6066 (1960-1966) GMC Truck Club

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-   -   "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom (https://6066gmcclub.com/showthread.php?t=50706)

LordNatedawg September 20th, 2019 06:19 AM

"Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
5 Attachment(s)
19 years old, new to the forums, new to restoring classic vehicles. We'll see how this goes. Let's start with how I obtained this truck and what it all has.

While looking for a used pickup on Facebook Marketplace, I stumbled across an old 1966 GMC 1500 Custom; Fleetside Longbed. Ignoring the advice from my parents to buy "a useful truck", I decided to jump on the offer. I love my dads 74 GMC K2500, so this was my chance to get a truck like his.

The gentleman I bought this truck from had been using it as a work truck for several years (can't blame him...it's a GMC). It has a cargo rack, 8 lug wheels, painted bumper with ball hitch, 3 gas tanks (two in the bed, one in the cab), it has power assist brakes, it has A/C (John E. Mitchell underdash), ram-style power steering, NP435 manual transmission, bigger mirrors, Dana 60 rear diff, it's a 2WD, and the 351e V6 was swapped for a 350 V8. Basically, this truck was the "heavy duty" model of the 1500.

It was running and driving until I touched it. Engine sounds great. Couldn't get a feel for how it drives because I only drove it on and off a trailer.

The body is in decent shape. The rust isn't too bad. Two rust-holes in the front fender. The driver's side rear fender is in rough shape though. It looks to me like it was in an accident. The inner fender in the bed is dented inward, and the outer fender has a solid inch-thick layer of Bondo on it. Besides that, good condition. Only one piece of chrome is missing; one of the "Custom" badges is gone.

An oddity about the truck: the engine crossmember was swapped out at some point. To my knowledge, the 66 should use tubular control arms. Underneath my truck was the straight bolt-up arms. That and the fact that my upper control arm bracket wasn't even bolted to the frame leads me to believe that the crossmember was swapped at some point.

I bought this truck in May. It is now September at the time of writing this post. I've done some work to it...only some. Stay tuned for updates.

Ed Snyder September 20th, 2019 06:38 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LordNatedawg (Post 71458)
19 years old, new to the forums, new to restoring classic vehicles. We'll see how this goes. Let's start with how I obtained this truck and what it all has.

While looking for a used pickup on Facebook Marketplace, I stumbled across an old 1966 GMC 1500 Custom; Fleetside Longbed. Ignoring the advice from my parents to buy "a useful truck", I decided to jump on the offer. I love my dads 74 GMC K2500, so this was my chance to get a truck like his.

it has power assist brakes, it has A/C (John E. Mitchell underdash), ram-style power steering, NP435 manual transmission, bigger mirrors, Dana 60 rear diff, it's a 2WD, and the 351e V6 was swapped for a 350 V8.

Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on finding a very well optioned truck. Looks like it even has the rare "Buddy Bucket" seat option. Keep us posted on your progress. Hopefully someday you can even put a V6 back in it.

LordNatedawg September 20th, 2019 06:51 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
5 Attachment(s)
The first thing I did was clean the engine and address all the leaks.

The heater core was removed. I have to order a new core from LMC. The box was sanded and painted.

Valve cover gasket were changed, as well as the thermostat housing and gasket. A crack in the radiator was filled with lead.

Next, I bought a new steering gear and PS pump for a 1974 GMC C2500. To replace my drag link, I obtained a drag link from a 1979 GMC C3500 in the junkyard. If anyone is curious, 63-87 GMC/Chevy trucks have very similar drag links. They are somewhat interchangeable. Pitman arms are all the same to my knowledge, but the tie rods require some sort of conversion sleeve to work. Also, the idler arm will need to be relocated.

I completely gutted the power steering system. The pump was dead, the steering gear is extremely worn, the regulator on the drag link leaked, and the ram and all the hoses leaked. Instead of trying to rebuild this, I decided to do a power steering conversion. I bought the brackets and drilled the holes, but I haven't mounted the box yet because I ran into a problem. I tried to remove my steering shaft to cut and shorten it. In the removal process, all the bearings disintegrated. I'll buy a new tilt column later. Steering assembly is on the backburner until then.

In order to avoid the conversion sleeve/tierod problem, I decided to upgrade my front suspension....every...single...component.

I bought a "new" crossmember from AspenAutoAZ. I am currently in the process of cleaning it. It'll replace my current crossmember and allow me to use tubular control arms.

Next, I ordered 1979 GMC C2500 control arms (upper and lower), spindles, disc rotors and calipers, wheel bearings, etc. I plan on using my 66 shocks and coil springs. I have not installed any of these components yet. I believe that the brake hoses I have (1979 disc) should attach straight to the original brakes lines, but I have not had anyone confirm that yet. I still need to order a new master cylinder with a proportioning valve.

I'm debating replacing my brake lines with 1979 lines. But I think I'd have to replace my rear wheel cylinder with a similar year too. If anyone knows about brake line/hose compatibility, please let me know.

LordNatedawg September 20th, 2019 06:54 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Snyder (Post 71459)
Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on finding a very well optioned truck. Looks like it even has the rare "Buddy Bucket" seat option. Keep us posted on your progress. Hopefully someday you can even put a V6 back in it.

I hope to put the 351e back in. My only concern is hearing about how difficult it is to find parts for it.

And yes, my truck has the buddy bucket seats. Foam is destroyed, but the frames are still solid. I just need to fix the sliding mechanism on the passenger seat. The bolts look chewed up.

James September 21st, 2019 03:03 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LordNatedawg (Post 71460)

Next, I ordered 1979 GMC C2500 control arms (upper and lower), spindles, disc rotors and calipers, wheel bearings, etc. I plan on using my 66 shocks and coil springs. I have not installed any of these components yet. I believe that the brake hoses I have (1979 disc) should attach straight to the original brakes lines, but I have not had anyone confirm that yet. I still need to order a new master cylinder with a proportioning valve.

I'm debating replacing my brake lines with 1979 lines. But I think I'd have to replace my rear wheel cylinder with a similar year too. If anyone knows about brake line/hose compatibility, please let me know.

I would also replace the master cylinder (convert from a single cylinder to a dual cylinders) and all of the brake lines/hoses. With front disc brake and rear drum brake you will also need a proportioning valve. Master cylinder will need to match (disc-drum) as well.

POWERSTROKE September 21st, 2019 04:22 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Ha-Ha.... week or two before I left for college in August 1972, I repaired rust holes exactly where the holes are on your truck on Dad's '67 F250. Only took 5 years in the Rust Belt in the midwest to rust holes behind the frt wheels.
I agree with PAPA SMURF, more current vintage brake components you can use the better. I had several really rusty brake lines on my '96 F250 about 4 years ago. I had already replaced a rusted out power steering line and had replaced two rusted out fuel lines plus both braided stainless flex lines between the frame and engine. Replaced all the rubber hoses on top of the diesel engine in the "Valley of Death". Just replaced those hoses a second time last spring. Anyhow, I bought ALL brand new 304 stainless steel pre-bent brake lines from Classic Tube in Lancaster, New York. I hired a local one man shop with a lift to install them along with a new master cylinder, both frt calipers and both rear wheel cylinders. Anything touching brake fluid was new. Search on Classic Tube and they should come up 1st thing. Replacement vintage brake lines are their thing!
Good luck with your truck! You will like it even more with the Big V-6 in it!

Funky61 September 21st, 2019 06:26 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
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Looks to be the rare Sport truck option one year only. Congratulations.

LordNatedawg September 21st, 2019 08:06 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Funky61 (Post 71466)
Looks to be the rare Sport truck option one year only. Congratulations.

Wow...no pressure or anything. Lol. Hopefully the mods I'm doing are "acceptable" on such a rare truck.

I appreciate everyone's help. I've never touched brakes before on any vehicle. For obvious safety reasons, I'm trying to get everything figured out before I start.

LordNatedawg September 24th, 2019 01:24 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
2 Attachment(s)
"I'd get it one piece at a time,
And it wouldn't cost me a dime"

Finally finished cleaning the engine crossmember. Again, this is a 63-66 crossmember that I bought from AspenAutoAZ. It was in great condition when it came, but it was dirty. Now it's clean and getting a good coating of rust inhibitor.

Once the paint cures, I can start assembling my brakes and suspension. After that, I'll rip the old crossmember out and roll this one under with all the new parts.

Brake system will be getting worked on in the near future. Place an order today for a new brake booster, dual reservoir, and proportioning valve.

LordNatedawg October 13th, 2019 06:51 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
5 Attachment(s)
It has been a while, but I've made a slight bit of progress. Mostly gathering parts. Fairly certain I have everything I need for my crossmember swap and front suspension rebuild. I haven't assembled anything yet; I don't want to assemble my crossmember and end up having my new brake rotors rusting away. I don't have room in my garage to store the crossmember.

Some progress I have made: Got all new Grade 8 hardware for my crossmember. I could've reused my the original hardware. But $30 for all new seemed like a good idea to me. If anyone is curious, here are the bolts I needed. Most were obtained at ACE Hardware, unless otherwise noted. All are Grade 8:
6 1/2"-13 x 1-1/4" bolts
6 1/2"-13 nuts
6 1/2" lock washers and flat washers
8 7/16"-14 x 1-1/2" bolts with flat washers and lock washers (ordered from FMWFasteners)
4 7/16"-14 nuts (4 of the bolts screw into nuts welded into the crossmember and therefore do not need nuts)
4 9/16"-18 nut and lock washers and flat washers (FMWFasteners)
4 9/16" u-bolts for the control arms (mine came with nuts. I believe they are 9/16"-12)

I may have more washers than I need. I figured it was better to have them and not need them. Some areas may not need flat washers. The 1/2" bolts are vertical, bolting the crossmember to the frame. The 7/16" bolts are horizontal, bolting the upper control arm brackets to the frame. The 9/16" nuts will hold the upper control arms on. The varying lengths were just me doing some "testing". I originally had 7/16"x1" but they were too short for my liking. Stepped it up half an inch. They might be longer than needed, but they don't interfere with anything. I think 1-1/4" would probably be sufficient.

My CPP brake booster kit came, I bought some copper-nickel brake line as well as the necessary tools to bend and flare it. I will be running 1/4 inch line to the rear and 3/16 line to the front. That is what my proportioning valve requires. I'll figure out what my rear wheel cylinders require and step it down if needed. Also bought new coil springs and shock absorbers.

I did manage to get a new steering column. Right now it's only in for a test fit. All the bolts line up. I'm going to remove it, prime it, wire it properly, then install it again. Old column is....old. Bearings have worn a groove into the steering shaft, all the bearings have disintegrated, and the horn didn't work for some reason. The new column is an Ididit column. Little bit pricey, but fits well and doesn't hurt the truck aesthetically. I bought the paintable version so I can paint it to match the interior later on.

LordNatedawg October 26th, 2019 05:45 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
5 Attachment(s)
It's been almost two weeks. Time for a progress update? I surely think so!

First off, I tried to remove the old crossmember about a week ago. Got all the bolts out; most of them were not even torqued down. Kinda scary. After removing the bolts and brake lines, it was time to drop the crossmember. I jacked up the truck, put jack stands under the frame, removed the tires, then lowered the jack. The idea was that the crossmember would fall out now that the tires weren't holding it up. That didn't happen. Instead, my engine sagged. The previous owner got the motor mounts backwards. Instead of fixing his mistake, he made it permanent. He welded the motor mounts to the old crossmember. Took a week to cut and break those welds. Not a lot of room to work with, and I couldn't use a grinder or dremel near the passenger side mount. The fuel pump is in close proximity and mine has a slight leak from a cracked hose. (I still need to swap the motor mounts)

After getting the welds broken, the crossmember finally came out. Putting in the new one proved to be challenging by myself. Ended up calling my brother to help out. Once it was in, however, it was smooth sailing. All new control arms, all new wheel bearings, new slotted and drilled rotors, brand new spindles, new coil springs and shock absobers. This front suspension is 100% new. Only one issue is left to solve: My bottom bolts for my shock absorbers don't work with the new lower control arms. The nut doesn't sit deep enough in the recess for the bolt to feed through. And the bolt is a little too long. What I'll probably end up doing is grinding down the nut until it fits and getting a shorter bolt (or use a lock+flat washer).

Question: The driver's side shock stud was loose. From my research, I believe that is a common issue with these trucks. It will work itself loose or crack the frame. Is there a "fix" for that?

James October 26th, 2019 09:38 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LordNatedawg (Post 71597)
Question: The driver's side shock stud was loose. From my research, I believe that is a common issue with these trucks. It will work itself loose or crack the frame. Is there a "fix" for that?

If I'm not mistaken the original shocks came with the stud made on the shocks. When they were replaced the first time you had to installed the studs then the shocks. The problem is that when the studs get installed they did not properly tighten the nuts (due to lack of access to the nut). This resulting in elongating the mounting holes and or cracking the holes. :pullinghairout: Might had been the same person that installed the shocks also installed the engine mounts (welded)/crossmember (loose bolts). I also found the studs was loose on my 1979 pickup (the other company that we won't mention that has a similar body style) when I had the engine out, I made sure they were tight.

LordNatedawg October 28th, 2019 08:59 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by James (Post 71600)
If I'm not mistaken the original shocks came with the stud made on the shocks. When they were replaced the first time you had to installed the studs then the shocks. The problem is that when the studs get installed they did not properly tighten the nuts (due to lack of access to the nut).

You're correct on all of this. Did some more research. Original shocks did have the studs built into them. As for changing them....it is extremely difficult to reach the nut. I got the driver's side torqued to 70ish ft-lbs. Passenger side is less than 60 ft-lbs. Both need to be 140 ft-lbs. Very tight working space and I'm pushing the torque wrench above my head.

Not sure how I'm gonna get those torqued to spec.

James October 29th, 2019 01:54 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LordNatedawg (Post 71605)
You're correct on all of this. Did some more research. Original shocks did have the studs built into them. As for changing them....it is extremely difficult to reach the nut. I got the driver's side torqued to 70ish ft-lbs. Passenger side is less than 60 ft-lbs. Both need to be 140 ft-lbs. Very tight working space and I'm pushing the torque wrench above my head.

Not sure how I'm gonna get those torqued to spec.

What you need is to rent/borrow a torque multiplier. The one I have has a 4:1 ratio. I have use it alot on torquing the pinion nut on the rear axle. To buy one your putting out over $250.00.

Here is a video on how to use one (this is the type I have).


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The only thing I can add to the video is to be sure the torque multiplier is anchor to the frame to prevent it from moving, I use a chain to hold it.

WE7X October 29th, 2019 07:31 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
140 Ft. Lbs. torque seems like an awful lot for a shock absorber mounting bolt?? a that torque, it sounds like it would need to be at least a 9/16" or 5/8" bolt. Are they that big?
I think, from a somewhat suspicious memory, a 1/2" un-plated grade 8 bolt has a max spec of about 120 Ft. Lbs.
I have no specific reference for that bolt, but I would be sure that is the correct spec,, before torquing it to that level.
Most wheel studs are not more than 90-100 Ft. Lbs.
Rod Johnson
Issaquah, WA
1970 GMC RM-7500 401M

LordNatedawg October 29th, 2019 07:05 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by WE7X (Post 71608)
140 Ft. Lbs. torque seems like an awful lot for a shock absorber mounting bolt?? a that torque, it sounds like it would need to be at least a 9/16" or 5/8" bolt. Are they that big?
I think, from a somewhat suspicious memory, a 1/2" un-plated grade 8 bolt has a max spec of about 120 Ft. Lbs.
I have no specific reference for that bolt, but I would be sure that is the correct spec,, before torquing it to that level.
Most wheel studs are not more than 90-100 Ft. Lbs.
Rod Johnson
Issaquah, WA
1970 GMC RM-7500 401M

I would estimate the bolt to be at least 9/16". It is the stud that mounts to the frame. The nut that mounts the shock absorber to the stud is only torqued to 60ft-lbs (as well as the bolt that mounts the shock to the control arm).

I'll admit that these torque specs didn't come from my 60-66 factory manual. They came from my 1974 GMC service manual. The shock absorbers I ordered will fit my 66 1500 as well as 1974 2500s (according to Summit Racing), therefore it is safe to assume that the torque specs are the same. Again, this is the nut on the inside of the frame that is only for mounting the stud to the frame.

Quote:

Originally Posted by James (Post 71606)
What you need is to rent/borrow a torque multiplier. The one I have has a 4:1 ratio. I have use it alot on torquing the pinion nut on the rear axle. To buy one your putting out over $250.00.

I never even knew those existed, but I knew I wanted/needed one! Lol

Couldn't find anyplace online that seems to rent them. I'll start asking friends and neighbors. If I can't borrow one, $250 is not that much money for something like that. I know of a few future tasks that may require it.

James October 30th, 2019 01:30 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LordNatedawg (Post 71609)

I never even knew those existed, but I knew I wanted/needed one! Lol

Couldn't find anyplace online that seems to rent them. I'll start asking friends and neighbors. If I can't borrow one, $250 is not that much money for something like that. I know of a few future tasks that may require it.

Here one on amazon.com for $328.17.


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I had my Snap-On for over 25 years, man the price gone up dramatically. In my 64 GMC manual the torque for the upper nut is 130-150 ft-lbs.

LordNatedawg November 2nd, 2019 03:06 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
3 Attachment(s)
Got some good news and some bad news.

Good news first: I don't have to worry about the shock absorber stud. I went to my local auto shop (I know the owner) and asked if he knew where I could borrow a torque multiplier. He said that when I bring my truck in for an alignment, he would torque down everything that I tell him to. So that is covered. I'll save up for a multiplier though, because I still will need it in the future.

Bad news now: I started on my brakes. Got the old booster removed, and the new one doesn't line up with any of the holes. I swear, nothing can ever be "easy" on this truck. Lol.

I see a couple possible solutions to my problem.
1. I might be able to reuse the old brackets
2. I may be able to make my own brackets
3. I might be able to gut the new brake booster to repair the old one
4. I found a bracket on Ebay that may help....maybe.

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Hard to tell with just a picture of the bracket. Don't know if I want to gamble $40 to find out.

I'll probably go with option 2. I could copy the Ebay bracket, except I would be able to make sure it fits and I could do it for a lot cheaper.

When you want something done right, sometimes you have to do it yourself. I like the idea of adding something to this truck that I made myself. Even if it's something as simple as a bracket.

James November 2nd, 2019 01:51 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LordNatedawg (Post 71618)
Got some good news and some bad news.

Good news first: I don't have to worry about the shock absorber stud. I went to my local auto shop (I know the owner) and asked if he knew where I could borrow a torque multiplier. He said that when I bring my truck in for an alignment, he would torque down everything that I tell him to. So that is covered. I'll save up for a multiplier though, because I still will need it in the future.

Bad news now: I started on my brakes. Got the old booster removed, and the new one doesn't line up with any of the holes. I swear, nothing can ever be "easy" on this truck. Lol.

I see a couple possible solutions to my problem.
1. I might be able to reuse the old brackets
2. I may be able to make my own brackets
3. I might be able to gut the new brake booster to repair the old one
4. I found a bracket on Ebay that may help....maybe.

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Hard to tell with just a picture of the bracket. Don't know if I want to gamble $40 to find out.

I'll probably go with option 2. I could copy the Ebay bracket, except I would be able to make sure it fits and I could do it for a lot cheaper.

When you want something done right, sometimes you have to do it yourself. I like the idea of adding something to this truck that I made myself. Even if it's something as simple as a bracket.

When I converted from manual/drum brakes to disc/power brakes this is what I did:


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With our truck we sometime have to make some changes/mods to the auto part store parts to make it fit our truck. :pullinghairout:

snazzypig November 2nd, 2019 09:34 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
LordNatedawg, There is another forum called "The 1947-Present Chevrolet & Gmc Truck Message Board Network". A member there, Captainfab, fabricates all kinds of adapter brackets for master cylinders etc. He has a great reputation for making quality parts and is very reasonable. I would contact him first. He probably has what you need.

LordNatedawg November 9th, 2019 06:57 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
9 Attachment(s)
I tried to make my own bracket for the brake booster. Unfortunately I did not get very far. My dad's drill press decided not to work. The thing is probably older than I am. Figured I should take that as a sign. Lol. Ended up buying CaptainFab's brake booster bracket. Also bought his power steering adapter plate. His plate puts all 4 bolts of the gearbox through the frame. You don't have to drill out the threads on the gearbox. I already drilled holes in my frame for the CPP brackets, and I'll have to drill some more for Cap's bracket. I'll probably end up welding the bracket to the frame for some added support.

Cap's brackets arrived around 8pm PST. They shipped very quickly and look to be high quality. Too late to test fit them though, so that'll be another post.

In addition to brackets, I finally got my steering column semi-permanently installed! I painted it the other day with a rust inhibitor; the only available color for that stuff is black. Eventually it'll get painted Fawn or whatever GMC's interior color is. For the wiring, I ditched the Ididit connector and added in about 1ft of wire to extend the wiring from the column so it would reach my dash connector. Then I used individual spades to connect to the original connector. Not exactly "professional", but it works.

I used 18 gauge wire to extend the column wiring. I initially tried to solder, but for some reason it would not flow through my wire, it kept beading on the top. Switched over to spade connectors. One thing to note is that I did not have any light blue wire. I substituted orange instead. If I ever get ahold of some light blue wire, I'll replace it. But for now it will be fine. Also, I did not use the brown wire on the Ididit column. The brown wire is for emergency flashers, and mine are wired to a button on the dash. I simply attached a spade and left it alone.

I've attached the Ididit diagram and the wiring diagram I used. You'll notice I edited it to include the Ididit column. Again, brown didn't get used and orange was substituted for light blue. To my knowledge, the gray wire on the truck connector is an indicator light for automatic transmissions; it does not connect to anything on my truck. In the diagram I used a light gray color from the Ididit connector to the clear wire on the dash. The light gray is supposed to be white, but a white line is kinda hard to see on white paper.

LordNatedawg November 9th, 2019 07:46 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
1 Attachment(s)
Just a quick update. Being as restless as I am, I decided to finish assembling my steering column inside the cab. Got my horn button wired up and got the steering wheel on. I'm reusing the 3-bolt steering wheel that was on the truck when I bought it. I believe it's a Grant steering wheel.

P.S. Not sure why one of the images in my previous post is upside down. It's not like that in my phone's camera roll.

LordNatedawg November 12th, 2019 04:26 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
3 Attachment(s)
Small update, but a big milestone:

My brake booster is mounted and adjusted. New stop light switch installed and adjusted. Steering column is now torqued down inside the cab and the parking brake has been reinstalled.

CaptainFab's bracket worked perfectly for the CPP booster. The only issue was that the pushrod on the booster was a bit too long. Cap's bracket is a bit shorter than the CPP brackets. Luckily, this issue was easily resolved with a hacksaw. I took off a 9mm casing worth of thread from the pushrod and it ended up being the perfect length after that. No more adjustment left in the rod, and about 1/4inch of slack in the brake pedal before it engages the master cylinder. About 1/8inch of travel before my brake lights turn on.

Next challenge to tackle: brake lines. Hopefully I can start those soon.

LordNatedawg November 23rd, 2019 04:21 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
1 Attachment(s)
"Hopefully I can start [bending brake lines] soon"

HA. Who was I kidding? Between work, school, and Army, it is hard to find time. Especially with finals coming up. Although I didn't make a whole lot of progress, I managed to at least get started on brake lines today.

I mounted both calipers because I figured it would be easier to attach the brake lines if I could attach them to the brake hoses. Unfortunately I need a nut for my brake hoses.

Other than that, all I managed to do was get a rough shape of the front left brake line. I used some bailing wire to figure out a path and how much line I would need. It got dark and cold before I could actually bend the line. I will try again another day. It's supposed to snow next week, so I may have to suck it up and deal with the cold if I expect to get this thing driveable before next year.

LordNatedawg November 27th, 2019 11:33 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
5 Attachment(s)
Weather report: 28*F, partly cloudy with a 10mph wind. Result: fingers are frozen and I'm passive-aggressively telling my parents how great it would be to have a garage to work in.

Despite the weather, I successfully managed to get one brake line bent and installed. Even found a nut for my brake hose (until I can order new jam nuts). Took maybe 45 minutes from start to finish. The copper-nickel line bends smooth as butter. I didn't even use my bending tool, this was all done by hand. Very happy with how it turned out. Not rubbing on anything, not too close to the exhaust pipe, and enough slack that it won't put any pressure on the fittings.

Most of the scrap came from practicing my flaring. And a good chunk was a result of me overestimating how much I would need. Better to have it 6" too long than 6" too short.

How did I get those near perfect loops? I used my favorite tool in the garage: the rattle can. Lol. Feels good to make some progress again.

One down....three to go.

LordNatedawg January 22nd, 2020 09:28 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
4 Attachment(s)
Two months later and I am back with a quick progress update. Been too cold to work on Papa Smurf. But today the weather was finally warm enough for me to do things with my finger tips.

First: things are rusting and it is making me sad. The calipers, master cylinder, and steering shaft are all turning orange. It isn't going to hurt anything, it just looks ugly. I'll fix it later.

The front brake lines are complete. The second set doesn't look very pretty, but I don't care as long as it functions. This line was a little more difficult just because it was longer than the previous one. Had to flare the end while sitting under the wheel-well.

I do need to figure out how to secure the lines so they don't rattle while I'm driving. I could copy the system that was originally used. But I figure I should ask if any of you have other ideas. It's not a pressing concern right now, but it's something I need to think about.

I am currently soaking the rear lines and hose in PB Blaster. After removing it, the goal is to have the hose remade with braided steel so I can start bending the rear lines. I also need to shorten the front brake hoses, but that will be something I do later.

It's all coming together. Slowly but surely.

WDShaffer January 29th, 2020 03:28 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
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Use insulated tubing clams, available almost any parts store.

LordNatedawg January 30th, 2020 08:18 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
6 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by WDShaffer (Post 72018)
Use insulated tubing clams, available almost any parts store.

Noted. There is definitely more slack in my brake lines than there needs to be. That was done on purpose so I could route them differently if needed for securing.

I also want to update with some small progress. Very small, but progress still. I got some custom brake hoses made. 14" for the front, and I had the old rear one copied exactly. Braided steel lines that fit perfectly. The hoses are not pulled tight when the wheel is turned lock to lock.

More exciting news....today I picked up a 351E V6! It was running and driving before it was pulled. Words cannot describe my excitement. The rare motor that I needed just happened to turn up in my local area. One in a million.

It has the 2bbl carburetor conversion as well as the screw on oil filter. New clutch was put in. The engine was attached to a SM transmission, so I don't know if the bell housing will work with my NP435. Maybe I'll get lucky and the one on my 350 will work. Other than that, I'm not sure what to do. I wasn't expecting to find this motor so soon. I always thought it would take a few years before one turned up.

I guess the first thing to do is to get it on an engine stand so I can do a thorough inspection.

I want to get Papa Smurf running and driving on the 350 first, but I feel like it would be easier to do the work on it with the engine out (now that I have an excuse to pull it). I still need to tidy up the front brake lines, make rear lines, and finish the power steering conversion. Lots to think about...

POWERSTROKE February 3rd, 2020 11:38 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Congrats on finding the 351. There's no replacement for displacement. I wore out TWO Ford 300-6's, no matter what you did they were always s-l-o-w. And when you pushed them hard to run 65-70 they really burned A LOT of gas, like the '87 with factory EFI would drop to 11-12 mpg. Son's '93 Lightning would run 65-70 and get 14 mpg, lack of 4wd didn't effect mpg that much.
I did a complete brake system rebuild 5 yrs ago on my '96 F-250. I bought a complete stainless steel brake like kit from Classic Industries in New York State. My shop replaced everything in 6 hours, and everything included a new master cylinder, both frt brake calipers, and both rear wheel cylinders. So everything must have fit fine. My ONLY regret was my choice of flexible brake lines. My owner of my local NAPA store said his flex hoses were made in USA. They came a day late from the warehouse. The boxes AND hoses all said "Made in China" in big letters. I should have refused them. They haven't caused a problem but EVERYTHING else I've bought there has. Luckily all my other parts came from the same O-Reily's my mechanic uses.
Anyhow, nice to know the brakes will work if and when you really need them.

jmfurgason February 18th, 2020 04:39 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Any suggestions for lowering 1/2 ton LWB 1963 GMC front and back ?? what is part # for oil pan gasket 305E Felpro ?? Thanks for ideas JMF

Funky61 February 18th, 2020 06:11 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 


To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic?


LordNatedawg April 1st, 2020 08:06 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
6 Attachment(s)
Time for a truck/life update and a question.

To sum it up, February and March sucked. I haven't been able to do much due to personal injury. About a week after my last post I was rear-ended and my car was totaled. The injuries to my neck and back prevented me from doing anything on my truck. I'm still not 100%, but I have now been medically cleared to continue life like normal.

So nothing got done on my truck due to my inability to twist and contort beneath it. But I did manage to get my 351E into the garage last week (with plenty of help). The problem I was having was that my dad's 1974 GMC is lifted, so my hoist didn't have enough height to pick up the engine in the bed of his truck. Solved this issue by putting the hoist on a trailer first.

Question:
I'm trying to remove the clutch assembly from the engine in order to get the bellhousing off so I can put the engine in a cradle. But for some reason I can't get a socket/wrench on two of the bolts. It seems like the pressure plate shifted. Again, it is only restricting two of the bolts. I'm inexperienced with clutches; I've only ever removed one. Is this issue solved by realigning the pressure plate? How would I do so? I don't want to pry on things and break something. This clutch is brand new, according to the PO (fresh grease on the throwout bearing, too).

I hope you are all doing well in these crazy times. Stay safe.

James April 1st, 2020 10:46 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LordNatedawg (Post 72307)
Time for a truck/life update and a question.

Question:
I'm trying to remove the clutch assembly from the engine in order to get the bellhousing off so I can put the engine in a cradle. But for some reason I can't get a socket/wrench on two of the bolts. It seems like the pressure plate shifted. Again, it is only restricting two of the bolts. I'm inexperienced with clutches; I've only ever removed one. Is this issue solved by realigning the pressure plate? How would I do so? I don't want to pry on things and break something. This clutch is brand new, according to the PO (fresh grease on the throwout bearing, too).

You will need to rotate the engine to access the other bolts. The clutch assembly is heavy, be careful. Having an extra pair of hand will help.

LordNatedawg April 2nd, 2020 06:38 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by James (Post 72308)
You will need to rotate the engine to access the other bolts. The clutch assembly is heavy, be careful. Having an extra pair of hand will help.

The problem isn't with that. I was able to get the other 4(?) bolts broken loose by turning the engine (and the engine turns very smoothly, which is exciting). The issue is that two of the bolts have some sort of obstruction near the head.

tbucketnut April 2nd, 2020 02:00 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Throw a box end wrench on the head of the bolt, hopefully it is not rounded. Then take another combination wrench and hook the first one to make a lever arm. If it doesnt come off you will have to cut the pressure plate off the flywheel then remove the bolt.
Hope you feel better recovering.
Steve

James April 2nd, 2020 09:59 PM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LordNatedawg (Post 72313)
The problem isn't with that. I was able to get the other 4(?) bolts broken loose by turning the engine (and the engine turns very smoothly, which is exciting). The issue is that two of the bolts have some sort of obstruction near the head.

Someone had operated the clutch without the transmission in place and the clutch disc had drop down. Somehow you need to operate the clutch to allow the clutch disc to move away from the bolt

LordNatedawg April 3rd, 2020 12:46 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by tbucketnut (Post 72314)
Throw a box end wrench on the head of the bolt, hopefully it is not rounded. Then take another combination wrench and hook the first one to make a lever arm. If it doesnt come off you will have to cut the pressure plate off the flywheel then remove the bolt.
Hope you feel better recovering.
Steve

Unfortunately the wrench trick didn't work. I can't get a box wrench on the head. I'd hate to cut if off and possibly ruin the pressure plate, but that option keeps creeping forward. Guess if it comes to that I should confirm: this engine with the NP435 will work with a 11" or a 12" clutch?

Cfriis April 3rd, 2020 01:06 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
A trick I’ve done in the past when having A rounded Bolt or inaccessible is tack weld another bolt to it Allowing a small extension

LordNatedawg April 3rd, 2020 01:48 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
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Tack weld. That seems like a good option. I'll have to give that a shot. Although I have yet to learn how to MIG weld. I've done Oxy-Acet welding, but not MIG. I'll contract this job out to my younger brother and let you all know how it goes. Lol. He was taking a welding class in high school and he's been dying to weld something for me.

In other news: I finally did the power steering conversion. The job that started this whole mess. Two hours of work that took almost a year to do. I initially drilled 2 holes using the CPP kit. This put 3 bolts for the steering box through the frame and one is left beneath the frame. Later I found CaptainFab's bracket that puts all 4 bolts through the frame. Bought that and installed it today. Hardest part was drilling the hole that overlapped an existing hole. Ended up using a file to elongate the existing hole.

Everything bolted up easily after that. Torqued the bolts to 70 lb/ft after adding a bit of threadlocker. Then I installed my hoses, my steering column U-joint, and my rag joint flange. My back started hurting at this point so I called it a day. All that is left to do is to cut my collapsible steering shaft to fit. After that I can install tierods, drill holes for relocating the idler arm, and install my power steering pump pulley.

I still need to order 2 nuts for my steering system. The pitman arm nut (7/8-14) and my pump pulley nut (9/16-18).

Things are finally coming together and it's exciting. Once steering is done, I can get my truck out of the dirt and into the driveway. From there I can finish the brakes.

LordNatedawg April 13th, 2020 09:09 AM

Re: "Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom
 
8 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by James (Post 72317)
Someone had operated the clutch without the transmission in place and the clutch disc had drop down. Somehow you need to operate the clutch to allow the clutch disc to move away from the bolt

Didn't see your post until now. I'll add that to my list of things to try next; priority 1. You're probably right. I have no idea how I'm going to activate it again, but I'll figure something out.

Another update on Papa Smurf. I finalized and secured my front brake lines. I secured one end of the line to my fuel line, then drilled a hole in my fender and secured both brake lines to that. I also rebent the second brake line to route it differently and tidy it up.

I also installed my steering shaft. Managed to get my drill press working, which made the job super easy. Last time the drill press didn't work was because it was plugged into an extension cord, and the extension was not plugged into power. Go figure. Once that was set, I measured the required length, cut it to fit, drilled necessary holes to secure it, and got it installed. I got the steering wheel pretty close to center, relative to the steering gear. I think it's off by a few teeth, but I'm happy with it. I can always pull the universal joint off the steering column to adjust it, or just deal with the fact that I'm losing a small amount of steering to my right.

Steering isn't done yet. I thought I had the correct socket for the pitman arm nut, but I don't. Waiting for one in the mail. I need to torque the pitman arm before I can install the steering linkage.

Lastly, I finally installed a new heater resistor and heater core (just in time for summer!). The resistor is located on the backside of the passenger side duct. Disconnect it from the firewall (3 screws), then disconnect it from the other duct (2 screws). The duct should wiggle out and give easy access to the resistor. One of the thumbnails is upside down, but if you click it the image will orient itself properly.

Small rant: The LMC heater core was less than ideal. The heater core was subtly different from the OEM one, but it was just enough of a difference that I had to make small modifications to my heater core box. The hangers for the core did not fit properly on the new core, so i had to drill a new hole in both hangers in order to get them to work. Not a huge issue, just annoying.


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