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1966 c20
Okay, now that I have a new-to-me truck, it's time to get started with the fun stuff!
First day in the shop: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? It looks like a SM420, its a 4 speed with the reverse on the left, and a 250 I6 from what I've found so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: 1966 c20
Info on the kick panel:
To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? No spin! To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? I think it's a 250 I6 To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: 1966 c20
Thanks for the update on your new project. It looks like a good cleaning will bring back some of it's former glory! I sure hope you keep us posted.
Is this truck running? Looks like it may be. I brought one in similar condition back from scrap status a few years back, a '55 GMC half ton. The engine and tranny combo is nearly identical. Near as I can figure it is about a 1966 230 I-6 someone put in it many years ago. Was a non-runner but 5 years later I am still pleased with the driveability and mileage that engine gets. Like you I hope to own a 6066 GMC with the V-6 someday. I Would dig more pics! DAC |
Re: 1966 c20
Yep she runs alright, I have a spare carb so I can rebuild it and that should fix the small issues it has. I just need to weld a panel on the floor and fix up the rust hole. Then I'll hit her with a power washer and repaint her eventually!
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Re: 1966 c20
I'm compiling my list of things to do. Trying to decide if I want to keep the 250I6 or not, it's not the original engine so i won't be messing with the character of the truck, but I think I want to keep it for now.
So far we my todo list includes: (Not in this order) Weld new floor panel in (inside along rockers on the driver side is where the hole is) Rebuild Carb Get air intake filter fix or replace headers replace exhaust (same time as headers) get windshield wipers clean all the paint fix dents Bondo dents not fixable paint with rustoleum Primer with a good filler primer Paint truck Paint inside of cab get new bench seat Remove rotten plywood and bed wood with mushrooms growing out of it (sorry, but I don't need a mushroom farm in my truck haha) Remove the bed Sand the frame Paint the frame with rustoleum to protect it Replace the shocks (springs front and back? I was surprised to find springs in the back) Remove tires / wheels and repaint the wheels Get new wheels (I dislike the current steelies, though I might keep them and paint them black) New windshield and windshield seal (not as important right now) Fix factory A/C (it's got hoses going to the AC box in the back of the dash. But it seems like it's missing something. Test the cooling system ( rad hoses get hot, needs to be topped off and overflow added, then verify flow to / from heater) (also need to replace the heat / cool panel insides( So I've got a lot to do it looks like! The main thing for me right now is to fix the floor when I can afford to, and get it licensed to drive and insured, and definitely that exhaust needs to go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: 1966 c20
Okay, so I've decided on my first project to be undertaken, fixing the lights! Both headlights were working, then only one, and now it only works as a high beam. I'm not sure if this is wiring or if it is just bad headlights (though my assumption was that when a halogen went out it was completely out, not just high or low). The tail lights work (but are extremely dim, perhaps a bad ground?) and the blinkers light up. Unfortunately the wiring is kind of hacked up from the engine swap and there are a lot of wires I'm not sure about. But I think making it street legal takes precedence over any other projects I have in mind. If you have any input, that would be great!
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Re: 1966 c20
I'm also going to look into the parking brake cable, as mine is currently disconnected. (These parking brakes are cool!
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Re: 1966 c20
have you washed it yet?
ron |
Re: 1966 c20
Not yet, just a bit with a hose which took a lot of the stuff off, I spent the last few days moving and just finally got a break. I ended up at a friends house this weekend that i haven't seen for a while and visiting with another good friend who is on leave from the army now, but he's shipping out to Baghdad here pretty soon so I decided visiting them was a bit more important. I did get everything ready before leaving, so when I get back on Sunday (or maybe Monday) ill pressure wash her clean and rebuild the carb, that should help a lot, and I've got till the 6th off, so I've got a bit of time. I'll definitely add pictures after a good wash though.
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Re: 1966 c20
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Looking forward to seeing your Chevy all cleaned up! DAC |
Re: 1966 c20
Sorry I haven't been updating, but for some reason the Tapatalk app won't load this forum, and my iPhone won't open it either! (unfortunately all my pics are on the iPhone, so ill have to sort that out late).
So, the headlights! i spent about an hour and a half drinking with my volt meter testing the headlight wires every foot to a few inches from start to finish, didn't find anything. Finally looked closer at the headlight (like i should have in the firs place) and found that it was broken and full of water. replaced both lights with two new ones, and, LET THERE BE LIGHT! not a single issue in the darn thing! now unfortunately my volt meter crapped out on me, so I'm hoping the tail light on the same side is the same issue (a new tail light bulb is only like $3.50 anyways). my right rear blinker works, but some idiot cut the wires on the front blinker between the fire wall and the hood, no left blinker at all. I'm still having the startup issue though. I bought a carb rebuild kit thinking i would rebuild it (it turned out to be a general rebuild kit, so a lot of spare parts and i was lost!) so about half way through i decided I would just brake clean parts of it, replace the jet and needle, then replace the fuel filter and gaskets and i would just put it back together. Now it leaks gas through the gasket and it STILL doesn't start!!! when i get some time (either in the morning tomorrow, thursday, or some time friday) I will take the carb back off, and (depending on how motivated i'm feeling) either take it apart again and carb dip it (costs money that i don't have) or just trouble shoot it as much as i can. things i know so far: 1. when fuel line is put in a bottle and the starter is turned over it will squirt fuel into the bottle 2. fule filter is clean 3. the carb will be getting an air filter soon 4. Motorcycle carbs are NOT, i repeat, NOT the same as these carbs! 5. i changed the bottom of the float to the float bowl measurement from 1 7/8" to 1 3/4" as the instructions said to. 6. if i dump even a little gas into the carb it starts up fine with no issues 7. I will be removing the choke line and just adjusting it by hand until the truck is warm, then I can go and drive somewhere. (choke cable keeps binding) 8. I wouldn't mind (at all) if i could just put a small edelbrock or holley carb that i understand how to use on here, but this one is kind of fun to tinker with (though i would appreciate being able to afford to think more) any tips on carb work? its a rochester monojet "B" series (B for basic?? lol) i found some videos on youtube, but the guys on there seem to have some bad habits. |
Re: 1966 c20
Also, are those hinged gizmos by my feet a cold / fresh air vent for the cab?
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Re: 1966 c20
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The model B has two connected floats and they must be parallel or flat with each other and must not rub on the carb body anywhere through up and down travel. Like I said in my earlier post your model B may need to have a throttle cable as well as the choke cable to keep the idle high enough to run while the engine is warming up. That is why I built a Rochester model M, choke cable is all that was needed. Many of these V-6 folks here have knowledge of other 1 BBL carbs, but I'm not qualified to say. Most seem to do a 2 BBL. Pics of my Model B carbs and of the Model M that I put on my 230. Oh yeah those hinged gizmos are fresh air vents. DAC |
Re: 1966 c20
Now that's a pretty engine! I have a second carb as well that in tempted to test, both need a rebuild and a carb dip but they are waiting on my broke college kid budget for it! Lol I'd trade em both for a working replacement to save the hassle of doing it myself. Thanks for the tip on the vents, one was kicked and is broken, but I'll fix that when I get there. I still haven't got the ash tray out yet! But I'll get there. Maybe tomorrow morning I'll get the chance to go and rebuild it properly. Or there is a guy near me that rebuilds them for $100 + materials, if I can't do it right I think I'll ask if he will take the other carb in trade for rebuilding mine.
I've got some serious clean up to do! Random stuff sticking out of the engine is throwing me for a loop right now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: 1966 c20
Even your valve cover doesn't have a random hole in it plugged with rubber. I also noticed the dip stick says fill - add, but even higher up there is a big E on it. I'd like to pull the valve cover and paint it so something looks pretty haha.
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The ash tray deal is kinda funny to me. My wife bought a non-running '64 Chevy pickup a couple years ago to help out the owner. 300 bucks. Glitch was they told her it was a GMC. I went to pull it home and it was a Chevy. Anyway while I was parting it out, the ash tray would not open. I finally just pried it and a pair of fingernail clippers had wedged into it just right to hold it firmly closed! Just to give you a little incentive on cleaning up the engine, here's a pic of my 230 the day I got it and cleaning and painting the engine cost me less than 30 bucks. That was only because when I scraped the grime and rust out of the freeze plugs I hit water! They were rusted out. DAC |
Re: 1966 c20
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To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? top down view: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? So i was going to show you a better picture, but photo bucket decided it wasn't going to work for me (go figure) so i can't upload any new pictures because they don't "click" with photo bucket. I noticed the inside of the oil cap was milky (actually, it looked like a kid blew his nose into it) and was concerned, so i pulled the dipstick (which ironically took the entire tube with it) and the oil had a slight smell of gas to it (very slight, maybe nonexistent and i just thought that because I was standing next to a gas tank). So my goals for tomorrow (before class) bring pressure washer with me so I can wash the truck off (finally) re-attempt carb rebuild. Probably dis-assemble the carb then put it in the carb dip. I'll come back to it tomorrow morning. put the other carb on the truck and see if it runs smoothly (if so, I can back it out of the shop and wash it, if not, i will wash it tomorrow). and yes, i'm 20, 21 in 6 months, I guess that makes me a young-un doesn't it? I love these trucks though, coolest body styles of any truck is the 1960-1966 Chevy / GMC pickups, plus no emissions laws anywhere I go, no legal limits on motor swaps (apparently they have laws regarding engine swaps in newer vehicles in oregon) makes these trucks the perfect puttsing around vehicle for me, and hopefully it will be a good reliable work truck / cruiser for me pretty soon. :thumbsup: |
Re: 1966 c20
Ok sorry to insult you since it says "OIL" on it!---LOL! I did miss that protruding out of the side of the valve cover obviously. Neither of my I-6's have that, so I couldn't tell you if some did or not.
Yeah 20 darn-near makes you a grand-young-un to me! I prefer driving older trucks too, my newest is a 1991 GMC but I only use it when the wind chills are around zero or lower, or over 90* or so as the A/C works good! Keep us posted---DAC |
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ever use that royal purple oil treatment? its supposed to help with low compression and high mileage engines. I'm thinking about giving it a shot when I replace the oil. I really have no idea why that hole is there, but I would like either a new valve cover or a better plug, I've been able to pull just about every part right off the block. I have NO idea how it made it this far! but I'm determined to make it last for another infinite amount of years. |
Re: 1966 c20
The rubber push on "OIL" cap was introduced in the early 70's mainly around 1973 depending on which GM division it was. GMC introduced the rubber cap in 1973 on the all their gas V6 engines. Looking at the pic of the 250 inline six it appears also to have the newer style valve cover as well so that could put it as a 1973-74, possibly someone may have just changed the valve cover but definitely not a 1975 on up as those engines had an integral cylinder head and intake manifold.
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Re: 1966 c20
Cool, thanks. The truck was originally a 327 V8 then converted later on. Do you know what that plug is for?
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Re: 1966 c20
Cool, I know it was a 327 V8, then swapped to a 250 I6 afterwards. I still want to figure out about the hole, though I really need to find a better plug for it and fix all the random loose stuff. Thanks for the info!
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Re: 1966 c20
My phone is jacking up, not sure if any of my previous posts went through or not, but I'll check in tomorrow and fix anything that is messed up.
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Marvel Mystery Oil is a common additive for low compression issues. Many members report good results from it. If memory serves it is around $24.00 per gallon at major Wal-Mart supercenters. -Jeannie 6066 GMC Club |
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Re: 1966 c20
That's good to know, I know it will fall out if you so much as look at it funny right now. Would it be OK to put one of those little breather filters on it? I don't have an air filter yet, so I can't hook it to that yet.
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Re: 1966 c20
In respect to your head lite's have you tried replacing the dimer switch. I had the same problem on my '72 GMC dump truck and that's what it turned out to be. Ross Durham, NC '66 GMC with '12 flat bed, '72 GMC dump.
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Re: 1966 c20
It turns out the headlights were shot, I replaced them both and they both work fine now. I'm lucky that was the issue, because my multi meter just broke!
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Re: 1966 c20
So I finished the rebuild today, and WOOOOOHOOOOO it started with the first turn of the key! But now it's definitely leaking gas and I'm not sure if it's the carb gasket or if it's the new fuel filter. The carb doesn't back fire, but when I turn it off it does smoke for a couple minutes.
The whole carb and obvious wet spot (all gas) To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? The wet gasket (wet along the edges) To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? Bigger picture To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? Before the fuel filter was just screwed in, so I removed it and added a rubber gasket (neoprene) in between, and it still leaked! I'm not sure where it's coming from and I don't think it would be the gasket, though it's a definite possibility. I'm going to re-adjust the floats to sit lower in the bowl and see if that fixes it, if not, I'm lost. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: 1966 c20
Do you have someone that can jump in and start it tomorrow after it's all dried out? That way you could watch and see where it starts.
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Re: 1966 c20
That was my plan, now that it starts easy. I did take the top half of the carb off and scrape it a lot. I might take it all off and sand it a little to make a better mating surface
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Re: 1966 c20
Hello Hantke,
My Rochester carb experience is limited to the "Model B". Your "Model 3M" shares the same "brilliance" in the design of the joint between airhorn (bowl cover/top) and bowl (bottom). Older Rochesters are known to leak at this joint. Following is a discussion regarding this problem with the "Model B". Hope it helps you deal with your "Model 3M". --- ChevyAD-Carb-RochesterB-LeakRepair-CarburetorShop -- Subj: [oletrucks] Re: Leaking Rochester 1bbl. Any cure? Date: 1/27/04 From: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? (Dave) To: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? Re: 1950 GMC 1/2 ton. We just rebuilt the head on the 235 six in the truck and got a replacement rebuilt carb from BFCI in Burbank. As soon as we bolted it together and idled the motor for several minutes, the main body gasket began getting moist and slightly seeping. This is the third remanufactured carb we put on here. I checked the fuel pump pressure - 6 lbs. Shouldn't be too excessive for a brand new needle and seat. I spoke with Jim Carter's about it, and they admitted that most of the remanufactured carbs they sell will leak there too. Almost ever one of those old carbs have been rebuilt several times already, and over-tightened and warped slightly at the mating surfaces. This allows those leaks. Any solutions, short of sealing it up with JB Weld?? Dave Destler oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959 -- Subj: RE: [oletrucks] Re: Leaking Rochester 1bbl. Any cure? Date: 1/27/04 From: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? (Larry R. Kephart) To: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? (Oletrucks) This is a posting from Jon (The Carburetor Shop) on the stovebolt site from last year that may help with the leaky Rochester problem: (Posting from "Carbking" To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? on stovebolt.com forum) Had Rochester only used 8 screws instead of 4 to hold the airhorn/bowl cover to the bowl on the "B" series carburetors, this would not be a problem. As they didn't, warpage from heating/cooling cycles causes an internal vacuum leak in the passage controlling the power valve, causing it to stay in the open position (too rich). Double gaskets may work for awhile, but will hasten better repairs. The procedure we use is very time-consuming, but also very simple and I will post here for do-it-yourselfers. First obtain some scrap iron plate at least 3/8 inch thick. Drill holes in the plate to align with the airhorn/bowl screws; also machine the plate so that it can be placed flat on either the bowl or the air horn (or use two plates). Now, screw the airhorn to the plate (snug, but do not tightened. With a feeler guage, measure the clearance between the airhorn and the plate. Take another plate and place on top of the airhorn; and using a rather sophisticated fixture (C-clamp), clamp the two plates together, squeezing the airhorn. Tighten the C-clamp to remove 0.003 inches; NO MORE. Set the assembly in an oven and heat to 400 degrees F. Allow to cool naturally. When cool, the C-Clamp will probably be loose. The heat and tension reverse the warpage process. Repeat until warpage is gone. Repeat for the bowl. Of course, in another 15 years, the problem will return. Filing or milling the castings flat obviously removes metal, and the repair will be very temporary, and ruins the castings for proper repair. Best to take the time and do it right the first time. Oh, one other thing, best to not use the oven belonging to your significant other! Jon. Larry Kephart 1955 1st 3100 Chevy (BillyBob) 1991 Jeep Wrangler (Renegade) Boca Raton, Florida e-mail: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? -- Date: 1/28/04 From: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? (Brian Davis) To: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? Someone suggested: after a rebuild, soak the carb in a coffee can full of gas overnight before installing it. I did just that with a leaking Rochester carb off my '49. It has been two years now and it still does not leak. Brian -- Subj: Re: [oletrucks] Re: Leaking Rochester 1bbl. Any cure? Date: 1/28/04 From: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? (tim) To: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? (Ole Truckers) Brian Davis wrote: > ...after a rebuild to soak the carb in a coffee can full of gas overnight before you install it... < It's been a while since I took a class on Materials, but I'm having trouble seeing just what that would do. Tim Lloyd, To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? 1954 Chevy 3100 Pickup "Peanut" 1954 Chevy 3100 Panel "Being paid for" -- Date: 1/28/04 From: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? , To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? Hello Ole Truckers, On the Rochester "B" overnight gas soak matter, I asked Steve, who operates our neighborhood service station. (He repeatedly says the worst mistake he ever made was to sell his 1949 AD 3100. In my book, that puts him in about the top 5 percentile of all service station operators. He'd be in the top 2 if he had kept it.) He suggests three things could happen: 1) The gas, full of ethyl alcohol and butane additives, not to mention molasses mistakenly pumped into the railroad tank car somewhere up the line, eats through both the carburetor and the coffee can. In the morning it's all gone. If you're like me, you figure the thief needed what's gone more than I do: you buy a new carburetor and try to get on with your life. 2) The same gas, with the same stuff in it, softens the gaskets and saturates them with a good dose of gas varnish. The soft gaskets conform to the Rochester's twists. The varnish seals things up. No more gas leak. 3) It's called luck--kind of like hitting the oletruck's frame with a two-pound hammer to fix an electrical short you can't find. When it works you think the hammer is the best electrical tool ever invented. Anybody know if Steve is on to something? Regards, Culver Adams 1951 Chevy 3100 -- Date: 1/28/04 From: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? To: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? I had leaky Rochester's. The ultimate cure was to switch to 1bbl Carters (Stovebolt). However, I was able to dramatically reduce--and on a couple of occassions completely stop--leaks by: 1) installing a fuel pressure gauge (NAPA) and running the pressure at about 2-1/2 to 3 lbs. (made a big diffence on leakage and no problem on performance). 2) disassembling the carb body and machining absolutely flat, and then polishing, the mating surfaces--both tops and bottoms. Then I put them back together and torqued the screws to get an even pull on the gaskets. It was expensive but it worked. Steve G. -- Date: 1/28/04 From: Cadamsarch To: IDPHR Hello Steve, I like your thought--and results--about limiting fuel pressure to the carb. Is there an easy way and are there off the shelf parts to do this? From your experience, what is it about Carter carbs that makes them less leaky than Rochesters? Thanks and Regards, Culver Adams 1951 Chevy 3100 -- Date: 1/28/04 From: IDPHR To: Cadamsarch I have a '51 3100 which initially had a '54 full pressure 235. I went with the Offy dual intake w/ Fenton headers, dual exhaust and a Mallory dual point ignition. Everything was great except the carbs were leaking and sometimes they would load-up and actually overflow. I rebuilt them and had pros rebuild them but still I had problems. I asked the AD world for help: the fuel pressure suggestion seemed reasonable so I went to my local NAPA store and bought an adjustable fuel pressure gauge and intalled it between the fuel pump (I have a stock fuel pump) and the carbs. It reduced my problems immediately. The other idea was just the result of deductive reasoning. Why does a carb leak? It leaks because fuel is able to seep through the mating surfaces or other holes in the carb. I studied mine and determined that the primary leak was between the air horn and the carb body. I had it taken apart machined absolutely flat and polished then put it back together taking care to properly align and torque the screws. It stopped the leaking. I've also considered epoxying the mating surfaces instead of gaskets. They do that a lot on Quadra-jet 4bbls. As far as Carters are concerned, I have a lot of respect for the guy who runs Stovebolt Engine Co. He's a former automotive engineer for GM. His contention is that the Rochester's are not properly sized for the 235: they're to big. His solution was Carter 1 bbls: smaller, same performance, better gas mileage and no leaks. Well, I had just purchased a rebuilt "58 235 for my truck and decided to try the Carters' (relatively inexpensive about $65. each). A great decision: all the things he said would happen did: the truck runs great, no leaks and I get about 18mpg (I got 12 with my 2 Rochesters). Hope you're successful in solving your problems: let me know how you do. Steve G. 1951 3100 PU 1952 Suburban Carryall 1970 El Camino SS 396 --- Regards and Hope this helps, Culver Adams Minneapolis, MN 1961 GMC K1500 PS: On my 1951 Chevy I replaced Rochester with Carter and have been happy since. |
Re: 1966 c20
Good tip, thanks! I'm not sure if I want to jump into any serious repairs right now (mostly the $$ reason, my current income is about $20 more than what I spend on gas, so it will take time to accumulate the tools and other needed materials for a serious repair). My thoughts currently are to go to a parts store and get a thick sheet of gasket material (similar to the double gasket idea) and make my own custom gasket, so when I torque it down it will compensate for any differences in thickness, and while it won't provide a permanent fix, I think it should last until I can afford a proper fix (or even a carter style carb. Aren't those like the weber or Holley carbs now?). Do you think this would be a plausible temporary fix?
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Re: 1966 c20
Hello Hantke,
Were it mine, I'd follow FetchMeAPepsi's advice to find out where the leak is (or where the leaks are). Then you can solve the problem (or problems), rather than just trying a lot of potential hopeful solutions. If the carb is leaking at the gasketed joint, I'd set each part on a cast iron table saw table (or similar flat surface) to see how much it is warped. If it is warped a lot, it's likely to leak regardless of gasket thickness. If it's warped a little, a standard new gasket might work, though you will still probably get some leakage and orange varnish build up on the carb's outside. You rebuilt your carb so you can do just about anything: way to go. See if you can discover where it leaks and keep us posted. I'll work from this end and try to keep Minnesota's recent chill away from Texas for a while. No point in freezing your fingers while fooling with carburetors. Regards and Good luck, Culver |
Re: 1966 c20
I found the leak, it's along the front of the gasket under the fuel filter, I would have to remove some of the parts that I can't remove, but I will see if my friend can let me use one of his mill tables, it's a work thing so it's a 50/50 shot, i would much prefer it to be done right, it just runs me back to the whole money issue. I'm thinking I might take some of the sand paper wheels (the ones with the flaps) and run it along the mating surface before I check the edge, I think that would work well, and I can probably run an engineers straight edge and adjust from there. Lots of ideas! I'm actually in Oregon, so no worries on freezing here! And I got permission to use my works shop space and what not (yay heated shop!). When I get back home I'll tear into it again and see what I can do! I'll keep this thread up to date with prepress and what I did, and what works (or what did work, if I have to).
Thank you guys for the info! -Hantke Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: 1966 c20
A flapdisk might be too aggressive for aluminum and you'll wear down creases and holes very fast. If you want to smooth it with sandpaper (not a bad idea!) just go slow with your hand and smooth it down. It shouldn't be too far off anyway, just enough to gap. Are there any screws nearby that you can tighten?
Don't get too aggressive with them too because if they're like mine they are aluminum and they'll break, but you can tighten them down a little more than snug without worry. |
1966 c20
I was going to get a really high grit flap disk, similar to the ones I used for rebuilding CAT Diesel engines, with a low RPM dremel it's really not too much more aggressive then using my hand, and since I just got out of a cast and finished PT it's still kind of rough to sand stuff unfortunately, but I've got plenty of 400-800-1200 grit kicking around that i could use!
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Re: 1966 c20
So I got bored and tore into it again. Spent hours custom cutting my own cork gasket with sub par tools and got 'er done. Still leaked, so I added 3 rubber washers to the fuel filter and it stopped having issues entirely. Now I can turn the key, and it starts! After disconnecting the choke cable, I noticed that when I put it on full choke and let it heat up on its own it will slowly open the choke (presumably the spring is unraveling? Perhaps it's just luck and vibrations?).
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Re: 1966 c20
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Re: 1966 c20
So I finally got around to pressure washing, it looks a **** of a lot better than I expected!
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