New Spark Setup! Any tips on Installation?
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Hey guys, got all the pieces in for my spark upgrade on my 351E. New CNC HEI Distributor, Plugs and Wires. Couple of questions.
1. Has anyone installed this Distributor and have any tips? 2. What is the best plug gap for my 351E? Any help is much appreciated! Thanks everyone! Attachment 5525 Attachment 5526 |
Re: New Spark Setup! Any tips on Installation?
I have not used that distributor, but just put one on a Chevy 292, i INCREASED THE GAP TO .045.
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Not familiar with that dizzy. I'd try 8-10 initial. Also a set of spiral core wires helps. Gap the plugs .045. Pete(bigblockv6) has these plugs that are made to be gapped at .055. Hopefully he'll chime in on those, I think they are AC delcos.
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Re: New Spark Setup! Any tips on Installation?
Actually I have the plugs that are gapped at .060 which was common to HEI applications. It's AC R44XLS6 and works fine in my 478 with HEI. if AC isn't your choice of plug I'm sure it can be cross linked to other brands though I'm not too fond on Champion spark plugs:ahhhh: The AC plug I'm using seems to be the correct heat range for the 351E:ok:
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Regarding Champion spark plugs, stay away from them if at all possible!! On the farm we had a Farmall M tractor that would develop a misfire. After changing spark plugs, it wasn't only about 10 operating hours later, and it would be misfiring again, but never on the same cylinder. Please note that the engine DID NOT BURN OIL, so oil fouling of the plugs was not the problem. We installed Champion D-23 spark plugs, (hottest ones available) and the misfire continued to persist. So I asked a good friend of mine (tractor mechanic) what on earth could be causing our problem, and he asked me what plugs we were using, and when I told him Champions, he said throw those dam* things in the garbage!! They're junk!! We went to AC plugs, and never had a problem after that with our problem misfire!! |
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Went with NGK's on my 305. Gonna look into those AC delcos.
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NGK are good plugs, maybe look into crosslinking the AC number with NGK. :thumbsup:
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Champions were garbage 40 years ago when I worked for Ford.
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when i worked for gm garage, some of the new cars came with ac delco, and some with ngk from factory. i was told that they are the same manufacturer. i now have good luck with both brands. champion plugs do not work well in gm vehicles. they seem to work in dodges, but if you look up the definition of dodge in the dictionary, it says, to dodge, to avoid. good enough for me
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I've noticed the Champs work best on Briggs and Stratton motors.
NGK and AC's seemed good on GM's. I've seen a fair share of champs on f%%ds to. |
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I have been using NGK plugs for close to 50 years on my cars and motorcycles. Never had a failure, which I cannot say for Champion or ACs. I only use Champions or AC if I cannot find a cross reference.
As far as wires, Summit used to make a kit that had really long boots that were molded to the wire, they were solid wire,8mm silicon even came with a crimping tool for the distributor cap end so they could be trimmed to fit perfectly. |
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Thanks for the plug info. I pulled the original dizzy and got the gear moved over to the new HEI unit. If anyone else orders one of these, getting the retainer pin thru both sides of the gear can be a lil tricky. Going to stick the new dizzy this weekend and hopefully start this beast up for the first time in a couple of years!:upyes:
Will Post pics as soon as I get it in. |
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Meant to ask, you mind posting a link as to where you got the dizzy?
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I should have known. haha Didn't recognize that one, way different from the picture.
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Got all the dizzy in, but still wouldnt start. After a lil looking the PO had the fuel lines reversed at the pump! So now I have fuel, but all I get are pops and backfires every so often while trying to start it. Any suggestions as to next step? This may need a different thread.
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Re: New Spark Setup! Any tips on Installation?
Sounds to me that your timing is Way off due to either installing the dizzy wrong or you haven't advanced or retarded the timing enough. You Did have the engine at TDC right? And you did have the cap off watching which direction the rotor was pointing? In this case at the number one cylinder? And when you installed the new dizzy was the rotor pointing in the same direction as when you pulled the old dizzy? You don't Have to have the engine at TDC, but it helps. Long as you paid attention what direction the rotor was point when you pulled the old one and installed the new one it should start. Also be sure you have a full 12 volts going to that ignition. Did you get the plug wires in the correct order?
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Good luck, hope it purrs like a kitten. :thumbsup:
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Are you running a solid 12 volts to the distributor rather than a resistor wire that's used on the stock ignition?
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If I remember right, the resistor wire is bypassed to give full voltage when the starter is engaged. This might be a silly question (but I have done worse) - are wires from the distributor going to the right plugs to get the proper firing order? If not, this could explain some pops and backfires. I don't recall if it matters where this starts as long as the wires are in the right order.
JRMunn |
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what is the proper firing order? I put the wires back on the way the old ones were, but I guess I dont know if they were correct. He did have the fuel lines reversed at the pump.
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Firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2- It is also listed on the intake manifold.
#1 should be at the 6 o'clock position as you face it from the front, rotation clockwise. |
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Ok so the PO had the wires all screwed up! Got them put on correctly and SHE STARTED! But then I couldnt get her to stop! It just started racing like crazy, key didnt kill it so I had to choke it out. So Spark issue resolved, now why is it racing at idle and not turning off with the key?
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When you said "I ran a brand new power wire directly to the battery" you didn't run it to the dizzy did you? If you have a wire going to the battery from the dizzy it will never stop running cause the ignition isn't in the loop. It never stops getting power.
You will need to replace the resistor wire with a 12 gauge wire. The yellow wire coming from the starter will give you 12 volts during startup but once you stop cranking you will only be getting 9 or so volts through the resistor wire. How do you like your dizzy. I have mine at 55 gap and it runs great. The only thing I wish I would have gotten the small cap it would have looked more original. |
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I know very little about Ignition systems. Are you saying you have your plugs gapped at 55? I have mine at 60. I have to figure out the idle problem before I can do anything else. It is racing at idle. I have the vac advance going to the timed spark port on the holley. |
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.060 on Champion plugs? :ahhhh:
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Another question, Different topic, Is full 3" exhaust too big? Using the stock manifolds and down pipes then 3" thru flowmaster 50s. |
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What gear ratio are you running? If you're in the 3's 2 1/2 inch pipe diameter will be more than adequate. I you're at 4.56 then 3 inch will be fine.:upyes:
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I'm using R44XLS6 in my 478M which is one step hotter for 7500-8500 series trucks that came with this engine, though it's in my 68 3/4 ton 4wd pickup it should be fine, the heat range is just right for the 351E. I'm sure it could be cross linked to a step colder or hotter if need be. Funny thing is the plug is for a 90's 4 cylinder GM application and it has the correct 3/4 in reach for most GMC V6 application:upyes:
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44 is actually the right heat range for a 64-65 305E, I think you'll be fine:thumbsup:
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