Re: Clutch slave spring mount
 

Yes. We all know.

Thanks Jim. Squeezed in a quick ride after cleaning up the travel last night; left a tiny bit of play so the throughout is not engaged at the rest position but it’s 100 percent better. Going to get some miles under the belt and may try to tighten it up a bit more so the slave reaches the snap ring while under load.

Re: Clutch slave spring mount
 

Ken: We have bled the system everyway we can and do it every time we start over trying to get enough travel to release the pressure plate while trying to leave free play for the throw out bearing.
Do you have a special or favorite technique?
Thanks

Re: Clutch slave spring mount
 

We finally found a sweet spot yesterday where the two necessary settings exist. It is a small one and perhaps fragile, but works.
Even though I have owned this truck for over fifty years and have never had anyone work on any part of it, I have a feeling that the interior clutch linkage is not stock.
As it is, the upper control rod runs out of threads long before it pushes the master piston half way in or less. I have a 1" extension on the end (inside the piston) that barely gives enough movement.
What would be helpful is if any of you have the opportunity to look at the geometry
of the clutch pedal arm and the control rod arm. Mine seem almost parallel. This means the rod starts movement forward too far back to reach the master cylinder.
If it is supposed to be maybe 30 degrees or more advanced of the pedal arm. it might work better.
The clamp system for the right end ( the control rod end) is not worn and clamps tightly. The other end of the connecting shaft (pedal end) has a weird fresh looking welded blob making the position. Fresh looking as in fifty years!
This is convoluted post, but if makes sense, please let me know your ideas.

Re: Clutch slave spring mount
 

It looks like that was the problem and a modified top control rod clamp seems to have made the fragile fix solid.
Details on request.

Re: Clutch slave spring mount
 

I learned yesterday that the counterweights on the internal clutch levers/fingers are to increase the pressure plate squeeze on the disc at higher RPM's. They work centrifugally.
Here is an interesting discussion on a good website:
https://ramclutches.com/clutch-university-chapter-2/

With the trouble I have had in getting free play at the t/o bearing, I wonder if this action will reduce it.