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-   -   1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy) (https://6066gmcclub.com/showthread.php?t=47321)

FetchMeAPepsi January 27th, 2013 01:05 AM

1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Here we go guys - and my kids will be here so please remember that in the comments and keep them G rated - This is Cecilia. She is named after the old Simon and Garfunkel song that I only knew the chorus to at the time.
Don't google it. The rest of the song isn't really for all audiences :lol:


"Cecilia, you're breaking my heart! You're shakin' my confidence daily!"






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The name came to me as I was trying to get her started and the song kept playing through my head. And it kinda fits. We've been trying it out for a while now. It "feels" right.


Previous owner said everything was original except for a little mud in the corners and the turn signal, which broke on him and he couldn't find a replacement. It has an alternator too, but I didn't have the heart to tell the old timer that they came with generators. And I don't mind, thought I'd kinda like to have a generator some day.


These pix are a bit newer because she has her fenders off. They were removed prior to transport.
I'll have pix of that soon. I like to do "step by step" documentation so it'll kinda be like that i guess.








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My youngest driving






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The seat is a style I haven't seen before, though it looks like it has been clipped to the springs since heck was a pup




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Kids making memories and butt-prints




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Kids driving and playing "What's this lever/button/knob do?"




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Eating apples in the bed. Something about "Cecilia" makes the kids hungry. In the first week we've had snacks on her five times, lunch three times, and dinner twice. Wife wasn't home :lol:




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This is one of my best little helpers and the most ardent supporter of my buying Cecilia. I think she's angling for an inheritance.




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My plan right now is just to get her up and running well. Today was bolting the cowling corner back on, airing the tires and moving her to the backyard so I can work in private. I'd like to paint her back to the original color too but any talk of paint and the kids get all weepy eyed. They're patina fans and I haven't even talked to them about "patinas". They just like the look. We'll see how that goes. I also want to add PS because she's a longstepper and she turns on a half dollar. Whew!

This might end up going anywhere by the time it's over. Flames and a flux capaciter anyone?



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With my hip being what it is my oldest helper volunteered to air all four tires for me so i don't have to get up and down. And she hates getting dirty. She's a peach.






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This weekend is a carb rebuild and a general cleaning. Perhaps some brillo on that crappy rattle can primer.


Next weekend I'll replace that passenger window and work on getting the original AM radio with the letters GMC on it running. If you're working on these old trucks and haven't sampled the same music the guys that built it were listening to...well, you're missing out! :metal:


Funny story, right now while we tinker with her we're piping an old record out the window, "K-Tel's Looney Tunes, 24 Great Hilarious Songs"




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Our Playlist:


Code:

"They're Coming to Take Me Away" by Jerry Samuels aka Napoleon XIV
 "Along Came Jones by The Coasters
 "Hello Mudduh, Hello Fadduh!" by Alan Sherman
 "The Bird's the Word" by The Rivingtons
 "Kookie, Kookie (Lend Me Your Comb)" by Edward Byrnes
 "The Witch Doctor" by David Seville
 "Baby Sittn' Boogie" by Buzz Clifford
 "Transfusion" by Nervous Norvus
 "Little Eeefin Annie" by Joe Perkins
 "Haunted House" by Jumpin Gene Simons
 "My Boomerang Won't Come Back", by Charlie Drake
 "The Streak" by Ray Stevens
 "Rubber Duckie" by Harv Norman
 "Tip-Toe Through The Tulips With Me" by Tiny Tim
 "Charlie Brown" by The Coasters
 "Ape Call" by Nervous Norvus
 "Shaving Cream" by The Hustlers
 "Papa-Oom-Mow-Mow" by The Rivingtons
 "My Old Man's a Dustman" by Lonnie Donegan
 "Little Red Riding Hood" by Sam The Sham & The Pharoahs
 "Dinner With Drac" by John Zacherie
 "I Love Onions" by Susan Christie
 "Mother-in-Law" by Ernie K-Doe
 "Chipmonk Song" by David Seville and The Chipmunks

Now if that doesn't make you scratch your head and slap the closest person to you I don't know what will.




We did finally get her running enough to move to the back but I ran outta gas midway through the gate. :lol: It's a good thing these great old trucks can bump forward with the starter if necessary. The gas tank was covered by the fence.

5 gallons of pure gas (no ethanol) later and she was running-ish again. At least enough to backed her into her new home. She runs like a one legged duck.

She still has the original 305 V6 engine in her too. The cool thing about that is that by modern numbers it puts out 175hp & 388 ft/lbs of torque and back then it was only rated at 142hp & 260 ft/lbs of torque. They rated hp and torque different back then which explains the difference in the numbers.
Oh and it weighs 840 lbs! That's just the engine!




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BarryGMC January 27th, 2013 01:21 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Way cool, good to see the help. My oldest "17" going on smarter than me wants My 60. She may some day

FetchMeAPepsi January 27th, 2013 02:13 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryGMC (Post 47531)
Way cool, good to see the help. My oldest "17" going on smarter than me wants My 60. She may some day

thanks! My teen is just hitting that stage. She's 16 now and getting a little free with the 'whatever's. I have to whack that mole from time to time to keep her in place. Thank goodness she's a good kid. If that's the worst we ever have I'll be a happy man.

I'll probably still have to kill the first two boys that come sniffin around and put their heads on spikes in the yard, but that's part of the territory.

FetchMeAPepsi January 27th, 2013 02:14 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
More pix -





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Dual original visors :)



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And the damaged pass side. I'm going to bang around on it some, but am not entirely against buying a replacement.


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FetchMeAPepsi January 27th, 2013 02:16 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Have any of you seen a seat like this? This is the first one I've seen. The orig owner said it was all stock but I've never seen one in an ad or a build or anything.

FetchMeAPepsi January 27th, 2013 02:47 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Click any of the links to see larger pictures.
I'm very lucky to have these little curtain climbers. This is a great opportunity to get them outside with their dad. :)



My future wrench turner trying the seat out



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Lunch on the tailgate with my son. It doesn't get any better than this.



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My son and my "powder puff mechanic" taking turns. The seat is like a trampoline due to it's age.



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My powder puff mechanic posing with my busted up old tailgate.



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My oldest trying out the wheel. "What's this other pedal for?" Ha ha



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And finally the carnivorous Cecilia and my powder puff mechanic being a ham. This is now my avatar with her yelling "HELP" in a word bubble.



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FetchMeAPepsi January 28th, 2013 03:47 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
I like to keep records and how-tos so that's how most of my updates will be formatted. Hopefully it helps someone, if not it'll help me if and when I start another project.

And it helps to troubleshoot my many, many mistakes when I know the road I've been down.

So without further adeu, a carb rebuild is in order for my baby Cecilia.

FetchMeAPepsi January 28th, 2013 03:57 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Cecilia's going to be a daily driver one day so the first job on the table is making her more reliable. Right now she runs like a one legged duck on a whack-a-mole table. I started with a carb (carburetor) rebuild. I'm sure it's the wrong thing to do. Most of the things I choose to do are probably wrong. I've learned to live with it :D


My carb is still the original Stromberg WW model. I plan to upgrade to a Holley 4410c 500 CFM eventually, but I want to have everything else running smoothly before that happens. So I bought a GP Sorenson Carb Kit from Autozone for $37.99. The part number is 96-574.



The carb kit does NOT come with a float, in fact the computer told the little guy at Autozone that this carb doesn't need a float. He was like, "Ok, now this computer is just flat out lying to me." Points for the parts guy having a sense of humor :)



I got my kit home and waited until the weekend when I'd have someone watching my youngest and I could draft my main helper for photography duty.


Saturday it was bacon, eggs, biscuits and gravy, pain killers for the hip, and then off to Cecilia with my child number 2 in tow.


For this project I needed:
(sorry for the metric, someone stole my standard wrenches just a week ago. A pox on their house!)
  • 12 MM wrench
  • 13 MM wrench
  • 15 MM wrench
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Carburetor cleaner or dip (dip preferred! 27.90 @ Autozone)
  • 2 or 3 old towels
  • About 4-6 hours. I did mine over two days and 8 hours to allow the JB Weld to cure.
As you can see I have the old style oil bath air cleaner. It'll be cleaned too by the time this is over. Start by removing the wing nut on the top of it.


Click any of these images to see a larger version.







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I always just set the nut on top of the air cleaner so I don't lose it. This won't work if you don't put the air cleaner in a safe place though. Watch for gremlins stealing those wingnuts. They're like candy to them.




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Then just lift the entire air cleaner away. OOOh, Ahhhh!




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Next we remove the gas line. If your large brass connection isn't very tight then you'll need to use two wrenches to remove the smaller brass fitting, with one holding the large fitting stationary while the small one turns. I'm using a 15mm and a 13mm shown here.


There *could* be a screen in here so be careful. Mind did not have one. Gremlins, I tell you.




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Now unhook the large spring. I don't know all of the official terms for everything so we'll call this the Large Throttle Spring Of Doom. Be careful because it is under tension. Tension is what gives it a hunger for blood.




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Then pull free the linkage (metal bar) that the Large Throttle Spring Of Doom was hooked into.




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At this point I reached around the back of the carb to remove the brass fitting that runs to the vacuum advance. Here I'm using a 12 open ended wrench.




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Now come back to the throttle linkage. Unscrew the top screw just a couple of turns. This screw holds the wire that's poked through underneath it. We're just wanting it to let go of the wire, we're not trying to remove the screw.




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There's another screw that we need to loosen directly behind the one we just did. There's a nut on the back end of it (indicated by my ugly finger) so don't unscrew it too much or you'll be chasing it down a spark plug hole.
Just unscrew it a couple of turns and disconnect the cable by pulling it out to the side.





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Here's me pulling it to the side. I bet you're glad you saw this. You're so well informed.




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Now pull the little wire free from the top. It MAY be bent around to help hold it in place. If so just unbend it. It doesn't need to be bent if your screw is tightened properly anyway. Leave it straight. Straight is how God intended.




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Congrats! At this point we've removed all of the "stuff" hooked to the carburetor! Pat yourself on the back - well, no. Your hand is filthy. What's wrong with you? Born in a barn? Ask someone else to pat you on the back. That will also give you the opportunity to tell them how manly and tough you are for making it this far.
Ohhh Yeahhh!!




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Ok, back to work, Superman. You've only got four nuts left and you're in the clear!


I'm using a 15mm wrench to remove these. DO NOT DROP THE NUTS. They're very difficult to fish out of the spark plug holes. Where Gremlins live. And they bite.


Remove the nut located here:




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And here (don't mind my Photographer in the background):




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Then here:




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And finally here, under all that spaghetti we just took loose.




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My carb had lock washers, but only on the front two bolts. Again, do NOT DROP THESE or you'll have a heck of a time fishing for them in spark plug holes. Don't believe me? Go ahead Mr. Know it all. Drop one. I double DOG dare ya!




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Now just lift the entire carb up and off!
You'll be left with this.




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Eww. That's anticlimactic.


Here's what it looks like with the bottom plate removed. You can see how tall the lip is without the plate. Now is a good time to poke a clean(ish) rag in the intake hole so you don't drop crud down there and ruin your engine.









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My bottom plate had this really cool homemade gasket on it. It was made from what I assume was the box that the previous carb repair kit came in. It looked about like a cereal box only much thinner. They just tore off a piece and mashed it on the bolts. There were little bits of superthin cardboard everywhere.




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I pulled off most of the cardboard but several pieces were pretty stuck. They'll come off in the dip though.


With the carb removed and placed on these very manly pink and turquoise towels that my wife donated to my project, we'll get back to the dissassembly by straightening and removing the cotter pin shown at the top of the remaining linkage.


Sort of...My photographer had a hard time fixing the shot in the bright sunlight. :)




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These cotter pins were very thin so bending them with a thumbnail was no trouble. Now we remove the lower cotter pin.




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Remove the final bit of linkage.




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Now we remove the riser off of the "air horn", which is a fancy way of saying the top tube off of the carb. This screw has a nut on the other end, but it's clamped in there. You shouldn't be able to lose it, but don't try really hard just in case.




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Now just remove the riser by pulling it straight up.




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FetchMeAPepsi January 28th, 2013 04:01 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Then look at what's left. You have three main parts of the carb standing in front of you. The air horn on top, then the main body and finally the bottom part, which I forget the name of right now. We'll call it "the bottom plate" for now. My helper said we should just call it "Bob".


Remove the screws connecting the air horn to the main body. They're located here:




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and here. This one also releases the brace that the throttle cable connected to. Don't lose them, store them together.




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Then here...




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And here...




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on to here...




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Then here, and this one's kinda hidden so pay attention :)




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There are two long springy plungers under the main body so as you pick it up be careful to come out pretty straight and hold it over something like my awesomely manly pink and turquoise towel (mentioned earlier). You never know when stuff will fall out. If it does, don't sweat. We'll show you where it goes later.


Lift the air horn off of the main body.





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Be careful with the next portion. There's a little BB (yes, like you'd shoot in a BB gun) rolling around in two parts of the carb. The first part is right under this spring, which you might need to fish out with a screwdriver.




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Now pour out the BB into your hand slowly so it doesn't jump out and run off.




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Here's a pic of everything we have done so far, with screws in the order they were removed, left to right...




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Here it started getting HOT under that boiling sun. We had to set up a little tent shade from Cecilia's cover. It worked OK for the time being.




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Our shelter set up, we continued by removing these little needles. There are two of them.





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Now remove the cotter pin from the pump piston if you have one on it. Mine didn't. Say it with me now....Gremlins!




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Mine also had a washer on the top of it with a spring poking through the hole. I'm 99% sure that was NOT factory rigging. When we rebuild we'll leave both the spring and the extra washer off. It's not pictured in my manual at all.


Unless that breaks something. Then we'll just make it ugly again.





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Here my expensive internet downloaded carb manual said to - and I kid you not - take a block of wood and a small wrench to pry out the vacuum piston pump (the second springy thing, located in the center of the carb). I thought, well that's weird. But if you say so...


My vacuum piston was stamped in and no amount of gently tugging would pull it loose. So I obliged it as directed and sent the top flying off into the sunset. DO NOT DO THIS, though it made a beautiful SPROING noise.


I found out later you don't even need to remove the vacuum piston as there isn't anything you need to replace in there. UGH.





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Oh, and of course you can't buy this part for anything. Instead I had to get a magnet and fish the yard for the cap then I JB Welded it back together. It'll disintegrate over time in the gas but I plan to replace it anyway so no sweat there. It just has to work for a few weeks.




Anyway, lesson learned. Fun stuff keeps the boredom away, right? :D




So moving on, we remove this big screw holding the throttle cable connections. Be careful though, there's a tiny spring on the back of the connections (shown below)




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You only need to unhook one side of the spring, the side that hooks to the carb. The other side should be stuck on due to a pinch in the linkage. Just gently remove the whole thing and set it aside. We'll dip the entire thing as a family project.


Next remove the brass fitting on the outside of the carb where the gas went in. My photographer had a potty/lunch break and took my camera so no pix. It's pretty easy though. Just unscrew it with a wrench and pull out the little rocketship looking pin inside by unhooking it from the float with a screwdriver.


Then use the same screwdriver to unhitch the metal pin on the float side of the carb holding the back of the float in. It'll spring off by itself if you're not careful so put a hand over it as you pop it loose.
Then remove the float and it's little pin that holds it in place.


Here's a pic of the stuff we've removed so far, in order from left to right, in rows top to bottom.



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Now find some small wire to clean out the pins. Don't laugh, I have some of the wife's flower arrangement wire here. It works. Shut up. :P




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There are four more holes to clear while you're at it. The two inner ones are inside the smooth walls. You might have to hunt around for them. The outer ones are the big boobie looking nubs sticking up.




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Now grab the trusty screwdriver again and remove this center piece. There is another even smaller BB under this so be careful.




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Again, be careful when you remove it...There's another BB under it.




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Then pour out the little BB inside.




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Now flip the whole thing over and take off the bottom big screws. These cover your jets. We won't be removing the jets this time but we will clean them out with the wire. Removal is unnecessary.




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Under those big screws is two very dirty, probably invisible copper washers. Remove them and set them aside in case your new ones break when installing. Then clean the jets inside with the wire.






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Now remove the vacuum brass fitting on the outside of the carb.






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Now we begin removing the four little screws on the very bottom. These hold on "the bottom plate", or Bob if you prefer.


They're located here...







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And here






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And here...






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And finally here.






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FetchMeAPepsi January 29th, 2013 07:26 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
After that just lift off "the bottom plate" and set it aside. This completes the disassembly portion of our show!







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You can now start cleaning your parts! Grab a wipe-off towel and it better be a big one because you'll have almost a full towel of funk.


I took the air horn and dipped in the dip for 20 mins. The instructions say 15-30 mins. 20 mins seemed ok. Here's a before and after. I did have to dip the main body for two 30 min rounds though (not shown).







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Now it's safe to reattach the top back on the air horn. There is no replacement gasket in your bundle so treat it carefully.




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Continue dipping parts, wiping them, and putting them back in their order. Set a timer so you get a reminder and keep parts moving through the dip. A simple egg timer that you steal from the kitchen is perfect. Buy her another one though because it's going to get nasty.


While that's happening we can open some plastic. Yummy fresh parts.







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This is part of what all you'll replace from the first package.






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You'll also replace these parts...






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And here's the old ugly ones.






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Next open up your new piston assembly. There's a bit of cardboard on the end of it - don't remove that until we're ready to put it back inside the carb.






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The old parts...






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Reassembly will commence tomorrow after the JB Weld dries

FetchMeAPepsi January 29th, 2013 07:29 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
You'll also have alot of gaskets in the kit but don't worry about them just yet.

Keep putting parts in the dip and don't forget to save a big piece to put in on top of the float because....wait for it....











It floats. :D


And keep toweling them off as they come out. Once they're all dipped, it's time to start the rebuild.

Screw this screw in. It's the one with the little pin coming out of the top.




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Then put this screw and cover in. Remember that there's a little tiny BB under it. Don't forget that!




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Then put the vacuum fitting back on. There is no washer or anything for it.




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Then put the pin back in the float and drop it back in.



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Don't forget your new keeper pin!



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Use your screwdriver to gently work it back up under the lip that holds it in place.



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Then put your little rocket ship piece (I think it's called a needle valve) back in and use the included keeper wire to hold it to the float again.




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Bend the end of it around with the screwdriver to make sure it stays put.




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Now you can install the fancy new fuel fitting. I later found out this fitting didn't fit my gas line and had to revert to the old fitting. Never throw anything away until you finish!




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The float shouldn't need adjusting, but it's a good idea to do so anyway. Flip it over and make sure that with the float hanging upside down (dangling) that it closes the little rocket ship into your new fuel fitting. If it doesn't close it off then you need to bend the arm on the float so that it does.


Flip the main body over now and find a gasket that looks like it fits.




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Then get your screws to bolt "Bob" back on. Two fat screws go in the middle.




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Two thinner screws go on the outside.





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Put your jet covers back on, remember your new shiny copper gaskets!




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Grab the "air horn" (top of the carb) and your fuel piston pump. Poke one through the other.



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Pop a cotter pin through it.




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Put the stupid vacuum pump piston that I broke and JB Welded in. That I hate. Stupid part. Grr.




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Put these pins back in. Remember that there are two.




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Fnd our larger BB and drop it in the fuel pump piston hole.




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Drop the spring back in. Boioioingggg!




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FetchMeAPepsi January 30th, 2013 12:53 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Go through your gaskets and find one that fits.




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Get your air horn again and pull the cardboard piece off of the fuel piston.




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Fit the gasket over the pistons.




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FetchMeAPepsi January 30th, 2013 12:53 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Put the air horn back on the main body. Try to keep the gasket lined up. If you can rock it forward and backward like a hobby horse then it's likely hanging up on those needles we put in. You should be able to wiggle it gently and get it to seat properly.




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Then start putting your screws back in the air horn. I like to put them all in then tighten them like you do a wheel, going from one side to the other so they seat as flat as possible. Does it matter? Probably not.

I tighten them just enough to start really pinching the gasket tight.

The first screw we do has that accelerator cable tie-down. Don't forget it like I did. That's why it isn't shown in the second pic. Whoops!



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For this one make sure the little brass plate is pointing up so the next owner isn't swearing at you :D




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Your air horn is now attached! Let's do the spaghetti.

FetchMeAPepsi January 30th, 2013 12:55 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Grab your wrench looking piece of linkage and hook the wrench portion on the bottom of the carb.




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Then hook the little spring on the back up and run the screw through it. Don't tighten it.




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Here's a side view so you can see. You need to make sure the wrench shaped linkage is hanging on the screw you just ran in, not butted up to the carb. THEN start screwing it down. It should move freely once you get it screwed down.




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Put the link that looks like an "S" through the bottom part




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Then the top.




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And cotter key them both.




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Now find a gasket to fit the bottom of "the bottom plate". This one obviously belongs in an art bucket at a pre-school. It doesn't fit. I have to say that for legal reasons so you don't try to use it and cause a thermo-nuclear reaction in your intake manifold.




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FetchMeAPepsi January 31st, 2013 04:15 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
This one looks better.




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The block goes on top of that gasket.




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Then another gasket to seal it to the intake manifold.




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Now flip it back to where you can see the mixture screws pictured below. There are two, one on each side of the float bowl.


Put your screwdriver in one of them and hold it very loosely. This is so that you can tell when it gets lightly seated (snug, not tight!). Now turn it clockwise and COUNT the turns, quarter turns, or half turns etc. as you tighten them. REMEMBER THIS NUMBER. Write it down if you need to.

(This picture was taken after remounting b/c I forgot to reset them myself while it was off)


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Once they're very lightly snug you now need to back them out again to set them. I was talking to an old timer about it and he said this:


Gently seat the Idle Mixture Screws again like you did before (tighten them till they're just barely seated). Now unscrew them two full turns. Start the engine and make sure the choke is wide open. Turn each screw in 1/2 turn at a time until the engine rpm starts to drop. Then back them both out equally until you reach the highest rpms possible. LEAVE THEM THERE.

Idle Screw: Now just adjust the idle screw (by the spaghetti near the choke cable) till it's where you want the RPMs to be. That's it. Purrs like a kitten.


I'd trade the entire internet for a handful of old timers with great stories.




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That is how they should be set for life. Forget they exist now. Unless it runs like crap afterward, then go back to what they were and see if that fixes it. You remember what they were, right? You wrote it down.
I just know you did.


:D



At this point we can move back to the engine bay. The end is in sight!
Remove the rag you put in the intake now. Be sure to jerk it straight up so as not to knock something off of your dirty engine into the intake.




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Then place your first gasket, your block (if you have one), and your second gasket (again, if you had a block) on the bolts and line them up.




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Set the carb down on it's new perch.




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FetchMeAPepsi January 31st, 2013 04:17 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
I forgot to dip my nuts and lock washers so I did that now. 10 mins in the drink!




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Then it's on the carb mounts. Again I like to tighten them opposite, like a wheel. I tighten them good and snug again. Not tight, just snug enough to pinch the gasket.




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Then attach the throttle cable to the top and tighten the screw.




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Attach the rear clamp and tighten. Remember it has that little nut on the underside so don't unscrew it much.




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Connect the large spring to the linkage shown.




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Hook up the fuel line.




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And finally fire it up and see if it runs. It has zero gas in the float bowl so remember that it might not start quickly the first time.
After you get it to fire up it should start easily after that.


If it runs put the air cleaner back on it. My photographer had a problem with the loud motor running so it's a little off center lol.




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A little note about the air cleaner. I had intended to clean it as well but I ran out of weekend and painkillers so it got pushed back to next weekend. Sorry about that :(



If all went well the last step is to take the kiddos and the ugly mutt for a spin around the block!




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Congrats, you just rebuilt a carburetor!


If you noticed something I did and shouldn't have done, or missed doing entirely, speak up! This was my first carb rebuild. I enjoyed it quite a bit.

My only issues after mounting were gas coming out of the carb piston hole and a rough idle, both of which were fixed by adjusting the float then adjusting fuel mixture screws as described earlier. My mixture screws were an entire revolution off.

BarryGMC January 31st, 2013 05:24 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Good job. Carbs are not to hard. Old rig people should all learn about the carbs in their rigs it saves a lot of trouble. BTW get an extra fuel pump and carb kit, and if you can find one a float. The floats sometimes crack after 50 years. Put this in your goodie box so when your on the sunday drive you can deal with the problems that can occur. Barry C.

FetchMeAPepsi February 1st, 2013 01:11 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
I thought about buying another 1 since they were so cheap. i should do that before they just stop selling them altogether i guess. good tip!

FetchMeAPepsi February 1st, 2013 01:16 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Had a couple of spare keys made today.


The kid at Ace Hardware couldn't figure out which blank to use. Only one key on the rack looked like mine so I pointed at that one and said, "Maybe that one?"
He gave me that "I know what I'm doing" look and kept looking through the blanks.

He then grabbed a key from some truck in the 80's or late 70's and said, "Lets try this."
It looked nothing like my key. Did it work?
Nope.

So being an intelligent man of many months of keymaking experience and whatever knowledge he gleaned from his day job as a high school student, he proceeded to pull out his IPhone and said, "Siri, what is the key blank for a 1962 GMC K1000?"




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Siri told him "B10".

He hung up on her (or ended her, whatever) and grabbed the key blank I had originally pointed to and said, "Well, I guess this is it."




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Worked perfectly.

:D

FetchMeAPepsi February 1st, 2013 01:40 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Rear Stepside Fender Removal


This was pretty straightforward. I talked to a guy that supposedly knew "everything" about old trucks (he was probably 25 yrs old lol) and he swore that the bolts were welded in after being run into nuts that were welded to the frame.


Doesn't look welded:



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Being of the hard-headed tight-wadded Scottish variety I grabbed an oversized Phillips and gave it a quick spin. It complied after just a little effort. Harumph! Turns out they're just fancy Phillips head screws with regular washers on the back side, followed by a lock washer, and finally a regular run of the mill nut. Oh, and rust. LOTS of rust.


Since I have to de-dent them and paint them anyway I decided to remove them. Here's a breakdown of the entire process start to finish.



Tools you will need:
  • About 12 hours of time, give or take an hour. Better allow a whole weekend.
  • Two hands
  • Can of PB Blaster
  • Ratchet
  • One deep well 1/2 socket
  • One shallow well 1/2 socket
  • One standard hammer
  • One pair of vice grips
  • One more person if you're lucky (not required)
  • A beautiful wife to bring you drinks when it's 108 degrees outside
  • and Gloves if you're a leetle girly man






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We're going to PUMP you UP!!!


First off, these are kinda heavy and the rusted bolts can be daunting, but honestly I've got a bad back, a busted hip, and I weigh a buck 75 after a big meal so if I can get these off so can you. I promise.
Just glom on to it and get started!


First you get it through your thick head that you're not going to save all of these precious, fantastically patina'd old bolts. I really wanted to. I so wanted to. I spent nights dreaming about a perfect period specific phillips head bed bolts. I even bought

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for EIGHTY hard earned bux in order to get them out.
However reality has a way of kicking you in the face when you want something too much.





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Note the beautifully rounded out hole. :(


If I had it to do again and owned the tools I'd have simply cut all of the bolts off and been done with it inside of an hour. Instead I'm a poor boy with few tools and even less brains. So here's how I did it.


Beginning the night before you should take your can of PB Blaster (or similar spray) and really hose each bolt down well on both sides of the bolt. There are 18 bolts for each fender if you include the bumper to fender bolts. Hit them all really well.




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Be sure to spray both sides of the places where the bumper bolts to the fender too. Those suckers sit in sand, rain, snow, salt, etc. and probably will bust in two when you put any torque on them if you're lucky. If not prepare to lose some skin.




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Once that's done take your hammer and give six or seven light taps (just the hammer's weight really) on each bolt to set up some fluid movement. Do this before 8pm so you don't make the neighbors mad. No sense in turning them off to your truck before you've had a chance to get them hooked on the beauty of it.



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Then get a good night's sleep. You'll need it.



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The next morning go out there and photograph your baby because she's about to lose her knickers. :eek: Ok, on to the work!


Get your tools laid out beside you within reach. Nothing like needing a socket on the nut only to find that it's 30 ft away and if you move from your current position it'll cause the entire truck to fall over on it's side and end space-time as we know it.



Next take your handy dandy human eating vice grips and clamp them on to the phillips head bolt as hard as you can get them to stick. You'll have to repeat this step several times as they come loose while you're turning the opposing nut.



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If you're lucky enough to have a buddy or one of your offspring helping you, just have them hold the vice grips still for you while you turn the nut on the other side. They can also re-attach them if they come off (if your helper is strong enough. You gotta clamp them down HARD). If you're doing this by yourself you can grab a cinder block and put it in front of the grips so they can't spin very much. It works ok. Sometimes it moves and you scrape a half acre of hide off of your pinkie.




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Then put your trusty socket on the other side and get with it.







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Remember to PUSH or PULL the socket based on what is on the other side of your hand. Don't push if a sharp piece of metal is facing your hand. And don't pull if you're pulling towards a dangerous piece of metal either. Safety keeps you turning wrenches.



I'm using impact wrench sockets because I hate when sockets break off in my hand and I still have work to do. Of course with these being extremely hard, harder than your rusty bolts, you'll end up making some two fisted bolts.




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It happens. :(




Oh, and the little struts don't have washers on them. Only lock nuts.





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Also, I just about never found the screw head for this little sucker. I thought it went into the frame somewhere but it turned out to be another in-the-bed bolt buried under a bunch of walnut husks, dirt, and plywood that the PO (previous owner) had used to cover the rotted bed wood. Tada! (Pic is upside down - sorry for my ugly hand)




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These bumper to fender screw/bolts cost me the most skin. The first one sheared off after the second grunt, the second one on the fifth. Blood and water flowed!




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For the other side I actually had to take a bastard file and file it down. Then I broke it off and pulled it through the hole from the back side with my cheap vice grips. Didn't damage any of the body, but the bumper got a few more scrapes on it. Sadsauce.




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Note this bolt (pictured below) on the bottom side of the fender is backwards to the others. The nut is on the inside (facing the differential) instead of facing the fenderwell.





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Because of these lower ones being backwards, you might have to lie down in the dirt and put the flesh eating vice grips on the inside of the fender. This makes them happy because when they break loose and fall they aim for your eyeballs.






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If you take them off from the rear of the fender to the front of the fender you might find yourself lying on your back turning on that last bolt while you hold the fender up with a foot and pray it doesn't fall on your head. Fun!




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And if everything went well you'll be rewarded with a bolt/nut roundup like this one...(pictured in order of removal)




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...and possibly a glimpse at 50 year old paint that has gone untouched since it was first sprayed on by some 20 year old kid named Buddy. Man, there's nothing like that blue/white two toned color on these classic trucks!




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And as for those cheap vice grips (that weren't cheap to me!), well they quit about halfway through. Even this little shaved bit off the corner made a profound difference in how well they grabbed the bolt heads.




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All in all I came out of it with the knowledge that you pay twice for cheap tools (priceless), 12 hours of my life gone along with about 8 inches of skin and a pair of cheap vice grips. Speaking of which, why do they create vice grips and infuse in them a thirst for human flesh? Not funny, Stanley, Craftsman, et al. Not funny at all!

George Bongert February 1st, 2013 04:18 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Greetings, Fetch me a Pepsi!

Great pix, looks like you've got a nice truck in Cecilia, well worth restoring! Seeing all of those pix, and the songs you mentioned, took me all the way back to the 60's when I was just a teenage lad, and you couldn't go anywhere without seeing one of these old GMC's on the road somewhere. Although those old GMC's don't have all of the bells and whistles that the new ones do, I think I'd prefer the old GMC, when a truck was a truck, and could be used for more than just going to the store to get groceries!

George Bongert
Oshkosh Wisconsin

FetchMeAPepsi February 1st, 2013 08:49 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
You said it George! i get a kick out of these old tunes. they just seem to fit with the truck.

"Please mr custer....I don't wanna go...."
"FORWARD HO!!!"
"no!"

FetchMeAPepsi February 1st, 2013 08:50 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Since we spruced up the carb let's go ahead and knock the crud off the engine while we're at it. Click any pic to see a larger version.

For this task you'll need:
  • 9/16 Wrench
  • Wrench for your battery cables, whatever size they are (this varies widely)
  • Prybar or crowbar to tighten your belt
  • About 20 oz Simple Green. $5 bux at Walmart
  • A plastic bag
  • A zip tie or coat hanger (wire, not plastic)
  • A water hose
  • Um...water
  • About 15 minutes, then about 20 minutes four hours later.



First we'll cover the DO NOT's.

Do NOT do this:


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Or this:




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Or this either:




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Or this, even if you saw it on TV and it wasn't fatal. George is a monkey and he does things you can't do.




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To begin cover your carb intake. Getting simple green in your engine DOES NOT MAKE YOUR ENGINE A HYBRID.





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Then grab your trusty bottle of simple green. Full strength. Mine was confiscated from the wife's laundry room. Dig my stylin flowers and purple top.




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Now thoroughly douse the engine, taking care not to splash the carb, the alternator, or the battery. Spray heavily in the nooks and crannies around the water pump (the thing the huge front fan ties to) and intake manifold (top of the engine under the carb) After even a couple of seconds it looks alot better!




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I only ended up using half the bottle. In half an hour we'll reapply. Don't forget or you'll not get a very good result.




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So wait 1/2 hour and re-spray it again. (redundant?)

Then go have lunch or play monopoly. You have four hours to kill...

Clarke February 2nd, 2013 12:52 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
I'm glad you clarified that bottle came from your wife's laundry room and not your tool cabinet (not that there's anything wrong with that).

FetchMeAPepsi February 2nd, 2013 01:05 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Ha ha Clark yes there is a LOT wrong with that!

FetchMeAPepsi February 2nd, 2013 01:08 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Now it's about 4 hours later. Wait, you didn't wait 4 full hours. Go wait some more. Stop reading...Seriously...







Ok, looks about right to me. Let's move on.

Place the plastic bag over your carburetor (carb). Don't worry, she won't choke. It's just to keep the water from drowning her.




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Then secure it with a coat hanger or in my case this bungee cord.




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And because this task is so easy, have your little helper rearrange all of your newly bought wrenches into a decorative pile on the grass. Then make sure he leaves before putting them back in their proper place. Spend 15 minutes digging them out of the grass and mud and put them back in their holder.




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FetchMeAPepsi February 2nd, 2013 01:19 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
At this point we need to get our hands dirty again. Take your wrenches and remove your battery cables. You don't have to unscrew these bolts all the way. They just need to be loose enough that you can twist the top portion around and squeegle it off of the battery post. Don't beat it with a hammer. That's just stupid.




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Then remove the wires and yank the old crusty thing out like an old tooth. Don't try washing it though. They don't like water. At all.




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Move to the alternator. It has two bolts. If yours is like mine and has been "fixed" you probably have two all-the-way-through bolts so you'll need two 1/2 wrenches to take them off. One for each side. Here I am only showing one side to confuse you.





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We're going to be squirting water all over so don't lay your removed bolts on the fender well like this. They'll end up lost. Put them some place safe and far away.




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BarryGMC February 2nd, 2013 03:08 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Get a power washer!!!! No less than 13hp and 3500psi. Seriously My power washer cost more than most of my trucks and I use it a lot. Plus its one of the few machines my wife loves. Bonus x2....Barry

FetchMeAPepsi February 2nd, 2013 04:24 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Barry its funny you said that I got one for christmas! its not 13 hp and 300 psi though those are way too expensive for me. I got four kids! Maybe i can sell one? Ha ha!

Mine was 24oo psi and 5.5 hp honda motor. I ran it for a minute last week and it blows water all the way across my yard. Im hoping when I finish fiddling with the motor it'll put out close to 3000 psi on jet blaster mode. the motor is set to run really slow frmo the factory.

FetchMeAPepsi February 2nd, 2013 06:28 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
The second bolt is underneath the alternator. I tried to get a pic. Hopefully you can find it. Be careful though, once it's just a little loose the alternator will likely fall over whichever way gravity pulls it. Hold it with one hand to be safe. Just loosen this bolt. Don't take it all the way out yet.




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Once the second bolt is loose you can move the alternator and remove the belt. Just slip it off of the alternator, keeping an eye on where it runs on the other two (or three, or four) pulleys. I just unhooked mine and set it down gently.




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Freed of the belt, we can now unplug our alternator. Just mash on the forward portion of the plastic plug and pull it straight out. It's a simple plug like what you'd see on a computer hard disk in the older days.




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Now you can get to the bottom bolt better to remove it. I used a 9/16 wrench that I found in the grass.




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Then take the nut off of the back. Mine is held in place with a long threaded shaft.




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And a piece of wayward pipe?




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FetchMeAPepsi February 2nd, 2013 06:29 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
All that removed, your alternator should now pull free of the brackets, but it still has one wire so just lift it into the battery tray and disconnect the wire. It takes a 3/8 inch wrench that I forgot to mention earlier in our list of supplies. If you don't have one you can come mow my grass. I have lost several.




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Then remove the wire and let it hang. The nut you removed should be placed back on the alternator so it doesn't get lost. Then put the alternator in a safe, dry place.




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FetchMeAPepsi February 2nd, 2013 06:30 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Ok, now go get the water hose and sprayer and get to spraying. WHOOSH!!!
All of the nooks and greasy crannies!




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Then get the battery tray really good. It looked like cookie monster had eaten dinner in mine. Crust and crumbs everywhere.




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While you're at it, spray the outside black area too.




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And squirt the grasshoppers out of your radiator. Feed them to the cats.




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One more thing. You're bound to notice a little paint coming off. It's likely that this paint was flaky anyway and would fall off by itself. It's not from the simple green, more from the water pressure and lack of oil and grime holding it on anymore. Don't fret. Eventually we'll paint the engine anyway, right? (lofty goals!)




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And you might just get to see little treasures like this that have lived buried in muck for ages.




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or this




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FetchMeAPepsi February 2nd, 2013 06:31 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Once it's good and clean as you like it you can start putting it back together again. A word of wisdom - it won't be spotless. The engine is 50 years old. If you want to get all of the dirt off you'll need to do some serious scrubbing or just dip it in a vat of cleaner. If you just want to knock some more dirt of of her you can repeat this process since you already have the alternator and battery out.

So to put her back together you just go find your alternator and put it back in the battery tray. Be careful not to bang the pulley side around on things or you can damage the windings and/or brushes inside. Be easy with it.

While it's in the battery tray you can re-attach the little wire on the back.




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Then set the alternator back in it's slot and run the long bolt and whatever stuff the PO put in there as a spacer. Remember that the larger bolt hole goes on the bottom, the smaller on the top.




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Now place the top alternator bolt in but don't tighten it just yet. Just run it in there snug.




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Don't forget the plug in the top.




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Then slip the belt back on, making sure it is still on the other pulleys on the engine too.




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Finally just tighten the belt. To do this you put a prybar (a crowbar in this case) between the engine and the alternator, prying it out until the belt is good and tight. Then you tighten the bolt on top. It's a little tough to do both at once but if you stand on the side of the truck and pull with both hands you should make it perfectly tight and keep it there. If you start the truck and it whines you'll know you didn't get it tight enough.




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That's about it. You just washed your first engine. If you can do it, it's a good idea to let it dry for 24 hours before driving just in case you squirted water into the spark plug holes or something.

Now, don't worry if it didn't blind you with sparkly magical powers when you finished. It's not going to - it's 50 years old. You want a sparkly engine? You gotta scrub for that. Alot. My main goal was to kick the crud off so that it looks better and doesn't color me every time I lean over to fiddle with a spark plug wire.

Lessons Learned:
  • You can reapply again and do it again.
  • I want a pressure washer.
  • Dirt is like an ogre. It has layers.
  • Don't expect to strip it all off at once. Baby steps.
  • Scrubbing an engine with paint on it can give you an engine without paint on it.
  • Don't leave a 5 year old boy and a set of shiny new wrenches alone. Ever.

FetchMeAPepsi February 3rd, 2013 01:44 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Now we're going to change the temperature sending unit.

This job happened before the engine cleaning above, so don't freak out about the excessive dirt. It's just out of chronological order.


On Cecilia the factory gauge said COLD regardless of what was going on so I figured it was either dead or needed a new sending unit.

My first thing to do was FIND the sending unit. Yeah, I know! Stupid newbie with his lack of knowledge! I should go die in a hole or something, right?

Instead of dying in a hole I looked for wires that go to funny places under the hood. I knew it had to be on the engine somewhere and that lead me to the first obvious place.

This wire right here!



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And that lead me right to this! It's a sending unit! Woohoo!




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Heck, that wasn't so hard at all. Feeling tough and awesome now I grabbed that wire and yanked it off of the top of the sending unit, cleaned it off, and started Cecilia again. No change. Yep, it's bad.

I left the key in the ON position and had my "powder puff mechanic" in the seat ready to yell if wiggling this wire might cause the needle to jump. But something else happened (stop me if you've heard this already...lol)

The oil light went off.

Yep.


I had found a sending unit, just the wrong one. Nice job eh?


Moving on, I then ran down another wire. This one went from the alternator tangle of wire spaghetti to the top of the engine and....Hey! Isn't that the thermostat right beside this wire? Well - bingo! That made more sense than one on the bottom of the engine after I thought about it.




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So I yanked that nasty old wire off and cleaned it up. Still no good. Time to replace it!

I ran down to NAPA and bought what was recommended for my 305 V6. Napa part number ECH TS6469.

I then removed the wire again:




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And removed the old sending unit. Coolant flowed out of it pretty nicely. And be careful, this is a knucklebuster of an area to turn a wrench.




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Then I carefully screwed the new one in, taking care not to cross thread it.




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Then I realized that the new sending unit has a button top....Hmm....




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David R Leifheit February 3rd, 2013 03:03 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi (Post 47688)
And you might just get to see little treasures like this that have lived buried in muck for ages.




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And with this picture I would like to confirm that your truck did indeed, regardless of the previous owner's assertions, come with a generator.
That is the generator mount. I'd almost guess the alternator pulley isn't perfectly in line with the waterpump and crank pulleys.

Been there, done that. :)

David R Leifheit February 3rd, 2013 03:10 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi (Post 47689)
Once it's good and clean as you like it you can start putting it back together again. A word of wisdom - it won't be spotless. The engine is 50 years old. If you want to get all of the dirt off you'll need to do some serious scrubbing or just dip it in a vat of cleaner. If you just want to knock some more dirt of of her you can repeat this process since you already have the alternator and battery out.

I'm not that careful with a hose. I'd get everything hosed down.
My method *might* be a little bit more extreme.

FetchMeAPepsi February 3rd, 2013 04:45 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by David R Leifheit (Post 47698)
I'm not that careful with a hose. I'd get everything hosed down.
My method *might* be a little bit more extreme.

Aww no fair pulling the motor out lol. Did you do all that with soap and water? It looks great!
Any scrubbing? Pressure washer?

Im worried about getting water in the cylinders or in a gasket somewhere with high power spraying. I might just be paranoid. If you are doing it and didnt havre any problems i might try it this spring.

David R Leifheit February 3rd, 2013 06:10 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi (Post 47701)
Aww no fair pulling the motor out lol. Did you do all that with soap and water? It looks great!
Any scrubbing? Pressure washer?

Im worried about getting water in the cylinders or in a gasket somewhere with high power spraying. I might just be paranoid. If you are doing it and didnt havre any problems i might try it this spring.

Just bought a power washer last year, and did that a couple years ago so it was all mostly soap, water, stiff scrub brush. I've tried a few cleaners, and some are good, but nothing beats scrubbing it.

I don't know if you can really tell from the pictures, but the engine is on the stand *and* has a hoist hooked to it. On the stand alone it kind of started "sagging". Of course leaving the bell housing on it means the weight was out further from the plate, so greater lever arm... physics and gravity works.

I actually didn't pull that engine. I bought the engine ( 351E ) took it apart (it was stuck) cleaned the insides of condensation and surface rust, new gaskets, assembled ... cleaned ... painted ... yanked Chev 350 out of the truck and put the 351 in. Ran it too hard for break-in, head gaskets didn't seat right so it leaks water around the head, water got in the oil and into the crank bearings and it is stuck again. :(
But the truck is a '63 and I acquired a running '63 with the plaid covers that had already been converted to the Holley and electronic distributor. So one day soon... the 351E will be coming back out (and up for sale) and the 305 is going in. One day. Soon. Maybe. <sigh>

BarryGMC February 3rd, 2013 08:30 PM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
I powerwash old stuff all of the time. I use hot water and let er rip. I only seal the distributor and carb. BC

FetchMeAPepsi February 4th, 2013 03:59 AM

Re: 1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by David R Leifheit (Post 47703)
Just bought a power washer last year, and did that a couple years ago so it was all mostly soap, water, stiff scrub brush. I've tried a few cleaners, and some are good, but nothing beats scrubbing it.

I don't know if you can really tell from the pictures, but the engine is on the stand *and* has a hoist hooked to it. On the stand alone it kind of started "sagging". Of course leaving the bell housing on it means the weight was out further from the plate, so greater lever arm... physics and gravity works.

I actually didn't pull that engine. I bought the engine ( 351E ) took it apart (it was stuck) cleaned the insides of condensation and surface rust, new gaskets, assembled ... cleaned ... painted ... yanked Chev 350 out of the truck and put the 351 in. Ran it too hard for break-in, head gaskets didn't seat right so it leaks water around the head, water got in the oil and into the crank bearings and it is stuck again. :(
But the truck is a '63 and I acquired a running '63 with the plaid covers that had already been converted to the Holley and electronic distributor. So one day soon... the 351E will be coming back out (and up for sale) and the 305 is going in. One day. Soon. Maybe. <sigh>

I cant take my motor out right now. I dont have a stand or puller and I'm stove up with a recovering hip, but I'm getting there.
I'll do it eventually. I'm buying tools as I go.
She sure does look pretty painted though. Nice job!!


Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryGMC (Post 47706)
I powerwash old stuff all of the time. I use hot water and let er rip. I only seal the distributor and carb. BC

Maybe I'll give it a shot this spring. I want to eventually do the paint etc. like Davids but that's for another summer.


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