Slowing down the rust demons
 

Can't afford a paint job right now, so if I attack any of the rust on my truck right now to stop it, what should I do then to keep it intact/sealed until sometime in the future when a paint job can be addressed?

Re: Slowing down the rust demons
 

go to homedepot and get the gallon sized jug of phosphoric acid used to etch concrete($15), but its the same thing as rust converter. Then get some clear coat whatever finish you like. Or you could use clear lacquer like I did its tougher ,but I think I read it makes painting in the future more difficult. when you apply the acid to the rust areas make sure its saturated and it should turn a darker color. then when dry clear coat. that should at least buy some time.

Re: Slowing down the rust demons
 

Just a heads up make sure you wire wheel it before putting converter on it. If the rust is thick it'll convert the top of the rust and keep on rusting under. Wire wheeling keeps it thin so there's not much thickness to the rust. :)

Re: Slowing down the rust demons
 

I did a lot of wire wheeling, degreasing, and metal prep on my floors. Then gave POR15 a go. I think it turned out good ...for now. When its time to fix things up right and I have learned a lot more, I can go back and cut out the bad spots and propetly patch. For now, on the largest hole, I simply coated a piece of metal with the POR and between coats on the floor, screwed it down, and added another coat to everything. Right of wrong, I think I've stopped my floor pan rust for now. :)

Re: Slowing down the rust demons
 

Speaking of future learning, is this welder suitable for body work? Welder at HF

Re: Slowing down the rust demons
 

Pictures or it didn't happen! :D

The welder link is to the mobile site so it doesnt show up for me. What is the welder called?

Re: Slowing down the rust demons
 

Got a few pics...just not posted ;)
It was their 90 amp flux wire welder. Chicago I think is the brand.

Re: Slowing down the rust demons
 

I bought this exact welder 8 months ago when my MIG welder burned up a transformer. Being it is a flux core type only, it is an ok welder for light use but throws out a lot of spatter, I wouldn't recommend it for any outer sheetmetal repair. Realistically it hard to beat a real MIG welder, spend an extra $100 for the real thing.

Re: Slowing down the rust demons
 

Yeah I agree with BBV6. I hate buying gas (leaving the house, dealing with idiots) or having something where I can't stock it up (convenience, dependability), but if you want a wire welder you won't be happy unless you get a gas one. I've also heard you need 160 amps (140 minimum) so you can use it on more than just the very thin steel, but BBV6 can probably speak to that more than me. The MIG I used was a 240 and it was just borrowed.

On a personal note That flux stuff is the devil. You have to knock it off ever time you run a bead before you make the next pass or tie in to the last run. It triples (or quadruples) your time and probably costs 10x the effort.

For me I use a stick welder for convenience. Same splatter problems, but I can weld from steel girders all the way down to coffee cans and I can stock up enough rods to build a bridge to your house from here :D

Re: Slowing down the rust demons
 

Thanks for the input Fetch and BBV6! I passed on that sale...besides, I am still budgeting for that radiator to get this truck back to driving again. :)