1964 GMC Model 1002 build journal

[tbucketnut]

Thought I would start a build journal for my newly acquired truck. Not sure the direction it is going to take but here are a couple pictures of the before.
Truck is a long bed with factory 305E engine and SM420 transmission and Dana/spicer44 rear end, power steering.
Truck had been painted blue and is now black, the original color was light green. It is wearing Ford hubcaps.
I know I want to retain the Big block 6 cylinder sm 420 transmission.The rotted out bed wood was covered with some sheet metal. First order of business is to give the engine a service: ie oil change then tune up and adjust the valves to spec.
I'd like to start slowly towards collecting some correct parts, it is missing the air cleaner.
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Picture of the original bed that is pretty well rotted out.
Also, found some damage under the truck on the forward most cross member, the one that the radiator mount is on. Appears somebody used it as a tow point sometime in the past and ripped one side right out of the frame rivets, the radiator is being supported by the lower hose. I missed this completely when I was giving it a once over, would of been a great speaking point for lowering the price of the truck. Luckily, with the help of members here, I was able to locate another one quickly.
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Back for another report:
Yesterday spent the day removing the damaged front cross-member and the four rivets that once secured it to the frame, I attached a picture of that mangled mess. I'm going to have the radiator pressure checked just because it was knocked out of its lower hangers. It is a nice three core and it looks like it has escaped carnage. Speaking of carnage, I found some more damage by the drain plug, the oil pan has been pushed it, and probably was the reason somebody broke the cross-member trying to unstick the truck in the past. There was a small hole in the pan and somebody in the past had ran a sheet metal screw into the hole with a piece of rubber. The drain plug couldnt be remove unless the sheet metal screw was removed first, probably the reason the oil was as black as I ever had seen before. Because of this, I'm sure the oil hadn't been changed since Christ was a child. I will have to hunt me down another oil pan.
Anyway the goal is to get all these things sorted out before I put it on the road and see what else needs to be done. Next week I will be dropping the oil out of the SM420 and Dana/Spicer 44. Then after welding the hole in the pan, I'm checking brakes then it is top side for tune up/valve adjust/compression test and new coolant. A big shout out of thanks to Cliff (LizziesmeistersV6) for sending me a correct air cleaner. BTW, if any of you GMC guys need a sm420 rebuilt, I'm up here in the pacific northwest, my home shop is setup to go through these, would be willing to trade labor for some parts I might be needing in the future. I always have one ready to go.
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Got the truck purring like a kitten, love the sound of those solid lifters. Valve adjustment was way out, loose on some tight on others, fluids changed: oil, new mineral oil in the trans and hypoid gear oil in the rear. Radiator mounts changed, coolant flushed. Before I put it on the road, I have to get a look see on the brakes and find the leak in the master cylinder. Then have a rebuilt kit coming for the power steering control valve, it is leaking badly, might stick a little brake fluid in the ps resevoir to swell the seals and see if that helps. Found an oil bath air cleaner from a member here, thank you sir. Also, after the valve adjustment I ran a compression test, most had 115 psi, two with 100. Thinking it could use the valves ground and some new guides. BTW, it took almost 7 gallons to fill the cooling system, 3 gallons of concentrate anti freeze. Good god, these engines could of never over heated. What a monster. Welded up the oil pan pin hole.This truck has needed tlc for awhile, now it is going to get a full cab off, after I get to see what all it will need. Probably start in the spring.

Steve

[tbucketnut]

Sunday spent the day picking up the shop from the mess I made the week before. It is a good time to find all the tools that you have looked for but couldn't find because you left it by the bench grinder or on the press plate. Wasn't able to settle in on a truck name yet, but I have the family brain storming now.

I had to buy a new door actuator on the driver's side, so now I do not have to roll the window down and reach out the window to open the door from the outside. My seal kit on the power steering control hasn't came in yet, so I havent checked out the brake system, so no maiden voyage yet, but the truck starts and idles well.

Here is a little project I have to finish before getting serious on the 64 GMC, it is a little 235 for a buddies 52 5 window I'm assembling for him. In the mean time the 64 lives here under the carport
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Tackled the leaky power steering pump today, found that the leak was on the return nipple, somebody in the past had tried to fix the leak by welding it. Ended up disassembling the pump, putting a seal kit into it, glass beading the housing. I then ground off the bad weld job around the return nipple and then braised it. Threw some rattle can semi gloss black on it and reinstalled it. No more leaks in the pump. Getting close to getting it back on the road, tomorrow I'll look at the brakes, then if they check out it is time for some street trials.

[tbucketnut]

Good day in the shop today, got a lot accomplished. Pulled the front wheels off and then the front hubs and brake drums off for a look see at the brakes. Brakes looked good but the last owner didnt drive much as evidence of all the cobwebs in the brake backing plates. Was able to get some oil seals and pulled the bearings out for inspection, cleaning and repacking. Got it all back together and put on some GMC hubcaps I got cheap from an 80s truck, threw the old ford hubcaps in the trash. Went out for the maiden voyage, and returned unscathed. Truck drove out really well for a 55 year old girl. :upyes:

Next up is into the cab to remove the seat to give the cab a good cleaning.

Steve

[Ed Snyder]

Good day in the shop today, got a lot accomplished.

Next up is into the cab to remove the seat to give the cab a good cleaning.

Steve

Looks awesome, Steve -- keep up the good work!

[LordNatedawg]

Got it all back together and put on some GMC hubcaps I got cheap from an 80s truck, threw the old ford hubcaps in the trash. Went out for the maiden voyage, and returned unscathed. Truck drove out really well for a 55 year old girl. :upyes:

Next up is into the cab to remove the seat to give the cab a good cleaning.

Steve

Get those hubcaps out of the trash. They have a use. My GMC came with Ch*vy hubcaps. I use them to hold spare nuts and bolts. Lol.

Congrats on the maiden voyage!

[tbucketnut]

Nate, never thought of that, great idea.
I'm calling my son this morning, he is going to be 35 and tell him I got schooled by a 19 year old. see at 61 with many years of wrenching, I learned something new, thank you for that.:goodjob:
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Another good day in the garage. Turned the gas space heater on because it dipped below freezing. Installed a seal kit into the very leaky power steering control valve today. Last week did the pump. The only leak left is just a drip from the rear diff pinion yoke. So, probably attack that one next.
Here is the truck today after a nice leak free ride.

Steve

[tbucketnut]

Decided to start attacking some of these electrical gremlins. The parking lights and turn signals mounted in the hood were non working, high beams were inoperable too. along with that no turn signal dash indicators. A quick look at the firewall connector, looked bad , cleaned it up but was making good contact when I finished. I ended up running individual ground wires from the parking light housing to the firewall. Everything works as it should. I have a sneaking suspicion that because of the way the park lenses clip in, they fail to keep contact electrically as the 55 years has come and went. The dimmer switch was kaput and replaced it and the melted connector, now all my T3s light and the little blue light in the dash does too. It was a good Sunday in the shop.

Steve

[TJ's GMC]

Subbed, nice truck.

[tbucketnut]

Thank you sir. Nothing to report this week, I've been down with a nasty cold. Caught it from touching the pen at the DMV when I changed the title over and wrote the check. The gift that keeps on giving.
Steve

While I'm on a rant, how bout this one: I live in Washington and travelled down to Oregon to get a rust free truck, done that twice now. My 53 5 window came from Medford and lived on the farm, had fifty pounds of caked on mud in the under carriage, no rust. The GMC hailed from the Willamette valley and was almost as nice. Anyway paid a premium price to get the truck I wanted, I had looked for years to find cancer free sheet metal. I go to Oregon and for those that dont know Oregon does not have state sales tax. I bring the truck up here and titled it and the first thing the lady at the DMV does is get out the old car price guide. Proceeded to tell me that a number one truck is worth 65K, I laughed at her and told her the truck is a basket case and will not need to register it because it wont be road worthy for five years. Slight exaggeration on my part, you get the point. Well after paying 700 dollars to retitle it, I walk out of there bruised pretty good around Christmas time. I fail to see the connection on how this state seems to feel they can tax a truck bought in another state, I guess I'm dumb. WE have the highest taxes up here second only to california, the last election we voted in a $35 dollar annual tabs and the attorney general says the voters dont count, the governor repealed it. Sounds like taxation without representation up here in the socialiatic state of Washington. Rant off. The tax paid isnt based on what I paid but more to the perceived value of the truck based on condition. We can thank all those kooks at Barrett Jackson for that.
Steve

[snazzypig]

The Pacific Northwest where you live is one of the most beautiful regions in the entire world. Seems the socialist commies always take over those places and tax the common man to support their dead end agenda. They are also moving here and trying to take over Colorado. Since this is a build journal, I guess the relevant message is that it it's getting harder and more expensive to build and maintain an old truck. Merry Christmas!

[tbucketnut]

Snazzy, Merry Christmas to you too. It is beautiful here and where you are too. Funny how Colorado and Washington States are on the same plain. Both socialistic republics, both legalized marijuana first. My father was going to retire there when he got out of the USAF in 1972 but found out it was a high tax state on dual incomes which include a federal retirement. We had ten acres in Colorado Springs and were going to build. Anyway I found a more beautiful place to live when visiting southern Germany's Bravaria and also Austria last year. GMC Tom lives there check out his build:<br><font color='red'>To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic?</font><br>

[tbucketnut]

Happy News Years Eve.
If you go out this evening keep safe and lookout for the other guys too.
I am retired from the fire department now, put in 32 years and can tell you tonight is a night filled full of fun and happiness and also horrible tragedy, as you all know usually after the New Year rings in and heading home. Be responsible and caring please.

On another note, I finally named my truck today, I figured it was fitting to name the GMC a male's name because of the big block V6 and GMC status. His name is Enoch. BTW for those that care my 53 3100 is called Patty Ann after my wife's best friend. Even though it sports a 261 truck engine and sm420 it is the girl compared to the mighty GMC.
Anyways Enoch got its new plates today, and it is added to the insurance register too.

I feel compelled to tell you all about the entirely nice nature of individuals that this forum has. I posted up questions about pcv s in the 305 and found that they were basically obsolete. I received a package yesterday with two brand new-old stock valves, one for each head and with that a nos filter for the system. Thank you so much to Dave D. (Quigley)for his complete generosity and dedication to owners of GMCs and their trucks. This day and age this sort of thing is seldom heard of. I am really at a loss of further words. He paid it forward for me, someone that doesn't know me but wanted to show good will and kindness to a person with a similar interest.
I am just starting to get my hands dirty on this truck but want to help someone too in response to Dave's kind act. I have a cherry front cross-member for 60-66 trucks, this member is usually damaged because someone usually hooks a chain hook to the center eye to pull the truck. Usually bent all to heck or even pulled from the frame rivets. Anyway I have this piece that I would be willing to send to somebody in need, it is glass beaded and perfect shape and primed. The only catch is you pay forward to another person something you have surplus of. Lets keep this gesture of good will going. The world start to become a better place, at least among GMC owners.
Happy New Year,
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Hello all, got a little bit done in the garage yesterday. I decided to replace the PCV paper element located in the canister. To my surprise the canister unscrewed very nicely, I have heard war stories on how they can get locked on. Anyway, the canister was void of any filter, so God only knows how long it had been sucking unfiltered air into the pcv. Just another page in the chapter on how this old boy has been thoroughly neglected in the last years.

Since getting Enoch license plates last week, I have logged about 50 miles on him. It is a pleasure to not smell blowby gases anymore by removing the vented cap and putting the filter in the pcv. I am really starting to appreciate a real truck engine for the stoutness built into it and the sound of mechanical lifter is just plain music.. Big shout out to Quigley for hooking me up with nos pcvs and filter.

The last couple days it was cooler in the pacific northwest so I decided to take a look see into the heater. The heater core had been bypassed by the PO, so I figured it was a leaker, but there was also no fan operation either.

So I started removing it. Was pretty happy with the condition of the sheet metal parts, no cancer or rust, those will go into my glass bead cabinet today for a cleanup. The fan motor was seized and so was the squirrel wheel on the shaft. I heated the wheel around the motor shaft and shot some PB on it to soak over the night, today put a little more heat to it and it slide the wheel right off. If anything over the years, I have learned patience and it paid off again. I took a few pics.

The heater is an airflow type but it is the single knob thrift heater so it has the smaller core. After looking at the parts, I see the core mounting plate has a stencil to guide you if you want to cut it out for the larger core (pic #3), which I'm inclined to do. I plan to add a manual shut off valve up on the engine so I can shut the hot water off in the summer.
Also, I see many replacement heater cores are aluminum and the core thickness is substantially less 1.5" versus 2.5" for the copper ones. The price of the aluminum cores is about 1/2 of what a copper one. Mine is original and cannot be rebuilt because the inlet and outlet tubes were destroyed by an owner in the past. I'm inclined to pay the price and getting the full size/thickness core but am really on the fence and need some input.
Replacement fan motors appear cheap and abundant even oreilies has one on the shelf but it is made in china and failed the bench test of not spinning new out of the box. Any info in the direction on a fan motor would be appreciated too. I did verify the original color of the truck , looks like light green. Question , what is the correct color for the heater box, is it semi gloss black??
Steve

[tbucketnut]

And a couple more pics

[snazzypig]

Steve, If you're using the VDO PM351 fan motor, the orange wire is positive and gives the motor a clockwise rotation looking at the shaft end. I've used these motors a couple of times with good results. Not made in the USA, but cheap if you shop around. As for the heater core, I personally would pay more for copper.
Keep up the good work!

[snazzypig]

Yes, semi gloss black for the heater box.

[tbucketnut]

Thank you sir, for your info.

[James]

The heater is an airflow type but it is the single knob thrift heater so it has the smaller core. After looking at the parts, I see the core mounting plate has a stencil to guide you if you want to cut it out for the larger core (pic #3), which I'm inclined to do. I plan to add a manual shut off valve up on the engine so I can shut the hot water off in the summer.
Steve

I used an H valve (see attachment) to maintain the flow to and from the engine. I am not sure, but I believe the OEM left it flowing all the time to allow heated coolant to reach the thermostat in a timely manner. It is vacuum operated off (remove vacuum to turn it on) and I have not created a mean to control it in the cab yet.

[tbucketnut]

Interesting James, I will have to look into a way to control the water flow, I might just keep it simple and have a manual valve I can turn off in the summer. I'll see what I have stashed around.

I managed to get the entire heating assembly off and the fan motor is toasted, and the heater core was original to the truck and evidence of a leaky core. So I ordered another core from the Filling Station, decided to modify the heater box to accommodate the larger heater core, mine is the airflow thrift heater and has a 7-1/8" long heater core, went to the full size core which measures a full 9-1/2". So it is roughly 25% larger. The Filling station cores are a full 2.5" thick like the originals, some of the other vendors sell a 1.5" thick core and you have to modify the mount to secure it to the box, plus it is effectively 1/2 of what these are in heating surface. Interesting enough, the mounting plate for the core is stenciled to be cut out for the larger core, it literally took less than 5 minutes to make the change. I'm glad I did, this heater works great blows hard and hot.

Here are a couple pictures of the heater box parts after I glass beaded, painted and assembled.

Now onto a new set of valve cover gaskets to cure an oil leak on the passenger side.

[tbucketnut]

Hello all, been busy in the shop finishing up an engine R&R for a friend that is going in his 52 Chevy truck, so my 64 GMC project has sat.
But now have a little to report. I decided to add a power brake booster to my brake system, I'm still keeping it all drums but I did update to a dual master cylinder. I figure it will compliment the factory power steering and is one of those options that will be enjoyed and one of the few that will actually make the truck more valuable and easier to resell, if ever the time comes, which I doubt. There are lots of kits available but I did not want to drill any holes in my firewall and wanted it to fit and work like the factory. Finding a correct 1964 power brake booster is getting hard and then would be looking to rebuild it so I ordered a booster from rock auto for a 1967 GMC and purchased a really nice engineered spacer/adaptor from the Captain on the 67-72 chev. truck forum. It does require a little fab work on the push rod but that is working out easy enough.

Also made my day, I scored a set of .020 under main bearings for the 305 on fleabay, I have been looking for months.

[James]

Don't forget to drill a new hole in the brake pedal lever. It should be moved down 1", otherwise the brake will be touchie. Or use an OEM brake pedal lever that is used with power brake.

This is what I had found on the Internet. See attached document for everything about brake system.

[tbucketnut]

Thank James, will read the doc. file.
Appreciate your comments and help greatly.
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Today is the official beginning of the cab off restoration. Got the cut off wheel out and a sawsall and started in on the bed disassembly. Removing the bed was a snap utilizing the lift and some support straps from the rafters. Had enough for the day today with the cleanup, back out after it tomorrow. Looks like the original color was green.
Thanks for watching.
Steve

[snazzypig]

Great work you're doing, very quick and efficient! Will be watching. Interesting tropical looking tree there.

[tbucketnut]

Thanks Snazzy, I am doing this one a little different from my 53. I'm going through the rear frame area, differential and box first.

The tree is a palm tree and it is growing like a weed, go figure with all the rain we get in the pacific northwest but we dont get a heavy freeze here and that is the key, I think. On the other side of the yard I have a giant redwood growing, I planted it 35 years ago and it is 100' already and almost 6' through the base, you can see that in the same picture.

[tbucketnut]

Quarantined to the garage the last few days, decided to start working on the back 1/2 since the bed is off.
The frame will get degreased and cleaned,primed and painted. The spicer rear gets new front yoke seal, 2 piece drive shaft gets new ujoints and center carrier bearing assembly, new shocks, wheel cylinders rebuilt and new shackle and leaf spring bushings. I will be replacing the brake hard lines too.

[tbucketnut]

Wrapped up the back 1/2 today. Waiting for my bed wood kit to arrive with all new hardware probably in the next two weeks or so, it is coming the slow way freight. Really pleased on how it all went back together. With these tough times going on right now, it is easy for me to just go out in the shop and lose a day or week or two. The positive thing is the sales have gone on some of these special expensive parts and was able to take advantage of that. Was happy to pay extra to MAR-K and buy American.

[tbucketnut]

Decided to start on the bedsides today, Will do some cleaning up on the insides then some sanding. Managed to glass bead the rear bumper brackets and get them ready for paint. Hope a lot of you can get some garage time in while this COVID19 is still running around.

Stay safe out there,
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Been working on the bed sides and front panel and tail gate. Stripping and doing hammer and dolly and body work. Not a lot of dents this bed was very well cared for over the years. Somebody had coated the bed sides inside of tailgate and front bed panel with bedliner. This stuff really preserved the condition of the parts but it is an absolute bear to strip off. To do it right it would have to be chemically stripped I feel but I plan on recoating the bedsides and front panel inside tailgate with bedliner again so no need to take it all the way down.

This truck has had at least two canopies on it over the years as evidence to the 11 holes in each bedside top rail. I ended up mig welding up the holes, which means I have to repaint the bedsides now. So since it is getting repainted I'm changing the color and shooting the entire truck in a different color. There are a couple places I want to check to see if there is any corrosion anyway like the bottom of the front fenders and front of the doors. So this seemingly easy bed wood replacement has turned into a complete truck re do.

[tbucketnut]

Well one thing leads to another. I absolutely hate needless drilled holes and abandoned drilled holes in the interior of the truck. The rear inside cab panel had 10 holes in it where somebody had installed two different gun racks in it. I have nothing against gun racks and would of kept it if it was still on the truck but the only thing left were the evidence of discarded drilled holes. So I planned on filling these holes and re-shooting the interior in the correct color. Somebody repainted it gold and I just cant take that color.

Again one thing leads to another, I decide to make a panoramic rear window now so I'll be cutting up the outer sheet metal and replacing the inner cab back panel, at least I dont have to weld up the holes now. Always preferred the big windows over the small back window trucks anyway, since there is a well fitting panel being made now, meaning I dont need to hunt down a donor truck. I decided now was the time/. So with shipping the back panel was 5 bills delivered to my door plus I have to buy new glass and weather stripping. I've been saving so much money being quarantined and all, might as well feed my habit this way.

More to come

[tbucketnut]

Spent the good part of the day grinding out spot welds that retain the inner rear window panel. Used a cut off wheel to cut along the top of the panel and around the pinch weld of the small window. It all came out ok. The inside of the roof sheet metal is unprotected and is showing surface rust so I am next going to have to address that.

[tbucketnut]

Good morning, it has been productive here today. It was a pain to grind out all those factory rivets, but at least that job is done. I still need to clean up the mating surfaces of the inner panel and roof and door pinch welds but it is trial fitted and am very pleased with the fit. For anyone wanting to do this, the panel I used is available from Classic Parts. This is one part that was remanufactured and done right, no surprises and I anticipate it to weld up really good.
Thanks for reading,
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Hello fellers. Took a good year and 1/2 off. The pandemic hit and I decided to build a bigger shop. I have completely outgrown my 20 by 24 shop. If you can believe it I did a cab off restoration on my 53 Chev 5 window. Even painted it in there. Never again, seems I was spending 1/2 my time moving things in and out to make room to work. My new shop is 24' by 44' with 13' high ceilings. It took me a year and a half to build it, permit process, getting through the material shortages and so on. Then the move over with tools and machinery. I'm feeling my age lately. I'm now officially starting back on the 64 GMC. Pretty stoked. One of the pics shows a sm420 hanging from the chain hoist. I lifted off the transmission jack, done packing around 150lb transmissions.
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Started removing the two front fenders today. I saw some rust bubbles on both the bottoms of the fenders that will need small patches. Interesting crayon marks on the ends of the front support. 720 trim number and cust for custom cab trim on the other. Oakland Assembly Plant.

[duallyjams]

Congrats on the new shop. I know what it's like spending more time moving thing around to make room to work in a small garage.

[tbucketnut]

Thank you sir. I keep pinching myself, it is so nice to have room to work on things. Entire front clip is off now. So pleased everything came off just one bolt that got twisted off, so overall very happy. The only rust repair will be on both fenders lower patches. Core support and everything else looks great. Today will get that big lug of a V6 ready to pull.

[tbucketnut]

Well my parade is getting rained on. My V6 is out and I've completed measuring up everything. I bought a set of main bearings last year and have connecting rod bearing too. The piston bores have a .006" ridge at the top and so it will need a .030 over bore. Problem is I have not been able to source pistons. I can get cylinder sleeves and might be able to use the stock pistons and get them knurled to fit the sleeves. My pandora's box has been opened. I'd love to keep this engine, but it is not looking too good right now. I have another 305 complete motor I picked up and it was stored inside since it was removed. I might pull that one apart and take a look see too. Right now I'm punting the football and will play defense for awhile doing some rust repair in the rockers. I love this old GMC. Having a blast.
Thanks for reading, Steve

[tbucketnut]

I fear the days of the GMC V6 are numbered. I have been doing extensive searches for any and everything for the 305E. As of right now, I have managed to get most all of the engine gaskets. Pistons/rings standard size and over bore are non existent. Of course I could have a set made but not wanting to spend my full engine budget on just 6 slugs. I'm on the fence about abandoning rebuilding efforts. Ive got another engine and will look at that one too.

[snazzypig]

Steve, Don't give up yet. I have some pistons and rings if you're interested.
I'll send you a pm.

[tbucketnut]

Thank you Rolland aka snazzypig. Rolland saved the day by offering me his set of oversize 305 pistons complete with rings and wristpins. A thousand thank yous Rolland. I have met so many nice people here with top notch advice to go with. If it wasnt for Rolland my 305 engine would be dead and an off brand would of found its way into my GMC. It is not the same and it would of been a truck that I would of completed but not been in love with anymore.

The front clip is off the truck now and it is time to disassemble the front suspension and steering components. It is getting all new tie rod ends, power assist cylinder and valve. New upper and lower ball joints and A arm bushings plus front bearings and brakes.

I have some serious cleaning to do first. A leaky power steering valve collected about ten pounds of grease and dirt buildup over the last 50 or so years.

Pretty stoked to get started here. Engine is in the machine shop getting hot tanked then bored and honed, crank getting turned, then I'm doing all the assembly there.

[snazzypig]

You're very welcome Steve. I am glad I could help with your project. Your work is top notch and I'm sure your GMC will turn out great.

[tbucketnut]

Thank you sir, I like to put up some before pictures because once done, we tend to forget about the arduous cleaning projects these tend to be. I've been spending money like a drunken sailor again. Looking forward to a productive spring.

[GMCTom]

Steve, don't give up!

Remembers me on my control arms. Dirt and grease everywhere. When you have cleaned and painted them the smile on your face will be big :upyes:

[tbucketnut]

Hello all,
Update:
Front end is now complete. After disassembly, seemed like I was scraping and grinding dirt off the frame and suspension components for ever. It seems progress has been at a glacial rate at best.
Happy to report that all components have been cleaned the ones small enough to fit in the glass bead cabinet, got blasted then painted. I replaced all ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks, A-arm shafts as well as power steering slave cylinder and control valve/hoses. Of course bearings seals and brakes too. Also, bought a neat tool for cleaning off the rust and grime off the frame and parts, it is pneumatic and is called a needle scaler. This tool is a must if you plan on doing much of this kind of work. Better than wire wheels and doesn't make dust go airborne either.
Looks a little better now.

Now onto more work:

[tbucketnut]

So a couple months ago I found a suitable stock bore engine that I decided to send to the machine shop along with a .040 piston to have it bored and honed too. I was lucky to find a set of main and rod bearings , so I had the crank turned too. I now have the crank and block back from the machinist and will start to assemble this motor. I post up more as I proceed. But this is what I have thus far. Also, I might add these replacement pistons have the extra compression ring and I decided to use a set of rods from a 305C motor. They are noticeably bigger stronger rods than the 305 E motor to make this bottom end bullet proof for my 1/2 ton truck.

Cheers,
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Well I find out not all 305 blocks are created equal. This bit of info might be useful for others and should be a sticky. I thought the only difference in the 305C engine were beefier rods but I find my main bearings do not fit the main webs and cabs. It turns out my 305C replacement engine I found was casted in 1974 and the main caps and webs are different. It takes a bigger main bearing. So I now have a fully machined .020/.020 crank and main and rod bearings I cant use.

When I checked the casting date it had a year 4 which I assumed "64" but it is indeed "74" based on block casting. I got lucky and found main bearings only in .010 undersize so I had to machine another crank. Note I belive the last two years of production 1973-74 305 engines have the bigger mains. Why did they change for two years and then discontinue the engine? Things that make you go Hmmm.

[lizziemeister'sV6]

Just a guess but I bet it was do to an excess of excess inventory that fit the bigger V6's and corporate bean counters. :chatattable:

[tbucketnut]

Moving right along on the V6 assembly. Block ended up .040 over on the cylinders, crank turned .010/.010 on the mains and rod journals. Cam freshened up at Delta cams along with the lifters were resurfaced. Mains came in at .0025 oil clearance, rods were in at .003 oil clearance. These pistons have the three compression rings, gaps are in at .020. Skirts were a little tighter than I liked but the machinist said it will be fine .003.
Notice the picture of the chain hoist used to lower the crank into the main bearings, these cranks are so friggen heavy.

[snazzypig]

Looks like a first class engine build Steve. Any tips on installing the rope seal, and did you put it in dry, or soak it in oil as some people have done?

[tbucketnut]

Hi Rolland, I did not use the rope seal that was in the FelPro kit. For the last three stovebolt inline six engine I have assembled I went with Best Gasket rear main seals. The later blocks 1955 and later I used their rubber lip seals, which are the best out there IMHO. The earlier blocks I used a rope seal provided by Olson Gasket here in Port Orchard, WA. They build obsolete gasket kits for farm tractors and obsolete vehicles of all makes and models. They advised against the newer rope seals available. The asbestos ropes are all long gone unless you have an old gasket kit, So I had them provide me with their own version of rope seal available for the 305. They advised to install dry, I used a little of "permatex 2" along the outside edge of the three sides of the bearing cap surface/block, and they also included the two skinny side bearing seals for the rear main cap to go with. I used very lightly permatex 2 on these too. Like all rear mains installs, take a deep breath and hold it and wait for the first engine run cycle. For some odd reason I don't have too much anguish over it this time. Probably just my ignorance. I'll have some pictures of your wonderful pistons shortly.

[snazzypig]

Thanks for the great information Steve!

[tbucketnut]

Few more hours spent in the shop. Cam, lifters/timing gear and chain installed.
Opened up the oil pump to inspect and clean. I fully expected to do this and reassemble it but found significant scoring to the rotary gears so I will replace. You would think a pair of gears immersed in oil would not wear but it is shot. I usually replace the oil pump on all rebuilds as a rule but I saw a machinist inspect his and regasket it and run it. I'll get some pics up tomorrow on that one.
Steve

[tbucketnut]

Man, I got three days in a row in the shop.
Today was a long day, Bolted down the heads, rocker shafts, adjusted the valves and installed the valve covers. Degree wheel helps with rotation of the crank through the firing order. So far no hiccups with the exception of the AC plugs I bought from Rock Auto. 5 were AC-4 and the sixth AC R455XLS. What the heck?

[LEWISMATKIN]

your build looks great!!! keep up the good work.

[tbucketnut]

Not much work getting done on the GMC through the holidays, but did get an engine dolly built to get this heavy big block off the engine stand. I have a 4 wheel engine stand but all the time the 305 was on it getting assembled, I was constantly worried about dumping it over. Especially after the heads and huge front cover got bolted down. The dolly I built will allow the entire engine bell housing clutch and sm420 to rest easy until I'm ready to drop it in. If anyone is interested in the dolly specs pm me and I'll give you the dimensions. Cost me $50 with nice cast iron wheels rated at 300lbs each. Also, I sent my motor mounts to Steel Rubber and had new rubber vulcanized to the mounts. They do really good work for anyone wanting to know. Other than that about the only other thing was I put a kit into the stromberg WW and freshened it up, bent a new pump to carb line as well.
Cheers
Thanks in advance guys

Steve

[James]

Great job. Can't wait to see it in your truck.

Is the rubber boot on your clutch fork new? If so what the part number and where did you get it? Thanks.

[tbucketnut]

Yes but it doesn't fit all that well.
LMC part number 30-1920

[tbucketnut]

Small update for me.
Sm420 all rebuilt, installed bellhousing clutch pressure plate new throw out bearing. Sitting on a dolly now until it is time to put back between the frame rails. Now back to the floor and outside/inside rockers on the passenger side.

[Walys60]

Hi Rolland, I did not use the rope seal that was in the FelPro kit. For the last three stovebolt inline six engine I have assembled I went with Best Gasket rear main seals. The later blocks 1955 and later I used their rubber lip seals, which are the best out there IMHO. The earlier blocks I used a rope seal provided by Olson Gasket here in Port Orchard, WA. They build obsolete gasket kits for farm tractors and obsolete vehicles of all makes and models. They advised against the newer rope seals available. The asbestos ropes are all long gone unless you have an old gasket kit, So I had them provide me with their own version of rope seal available for the 305. They advised to install dry, I used a little of "permatex 2" along the outside edge of the three sides of the bearing cap surface/block, and they also included the two skinny side bearing seals for the rear main cap to go with. I used very lightly permatex 2 on these too. Like all rear mains installs, take a deep breath and hold it and wait for the first engine run cycle. For some odd reason I don't have too much anguish over it this time. Probably just my ignorance. I'll have some pictures of your wonderful pistons shortly.

Tbucket...GREAT information, thanks! I wasn't finding the gasket kit from anyone and these guys have the whole thing (upper and lower) and include their MUCH better rope main for $195 shipped.

[tbucketnut]

Been busy doing a bunch of auto repair work for extended family members and my project was on hold. No back to the passenger side inner and outer rockers, cut out and the new metal fitted nicely. Next work day I'll mig it into place. Regarding this reproduction metal, I was extremely pleased with the brothers metal. All of it fit like it was original GM stamped. Pretty impressed. I do have some left over metal I did not use if any of you guys in need of the front and rear door jamb pillars on both sides, Ill make you a smoking deal.

Glad I could help you back a little Rolland. Olson gaskets are great people and work hard to please people whom are trying to find kits. Here is a pic of your pistons in their new home.
Steve

[snazzypig]

Wonderful work you are doing Steve! Yes, those pistons do look much better in their rightful place than in a box.

[tbucketnut]

Extra Metal left over

[tbucketnut]

Hello GMC truck lovers, New update on my project. Finally got the cab lifted off the frame and set on a roll around dolly I made from some scrap steel.
The plan now is to remove the windshield because you can now stand right in front of it and remove with care.
A buddy of mine came over and he saw how far I am taking this restoration and he was puzzled over why I wouldn't remove the windshield and check and clean/paint the windshield channel.
I have to admit I am a little unorthodox on my methods. But when you are in your 60's working on something from the sixties, you have to work smarter not harder when you can.
Also with the cab off, you can see I have some more frame cleaning and painting to do where it sat.
This was also done by design because the days of me laying on my back scraping old undercoat off a body with all that dirt and grime falling in my face are over.
Next on the frame after finishing cleaning/painting is finish up building the main brake line and install on the right frame rail. Then onto the tank to fuel pump hard line. Next the finished engine and trans will then be united into the frame on some nice revulcanized motor mounts.
The cab will get pressure washed top to bottom after a manual degrime. Then the sanding and prep will begin.
Cheers guys.

[tbucketnut]

Finished Chassis met with finished engine and transmission today. A huge milestone in this project.
Hopefully, this will propel me into working on the cab next.
Thanks guys for watching the journal. Hoping for weekly updates now.

Steve

[tbucketnut]

Friday update:
The gantry and chain hoist came in handy again. Eased the cab over on its back to work on the underside. Degreased with zep industrial cleaner, then wire brushed/wheel, cleaned again, then seam sealed the floor and rocker patches. Then a nice coating of rust reformer. The truck had just the minimal undercoat spray it had from the factory came out pretty clean. Today will be coating with a suitable undercoat or bedliner, will see. I'm pretty impressed with these new rust reformers.
Thanks for watching gents.
Steve

[Prowbar]

Steve, that is proper restoration work. My cab is fully saturated with mud and grease and asphalt...

Good job! And thanks for the sheet metal.

[tbucketnut]

Your welcome David. Many here have helped me along my way as well. It is a really good group of people albeit small group.

[tbucketnut]

Hello GMC nuts.
Little update and some progress on the truck.
Been working on finishing the cab and getting it ready for primer. Filled all the drilled holes in the cab from a couple gun racks and other things hung on the interior over the last 60 years. My mig welder got a pretty good workout over July fixing some rust issues on the rears portion of both front fenders. The rear fender braces looked good but the rust came from all the debris trapped in the bottom of the braces on the inside of the fenders. It is a classic spot on these trucks to get cancer.
Disassembled both doors removing the side glass ,regulators and door latch mechanisms too. Found that both doors needed small patches along the bottom in the front and rear. I knew I would find it because the 5 year old paint job was bubbling in those locations. Didnt find any rot through but there were pin holes and the metal was thin there. I think the patches were only 3" by 4" in size maximum. Was able to get rust reformer in behind the patches so that should cure any possibility of that happening again. I plan on wire brushing the inner door area as much as I can get and coat it all in rust reformer then coat with a bedliner material or undercoat. Next I'll reinstall the doors on the cab and check for fit before prepping for primer.
Cheers for now.
Steve

[tbucketnut]

And some more pics of the door

[tbucketnut]

Hi all:
Passenger door alittle more involved. Found rust pitting on the inside of the bottom of the outer door skin so had to do a bit more surgery. Also found some pinholes in the bottom of the door so had to buy a inner door patch as well even though I didnt use too much of it. This is it for my rust repair it is all done now. Took me longer than I thought the truck should of been in primer by now but looks like next year is the plan for paint.
PS: As you can see in the last pic, I had to take more of the bottom of the door skin to maintain the square edges. Bit more work but well worth the time. Pretty impressed with the fit of the patch panels we can get now for these trucks.

[tbucketnut]

Hello all, weather broke here in the PNW and all my sheet metal replacement is done and it is time to primer the cab. Just had a few small dents on the back of the cab above the box that was able to take out with a hammer and dolly then skim coated some Evercoat rage filler on it. Some sanding and now ready for a couple coats of high build primer. Tomorrow, I'll wipe it down with some surface wash and squirt it out in my new airtight paint booth. Hope to post up some more pictures soon. Pray for 70 degrees!
Cheers everyone. Steve

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Hello all, weather broke here in the PNW and all my sheet metal replacement is done and it is time to primer the cab. Just had a few small dents on the back of the cab above the box that was able to take out with a hammer and dolly then skim coated some Evercoat rage filler on it. Some sanding and now ready for a couple coats of high build primer. Tomorrow, I'll wipe it down with some surface wash and squirt it out in my new airtight paint booth. Hope to post up some more pictures soon. Pray for 70 degrees!
Cheers everyone. Steve

:thumbsup:

Cant wait to see it after the paint! Hey, the house nextdoor to me is for sale. You can come get all the 70 degrees you can handle!