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-   -   1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy) (https://6066gmcclub.com/showthread.php?t=47321)

FetchMeAPepsi June 17th, 2013 01:28 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Then I started removing the bolts. I started with the lower bolts first because I didn't want to be removing lower bolts when the radiator was wanting to fall on me. This is the driver's side.



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Here's the last bolt. Be careful when it's close to the end! It'll pinch on ya as the radiator tries to fall a bit.



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Then do the other side, again starting with the bottom bolts. This side is tougher to get to (or get a pic of!)



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Then I disconnected my overflow hose.



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Once those three are out you can raise up on the radiator a bit. The side brackets will fall off to the side. Don't panic! That's by design.
Edited: This is not by design. The side brackets are supposed to be soldered to the radiator but apparently mine broke loose sometime in the last 50 years. I didn't find out that they were supposed to be stuck together until a reply to this thread pointed it out. Thanks David!



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When my radiator came out I realized it had a drain plug on it. Well, I did it the fast way so I guess it didn't matter!



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I threw the bolts I just removed in the carb dip for a cleaning. I should have been doing this with alot of stuff I've worked on but... Well hindsight is 20/20 and all that.



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Once your radiator is out you can hire a little Powder Puff Mechanic from your local sprinkler yard to slosh over and run a wire brush over the offending area. She got through the black, through the green copper-rust and down to the shiny copper. She said, "Ooo Daddy this is sooooo pretty!" Then she thought a second and started scrubbing again. "I'm going to find out what's under the copper!"
Oh no you don't! :lol:



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Here I grabbed a couple of rubber bands and then I needed some plastic to plug up the radiator hose connections. I couldn't find any plastic lying around but I did find an empty Ritz Cracker wrapper and an old bag of Subway chips.



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Hmm, they work!



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FetchMeAPepsi June 17th, 2013 01:35 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Then I filled the tank with water from the hose with the help of my Powder Puff again.



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I flipped the radiator over and there was my leak. Right at the bullet hole looking things but on the outside. Looks like it just came loose at the seam!
Lucky me!



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Drain the tank and put it somewhere to dry. It was about to rain on us so we put it on the porch until tomorrow.



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When I walked in, sweating like a pig at election (some of you will know that saying lol) my youngest was not happy with not getting to see her daddy all day. Maybe we'll have a new powder puff mechanic soon!



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FetchMeAPepsi July 1st, 2013 03:54 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
I have a confession to make. I get discouraged when I can't drive Cecilia.



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Like, depressed sad overwhelmed style discouraged. :nervous:This is my first time working on an automobile so maybe that's normal. A wise man once told me "when you're feeling down don't start a project you can't finish in a weekend. Keep her drivable."

I started the radiator on the 16th, and it's the 30th. Today I finally put her back together and had to postpone dinner so I could get in and DRIVE my baby for a bit. It felt so good to spin her tires again.



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It's not like this every time. When I first got her it took a while to get her running well enough to drive. Maybe it's just a phase I'm going through or this great weather making me feel the need to cruise. Anyway, it wears on me..... and "that's about all I have to saaayy about thayyaattt"



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So here's how the radiator went from that point on...

FetchMeAPepsi July 1st, 2013 05:08 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
I yanked my bolts out of the dip 24 hours after putting them in. They were not as nice as I expected.
:pullinghairout:



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As luck would have it as I was pulling out my bolts the Fedex guy drove up and delivered my new wire wheel for my drill.



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So I threw 'em in a vice and got to work polishing the rust off.



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They looked ok, but I thought why not go ahead and paint 'em? So I did.
I put them in a block of wood I had with holes already in it. They fit.

Primer:



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When they dried I hit them with this stuff. It's high heat black paint so the engine heat will be no problem.



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While they dried I went back to my radiator. Check out these suckers.



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So I grabbed this flux and 50/50 silver solder


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I put a bucket of water under my work area to catch any solder that fell, then I set to work applying flux.



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I turned on my torch to low (it blows harder when it's upside down so you gotta make sure it's low). Then I strung out my solder.



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Then I just got after it. You really have to make sure not to heat it too much though. And if were doing it again I would put wet rags on either side of my work area to keep from messing up the factory solder and making more holes.
I chased holes for two weeks.



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Once you think you're done you can put water in it and lean it over. Your solder only needs to hold about 7 lbs of pressure so there's not a lot of pressure there. If you did a good job it won't leak.



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Don't forget to put the cap on or you'll end up with wet shoes.



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I kept having weeping through the side in mine and almost never found it. Two weeks later it looked like this because there is a very small crack on the tank above the seam here that I almost never found. I soldered my butt off on that stupid thing.



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In between soldering sessions I thought, what about that radiator mount? It's awful ugly. So I took it outside and sprayed it down with oven cleaner, which is supposed to clean it down to bare metal.
It didn't.



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While I thought on that a bit I decided to pull that rebuilt alternator back out and polish it up. I should have done this to begin with.



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Oooo Purty stuff!



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I thought the alternator arm looked ugly too. Sanded and primed along with the mounting bolts.



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I forgot to mention that it is very important that you keep your sugar level up while working on your truck. These are awesome.



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FetchMeAPepsi July 1st, 2013 05:43 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Hand sanding the radiator bracket was slow and made my spaghetti arms tired. I saw little progress in the deep rust.
So I got out my orbital sander and put 80 grit on it. It didn't do much better.



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So I got out the Speed Blaster gun. You can get it from Amazon for about 45 bucks. It works off of any compressor. I filled it with Black Beauty sanding media.



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Then I stapled an old painting sheet to the fence outside. I should have used two or three sheets, but I didn't. This pic is upside down for some reason.



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I put on a dust mask and eye protection. After the first 3 minutes I found a pair of gloves too. That sand HURTS!
Then I blasted like a madman. It's like running a crayola or an eraser. It just makes the rust disappear in a quarter sized circle. The sheet was great because all the used media was right there at my feet to re-load in the sandblaster and shoot again.




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The only problem is it turned me from a redneck to a black-neck. This stuff was everywhere when I was done.



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After blasting I primed and painted with the same high heat paint.
Then three coats of clear.



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While it dried I mounted my alternator and found a problem with my painting process on the bolts. Hmph!



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Then I put my radiator mount in. I had to take it back out though because it doesn't mount well like this. It's easier to put the radiator into the mount, then set the entire set into the truck slowly.



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I don't have pics of me putting the whole radiator in because I had my hands full of radiator. My PP mechanic was inside making brownies for me so I can't blame her either. They was sum good brownies too. If you guys were closer I'd let you try them.


After settling the radiator in and letting it sit on the lower hose I wiggled it around to get the first bolt in on the driver's side at the top. Not snug, but just started on the threads. Some finagling is left to do to get the other bolts in.



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Then on the other side I raised it up and put that bolt in snugly.



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Then I pulled the radiator hose from under it at the bottom and I put the remaining bolts in, only tightening them after all six were fitting nicely in their threads.



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Then I hooked up the lower hose and tightened it down.



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Next was the top hose.



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Finally the little overflow hose and fill her up with just tapwater while we test it at operating temperature.



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After that I started her up and let her run for a few minutes to see if she leaked. After she got warm I took her for a spin for about 20 minutes to make sure. After verifying that my repair job held I cleaned up all my mess and went in for a shower. Let me tell you it felt sooooo good to get to drive her again.

Now I gotta pull the radiator out again to paint it too. And put antifreeze in her. Can't let it run around without antifreeze if I want to keep driving her.:whipit:

FetchMeAPepsi July 7th, 2013 04:03 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
A few guys asked me recently how long I've been turning wrenches. I said "What? Have you seen my thread?"

To me its obvious that I have no idea what I'm doing by the disjointed way I go about my build here. My philosophy is to find whats leaking or squeaking then see how I can make it stop in the cheapest, yet most effective way possible. In the process I end up chasing rabbits and fixing or destroying other stuff. As for experience well I changed my oil about three times in high school in my 1983 chevy truck. More because my dad sat out there and made me do it than because I had any interest in using my hands.

I guess what Im saying is I'm just a monkey with a wrench and a truck. The only way i keep from blowing things up is with alot of reading. I pick a project then I read all I can find about it online. Then I go try it myself, usually mess up the first time, then I have a little luck and it works out right. :lolflag:
Like CoyoteRun says, Ill fix it myself and pay the extra $500 haha!

Take this weekend for example. It's a great view to my thinking as I go through a project. I got to feeling my oats and pulled Cecilia into the garage. Its 96 degrees here so keeping her in the shade really renewed my wrench-turning itch. I looked at her standing there with her tall 4wd self and I thought Whats next?

I put cardboard under her because I knew she had a few leaks and I wanted to better pinpoint them and I didnt want her marking her territory on my garage floor. By the way I mentioned a rolly chair/creeper earlier. You can see the kids playing on it in a previous post. I got it because I had hip surgery and it helped me slide around to different locations without getting on the ground. I put it into creeper mode and man is it ever a back and hip saver. If you have any kind of back or leg problem I recommend it.

Anyway I got myself down on the creeper and WHOOSH! I was zipping along underneath her like a baby on a slip and slide. Engine, transfer case, rear end, I was everywhere. I placed my cardboard bits down and left it for a couple of days to check the drips. It looks like the rear end is leaking the most for me so I did my usual "step back and look at it" routine. What should I do first?



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First I find out what I'm looking at. I'm pretty sure I'll need seals and oil. That goes without saying. But rear ends on trucks are like rear ends on people. They're not all the same. I take a putty knife and scrape all around the rear end to find some number or something.

David R Leifheit July 7th, 2013 06:40 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
In regards to your radiator, where you said:

"Once those three are out you can raise up on the radiator a bit. The side brackets will fall off to the side. Don't panic! That's by design."

I'd say... not on any radiator I've removed. That assembly is soldered/welded to the radiator.

On my '63-'66 trucks there are two brackets at the bottom and one at the top that hold it in, with no side brackets at all. But for 60-62, those side brackets are soldered/welded to the radiator. :)
loose early radiator:


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1962:


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David R Leifheit July 7th, 2013 06:46 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi (Post 49249)
A few guys asked me recently how long I've been turning wrenches. I said "What? Have you seen my thread?"
...
As for experience well I changed my oil about three times in high school in my 1983 chevy truck. More because my dad sat out there and made me do it than because I had any interest in using my hands.

Sounds like you got your training similar to mine.
My dad *made* me help him, then take over doing, the routine maintenance on vehicles, mostly because his dad didn't. I hated every minute of it. And now I have more tools than any sane person needs, and am only short actual machining equipment when it comes to being able to rebuild a vehicle.

The only formal training I had was my folks' made me take a small engine repair class in high school, we rebuilt a lawnmower engine. Woo Hoo.

But you know, a lawnmower (Briggs & Stratton) really is no different than any other motor, just fewer pistons.

I went to college to learn how to do "white collar" jobs so I would never need to get my hands dirty. I haven't really had a white collar job -yet- and I graduated High School almost 35 years ago. Seems I was destined to get my hands dirty (and cut/scraped, back broke, head banged, etc. etc.)

FetchMeAPepsi July 9th, 2013 12:23 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by David R Leifheit (Post 49251)
I'd say... not on any radiator I've removed. That assembly is soldered/welded to the radiator.

I had no idea! I PMd Jeannie to see if she would put that in my post for me. I can't edit it anymore.

Quote:

Originally Posted by David R Leifheit (Post 49252)
Sounds like you got your training similar to mine.
My dad *made* me help him, then take over doing, the routine maintenance on vehicles, mostly because his dad didn't. I hated every minute of it. And now I have more tools than any sane person needs, and am only short actual machining equipment when it comes to being able to rebuild a vehicle.

The only formal training I had was my folks' made me take a small engine repair class in high school, we rebuilt a lawnmower engine. Woo Hoo.

But you know, a lawnmower (Briggs & Stratton) really is no different than any other motor, just fewer pistons.

I went to college to learn how to do "white collar" jobs so I would never need to get my hands dirty. I haven't really had a white collar job -yet- and I graduated High School almost 35 years ago. Seems I was destined to get my hands dirty (and cut/scraped, back broke, head banged, etc. etc.)

:lolflag: Dads are great aren't they? I hope my son complains about me when he hits 30 for the same reason.
Take that posterity! :whipit:

FetchMeAPepsi July 9th, 2013 01:16 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 


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I never found any numbers, but if you look at my springs you can see that they're held on with a U-bolt. That's telling right there. I can tell from the shape of the rear end cover that it's either a Dana 44 or a Dana 60. Thats all that was offered on K1000 in 1962. So without finding any numbers and seeing that the U-bolts were used I can assume it's a Dana 44, the most common rear end in GM trucks.

How do I know that? I searched and read about other people that had similar trucks and didn't know what rear end they had. I could still be wrong. It could be the much sought after Dana 60, but I doubt it. This was a farm truck.

This was going to be some insight into the monkey with wrenches mindset so try to follow this next part...It's jumpy.
  • Seeing that I identified my rear I thought hmm thats way down there. I might not be able to lie down that long enough to do it right all at once.
  • Then I thought those springs are rusty.
  • Then I thought what's that in the bed of my truck? Oh yeah, the old floor mat that broke. I should toss that.
  • Then I thought look at that plywood in the bed. A 4x8 sheet fits perfectly huh?
  • Then I thought well that looks like crap. I wonder what the bed wood looks like under?
  • And that's when I thought to myself it would be alot easier to remove the bed to get to the rear end and I could paint the undersides while I was at it.

So that's what led me from I wonder what's leaking most? to "Hey lets remove the bed!"
See? Jumpy.

I called the kiddos over and asked if they wanted to do any vacuuming in the bed. Surprisingly they both jumped at the chance.



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They picked all the little screws and acorns off of it then I ran around pulling out the decking screws. Then we lifted it up.



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Not as bad as I would have thought really. It only has three holes in it. I would have probably still used it like it is. The kids then started vacuuming the old wood. The boy got the first half. Dig the shark shoes eatin up the dirt. Nom nom nom!



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Then the powder puff got the second half.



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Nearest I can tell there's only four bolts holding the bed to the frame. Here's two pictured.



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The thought process started up again at this point.
  • Cant remove the bed without removing the bumper which i wanted to paint anyway.
  • And cant remove the bumper without removing the lights.
  • Hey those lights look awful and rusty. I should paint 'em!

And thats how I went from Lets fix a leak to Lets paint some taillights. Get it? Me either.

I checked out the way the tail lights were mounted. They have a plastic sheath on them up through the bumper.



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I pulled out a 7/16 wrench and got to wrenching on the nuts.



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Once both of them were off I snipped the wires going to the light. I later found out this wasn't necessary. Don't snip your wires if you don't have to.



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I put the light can down and removed the two screws on the face of it to look inside at the eww inside. Nice rust collection on the outside here. It had rust on the inside too.



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To remove the bulb you give it a light push on the bulb and twist the bulb to the left (righty tighty lefty loosey) then pull it out. See the little nubs on the side of the bulb's shiny gold part? Those are different heights on each side. That means that you can't put it in backwards. Each nub has to go in a specific slot when you put it back in. And be careful of the bulb itself. It is glass after all.

Hopefully you got yours removed. :)



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Then push the wires through the hole the same way the bulb just went.



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Then tape up the plastic white reflector on the bottom if you can't get it out.



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You might tape up the inside of it too to protect it from overspray. I didn't and hit it with a little bit. Actually I painted my dang Iphone too if you can believe that. I sat it down to move some things for pictures, sprayed the things, and saw a nice little PSSSHHHHTTT line across the phone's glass.
Nice.


I sanded that can out and painted it black with bedliner paint. It's supposed to be tough enough to take a punch and not fall apart like regular paint. I'm planning on using it on anything black that will see dirt and rocks.

Then I went back and labeled that wire I cut off at the truck.



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FetchMeAPepsi July 9th, 2013 04:00 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
The second lights were connected with a different plug than the first one. It looked like a simple socket so I pulled and worked it back and forth until it popped out. Then I wondered if I broke it. I might end up re-wiring this light.



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I looked at the wire track now, wondering how I'd get this fat plug through the hole in the bed side.



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I followed them to here. It seems there's a junction block of sorts, at least on my truck, under the rail near the bumper.



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The top light plugged in here, the bottom next to it here.



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Before pulling it through I checked the routing. It wasn't exactly elegant. I went ahead and pulled it through and set it aside.



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Back on the bottom light plug I pushed it through a little to see what was in the socket-like cover. It didn't look broken.



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The light it plugged into was made differently inside, just slightly. I was able to remove a leveraged piece of wire to get the white part of the light removed entirely.



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All of the cans got the rubdown with a scotchbrite style paint removal pad. I seem to have lost my wire wheel somewhere. The Raid can is because a couple flies kept dive bombing me. This flying insect killer puts them down NOW. It's good stuff. Oh, and I'm getting fat. Hmm.



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Painted can with nuts etc. I didn't paint the threads lol.



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Oddly the only wire connected to the bottom light was this one. The other side just wrapped around the frame, unused. :confused:




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I forgot to mention I slapped a label on each light so I knew where they went afterward.



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The passenger side routing is at least clipped in two places.



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Top passenger side light plugged here.



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The other wire was just wrapped around a support and hanging loose.



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The bottom pass side plugged here and here.




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Even the clips get polished and painted. They'll see dirt so they get bedliner.



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The workspace.



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A shot of the paint. Next I remove the bumper.



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FetchMeAPepsi July 14th, 2013 06:13 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Waaaaalllll (well), I don't really remove the bumper. I put one light back on the rear so I can get to Lowes and pick up some 4x4's to put the bed on. Then I got back, removed my one light, and set about removing the bumper.

First step, observation. And that's as far as I got.

The dang thing seems to be welded to the frame! :noway:



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I wish I had a sonic screwdriver.



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That idea scrapped, I went ahead and pulled off the pigtail connections to the little junction box and set it aside with the rear lights I already removed.



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Then it was off with the steps. On the steps for the stepside there are 7 bolt points. Five that are a standard bolt/nut holding it to the bed and two that bolt to through the step portion to a support bracket. The two that go through the steps are round topped bolts that you'll need to lock some vise grip style pliers on if you want to get them off.

I started with the two round top bolts because they were out and easy to get to. Take your vise grips and lock them onto the bolt heads on the step bottoms. Then take a socket and put it on the nuts underneath the step. Then get to twisting.



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On these step bolts it goes bolt, step, washer, lockwasher, and nut. On the bedside bolts it goes bolt, washer, bed and step, lockwasher, and nut. The step bolts came off without incident after I buggared the smooth heads up enough to get them locked on.

Then came the bolts that go to the bed. They're here and here, 5 total. A middle bolt is shown in both pics because I couldn't get my camera positioned to take a bigger shot. .



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Once you get those suckers off it just pulls away.



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I put the bolts back in so I would remember the washer positions. Also to keep them from walking off. Loose nuts and bolts have been scientifically proven to morph into living creatures when left alone. Then they crawl off and hide in your other vehicles, making rattles you'll never find.



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With the steps off you're left with these large jutting brackets.



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And this pokey kick-stand that bolts to the fenders. I tried taking this off but it wouldn't turn a full twist with the bed in place. And I've heard it's hard to buy them so I'm taking it easy on this baby. She's staying put for now.



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To remove the ugly bracket though you'll need a 1/2 inch socket. And I highly recommend some PB Blaster because the nuts are welded on. I didn't use any and had two twist off inside the nuts. BAD!!! :ahhhh:



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Really you might need your 7/16 and vise grips again first. I had to remove a bolt that went through the bed wood before removing the bracket because the nut and part of the bolt crowded the top bolt and I couldn't fit the socket onto it. Here's a pic of it waayyyy up there.



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And a shot of the top view where you'll have to lock the vise grips on.



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The in-the-way bolt removed. I don't know why I snapped one of this except that I had a heck of a time getting the vise grips on it. It kept spinning off as I'd turn it from underneath.



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The bracket has welded on nut so you don't need vise grips for that. rest of the bracket removal went without a hitch on the driver's side. To celebrate I did something easy. Remove the spare tire holder.



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The passenger side was another story. That's where I twisted off both bolts into those welded on nuts. What the heck do I do now? :poke:

I've heard that you drill them out. It sounded simple. It isn't.

I tried to be safe. I used a punch to mark the bolt bits before drilling.



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Then I drilled. It went in but moved sort of sideways halfway through. No amount of twisting or moving would set it back straight.



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Here's what I was left with. I thought about removing the nuts but as I mentioned they're welded on. I couldn't knock them off without damaging the bracket. I'm still trying to figure out what to do. :confused:



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jbgroby July 14th, 2013 12:39 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
The 4 fender braces (kickstand things) are available for $80.00 in the LMC catalog. I held onto mine as well and will simple paint them.

WDShaffer July 18th, 2013 07:15 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
You can gently use an angle grinder to cut the welds, then weld new nuts in place with a mig or tig welder...keeping with the spend $500 to fix it myself theme. ��

Andice July 19th, 2013 08:58 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Drill them out - including the threads - and re-tap using the next size up. Maybe even metric if needed. No grinding, no welding, low-cost.

FetchMeAPepsi July 19th, 2013 09:39 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by WDShaffer (Post 49390)
You can gently use an angle grinder to cut the welds, then weld new nuts in place with a mig or tig welder...keeping with the spend $500 to fix it myself theme. ��


That sounds like exactly what I should do :thumbsup:

I need to finaygle access to a welder. I did some practice welding last year when I thought I'd need to weld some on the body panels. Stack o dimes I am not. :teehee:


Today my oldest bebe said she wanted to paint my hood emblems so I pulled those off. They take a 7/16 socket or nut driver.

Here's how they looked. Someone at one time painted them all white with a spray can.



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Open the hood and poke yer 7/16 nut driver through the hole inside. If you crane your neck you can see it with a flashlight and get it on pretty easily.



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They're on kinda tight so here's your big boy panties.



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Grunt alot in case someone is watching.

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And remember that you're loosening the only thing holding it to the hood. And that it's over your head. OVER...YOUR HEAD....Hold it up with your free hand as it comes loose or suffer the consequences.



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Then I took them to the sink to wash them off and scrub them with a scotch brite sponge (green side).



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I sat them in the window to dry.



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You may be saying, "What the heck dude! You left paintz on there!" :whipit: Well these are aluminum and the general consensus for outdoor aluminum is that if original paint is still sticking well you should prime over it. It's not like painting steel where it's better to sand it down to shiny metal. I did get all of the spray paint off. Promise!

So after drying I primed them with two very light coats so I didn't fill in the details on it, I left them to dry and be collected by the redheaded baker of the family.



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Another shot of the stuff I use to prime everything. Except the body panels, frame, bumpers, and heavy stuff. That'll get epoxy primer if/when I get to it.



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FetchMeAPepsi July 19th, 2013 09:54 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Someone PMd me and asked for pics of the spare tire carrier. I put as much detail in this as I could think of just in case some of you can't find one and want to build your own. I bet it could be done without too much trouble if you're a welder.

Here it is from the front. It was only tied to the truck with three bolts pictured. There are two more bolt holes at the top but they have welded on nuts. PLEASE PLEASE USE PB BLASTER AND LOW TORQUE TO REMOVE THEM if you're taking one off of a junkyard machine or you'll break them off in the welded nuts!



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Here's a side view with my manual peeking out from the left. Toasty!



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Looking at the bottom of it. Mine is old and used so it's got funny measurements as it goes up and down.



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Picture of it held in it's place on the truck.



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Here's a pic of it on my kitchen counter. Wife's not home haha! It's 20 inches long.



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FetchMeAPepsi July 19th, 2013 10:05 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Sorry for this picture. It's my thumb but the measurement is still clear at the bottom. This is measuring the width of the carrier, 10 1/2 inches.



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A supporting rod measurement



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Middle supporting rod



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Bottom supporting rod.



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Bottom of mounting plate



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Side of the mounting plate



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Top of the mounting plate.



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View from the back showing the bent rods making the mount area.



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:goodluck:

FetchMeAPepsi July 19th, 2013 10:13 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Andice (Post 49402)
Drill them out - including the threads - and re-tap using the next size up. Maybe even metric if needed. No grinding, no welding, low-cost.

I tried drilling them out but they went all sideways on me even after I punched them with a punch. :pullinghairout:

Cayoterun July 19th, 2013 11:27 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Andice (Post 49402)
Drill them out - including the threads - and re-tap using the next size up. Maybe even metric if needed. No grinding, no welding, low-cost.

As an interested follower of this thread. Great idea!! After many years of tinkering, it never soaked in on me to drill and tap any that twisted off. Proves your never too old to learn.

Hey, Fetch, This ol' Geezer has profited from your build, too.

Thanks, Andice,

FetchMeAPepsi July 20th, 2013 02:33 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Coyote, Andice, how do you guys drill a straight hole and keep it from running off into the sunset? Above I tapped it with a punch to put a starter hole but then it just wandered off to the right and no amount of pushin could get it back where it was supposed to be.

Andice July 20th, 2013 03:20 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Turn the piece over and start again from the other side. You may have to grind down any excess bolt material. Larger bits tend to travel less. The first one is the toughest - after that you'll be a pro. This will work well on the front fender tail bolts which are almost always ready to twist off

Cayoterun July 20th, 2013 03:38 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi (Post 49414)
Coyote, Andice, how do you guys drill a straight hole and keep it from running off into the sunset? Above I tapped it with a punch to put a starter hole but then it just wandered off to the right and no amount of pushin could get it back where it was supposed to be.

Fetch: I've had the same trouble, so I'm readin' and listenin' for new tricks, too.

I have drilled them crooked, but then cheated by using a smaller bolt and adding a nut, but that don't always work due to space or access.

WDShaffer July 20th, 2013 03:52 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
I will admit, I already have the welder...and I use a fiber cutoff wheel. The square stove bolt nuts fit right in place, too.

I have used heat before, too. Using a large torch tip or a rosebud tip, heat the offender to dull red (bright red too close to melting). If a nub is sticking out the back try to screw the remnant through. (Not a task for your PFs...very hot work).

FetchMeAPepsi July 21st, 2013 06:05 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by WDShaffer (Post 49419)
I will admit, I already have the welder...and I use a fiber cutoff wheel. The square stove bolt nuts fit right in place, too.

I have used heat before, too. Using a large torch tip or a rosebud tip, heat the offender to dull red (bright red too close to melting). If a nub is sticking out the back try to screw the remnant through. (Not a task for your PFs...very hot work).

I'll take it to my FIL's house and use his torch/welder/drill press to see what kinda damage I can do. Worst case I can always run a bolt through it and put a nut on the end but with it being so tight up there I'd rather go back to a welded nut.

Today was kinda weak. I got five 4x4 treated posts with the plan to build a frame to put my bed on before retiring the wood to fence post duty. Here they are kinda laid out. Four are cut at 3' each and I'll space them 6 feet apart, then use one 8' board/log to brace one side by bolting it to two of the 3' boards. The other side won't be braced. If that makes sense at all. Kids won't be allowed over there for safety reasons.



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So I laid out my boards intending to drill holes into them and dry-fit them so I had an idea of what I was doing. Nope - my nails were too short to go through both boards. GRRR!

Here's a shot of my whiteboard with some helper-added tidbits including lyrics to "If I had a million dollars" and some of my son's stinky turds. He's obsessed with drawing turds lately. I hope he's not becoming a fecalphiliac.

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So this means spending money on bolts and by now we know how tight I am. Guess I'll be picking up some 6" spikes or lag bolts next week sometime.

Instead I sprayed PB Blaster on the 8 bolts that I think are all that holds my bed to my frame.



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Then I went out back and replaced a board on my deck, grumbling about my lack of planning. Afterward I met our new neighbors. Seem to be nice people, but who knows. Maybe I can get him hooked on GMCs :lolflag:

tommyduncan July 25th, 2013 03:37 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to do this build thread. It brings back memories of my daughter helping me with a 61 Chevy Brookwood wagon years ago. She is almost 20 now...

I also acquired a 62 with a V6 recently so I read this from the beginning. I won't have it home for another month so I am absorbing all the Info I can from threads like yours:notworthy:

FetchMeAPepsi July 26th, 2013 01:54 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by tommyduncan (Post 49498)
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to do this build thread. It brings back memories of my daughter helping me with a 61 Chevy Brookwood wagon years ago. She is almost 20 now...

I also acquired a 62 with a V6 recently so I read this from the beginning. I won't have it home for another month so I am absorbing all the Info I can from threads like yours:notworthy:

I'm glad I could stir up some memories for you! I have to say this is my favorite time of life right now. I'm not rich and I'm not the healthiest guy but when the Powder Puff and I are out there turning wrenches I'm about as happy as I can be. Each moment is golden. :bananadance:

Good luck with the 62. it's a fun year but alot of parts arent made for it anymore unlike the 4-5-6's. We gotta get creative in this camp sometimes. Still you caint beat that wraparound windshield in my book. It's allllllll classssssss
Do you have any pics of the wagon? My oldest got my emblems painted this week. Its crazy how much it makes me grin when any of them take an interest. I'll post pics of it tomorrow.

Speaking of tomorrow (well, saturday anyway) it's the day for the Big Bed Removal! Hoping I have all the bolts lined out and ready for takeoff. :ahhhh:

tommyduncan July 26th, 2013 02:52 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi (Post 49512)
Do you have any pics of the wagon?

This is the only pic I have. My best friend was with me when I bought it and when I was ready to sell it we made a deal. He painted it red. This is the reflection of it in the quarter panel of his 66 El Camino that he painted himself


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I sold it to him to buy a gutted 63 Nova SS Convertible. I have been dragging it around for years while other projects came and went. I have since located all of the hard to find convertible only parts and it is just waiting for the time to be right, which is very soon!


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The main reason for wanting a truck was to tow my Nova, Jeep, and for home projects. I traded a motorcycle for a 63 Chevy long step but it is not close enough to what I want.


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So I cut my losses and bought the 62.

FetchMeAPepsi July 28th, 2013 03:32 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Great looking wagon and '63. As you can see I'm partial to longsteppers myself :D
When you start the nova Id like to see a build thread on that too.

FetchMeAPepsi July 28th, 2013 04:59 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Wow guys. Today....what a day. I'm so sore I feel like....well,



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I just spent most of the day trying to get this bed done. Here's what I've done so far.

For this portion you'll need:

A helper. Strength not necessary.
A severe lack of brain cells
A 1/2 inch socket
A 9/16 socket
A 5/8 socket
Socket wrench. Required for the tight spots.
An impact wrench if you have one. Not necessary but handy.
A hammer
A pair of GOOD vice grips or two pair of crappy Stanley brand vice grips. (one will be ruined)
Some PB Blaster if you haven't shot them already (BIG difference
A flathead screwdriver
5 4x4 fence posts (about $7.50 each at Lowes)
6 - 10 6 inch lag bolts (About 0.75 each at Lowes)
A drill and a drill bit that is lag bolt'ish in diameter
Some musk'les or some spinach to make you some musk'les



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I don't have any muskles. Yeah I know everyone's a butt flexing workout freak now. Not me though. My arms are smaller than the fence posts we're working with. What can I say? I got a life. I'll never be a gym rat. :ohgeesh:


But you make due with whatcha got right?

Here we go. :whipit:



There are 8 bolts holding the bed to the frame, plus two holding it to the bumper in my case.

Get those vice grips and grab the first bolt-head. These have to be held still while you unscrew the nut from the bottom. I started in the driver's side front.



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Get it clamped on good too or you'll be playing Whack A Mole as you jump up and reattach it after every turn. If you're using cheap Stanley brand of vice grips here's where they'll start to wear the teeth off. That's why you need two pair.

Ok, then move underneath and get your socket put on this nut on the frame. I PB Blastered mine and let it sit a full week so they came off really easy. Bzzzzt! Done.



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The next one is right toward the tailgate about 8 inches from the first. Top view:



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And bottom view. All of the front nuts are between frame braces like this.



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Then I moved to the one by the tailgate. I skipped over the one closer to the rear center line because the nut is in a goofy place on the inside of the frame.

Clamped on:



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And bottom view on the nut:



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Now we move to the weird one just cabward from the one we just did. Clamp on it up top as before. Then brace the vice grips against something because this bolt is far out in the middle. It'll spin like a top if you don't brace it. I chose the Powder Puff Mechanic's feet as my brace. She got the giggles when it turned and pitched her off.

Ignore the blue step on the left. I had to put the removed pieces in the bed to keep them from being underfoot.



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For the nut you have to lie down and crawl under the truck. Then look back the way you came into the frame. Peek-A-Boo! There it is. PB Blaster it now if you haven't before.



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Getting under there is tough on old worn out bones. I use a

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that turns into a seat to get under there with my bad back and hip. It's a transformer. Did I mention it's awesome?



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Yeah, it's great :) Sorry, I think about it every time I have to get down low and it friggin HURTS. It makes life a lot easier.

Anyway, slide around under the truck with a socket wrench. There's no spot for an impact here. Also I didn't PB Blast this because I didn't see it earlier. This was a tough nut to crack by hand.



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The powder puff liked standing on the vice grips so much she stuck with it for the remaining bolts. I moved to the rearward bolt on the passenger side next.



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TIP: To keep from losing my nuts I hand threaded them all back on the bolts after removing them. I had to drive Cecilia to the back yard so this also kept it in place. Tough to explain a truck bed in the middle of the road to the neighbors. :ahhhh:



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Here's my helper standing on the bolts again.



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I removed the other two by the cab without fanfare. Here they are in one pic because I was winding down and getting tired.



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FetchMeAPepsi July 28th, 2013 05:22 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Due to this being a one man and two little kid show I wanted to remove the tailgate to make this thing a little lighter.

I put a 1/2 inch socket on it and spun it.



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Put a helper on the other side to catch the fallout. Our helper here lost two more teeth last night. In one night. I said, "Go brush your teeth for bed" last night and she said, "Daddy, I don't have any more teeth!" Har har.



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Mine were stuck in this stupid welded-on bumper. I whacked it with a hammer and it gave up pretty quickly.



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After getting both chains off I started on the nut at the bottom of the tailgate.


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YOU NEED TO BRACE THE TAILGATE BEFORE DOING THIS.

I thought it was a bolt that ran the length of the tailgate. I was very very wrong. I spun it about a half-second then the entire tailgate fell off into the floor. The Powder Puff was only about 6 inches off to the side.

Here's her reaction right afterward.



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I can't show you mine. I was pretty upset by this hunk of heavy steel almost hitting my kid. I don't swear but I sure had a frowny face on for a while. :tickedoff:

Here's all that holds the tailgate on.



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After that we moved Cecilia back to the backyard. Actually no, we took a little break to cool off. Then our new neighbors pulled up and what are they towing? No, not a GMC, but a '78 Camaro. My oldest said, "Ooo Daddy, you guys can talk about old junky cars together! You'll be besties!" LOL!
We walked out and shot the bull with them for about 30 mins or so. I'm even more convinced that they're pretty good people now. You can't beat great neighbors. He wants to paint his camaro himself by winter. Maybe I'll get to help and get some tips.

As a side note, if I paint Cecilia it'll be the dead last thing I do. I don't know why everyone wants to hurry to paint. Don't you just scratch it all up while you're working on the rest of it? I don't trust myself that much. I'm sure I'd ruin any paintjob if I wasn't almost all finished before shooting paint.

OK now we moved to the backyard.

Vernski July 28th, 2013 05:33 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
That is a tough job for two grown men no matter how you do it, rusty bolts are the curse of the GMC owner.My sympathy is with your skinned knuckle's that take drive..Vernski:goodjob:

FetchMeAPepsi July 28th, 2013 05:54 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
After driving her to the back we cleaned her bed out.



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Removed all of the bolts. Here's a tip - they're all the same. Someone told me they're different lengths. They're not.



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Then I placed the first post in the front between the bed and frame. You don't have to lift or anything to get it started. It's already got a void that fits partway in.



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At this point I remembered that there is an electrical junction on the bed by the bumper. DOH! I took that off with a flathead screwdriver.



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Then I lifted it up so my helper could shove the board through to the other side. My helper is my oldest daughter this time. She's not strong, she's not tough. She's just a girly girl. If she can do it just about anyone you have hand can probably help just fine.

Pay no mind to that handsome guy in the pic.



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You have to really raise it up high and the bed flexes a lot. It's not very heavy in the front though.

The back is stupid heavy though. I had to crawl under it and push up with my feet (and bad hip) to get it up high enough to slip the posts in.

My oldest was supposed to snap a pic of me pushing the bed up. She just took a pick of what appears to be the old man's butt. Very funny ya punk kid.



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After getting a post under front and back (8 ft uncut) I still couldn't lift it over the bumper's fins in back because it weight about a billion pounds. So we put another block under the front.



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And the back. It looked like this.



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From my perch here I was finally able to lift it up to the top of the bumper fins. It wanted to push me over backward. I have a trailer back there though and used it to step on and brace myself. I recommend you don't do this at all. Get a cherry picker or a forklift and just pull it off. This is VERY DANGEROUS.



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I set it down gently on the fins themselves. This allowed us to move the boards to the front so I could pull it backward some without it falling off of all of the bracing blocks and killing me.



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When I pulled it backward off of the fins the first blocks collapsed. That was OK because it fell on the backups. I had it past the fins anyway at this point so I was golden as far as I was concerned.



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FetchMeAPepsi July 28th, 2013 06:09 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
My plan was now to tie my braces together and drive forward. That didn't happen, but it sounded like a good plan.

I drilled pilot holes and ran my lag bolts into my boards under the rear.



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Then ran it in to secure the post and cross piece.



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Next I moved to the front. I picked up the front cross piece to put it on the post. No problem.




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But then I did the final "foot" on the driver's side front and the entire thing collapsed toward the rear. If it hadn't been for the trailer behind the truck the bed would have fallen to the ground and probably scratched or tore itself up horribly.



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At this point I was too worn out to do anything else. This was a real body killer here. This is what it looks like as I type this, my hands sore and throbbing and my muscles crying for pharmaceuticals. Note the boy making a surprise appearance. He happened to be in the mood to help as we were closing up. Shirtless. "Dis one's for da' way'dees! (ladies)"



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I'm dead. Tomorrow if I can move I'll go out there again and try to get it up on blocks again and nail a brace between the two posts as originally planned. I'll then pull forward till I get to the front stake pocket, then lift it over the fins as I did the rear. If I'm lucky.

I'll let you know how tomorrow goes.

Andice July 28th, 2013 10:05 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
1 Attachment(s)
I guess that monster of a rear bumper is welded in place, eh? Too bad. I thought I had it tough just trying to lift my bed high enough to clear the upward curvature of the rear frame section - but your bumper "wings" are crazy high. I simply dropped my bed down on the driveway and let it sit on the tailgate. Then I tilted it forward on a sawhorse. Then we slid more support under the rear of the bed. I worried about how I was going to get my bed back on after the truck body was painted. I ended up recruiting some help with the offer of free beer. It worked.

FetchMeAPepsi July 29th, 2013 10:29 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Vernski (Post 49552)
That is a tough job for two grown men no matter how you do it, rusty bolts are the curse of the GMC owner.My sympathy is with your skinned knuckle's that take drive..Vernski:goodjob:

Thanks! I'm hard headed. Sometimes too much :(

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andice (Post 49561)
I guess that monster of a rear bumper is welded in place, eh? Too bad. I thought I had it tough just trying to lift my bed high enough to clear the upward curvature of the rear frame section - but your bumper "wings" are crazy high. I simply dropped my bed down on the driveway and let it sit on the tailgate. Then I tilted it forward on a sawhorse. Then we slid more support under the rear of the bed. I worried about how I was going to get my bed back on after the truck body was painted. I ended up recruiting some help with the offer of free beer. It worked.

Yeah, I considered just taking a grinder to the fins and removing them altogether to make things easier but I wasn't sure I could weld them back on in the future. At least not and have them look right.
Your helper there doesn't look like your average "beer for work" buddy :D
You're a lucky man! My blonde won't even ride in my truck lol.

FetchMeAPepsi July 29th, 2013 10:50 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
I went outside on Sunday sore and aching. I surveyed the wreckage.



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The first step was to see if things were stable. I looked underneath and saw it was resting on the trailer's tongue and the tongue spinny thing that runs the front wheel pad up and down. I forget what it's called.



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Then it hit me. It's right there halfway on the trailer anyway. The trailer is like 25 feet long. All it has on it now is a spare tarped 305....there's plenty of room!



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So I took the tailgate and pieces I had just put on the trailer off and started huffing it backward onto the trailer. My thoughts were that I could easily pick it up off of the trailer, at least easier than off the ground.



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After kinda walking it backward a bit I had to move around over the frame again and push from the front. Then it hit me - O

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href="http://windypix.com/?pm=RZC9" target="_blank">

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Standing on the rear axle gave me an amazing foot cramp! Ha ha you thought I died didn't you? That's why you shouldn't do this. Be smart and get someone to do it for you with heavy equipment. :D

From the front I walked it backward inch by inch, pushing one side then the other like youd do with a fridge.



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The tailgate area finally reached the trailer bed and stuck. So I pulled out my jack and put it under the truck bed to give it wheels to roll better into the trailer.



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Eventually I got it walked and rolled to the end of the bed. Whew!



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FetchMeAPepsi July 29th, 2013 11:18 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
From here I tried to be a big tough man and lift it up over the fins again to clear the stake posts for the front but there was no way that was happening. I was too sore from yesterday and I'm just not that strong.

Instead I put my spare 4x4 under the bed from here to the trailer's front rail.



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Then I made my redhead come out and push the post down to take some of the weight off of me. Her little 90 lb frame wasn't big enough to push it down so she improvised.



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I eventually got it worked around where I could lift it one corner at a time. This let her use her hands (and be more safe with me lifting on it) to help me lever it upward.



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I propped one side on the fins, then the other. It weighed a ton.




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But finally it was FREE! All that was left was sliding it down the lever onto the trailer.



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This is where she rested when I gave out. And it's where she'll stay for now.



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I heavily recommend you not do this by yourself. Or at all.
I can't say it enough. I had a lot of close calls, pinned feet and legs, and pinched digits. One slip or shift and I could have ended up with broken bones.

So, lesson learned:
  • Truck beds are heavy
  • Sometimes it's good to know people. If you don't know anyone, make your own helpers.
  • There will come a point in your rebuild that you'll realize you didn't get what you thought you did. It's still what you have though. Enjoy it.

FetchMeAPepsi July 29th, 2013 11:29 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
I forgot to mention these things. They're little blocks located under the wonky bolts under the bed. You know, the ones that are inside the frame. They go on like this and are metal so they'll get a painting.



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Look at how easy access to that rear end is now? I also found some numbers on it after the bed was off. I was looking in the wrong place.

THey're not on the cover at all, they're on the top right side of the axle. It's still a Dana 44 :lolflag:



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To celebrate our little victory and my not losing a limb my redhead sat down and finished our emblems. She said "For $20 bucks each I'd do this all day" so if you guys want 'em done I guess PM me and give her a week. School starts soon and there's alot of touchup.



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The Powder Puff mechanic wanted to whittle. I don't know where she heard it before but I was about her age when my dad taught me. So here she goes. Dull pocket knife and stick in hand.



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And me? Well I got to work putting this together. I wish you guys could smell 'em. :D



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Coming up next I'll probably paint some of those supports I took off. Then on the weekend I'll pull a wheel off and see if I need to order brakes along with the rear end seals.

FetchMeAPepsi August 11th, 2013 04:25 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
A couple of weekends went by. You'd think nothin happened but it did! I fell into a great 175psi 2 stage 80 gallon 220v Porter Cable compressor!

For FREEEEEEEEEE!!!! :egyptian::egyptian::egyptian:
Here it sits next to my 20 gallon noisemaker.



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I just about had a heart attack. So I rushed out and picked it up. I got it home and put on rubber feet (chopped up old Cecilia tires) in the corner. There it sat all week while I ordered the electrical stuff online. We may as well call this post "How to Wire 220 in your house". Here's my shopping list:
  • 1x 10/2 Romex with ground, 50 ft. (or enough to reach the panel if you have to go that far)
  • 2x 4" square box with 1/2" knockouts ($0.99 ea at lowes)
  • 1x 4" square raise plate single hole cover (for receptacle to poke through)
  • 1x 4" square blank plate (to cover the box that will connect to existing wire. Not req'd if panel wired) ($0.91 at lowes)
  • 6x 2 screw romex connectors
  • 1x NEMA L6-30 30 amp twist lock plug (also called a wire cap)
  • 1x NEMA L6-30R twist lock receptacle
  • 8x Big Gray Wire Nuts
  • 1x 8 ft. Gray Electric grade PVC Pipe ($1.99 at Lowes)
  • 1x Gray Pipe 90 Degree Bend with 1/2 inch knockout sized socket (to fit in 4" square box) ($2.64 at Lowes)
  • 4x 3/4" One Hole Straps (for holding the wire to the wall) ($0.98 bag of 4 at Lowes)
  • 1x 3/4 inch hydraulic hose 4ft long with connectors (Tractor Supply or auto store)
  • 1x Electrical Hotstick. I got this

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    .

I still dont have a few of the cover plates but everything else is here. I was anxious to get started so I got my stuff laid out. I began by putting my boxes together. I knocked out a left, right, and top hole one one box. Then I knocked out only one side hole on the other. Here's how that's done.

Knock on the hole with a hammer or hammer and screwdriver until it's slightly bent.



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Then grab it with your pliers. Wiggle it back and forth till it comes free.



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Now put your Romex connector in the hole and tighten it down.



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Repeat this for every one of the three holes in the box that'll go in the attic. For the box that will be by your compressor (or whatever you're running) you can put the gray 90 degree connector in it if you want but we'll take it back out later. Here's what it kinda will look like.



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Now grab your NEMA plug and the cable coming from your compressor. Mine came with bare wires snipped off. Take the two big screws off of your plug and set the screws and plastic clamps aside. Now poke your cable through the back of the plug. It has a rubber surround that might make this difficult to push but I got it. So can you.



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Strip the wires about 1/4 inch on the ends then poke them into the plug. The black wire goes in the gold screw's slot, the white, yellow, or red (not all three!) will go in the silver screw's slot. The bare or green wire goes in the green screw's slot.



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