Clutch pivot arm

[Troyport]

Hi all, doing a clutch on my 68 GMC 351 V6 with the NP435. Had the clutch and pressure plate rebuilt to assure correct parts. Bought a new clutch fork and it is identical to the worn out one that I removed. Welded and hand ground the pivot ball, because I couldn't find a new one, conforms to the socket perfectly, snaps in nice. New throwout bearing, same as old one. Ready for tranny install. However, I can see that the throwout bearing will not be centered on the fork. That is, the ears of the fork will not sit at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Looks like the fork is short. I am looking at it through the bell housing where the transmission will bolt up, I have the truck high enough that I can sit on the ground and look perfectly level at the pressure plate, so I can hold the throwout bearing by hand perfectly centered on the pressure plate, and the fork ears are about 11:30 and 6:30, and will get more off center when the clutch pedal is depressed. Is this okay? Or do I have the wrong clutch pivot fork? (that is, the new one and therefore the old one, are wrong.

[AZKen]

6:30 and 11:30 is sure not that far off. Don't understand why same parts as removed would not work. Especially if new parts said used in GMC V6. It is quite common for folks to put the throwout bearing on backwards, but don't know if that creates what you see.
Try to search internet to examine pics of a GMC clutch install.

You didn't say if it functions, you just say it doesn't "look" right?
I just answered because I saw you had no responses. This will bring more.

[Troyport]

I don't know if it works, just didn't think it looked right. The throwout bearing is correct. I just figured perfectly centered is better, and was on my 68 c10 L6, so was hoping someone could say "yes, that's the way they look in our trucks" or "No, something is wrong"

[Jim A]

It is a terrible PITA to put it all back together and find it doesn't work.
It does seem that if you are using identical replacements, the fact that they seem off may be OK and the way they are supposed to be.
I did the whole routine recently with a '60 4 speed Muncie with good results; it may not be similar enough to of help,

[Prowbar]

A (good and well-taken) picture is worth a thousand words...

[Troyport]

I have read that the aftermarket pivot forks are junk, so I found a nice used OEM fork. I will put that one in and see how it looks, and report back..

[lizziemeister'sV6]

It's a shame that aftermarket manufacturers are allowed to PRODUCE and SELL POS to rebuilders/restorers that put their trust in them to receive an item that is equal to or better than the OEM. The main issue is that most if not all the items are from overseas companies who give a rats *** in workmanship and engineering - the really sad part is that these so called REPRO parts suppliers was once legit United States of America owned and operated. I have no time for foreign crap and will search for OEM either NOS or used parts when needed.

[George Bongert]

It's a shame that aftermarket manufacturers are allowed to PRODUCE and SELL POS to rebuilders/restorers that put their trust in them to receive an item that is equal to or better than the OEM. The main issue is that most if not all the items are from overseas companies who give a rats *** in workmanship and engineering - the really sad part is that these so called REPRO parts suppliers was once legit United States of America owned and operated. I have no time for foreign crap and will search for OEM either NOS or used parts when needed.

Most of the aftermarket parts for our trucks (and other vehicle restorations) come from CHINA where they really don't give a d*mn about quality or the correctness of the part being reproduced!! It's time that we cut all ties with foreign manufacturers (ESPECIALLY CHINA) of REPRO parts for our vehicles whether they are antique or late model!! The USA MUST COME FIRST and bring those manufacturers who left the USA for "greener pastures" back home where they belong!!

[Troyport]

Roger that!

[Troyport]

Attached is a picture with the aftermarket fork. Linkage is temporarily installed and adjusted snug to hold the bearing for the purpose of this picture. Thoughts? Thanks.

[BobBray]

Looks fine to me. The clutch pivot looks a bit lower than the crank centerline, so the fork is going to be at a slight angle. If the new fork is exactly the same as the old one, I don't see how the angle could be any different.

[Prowbar]

Thanks for the picture. This is how mine looked as well.

[Troyport]

Thanks for the replies! Yes, the pivot ball is lower, so the fork is on an angle. This doesn't concern me. The off center will create some side load where the bearing slides on the input tube, to me not ideal. But apparently will work fine. Just didn't know if someone before me did something wrong, and as I matched parts I was blindly making the same mistake.

[Jim A]

It is a little disconcerting to see the contact points not directly opposite each other, but they may get closer as the T/O bearing moves in and out.
You might try that motion with the old parts to see if they can line up at 12 and 6.
The hardest thing I found was getting free play (full release) and full travel.
I hope you get an "ah ha" moment.

[Troyport]

The fork is already on the "inswing" in that the non- center will get worse. I will see how a good gently used OEM looks. I am not concerned about getting freeplay and full disengagement based on what I see with the linkage.