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lwrdrhvn
February 27th, 2020, 07:49 PM
Hello!

I am stuck on finding an ignition switch for my car. When i go by vin or model number, the switch i get doesn't match up. Old project truck with probably a lot of history.

I am a rookie and learning as i go. Attached is a pic. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

AZKen
February 27th, 2020, 08:07 PM
This (https://www.classicparts.com/1962-66-Ignition-Switch/productinfo/53-415/) and This. (https://www.classicparts.com/1947-66-Ignition-Switch-Cylinder-w_Key/productinfo/53-475/)
Also your truck is not referred to as a C1000 as you have it in your heading. From reading your posts, it would be a I1001 if you are sure it had a inline 6 and not a V6.
If the V8 runs good, leave it in.

lwrdrhvn
February 27th, 2020, 09:22 PM
Thanks for the info. I keep confusing the Chevy C series with just the GMC 1000 series. I do believe the engine was swapped out for an 8 cylinder and is no longer a V6.

lwrdrhvn
February 27th, 2020, 09:33 PM
I see the one you linked. However, i don't think that fits what i have going. I've purchased it and the terminal where it connects has 6 slots and the configuration doesn't go with the layout of that switch.

Maybe somebody did some crazy electrical work and switched it all out and left me to try to figure it out.

AZKen
February 27th, 2020, 11:56 PM
The ignition switch connector seems to have 6/7 contact receptacles. The New switch has 5. Only 4 or 5 are used. If the new switch fits onto the connector you show, you are half way there. There seems to be no other switch available to fit that connector and utilize it's locking tabs other than possibly a 67-72 era switch.
How many wires are coming off your connector from how many contacts?
Does the new switch fit onto the connector even though 2 contacts are not used?
If it does not, we can move to plan B and C. Not a serious problem.

There is a 67 68 69 Car switch known as 1116658 or This. (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-d1415b/applications?page=2) It has the 7 blades and 3 locking tab/keying tab receivers for your connector. I have no idea if it fits your dash hole and bezel.

lwrdrhvn
February 28th, 2020, 12:39 AM
From the connector I see five wires that are connected to receptors. Other two slots are without wire and look like blanks.

I appreciate you taking the time to respond.

lwrdrhvn
February 28th, 2020, 12:40 AM
Also, the switch that I have does not fit in any arrangement.

AZKen
February 28th, 2020, 12:57 AM
If the switch fits the dash and the bezel and you like it, cut off the connector and connect wires to switch using crimp on female blade terminals available everywhere.
1. Bat
2. Ign
3. Solenoid
4. Acc

Or keep searching for the switch that fits the connector. Let me check some more. Keep everything you have. I will get back.

lwrdrhvn
February 28th, 2020, 01:31 AM
Will do. Better than buying a bunch to see if one will fit. I guess I just wanted reassurance that this was an option.

Thx!

AZKen
February 28th, 2020, 01:45 AM
Where is old switch, where is bezel nut. Post pics if possible.

lwrdrhvn
February 28th, 2020, 03:17 AM
The truck was purchased without switch or ignition key or nut. Just the harness I pictured in the attachments.

AZKen
February 28th, 2020, 03:26 AM
Can not find a separate switch that fits your connector. This (https://www.jegs.com/i/American+Autowire/073/500670/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlMnBpp7z5wIVg6DsCh2tLQy0EAQYAS ABEgJ_2PD_BwE) may be something that will work.
This page has your connector configuration and the switch and tumbler info. The connector fits their switch even though the switch is missing an unused terminal. I have looked for someone else in the past. This whole Chevy/GMC/Car/Truck ignition switch thing is all screwed up by the vendors. 4, 5, 6 and 7 contact switches out there. If you need a new connector like yours, they are available, but all the aftermarket switches don't fit that connector. The vendors don't sell a connector with their switch. Only AAW has a switch and connector (which is not original as they explain). It's the only thing I could find.

I still say the best option is that switch I linked, and you purchased. Wire it up with female spade terminals. Every vendor sell that one as a replacement. Always will be available.

Maybe a used donor or NOS would be your thing.