Re: 1966 c20
 

So I got a pretty good deal from performance online and got my new steering gear today, installed, and went for a cruise. Gotta say it doesn't get much better than this! It runs great, turns great, could do a bit better on the brakes, but hey, can't win all the time!
I've noticed be only issue I have is that my idle doesn't smoothly go back down after hitting the gas, it kind of "works" it's way down. Other than that, I should probably increase idle speed a touch (low idle feels kind of rough)'and I should be good to go!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

The slow back down to idle thing happened to me several times. You have some type of air leak somewhere is all I can say. Also some valves being a tad tight will cause that. Best thing to do is plug All the ports off on the carb and if that helps more than likely your PCV is not sealed correctly. Engines hate air leaks...especially 2 stokes.

1966 c20
 

Thanks, I may have missed plugging a vacuum port on the carb, I think I got em all, but I'll double check. I may just need to replace one of the old vacuum hoses as well, and that's pretty simple too.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

I've been extremely busy with finals and now I'm switching jobs, but I adjusted my idle and and got it dialed in and I don't appear to be having any more issues like previously stated, the new steering box is wonderful, and doing great! Now my blinkers work about 50% of the time so I need to get that issue figured out, I've been told to add a ground directly to the frame but I'm not exactly sure where on the wiring I would add that. I'll be looking at a wiring diagram this week / weekend, any ideas?


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Re: 1966 c20
 

you should have a ground from the eng to the body(short one, back of the eng to firewall) and 1 from the frame to the body. make sure that there is good contact
ron

Re: 1966 c20
 

Okay, cool, thanks! I took the ground to the engine off and scrubbed it clean with a wire brush and re installed it, I can't say I've found one from the body to the frame yet thoufh


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Re: 1966 c20
 

I didn't look back in the thread to see what lights are involved, but I can tell you how I fixed my intermittently working signal lights.

The rear lights were poorly grounded because of rust on the screws and in the screw holes that connect the lights assembly to the body (this also affected stop and tail lights), which also provides the ground connection. The front turn signal light sockets needed to be removed and the metal parts cleaned to make good contact. I also used some sandpaper in the hole where the socket fits into the hood. And the metal bulb holder needs to be fully inserted. All lights are now working.

Before doing the above, I had already put in wires between the body and frame to ensure a good ground connection.

These trucks were built tough to handle loads, and the electrical system is not complicated. But electrical components and connections seem to be a weakness, with rust being a major problem.

JRMunn

Re: 1966 c20
 

Awesome, thank you! I pulled that little blinker fuse and it rattles pretty bad, I'm gonna buy a new one and see how it sits, if it's still got issues I'm gonna go through and do all that, probably gonna do it anyways. Thank you!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

So the blinker fuse was indeed the issue, and it's all good now, but I noticed after driving when I shut it off it sounds like running water and I believe it to be fuel. It drained my tank a lot quicker than normal and it believe it to be the cause, the tank isn't leaking and nothing smells like fuel but any insight would be great.

Thank you!


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1966 c20
 

Just an update:
So I have the same persisting fuel issue, 5 gallons at the gas station and I drove home where after two weeks my tank was bone dry again. Still can't figure it out.

On the other hand, I sold my car, and bought a a new-to-me truck. 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 with a 6.6 dura max turbo diesel!



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