Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Tires and alignment complete. I went with Hercules TerraTrac CH4. A nice highway tire that is very affordable. The PO had 245/75/R16, but I switched over to LT235/85/R16. A taller and thinner tire should help with MPG and it greatly reduces steering effort. Running 40psi in all 4 tires for now. I can switch that to 60psi front, 80psi rear if it ever gets a heavy load.

As for alignment specs, I was surprised to find that the Hunter alignment machine at work had factory specs for a 66 GMC 4x2. Modest positive camber, about 2.5* caster, and a pretty insane amount of positive toe. It wanted 0.18*, but I left it at 0.15*. Just a word of advice: if you bring your truck somewhere for an alignment, make sure to give the tech coffee and donuts. Camber shims are no fun to mess with. The tech will be grateful and will ensure that your alignment is dead on, not just "good enough". Talking from experience here. Lol.

And of course, my posts would no be mine if they didn't end with a new problem. My blinker fuse keeps blowing at random. I haven't found any way to get it to blow reliably; I don't know what's causing it. One minute they work, but the next time I go to turn them on I suddenly have nothing. For now I'm going to do a "fix" by installing a breaker instead of a fuse. That way I can get blinkers back when I'm on the road. Also saves me money. I've already put 3 fuses in it this week.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

I'm still trying to track down the source of my blinker fuse issue. I've inspected all the wiring that I installed and can't find any dead shorts or worn through insulation. The only wiring I haven't inspected is within the steering column itself. But without a consistent fuse blow, it's hard to say what the issue is. Sometimes it blows when I'm sitting stationary, sometimes it happens as soon as I try to use the blinkers, sometimes it happens when I'm turning. Some drives it doesn't happen at all.

I added a few grounds to my battery and engine. It won't solve the issue I'm having, but it will help with overall electrical efficiency. I already had the main ground from battery to engine. I added battery to chassis and frame, engine to body, engine to frame. I also added one from hood to chassis.

I've been enjoying my truck and discovering new problems with it. I expected new problems to arise once I actually started using it. On top of my blinker issue I have discovered that my coolant reservoir is too small. Kind of expected that. I'm running my truck hotter than some classics, as well as running a lower pressure radiator cap; there is going to be quite a bit of expansion. Not a huge issue, but should be addressed. I also found a loose u-joint in my driveshaft. That will need immediate attention. No fun having a u-joint explode at 65mph. Ask me how I know...

All that being said. I am still very much enjoying my truck. It isn't registered yet so I can't take it to work yet. But I have been using it for grocery runs or quick errands down the street. That will have to cease until I can fix the u-joint though.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Sort of an update and a warning of what is to come. I'm excited for this one.

First. I haven't had much time to work on Papa Smurf. So the u-joint is still shot and my blinkers aren't fixed. However, I think I found where my blinker issue lies. While moving my truck in the driveway I happened to bump the connector for my steering column and my blinker relay suddenly started clicking. That tells me I have a short in that connector. Poor pin fitment, bent pins, or similar. I need to pull the connector apart and take a gander.

Second. While doing some spring cleaning in the backyard shed, I found an old Rochester carburetor. My dad says it came off his 74 GMC and "never quite ran right". It was not the original carb for that truck though. The markings suggested that it originally came off of a 1977 Ch*vy.

Anyways. I sent that carb away to Sean Murphy Induction for a Stage 1 rebuild. That should be done in about 15 weeks. Continuing on, I decided that I want to pair that carb with a computer.

I'm a mechanic on modern vehicles, so I understand computer controlled fuel injection fairly well (I am far from an expert though). A friend of mine showed me how to control the AFR of my carb with an oxygen sensor. A product called the Carb Cheater allows the carburetor to self adjust to a set AFR based on readings from an oxygen sensor by inducing a controlled vacuum leak. I am oversimplifying it a lot. It does so much more. And the best part is that install is easy and non-invasive. It will not ruin your carb if the system were to die. This product is similar to a feedback carburetor, but updated with superior modern technology. This product is also on a 15 week wait time.

My Edelbrock runs just fine. But my goal is to have a truck that is more powerful and more fuel efficient. I think a computer controlled Rochester is the way to go. When the carb and computer arrive I will install both at the same time, but I won't turn on the computer until I have verified that the carb is tuned perfectly. That way I know I'm getting the most out of the system. The computer is an enhancement, not a band-aid. The carb needs to be in good working order first. That means a solid tune with the proper settings.

And just to finish off, my truck is finally registered. No smog required in Nevada for any vehicle older than 1967 which means I can get normal license plates.

it's gonna be a long 15 weeks waiting for my new toys to arrive. In the meantime I still have plenty of work left to do on my truck. Stay tuned!

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

The carb cheater is a great idea. From a guy on YouTube called Thunderhead289 for anyone wondering.

But I think that with a little knowledge about carb tuning and a wideband O2 sensor you can come a long way, without the need for a carb cheater.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

You're right. A little practice is all it takes to get a carb tuned right. But the cheater is still useful even after a perfect tune is achieved. As mentioned before, it cannot replace a solid tune. It can only enhance.

In other news. I think I fixed my blinker issue. Touching the connector actually had nothing to do with the problem. My finger was just touching the wire for the flasher unit and providing it with a path to ground. However, inside the connector was a pin that was flattened. It was sliding under the female pin instead of inside of it. That can cause excessive current draw and heat. Time will tell if the issue is actually resolved. I was never able to get a reliable way to blow the fuse.

I also tried to fix my loose u-joint. I got the driveshaft removed and took some measurements, only to find that the u-joint is fine and my differential yoke is stretched. I don't have the tools to replace the yoke at home. I'll have to bring it to my shop on my day off. Should be a quick swap.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Merry Christmas! I hope you all are enjoying time with family this holiday season.

Papa Smurf is unfortunately down for the foreseeable future. Last night I attempted to drive it around the neighborhood to view Christmas lights with my family. I didn't even get down my street before it blew a blinker fuse, sprung a major fuel leak at the pump, and 3rd gear disappeared.

I can shift into 1, 2, 4, and reverse, but the detent for 3rd seems to be gone. I'm guessing there is an issue with the shift fork, or maybe the detent is full of crud. Either way the transmission needs to be looked at.

The fuel leak obviously needs to be addressed as well. A while ago I had a small leak, but I was able to fix it just by tightening a loose fitting. That same fitting is leaking again, but it is much worse.

As far as the blinker issue goes, I have exhausted every potential cause except the wiring in the steering column. I will have to pull the column out and disassemble it. The short has to be internal.

As always, this presents opportunities for upgrades. I like the heavy duty nature of my truck and I want to keep that theme going. Since the transmission might need a rebuild, maybe I look into swapping it for something else. My truck screams at 50mph and would benefit from having an additional gear just to bring down the RPMs at 55mph. One way to accomplish this is with a NV4500 transmission. A 5 speed manual with a granny first. These transmissions were used by The Big Three behind various big blocks or diesels. Not uncommon to find one in a 8.1L Chevy bucket truck. The ultimate dream would be to find one of those bucket trucks and take the whole powertrain. I would be converting my truck to EFI at that point, but it would provide me with all the towing and hauling power I could ever ask for.

Realistically, I need to open up my current transmission (NP435) and figure out what's happening.

I am still waiting on my Rochester carb. I was told it should be shipped out within the next week or two. My Carb Cheater has already arrived. Neither of these are going to be of much use if my truck can't shift gears.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

I feel your frustration...
Rebuild kits for NP435's are available if needed. As you said, could be as simple as a stuck detent.
NV4500's are the most common in Dodge trucks but need an adapter plate. Not sure if the GM unit just bolts up the the V6 bellhousing. In both cases the shifter moves back in the cab, very close to the bench seat.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

I have a SBC 350, so my trans options are nearly endless. The NV4500 did come with Dodge commonly, but they were also in quite a few GM trucks behind the small block, big block, and LS motors. GM trucks of all kind are much more common at my local wrecking yard than Dodge.

Regardless, after a bit of thought and research, I think a better option would be to utilize a TR4050. A more robust, smoother shifting version of the NV4500. My old NP435 will be stashed away for later use. I can mate it with my 351E and use them to restore a different vehicle back to factory original some day.

The TR4050 swap will not be cheap nor easy. But I'll let you all know how it goes. Just don't expect any updates on that any time soon. Gotta save a bit before I can afford that. In the meantime I'll try to tackle my fuel leak and blinker issues.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

It seems that this thread was reverted to Dec 25. I'll try to catch it up to the best of my memory.

I received my rebuilt Q-jet a back in January. A stage 2 rebuild from Sean Murphy Induction. I have not had the chance to install it yet. I'm trying to track down various bits and pieces such as choke linkage and vacuum port adapters. It'll happen soon enough.

I fixed my fuel leak just by replacing the offending fitting. A few months have passed and the fuel leak has not come back.

Lastly. I have been driving my truck around the block on occasion to avoid flat spots in my tires and try to get my blinker fuse to blow. Since December, the fuse has not blown again. This issue is getting extremely frustrating. No patterns to it as of yet.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Got a few more updates to share.

I've slowly been gathering parts for my q-jet. I needed some things like the divorced choke linkage and some various fuel and vacuum fittings. I should have everything I need now. I plan on installing the carb around the same time I replace my motor mounts, so that I can use a lift plate when the carb is off to hold my engine up.

Speaking of motor mounts. I discovered that the P.O. of my truck used the wrong motor mount perches. There are several different styles that vary by engine, vehicle, year, etc. Whatever he used was a front mount perch. Obviously that won't work for a rear mount application (unless you booger weld it in place like he did). I ordered some 67-72 motor perches that should fit significantly better.

My blinker issue is still ongoing. I might have made progress with diagnosis. My blinker fuse popped while I wasn't even in the truck. It was idling in the driveway. I verified the blinkers worked prior to walking away. When I came back they no longer worked. I have yet to duplicate this incident, but it suggests that I have a very small short somewhere that is causing gradual heat buildup. The first thing I'm going to try is replacing my LEDs on the blinker circuit one by one. I want to make sure the circuitry in the switchbacks isn't the issue.

Lastly. I got tired of my coolant reservoir. It was only a quart sized reservoir and it always overfills before my truck reaches operating temps. I calculated that I would need approximately 3 quarts to allow for expansion and drawdown. Just to be safe I ordered a 1 gallon coolant reservoir and then proceeded to make a custom bracket for it. I used 1/8" flat steel and bent everything with a hammer and vice grips. It took 2 days to get everything bent, drilled, and painted. But it came out great and the reservoir is very sturdy. A total of 6ft of flat steel was used to make the bracket.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Nice work on the brackets and reservoir. Never had any issues with coolant overflow.
The V6 takes 8 gallons of coolant (didn't believe it at first until it all pours in). When the engine is cold I cannot see any coolant in the radiator but when the engine is hot it is about 1" below the cap. Anymore coolant and it will blow it out via the hose under the cap.
I always drill a small (.080-.100") hole in the thermostat so air cannot get trapped between the thermostat.

As far as the blinker issue goes, did you check the harness in the steering column for any exposed wiring? Did you have the park lights on when the fuse went out?
Did you check/replace the hood harness?
Do you have a good ground from the hood to the rest of the truck?

IMO, as far as the drivetrain goes, I'd build up the 351 V6 and rebuild the NP435 transmission. They are sweet shifting units in good shape. The close ratio version is the best for the V6. Yours is probably the wide ratio.
Regear the rear end to 3.23 gears using the DoctorDiff gear set or install a Gear Vendors Overdrive.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

The 351 V6 and my 350 V8 are also running at different temperatures. On the factory gauge my operating temp is right on the edge of the normal line, closer to overheating. I've verified several different ways that around 200-210* is at that zone. I would guess that the V6 operates closer to 160-180*, because my 180* thermostat starts to open when the needle is dead center of the gauge. More heat is obviously going to mean more expansion. I keep my radiator full to the top to prevent oxidation.

My wiring issue is strange because everything is new. And I never had the blinker issue after installing the new column. The issue came about after I rewired the rest of the truck. I added ground straps all over. Battery to body, frame, and engine. Engine to frame, and frame to body. Also added a hood to body. When it blew the fuse while idling, there weren't any lights on in the truck. I did find that one of my switchback LEDs was slightly damaged. I installed some new ones and I'll just have to see if that helps or not. I really should take a multi-meter and try to find the short.

I also agree with you on the V6 and NP435, but I don't think I'm going to do it on this truck. I have my reasons, even if they may be frowned upon here. The V6 I picked up a few years ago will be used in a vehicle some day, but it won't be in Papa Smurf.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

I FINALLY FOUND MY BLINKER PROBLEM!!!!!!

Decided to do some more diagnosis today. I needed to be able to recreate the issue. I ran my truck with no lights on for 30 minutes. Nothing. I turned on the blinkers one by one. Left - pause - off - pause - right - pause - repeat. No dice. Then I moved on to the reverse.

Reverse - pause- neutral - pause - repeat. Suddenly I heard a loud POP when I switched to reverse. I swapped the fuse out and repeated. R - N - R - N - R -POP!

I ohmed out my reverse switch and found that it was very intermittently shorting to itself, creating a dead short to ground when I shifted into reverse. Suddenly everything makes sense. When I initially started my rewire, I noticed that the PO had no reverse light bulbs and no pigtail on the reverse switch. He must've been having this same issue.

Just about drove myself crazy trying to track this one down. I absolutely despise intermittent electrical issues. But now it has been uncovered. I'm going to try and find a new switch that fits in the shifter base. Hopefully this is the end of this problem.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Awesome tracking skills! That must have drove you crazy and it was all due to a tiny little wire acting up.
:thumbsup:

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

:goodjob:Nice troubleshooting! Congrats.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Wow, starting off at 19 and still going strong 5 years later. You'll be a pro in no time!

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Out with the Edelbroken, and in with the Rockchucker. I finally found time to get my carb replaced. Used the Carb Cheater spacer and swapped from electric choke to divorced choke. I primed it, turned the key, and my truck came to life and ran like it was parked yesterday. Shamefully, it was actually parked several months ago...

The carb was rebuilt by Sean Murphy Induction. Unfortunately, Sean closed down shop shortly after delivering my carb. He got it tuned perfectly, based on what I could tell. I didn't have to adjust anything. Not even the idle speed. It was all dialed in.

I also replaced my water pump today, because my old one started leaking from a weep hole. Probably one of the only jobs I've done on this truck that didn't come with any surprises. Just a simple water pump.

Last thing I need to take care of is replacing the proportioning valve to fix an intermittent RF wheel lockup, then finish installing my Carb Cheater.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

It took over a year, but I finally got around to fixing my reverse lights.

I used a switch and pigtail for a 1980 GMC truck. Made a jam nut out of an old lug nut. Everything works as it should now.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

That's genius. In our older trucks we just lean out the window and yell, "I'm moving back! Get outta tha way!!!"
It's not nearly as effective or cultured!

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Well done piece of engineering and implentation.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Slowly fixing problems as they arise on my truck. Today was replacing the stretched pinion yoke. The old yoke was allowing the driveshaft u-joint to bounce and it was causing a major vibration while driving. After the replacement the truck drives noticeably smoother. Although there are other vibrations present that I will need to track down. My u-joints are all tight. The carrier bearing visually looks okay, but I may take my drive line to a shop to have that replaced.

The other items I need to fix are my brakes. My front brakes are hot spotted from past brake fires. And my rear brakes are not adjusting evenly. The right drum is either over adjusting, or the left drum isn't adjusting. I loosened the right side and tightened up the left to make them even. I will recheck them after a while to see if the problem reappears.

Lastly, I had to bypass the fuel gauge in my cluster. It is stuck reading 1/4 no matter how much fuel is present. I wired in an aftermarket fuel gauge for now, but I would really like to get the factory gauge functional again. It is capable of sweeping from full to empty, but when sending any signal it will only read 1/4. The aftermarket gauge is working, which tells me that the sending unit is not the issue.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Nice work. The fuel gauge should be easy to test, make sure you have the right fuel sender with the correct resistance. I'm pretty sure mine has a range from 0-30 Ohms. Later gauges go to 90 Ohms I believe. The aftermarket gauge might be for a 90 Ohms sender.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

My factory gauge had a similar issue. The ground wire (brown?) was shorting and had to be rigged to connect properly. If you wiggle the plug to the back of the instrument cluster, does it start working?

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

The connector pins is where mine problem was. I had bad solder connections between the pins and the flexible (plastic) printed circuit board. On mine, I cleaned off the old solder and apply fresh solder. No more problems. This type of work required experiences working with flexible printed circuit board, otherwise it will melt the board and become junk. This board use lead/tin solder and not the newer stuff. The lead/tin melt at a lower temperature and the new stuff will melt the board when you get it hot enough to melt the solder.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

That was my first thought. But the aftermarket gauge is 0-30. I bench tested the sending unit and both gauges to verify where the issue was.

Unfortunately that in not the issue this time around. No difference if I wiggle the plug at the cluster, wiggle the wire at the sending unit, nor relocating the sending unit ground. The issue is 100% with the gauge itself.

That would be the best case scenario if it's just a connection issue in the printed circuit. It certainly doesn't seem like a mechanical issue just because it does make a full and smooth sweep when turning the key on and off. I'll have to pop the cluster out one of these days and take a look.

Thank you all for your input. I do appreciate it.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

It has been a busy weekend. I'm just trying to tie up loose ends and get my truck to a safe, daily driver status (as much as possible for a 60s truck).

First, it was time to address my motor mount perches. They were wrong and didn't line up properly on the crossmember. The previous owner drilled holes in the frame to make them fit, then welded them to the old crossmember. I got them swapped with correct perches (part #T82244), and I also changed the oil soaked rubber mounts (part #T82282). All the OE holes lined up once I set the motor down. For the first time in 6 years my motor is now bolted to the frame AND the crossmember. What a difference that made. My truck barely vibrates on the highway now. It honestly drives smoother than my 2012 GMC, and I don't consider my 2012 to be a rough ride.

The next thing I solved was my headlights. I tried to use LEDs as an "upgrade" when I did my rewire, but they were awful. Horrible beam scatter, didn't illuminate anything outside of the cutoff, and likely blinded oncoming traffic. To solve this I bought a quad-headlight relay kit from Painless Wiring and converted everything back to halogens. Now my headlights use standard 9003 headlight bulbs instead of being sealed beam. I haven't aimed them, but it is a night and day difference in clarity and visibility. I can actually drive at night and see where I'm going!

The last thing I installed was more of a comfort item. I wanted a tachometer. I felt that my truck didn't have as much power as it should have, so I wanted to see what my RPMs looked like. Turns out I was definitely lacking power due to driver error. Initially I was shifting too quickly, which led to running out of gears before I was at cruising speed. The motor sounded like it was going faster than it actually was and I was shifting before I hit 2,500 RPM. Extending my shift points out to 3,000-3,500 RPM allowed me to get my truck up to a freeway speeds without issue. Now I can comfortably cruise at 70mph.

Please ignore how my tach is mounted. I realize it is...less than ideal. I'm using an existing hole in the dash for now. I'll move it to my steering column after I get a hose clamp of the correct size.

All of this prep work means I can now safely drive my truck more than just for grocery runs. Just in time, too. My 2012 sprung a coolant leak, so I am in need of a spare vehicle until I can get that fixed. 6 years to turn a beater into a daily. And I am nowhere near finished :D

I ordered a front sway bar kit. Should be a simple install, but I'll let you all know how it goes. Lastly, I need to fixed my warped brakes. My proportioning valve was never my issue when I had brake drag. I had preload on the master cylinder. Once that was fixed I stopped experiencing brake drag. But the previous events of drag and lockup obviously heated up my rotors, and now they're warped and hot spotted. At the very least that is a simple fix.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Just a quick update. I decided to aim my headlights before running errands tonight. They work great. Super bright. They still feel slightly biased towards the left, but I ran out of adjustment and can't bring them in any more. I think I can live with it.

Later in the night my speedometer stopped working. The odometer obviously did as well. It was never accurate to begin with, and the needle was never steady. Hopefully the issue is something simple like a broken cable. I will get to diagnosing it later. I have other means of monitoring my speed.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Sway bar installed! What a difference it makes!



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Taking corners or quick turns no longer causes things to slide around in the cab. The back end doesn't feel like it's about to swing around. Hitting bumps and ruts in the road no longer jerks the truck left and right. Such a simple device with a huge impact on handling.

I used Classic Parts #74-806 front sway bar kit. Comes with stock height brackets and lowered brackets. Install is simple if you already have 73-87 lower control arms.

1. Loosely mount the links to the bar and control arm
2. Grease the sway bar bushings and mount them to the bar
3. Mount your frame bracket loosely to the sway bar bushing bracket
4. Raise the sway bar until the frame brackets meet the frame. Helpers or strong clamps are recommended to hold the brackets to the frame
5. Position the brackets where you want them and ensure your end links are as straight as possible. Then mark your holes
6. Drill your holes
7. Mount everything and tighten
8. Enjoy

I've attached 3 pictures of my pitman arm to sway bar clearance. One shows a full left turn at ride height. Just over 1" of clearance between the arm and bar.


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The second picture shows a full left turn when a jack is under the left control arm. Somehow there is even more clerance.


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And the third shows what happens when you mount the sway bar upside down like a dummy.... Please cut me some slack. I wasn't finished with my coffee yet.


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Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

I finally fixed my front brakes. New pads and rotors (plus wheel bearings). While that did solve my brake pedal pulsation, I still have a vibration in the cab when braking. I will need to resurface my drums since they are likely warped as well.



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I also tried to figure out why my speedometer stopped working. I removed the cable from the transmission and spun it with a drill. The speedometer moved, but it was very bouncy. It was bouncy prior to it not working at all so I know that problem is between the cable and the speedometer.

I also removed the speedometer driven gear and the gear adjuster from the transmission. What I found was that the gear adjuster was seized and the rod that connects it to the driven gear was sheared. I got the adjuster freed up by melting out all the old grease, but I will need to figure out how to replace the rod that sits between them. I wasn't able to get a good look at the speedo drive gear, but I can bring my borescope home from work to check that out.



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I got some work to do to get my speedometer working again...

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Maybe this will help:

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Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

That absolutely helped. Exactly the same as the old one. It fit and my speedometer worked for all of 3 miles before I heard a ratcheting sound in the transmission and the needle started to "float" around 15mph. Then I heard nothing and the speedometer dropped out. I'm willing to bet the plastic drive gear has given up. I didn't bring my borescope home so I can't confirm that yet. But the adapter key is one problem solved. Overall success!

On the bright side, I managed to resurface my drums at work today. Braking vibration is now completely gone. My truck also seems to be coasting better. The left drum needed .030 to clean up. The right drum needed .015. After a 20 mile test drive I checked the temperature of my brakes. Both front discs were hot, but I could touch them without getting instant burns. That's normal, in my experience. The left rear drum was kind of warm, and the right rear was warm. A noticeable temperature difference existed but it was nothing drastic. The fact that I can touch all 4 without getting burnt means that I am no longer overheating.

Now I just need to monitor my front and rear brakes closely to make sure it doesn't happen again. I'm pretty sure I solved my brake problems, but we'll have to wait and see.

The attached photo shows the right drum after the first cut. Just one small low spot remained.


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And here's a video showing the left drum being cut. It only shows the initial skim cut, but you can hear just how little the cutting bit is making contact with the drum. Please excuse the shakiness. I was trying to operate a lathe and record at the same time.

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Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

Nice job cleaning up those drums. Reminds me I need to do mine. Tried doing the rear drums earlier but only had chatter because I clamed on the welded on sheet metal hub. Need to make a sturdy flange to clamp the piece properly instead of trying to work with the 3 jaw.

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

I'm going to preface by saying I've never used a 3-jaw lathe, so my suggestion may be useless.

What if you took apart an old front wheel bearing from an early 2000s GM truck? If you use just the hub and bolt the drum on it backwards, would that be enough to clamp onto?

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 

That's a good suggestion, I don't have a wheel hub laying around unfortunately.
3 jaw and 4 jaw just refers to the chuck (part that clamps the workpiece) of the lathe.
Ended up using the slotted mounting holes in the 4 jaw chuck to mount the drum. I just bolted it to the chuck and indicated it on the center bore that locates on the wheel hub.

Happy with the results, should give the shoes a nice mating surface. All 4 took about .030 to .040 to clean up.



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