that is the only power wheel.

if you have any information based on the pictures, that would be great, or some way to identify the motor, I would appreciate it. also, I cannot seem to find any information on other sites about the 4000 series. Seems up to 3000, then on to 5000...

Lastly, while it isn't this forum, the truck seems to be stuck in 1st gear. I would think it would pull out, but nope. and the clutch sinks to the floor, and doesn't return. Does this sound like fluid (tranny), or a bad clutch?


Thank you again for any help.. I really do appreciate this club!

[bobdylan]

*right below the left head as your are facing engine, scrape off 1/2 inch of block deck that extends out from below head, that will have your engine number. Should be a picture in 6066 GMC guy's site

[AZKen]

Jolly's site does have a registered V4008xxxxx which is a Chassis/Cab 19,500 GVW, V6 with a 305E. 1963. As stated you can find the "305E" stamped on a stickout pad in front of the passengers cylinder head. Just clean that flat pad off and read. To bad you don't have the, 1963 only, plaid valve covers. See if the clutch fork is adjusted correctly and is moving when pedal compressed. Unhook drive shaft to move it around if you need to. "Stuck in the mud"? Wheels spinning? Locked in first? Were you locked in first during this? How did you start it up? Anyway, it should say GMC 4000 right on the fender. I don't know anything about those big old trucks.

[Ed Snyder]

the truck seems to be stuck in 1st gear. I would think it would pull out, but nope. and the clutch sinks to the floor, and doesn't return. Does this sound like fluid (tranny), or a bad clutch?


Thank you again for any help.. I really do appreciate this club!

Chances are, your clutch is fine. Most likely you need to replace the master cylinder which is shared by the brakes and the hydraulic clutch. If the clutch still doesn't release after you replace the master cylinder, replace the slave cylinder too. It's mounted down on the bell housing. Both parts should be readily available at a good auto parts store.

Nice looking truck! Good luck getting it roadworthy again! Keep us up to date on your progress.

[POWERSTROKE]

Welcome to 60-66 GMC. I can positively assure you both rear wheels get power. It's the nature of an open rear end to send power to the rear wheel with the LEAST traction. There's an entire industry built up making locking or torque biasing differentials. Unfortunately nothing available for an axle as big as your #4000 GMC has.

With the 305 V-6 and a 4+2 trans & axle performance loaded will be lethargic. I spent a L-O-T of time decades ago rowing through 5+2's with substantially larger engines but substantially heavier loads.

But, your truck looks in EXCELLENT shape for being 53 years old. Somebody slammed the drivers door open, shame on them! Dad had 1960 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup with similar sheet metal I may or may not have dented similar to yours.

Does your truck have a PTO operated hydraulic hoist for the box? Many did.

[6066gmcguy]

your engine number should be right in the area I outlived in your photo.

Looking at your other engine photo I see a brake line unhooked, so I'm guessing there is no fluid in the master cylinder, so the clutch or brakes won't work.

as for ID on this truck we would need to know the letters in the middle of the vin. V4008xx1001x

[Winston]

All,
Thank you very much for all the information. In just one week I have learned that the clutch uses the brake system to work. This would explain the two problems that I have. The clutch pedal doesn't come up, and the brakes don't work. My uncle told me (after we got it started) that the brake fluid has to be refilled every three months (sounds like a leak). Once I fill it up, and find the leak, I am hoping that it goes and stops a bit better :ahhhh:

I will have the full VIN posted here , while this statement : "Jolly's site does have a registered V4008xxxxx which is a Chassis/Cab 19,500 GVW, V6 with a 305E." sounds exciting a 19,500 GVW truck.. good grief. And I will post some more photos.

I am very excited to get working on this truck!

Can anyone tell me how the "two speeds" in the rear-end work? My uncle states it is a low and high gear.. Does the "pig" physically have two speeds/gears in it?

[jagarra]

NAPA has new master cylinders for a reasonable price. If you have a hone, you can rebuild the master yourself. Slaves are also available, as well as wheel cylinders. Sometimes it is best just to go new and replace all the parts especially if the vehicle has sat for a long time and pitting has occurred.
When I did my vehicle, which sat for about 7 years, every bit of the hydraulics, clutch, brakes and wheels cylinders, had to be rebuilt or changed for new.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Welcome to the club!

About the leaky brakes/clutch, the dadgum slave cylinder goes out and leaks pretty good fairly often. Here's one at Amazon i've had in my cart for a few months haha.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PYG89M/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


I betcha if it ain't in the brakes that's where it's leaking. Take a flashlight around under there (can you stand up under there? LOL) and peek.

[POWERSTROKE]

Should be a red button about an inch in diameter clamped on the gearshift lever right under the knob. OR, I've seen buttons on the outside edge of the gearshift knob about a quarter inch by quarter inch by quarter inch.

The 2-speed axle on your truck shifts electrically. If the shift style is the red knob, down is low, out or up is high. If you have the other style, high & low positions should be marked. Accelerate the truck in gear and simultaneously depress the clutch, let off the gas pedal, and shift the 2-speed to high. If your on pavement you probably only need to use the 2-speed to split 3rd &4th gears.

To shift from high 3rd to low 4th, depress clutch and release gas pedal, shift main trans from 3rd to 4th, then shift 2-speed from Hi to Lo. Engage clutch and floor gas pedal.

For a truck able to be loaded to 20,000# I think a 351 or 401 would have been a better engine choice but the 305 will get the job done, just don't be in a big hurry.

[6066gmcguy]

I can tell you what I had to do on my truck, and it only had 8,021 miles on it in 2012 when I got it, I had to rebuild the entire Brake & Clutch Hydraulic system including the Hydra-Boost, I had all but one wheel cylinder leaking, and the master cylinder was full of dirt, and this truck spent most of its live inside, from 1965 to 2004 when it was taken out of service.

I covered most of this in my Builds & Journals theard, 1965 GMC 3500 Rescue Squad (http://6066gmcclub.com/showthread.php?t=47298), starting on page 4.

Hope this helps you out some, keep in mind my truck is a tad smaller, its a 3500.

[BillT]

By the way, your truck once had the "GMC 4000" Emblem at the top of the fender near the door, but I can see that someone did a sheetmetal repair there and looks like they discarded it.

[bigblockv6]

If you have uncovered the engine ID yet, looking at the pics of the engine it appears your truck has the optional 305C V6 rather than the standard 305E. The distinguishing characteristic is like all 305C engines is it has the higher mounted water pump & housing rather than the lower mounted style of the 305E. What that also means in 4 rings per piston rather than 3 & valve rotators.:thumbsup:

[Winston]

All,
I want to thank everyone here for helping me get this far along. Some updates:
1) I put brake fluid in the master cylinder, and pumped it full for about 15 minutes. Fluid turned rusty, then brakes started to get a better feel. And as mentioned, the clutch worked as well. I took a picture of the master cylinder, the line on the left goes to the clutch. Never heard that one before. So, there must be a leak somewhere, will have to trace that one down.

2) Scraped the motor block as suggested, found the stamp. 305E. Was hoping fora bigger motor for a 4000 series, but I guess you get what you get when you inherit :) .

3) Moved the truck a bit, reverse still sounds TERRIBLE when shifting, may need some work on that.

4) The high/low on the transmission shifter is in a picture as well.

5) The oil hasn't been changed in probably a decade, according to my uncle. The truck was only used for a couple weeks a year, to pull the crop out of the field, and taken to the elevator. Only thing Uncle did was put brake fluid in it... Can't wait to change that oil.

6) I have gas leaking from the carb after a couple of minutes of running. from the point in the picture.

7) Not sure what the other brake line is for, I will have to trace that down as well.

No lift that I can see on the truck.
The VIN # is
V4008 P G8023E

Thank you again everyone for the help. If anyone has any ideas on how the clutch works with the brake master cylinder, or any information on what I have provided, that would be great. You all have been very generous in your information.

[bigblockv6]

The 305 was the only V6 in the 4000 series in 63 but what is odd yours is a 305E with the water pump housing that comes with the 305C, could the engine have been replaced at some point?

[David R Leifheit]

4) The high/low on the transmission shifter is in a picture as well.


My '63 4000 had the shift integrated with the shifter knob. That looks like the standard "afterthought" type. Since yours isn't a "Heavy Duty" I wonder if the two-speed rear was added (dealer order?)


No lift that I can see on the truck.
The VIN # is
V4008 P G8023E


V = Vacuum Hydraulic Brakes
40 = 4000 series (typical 23,000 GVW class)
08 = 175" Wheelbase

P = (build plant?)

G = 1963
8023 = 7023rd truck built
E = 16,001 - 19,500 GVW Rating

----------------------------------------
For comparison:
----------------------------------------
*My* 1963 4000 series
VH4016 G1750F
V = Vacuum Hydraulic Brakes
H = Heavy Duty
40 = 4000 Series (23,000 GVW class)
16 = 223" wheelbase

G = 1963
1750 = 750th truck built
F = 19,501 - 26,000 GVW
Mine is actually rated at 24,000

On Driver's Kickpanel:

[David R Leifheit]

The 305 was the only V6 in the 4000 series in 63 but what is odd yours is a 305E with the water pump housing that comes with the 305C, could the engine have been replaced at some point?

Actually a 351 was available as an option for 1963. Or so states the plate in my '63 4000 series.

[Winston]

Hello all,
A quick update on the 4000 series. First, thanks again everyone, I appreciate even more information.

Got the truck started again, and reverse didn't grind, and first worked great. Then my luck ran out, and must have lost pressure in the brakes and clutch. Put the big ol boy right through my metal barn wall. Just didn't want to stop, and the brakes didnt stop it, and the clutch wouldn't let it go into neutral. No stopping that big boy, and I didn't pull the ignition key fast enough. Wife not happy.

So I will be tracing down the leak, it must be somewhere. Oddly enough, after I pumped the brakes and the clutch a couple of times, I was able to start in neutral and back out just a bit (so I could fix the barn).

I want to change the oil, but I am getting two different types of oil filters. One looks huge, and the other is a standard mobile 1 filter. The filter looks giant on the motor, but I am not sure it is in some housing or not.
Has anyone ran the SeaFoam through one of these engines prior to changing the oil? Knowing the oil hasn't been changed in at least 10 years, I am a bit concerned about damage from the SeaFoam.

And how does the clutch share the master cylinder with the brakes?

Thanks again everyone, I really appreciate all the help.

[jagarra]

Your master cylinder has 2 chambers, one for the brake and the other for the clutch. Each with it's own fluid reservoir, they are just under one cap. Each has their own piston actuated by their respective pedal. If it pumped up and then lost pressure on the clutch or bake, then I would suspect a leaking wheel cylinder and clutch slave. NAPA has new ones at very reasonable prices, almost too good so rebuilding is in question. Like I mentioned, figure on rebuilding the entire system, it will save the other walls of the barn.;)

[Donny]

My '63 4000 had the shift integrated with the shifter knob. That looks like the standard "afterthought" type. Since yours isn't a "Heavy Duty" I wonder if the two-speed rear was added (dealer order?)



V = Vacuum Hydraulic Brakes
40 = 4000 series (typical 23,000 GVW class)
08 = 175" Wheelbase

P = (build plant?)

G = 1963
8023 = 7023rd truck built
E = 16,001 - 19,500 GVW Rating

----------------------------------------
For comparison:
----------------------------------------
*My* 1963 4000 series
VH4016 G1750F
V = Vacuum Hydraulic Brakes
H = Heavy Duty
40 = 4000 Series (23,000 GVW class)
16 = 223" wheelbase

G = 1963
1750 = 750th truck built
F = 19,501 - 26,000 GVW
Mine is actually rated at 24,000

On Driver's Kickpanel:
They had two different styles of 2 speeds One was electric and that one is actuated by vacuum

[Mike Caldwell]

A "two speed" axle allows a medium truck with only 4 or 5 transmission gears to operate in low range in the field and high range on the road.

Trucks (such as the flathead powered Fords I learned to drive in) that are seriously underpowered can also use the two speed to "split shift" -- tranny in 1st, axle in low, shift axle to high, then shift trans to 2nd and axle to low at same, time, repeat through 4th when you might be making 45 mph

Here's a good video of how a two-speed axle works and how to shift it.



If link doesn't show up just do search for "two speed truck axle" and you'll get a lot of options!

[BillT]

Just to add a little extra "Split Shifting" can be and is also commonly used in all kinds of trucks that have 2-Speed Rears.

I would split shift my 478 with the 5 & 2 all the time. Although I also wished that truck ('62 6500) to have the optional 8-Speed Road Ranger that was available back then.

[POWERSTROKE]

Yes, RoadRangers trump 2-speed axles and Brownies, no question about it. It's NOT a REAL TRUCK unless it has some kind of knob, switch, or button on the gearshift lever or knob to split shift. On 13 speed RoadRangers you win big with the knob to pull up for the high side then the switch to split the high side.

I've driven everything from 3-on-the-tree's, 4, 5, & 6 speeds, 4+2, 5+2, 9,10, & 13 speed RoadRangers, 5+4 Brownies, 5-speed Allison's with 3-speed Brownies, YES, we started out loaded in Direct drive in the Brownie and shifted into O/D on the fly. Guy Dad drove for had a '64 Emeryville with 220 Cum-a-Part, and 5+3. Way I understand it, both drive axles drove in low side, one axle drove in intermediate, other axle drove in high side. Loaded to 65,000-70,000# gross it got with the program pretty well for the time period. Now my 20 year old pickup has 220 HP! And is underpowered. More gears make the most of limited Horsepower.