Re: 1966 c20
 

Hey Hantke, I decided to man-up and get the shield off of my spare engine. Here are pics of it so you may get an idea of what to look for. Now maybe one of these days I will get the matching flywheel pan and this painted up and spend a an hour or two on the hoist at work swapping it out on the '55 instead of waiting what may be years before the engine has to come out!

Pic1-approximate view in place similar to your missing pic.
Pic2-flywheel side
Pic3-engine side

DAC

Re: 1966 c20
 

Cool! Thanks! I can't wait to have this thing running again! It's gonna be great to take it out on the road and know it'll be reliable


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Little by little she's going back together! I want to replace the old bolts, but right now I'm content with just making it all fit back together correctly

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Re: 1966 c20
 

Is there a way to bypass the ignition and make the engine turnover? I'm trying to isolate a wiring issue and see if I can get it to start again soon


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Hantke,

Make a starter switch with a push button and 2 wires with alligator clips on th end of them. Take one wire to the positive wire on the starter solenoid, and the other wire to the top left small stud on the starter solenoid. This should let you turn it over from under the hood without starting. If you go to the lower right small stud, it should start. Make sure you are clear of the fan, in case I'm thinking backwards.

Re: 1966 c20
 

Awesome, thanks! It's got no carb actually attached to the intake, I'm going to test fuel flow and all that first, then I'm hooking everything up and going through the wiring. Gotta get this behemoth out of the driveway!


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1966 c20
 

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I get the feeling this was jerry rigged


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1966 c20
 

So I tried the positive to the left stud, nothing happened. Tried positive to the right stud, it sprayed sparks.

*update*

Disconnected battery and messed with some wiring, tried again and still nothing. I think now that the starter is just fried, it was already on the fritz anyways.


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1966 c20
 

So I got the starter tested and it failed horribly, two different stores (gotta double check, right?) had it just make a loud thump then nothing. So I got a new starter thinking it was a good idea. The gear on the new starter is set so far back I don't even know how it could possibly connect if I wanted it to, and, the housing around the gear is actually between the gear mesh (go figure) so it will need to be trimmed. Is there a way adjust the positioning of the gear on the starter? The guys at the part store kept the booklet and the box to take my old core


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1966 c20
 

New starter positioning:


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And I just learned what shimming a starter does, sounds like I have a new project. Unfortunately I only have two spots to attach the starter instead of three because someone broke a bolt off in there and left it

Re: 1966 c20
 

So I got it all cleaned out and the new starter installed (after a lot of work, new starter had bad thread in one hole and didn't want to fit quite right). Anyways, after everything was setup, I try to turn it over and all it does is make one solid click. Not sure if this is the spacing or what, both the starter and the battery are brand new


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Local station sells non-ethanol. Costs more than the 10% fuels, but not a lot more. Put it in the motorcycles, they run better with it. And with their small tanks, it doesn't really cost more (more mpg as well).

Re: 1966 c20
 

you are missing the cap on the bottom. So no, they are not meant to be open. Just think of the dirt and crap that will get inside.

Re: 1966 c20
 

Thanks!

So I got my starter to work after shimming it, took a total of 1/8" of shims + a 1mm shim all on one bolt! Seems really excessive, but it works so I'm not really sure what to think. I also got the carb installed, and also got my throttle cable mostly hooked up, tomorrow's project is to properly connect the vacuum lines and throttle cable and see what happens. I tried messing with it and it wouldn't start, even with gas in the carb, but I'll dig into it more tomorrow.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

After a little bit of messing around I found out the float bowl had almost no fuel in it, after raising the float level it runs great, idle is way too high, but I'll fix that later today after I re install the exhaust properly



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Re: 1966 c20
 

Does anybody know of a good steering box rebuild kit or a parts list? I'm debating between trying to get all the parts and rebuild mine or just replacing it, it's a heft replacement with the cheapest up front being around $330 and I get a $125 core deposit later on after shipping it back, I haven't found anywhere with a rebuild kit but it seems that people are doing it. I also wouldn't mind upgrading if that's a feasible option as well. But right now I am stuck back in the driveway with basically no steering. (It went out moving it from the driveway to the curb, and I barely got it back without hitting anything).


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Re: 1966 c20
 

this fellow should be able to help you one way or another. he deals in chevy power steering stuff. if anyone will know he will


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ron

1966 c20
 

Thanks, I don't want to convert to power, I'm fine with manual but I'll still check it out


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Re: 1966 c20
 

did I say anything about you converting to p/s?. I think that the steering boxes are the same. cars, trucks even corvettes used basically the same hydraulic assist setup.
he will know where the parts are to rebuild your box
ron

Re: 1966 c20
 

Fair enough, everywhere else I've looked people point me to power steering setups so I assumed that's what you meant.. But thanks., website looks good, I'll try and call him when I can during business hours and see what we can work out, looks like he really knows about steering gear boxes


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Re: 1966 c20
 

So I got a pretty good deal from performance online and got my new steering gear today, installed, and went for a cruise. Gotta say it doesn't get much better than this! It runs great, turns great, could do a bit better on the brakes, but hey, can't win all the time!
I've noticed be only issue I have is that my idle doesn't smoothly go back down after hitting the gas, it kind of "works" it's way down. Other than that, I should probably increase idle speed a touch (low idle feels kind of rough)'and I should be good to go!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

The slow back down to idle thing happened to me several times. You have some type of air leak somewhere is all I can say. Also some valves being a tad tight will cause that. Best thing to do is plug All the ports off on the carb and if that helps more than likely your PCV is not sealed correctly. Engines hate air leaks...especially 2 stokes.

1966 c20
 

Thanks, I may have missed plugging a vacuum port on the carb, I think I got em all, but I'll double check. I may just need to replace one of the old vacuum hoses as well, and that's pretty simple too.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

I've been extremely busy with finals and now I'm switching jobs, but I adjusted my idle and and got it dialed in and I don't appear to be having any more issues like previously stated, the new steering box is wonderful, and doing great! Now my blinkers work about 50% of the time so I need to get that issue figured out, I've been told to add a ground directly to the frame but I'm not exactly sure where on the wiring I would add that. I'll be looking at a wiring diagram this week / weekend, any ideas?


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Re: 1966 c20
 

you should have a ground from the eng to the body(short one, back of the eng to firewall) and 1 from the frame to the body. make sure that there is good contact
ron

Re: 1966 c20
 

Okay, cool, thanks! I took the ground to the engine off and scrubbed it clean with a wire brush and re installed it, I can't say I've found one from the body to the frame yet thoufh


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Re: 1966 c20
 

I didn't look back in the thread to see what lights are involved, but I can tell you how I fixed my intermittently working signal lights.

The rear lights were poorly grounded because of rust on the screws and in the screw holes that connect the lights assembly to the body (this also affected stop and tail lights), which also provides the ground connection. The front turn signal light sockets needed to be removed and the metal parts cleaned to make good contact. I also used some sandpaper in the hole where the socket fits into the hood. And the metal bulb holder needs to be fully inserted. All lights are now working.

Before doing the above, I had already put in wires between the body and frame to ensure a good ground connection.

These trucks were built tough to handle loads, and the electrical system is not complicated. But electrical components and connections seem to be a weakness, with rust being a major problem.

JRMunn

Re: 1966 c20
 

Awesome, thank you! I pulled that little blinker fuse and it rattles pretty bad, I'm gonna buy a new one and see how it sits, if it's still got issues I'm gonna go through and do all that, probably gonna do it anyways. Thank you!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

So the blinker fuse was indeed the issue, and it's all good now, but I noticed after driving when I shut it off it sounds like running water and I believe it to be fuel. It drained my tank a lot quicker than normal and it believe it to be the cause, the tank isn't leaking and nothing smells like fuel but any insight would be great.

Thank you!


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1966 c20
 

Just an update:
So I have the same persisting fuel issue, 5 gallons at the gas station and I drove home where after two weeks my tank was bone dry again. Still can't figure it out.

On the other hand, I sold my car, and bought a a new-to-me truck. 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 with a 6.6 dura max turbo diesel!



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Re: 1966 c20
 

perhaps you have someone around with what they use to call a Mexican credit card.
ron

Re: 1966 c20
 

Ron, that was my first thought, maybe they were prying off the locking gas cap, but the last time I drove out to my buddies farm and parked it by the house and it still happened, so now it's happened in 3 different places


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Re: 1966 c20
 

how is your oil level in the engine?. if there is nothing on the ground. did you check your fuel lines under running condition,
ron

Re: 1966 c20
 

Oil level is about full, none of the fuel lines leak while running, or after turning it off, I've never found an area where gas is leaking out. I've replaced the soft fuel lines just in case and the cab doesn't smell like gas either, this one has me completely stumped. The last time I drove it I got out and pinched the fuel line until the draining sound went away and it didn't run out of fuel after sitting. Though I did only run it for about 3 minutes to move it.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

After getting the filter filled with fuel it ran fine, been driving it off and on with no issues since.
Began doing body work the other day!
Here's the finished cowl held in place for a color comparison:


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And the front fender after sanding and fixing some holes:


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And here sitting laid out to dry:


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I found a good one of the original color finally:


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And I burned a section to layer all the original colors, kind of a cool one!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Looks great! You could almost swim in that sucker. I hope Cecilia turns out half as shiny :)

:cheers:

Re: 1966 c20
 

Thanks! It's definitely not top-notch, mostly oriented to protect from any future rust, I opted to leave the dents and dings in the metal to represent that at the end of the day she's still an old farm truck that's been worked hard and played hard!
I'm currently debating between finding a whole new bed, or making her a flatbed, the bed is beyond repair monetarily, would be cheaper to just replace it. But I think she would be a great looking flatbed!

You'd be suprised what you can do with rattle cans, I have a D/A, sand paper, tack cloth, and rattle cans! Also very suprised at the quality of finish from a paint job done in 30 degree weather. If you want a cheap shiny durable paint job opt for a high gloss enamel and do it a few layers thick, then clear coat if desired


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Looks like it will serve the purpose great Hantke! I don't mind some of the trucks history being represented and preserved for the future. Restored trucks are needed to show what was available brand new and survivor trucks are needed to show how they lived and were used. The pic is the dash in my '55 GMC. The satin black is Krylon spray bombs and the blue-green and ivory is brush-painted with One-Shot sign paint.

Thanks for the update---DAC

1966 c20
 

This one is so beaten broken and scarred it would cost more to restore it proper than to buy a restored truck unfortunately, but it will most likely live a life of ease as a cruiser down by the coast after it's been completely coated in enamel and / or rubberized coating on the frame. I intend on doing a frame off some day when I'm not a broke college kid.

I like your dash!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Original factory clock in the 55, that's a rare piece:thumbsup: