Re: 1966 c20
 

Now to fix the wipers! I've got a bit more work ahead of me... Why did the previous owner have to cut all the wires when he removed stuff? Just tape up the plugs and move it, don't cut the plugs off and leave it there...
Since nobody makes these switches anymore (other than classic truck places) I'm going to need to jimmy rig this until I can afford better. Is anybody here good with wiring? My fuse wire is gone, can I skip it?
I have the black, dark blue, and light blue wires, presumably either on off ground, or power high low. I always assume black = ground so I need to figure out which will work. I'd like to use a simple on / off toggle switch if possible for now.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

I don't know the wiring, but I bet you can do a three way switch to get the high, low, and off running.

She looks great all washed up!

Re: 1966 c20
 

I had assumed mine was a single speed, but now that I think about it, I bet it is a multi speed wiper! I'll have to find some diagrams and see what I can fab up.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

I just got offered a complete 350 V8 W/ automatic transmission for $250 from my girlfriends dad, engine needs a rebuild (bad head gasket so he got coolant in the oil), and I could rebuild it myself given the time and money. Not sure if I want to put a 350 V8 in my C20 or not though, it's a 90's Vortec engine.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Hello Hantke,

Fine looking truck, fresh out of the wash, dressed in patina and standing tall.

You write about, "Skipping the Fuse".

The guy who invented truck wiring thought electrons are like Husky dogs: eager to pull a sled all day on a piece of dried salmon. They're not. More like cats. Hard to herd. They prefer to run for the battery from whence they came. One short between wire and truck metal and they are on their way. They push and shove and get hot under the collar. Hot enough to melt insulation onto your legs, drop sparks into your shoes, and try to celebrate Fourth of July early. (Don't ask me how I know about this: I'm too busy trying to get the hardened vinyl out of my jeans.)

Fuses discourage this behavior. A fuse on each circuit makes life more enjoyable when a short somewhere drains the battery overnight: pull the fuses until the problem circuit is found and the search for trouble is reduced to a few feet of wire.

Fusing a circuit costs me a few minutes and a couple of dollars. I saves me a half an hour of taking various names in vain and gives me more truck driving time. I'm a fuse fan.

Regards and Enjoy that truck,

Culver

Re: 1966 c20
 

I don't particularly want to skip having fuses, but I needed the wipers to work for the weekend, and I'm not entirely sure that then fuse panel is even wires correctly. There are so many cut wires and missing pieces and parts (presumably from when it was swapped from a 327 to a 250) that I'm a bit lost.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Alot of those 90s vortecs have 300k miles on them now. I'd take it if for no other reason than putting it in the garage for a future project. :thumbsup:

Re: 1966 c20
 

I can't store it in a garage right now, it would be in the back of the pickup because I don't have a cherry picker! Lol! Th engine had 220K on it before he replaced all the wrong parts and it blew on him. Simple rebuild should do the trick!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Hello Hantke,

The bigger the current electrical mess--the greater the opportunity (and incentive) to re-do things better.

Good background info can be found at:

M.A.D. Enterprises
P.O. Box 675
Springville, CA 93265
(559) 539-7128


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Their tech. info, "CHEVY Main Electrical Power System 1963 thru 1971 Chevy" gets you started and has a photo of the Horn Relay Buss Bar.

For quick and dirty wiring the windshield wipers, when you don't know how the fuse box is wired, you can connect Windshield Wipers Power Lead to the Horn Relay Buss Bar--with an inline fuse installed in your Windshield Wipers Power Lead close to the Horn Relay Buss Bar. Follow M.A.D. Enterprises' advice about clean, tight connectors. This is quick and dirty wiring because the Horn Relay Buss Bar is powered whenever the battery is connected--leave the wipers on and the battery drains even though the ignition switch is off--not good. Now you have fused power to your Windshield Wipers Power Lead. Install a switch in the Windshield Wipers Power Lead. To get you through the weekend, almost any switch will do. If you have a 2-speed wiper motor and your switch only handles a 1-speed, pick the one speed that makes you happiest--this is quick and dirty, as in temporary. Connect the switch to Windshield Wipers Power Lead and Windshield Motor. Connect Windshield Motor to Ground. Truck manufacturers call sheet metal Ground. Trucks older than a couple of years don't. Spend your weekend enjoying your windshield wipers, not cleaning sheet metal to frame and frame to battery rust. (Take a few minutes to install a copper ground wire to the bolt securing your battery ground wire to your starter, or something similar. Don't just do a wire wrap-around--install a connector with eye, or whatever fits.)

Now you are good to go for the weekend.

Chevy has wiring (I call them connecting) diagrams in their manuals. They are a starting point. M.A.D. Enterprises discusses improvements--a big one is a better power buss bar than the Horn Relay Buss Bar--another is installing relays on higher amp. things like headlights and electric radiator fans.

There are better fuse boxes than Chevy provided. Lots of fuses, visible and numbered, shorten investigating time. Many working/cruising boats have good systems.

Regards and Hope this helps,

Culver

Re: 1966 c20
 

Awesome! Thanks! I'm going to grab a roll of wire and solder some connectors up and test the motor off the original fuse box, if that doesn't work I'll have to pull power from somewhere else for now. Thanks for the info! I would love to re-wire the entire truck and do it properly so I know the wiring is good, now is just a really bad time for me. I will definitely do everything properly when I have more time to tinker and test each part for sure!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

So I drover her home today, DEFINITELY not ready for the highway! I get a loud slapping in 3rd gear on occasion and 4th when I'm revving. Presumable something loose under the hood. On the bright side, with a full tank of mid grade gas she starts with zero issues and runs ALOT smoother. On the not so bright side autozone tried to sell me the wrong lock 3 times so now it's sitting without a driver side lock on my street. I'll be moving it back to the shop tomorrow to complete some work on it. I also found that I can't seem to go much faster than 45 MPH (at least that's what the speedo showed and my tail driver told me that as well). The speedo decided to go hay wire on me about 1 mile down the road anyways, so let's add that to the "needs fixing" section.

I think I've decided this truck will be getting the 350 V8 (haven't decided about the auto transmission that comes with it) after the rebuild. This 250 is awesome and all, but I need to go highway speeds.



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Re: 1966 c20
 

Not trying to talk you out of the 350 at all but the 250 should easily push that truck highway speed. Something else is up causing that 45 mph top end.

The 230 in my '55 GMC will run down the highway 75 mph no problem but I keep it 60-65. I need to get a tach someday. The slapping sounds like something in the drive train.

Just guessing that the speedometer cable probably needs cleaned and lubricated. When they get sticky they kinda wind up and release causing a very erratic reading. Truck looks great, thanks for the updates.

DAC

Re: 1966 c20
 

I figured it was the 4.11 gears with the SM420 originally paired with a 327 V8 then converted to a smaller 250 causing the low top end speed, I might get the 350 and rebuild it in my spare time just for the experience, plus I'll have a spare engine (if I can get the highway speeds out of the 250 there will be no point in replacing it). Here around me the fastest highway is 65, and most are only 55. I'll look into the the speedo cable tomorrow while I replace the door look with the correct (hopefully Napa pulls through, auto zone is failing) cylinders. And the Tach needs to be fixed. Also realized my fuel gauge is stuck at half full no matter how much or little is in there. The other major thing is that the brakes pull hard left when I hit them. I'll also have to update the steering as it's extremely loose. (Probably just a U-joint or something). My though with the slapping was that it might be the old choke cable that is currently just sitting on the brake fluid reservoir.
I would much prefer not to drop the 350 in (I'd love a 327 to convert it back to original) because that's a complete cookie cutter truck if I do. Though if I go that far I will just go on ahead and put a canopy on it so when I start contracting I have a work truck. It would be a good excuse to buy a GMC pickup to use as my own personal vehicle! Though I would instead prefer to get a panel truck to make my work vehicle out of.

On the bright side, I did decide on the final colors for the truck, I'm thinking of a dark forest green with a white cab and fawn interior (all white and orange W/ white cab were close seconds).


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Would that be the GM code 505 Woodland Green which is correct for that era?

Re: 1966 c20
 

I'm not sure, in thinking for now I will use rustoleum high gloss enamel and see how I like it, and then in a few years down the road when I can afford all the tools I'll do a proper base-clear paint job on the truck. But for now the enamel will be great because it's easily fixable from any scratches or anything and being my only truck, it's gonna get scratched at some point at work.


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1966 c20
 

The GM Woodland green is nice, but I'm not sure k want to go quite that color compared to the forest green, but we'll see as time goes on.
Woodland green:


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Forest green:


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The forest green is still wet, it dried darker.

And don't mind all the extra spray marks on the cardboard, I was trying different things like direct on cardboard, double coating it, one coat on primer, etc. most of it was off to the side but that's where I set the ash tray for a color test.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Just curious, how did you determine it was a 327 originally?
Does the VIN start with CS, CE, or CT?
Or is it a C2### ... (C 2 number, number, number?)
I find two different sites for VIN decoding for 1966.
The 250, according to what I can find, was the "new" engine for 1966.

Unless you have an overdrive transmission, top gear is usually 1:1. At which point engine RPMs determine the top speed (when deciding between engines with the same transmission/axles).
From my motors manual the 250 horsepower is 150 at 4200 while the 327 horsepower is 185 at 4400 rpm. So both motors pull their "best" horsepower pretty close to the same place, rpm wise. So at "peak" the 327 might move the truck a little faster, but the 250 will still get close. Running empty you shouldn't see any difference at all.

Basically speaking the 250 will move the truck at highway speeds.

The advantage to the 250 in a truck over the 327 is the 250 develops its torque (235) at 1600 RPMs while the 327 (305) at 2000 rpm, meaning that the 250 develops its torque lower, getting a load moving and up to speed "faster" than the 327 will.

That is with all things (engine condition) being equal/new.

I went looking for the rear axle combinations available for 1966, but the manuals I have are a bit lacking for Chevrolet. The Motors Manual doesn't list, that I could see, the ratios available per year/motor.

*If* your rear end is 4.11:1, then both engines will move it at lower speeds than if it were 3.08:1

Re: 1966 c20
 

Man too bad you're not closer to me. I'd let you play around with my paint gun and see how it looks. The Blonde is forced to fly to Portland pretty often but my air hose won't stretch that far. :poke:

Re: 1966 c20
 

I was told that the original motor was a 327, and that the gearing was 4.11 as well, I haven't had the time to verify what they said. the original owners son pulled the 327 for his own use and a 250 I6 was put in in its place, and a lot of the wiring and the jerry-rigged A/C hose setup agrees with that entirely.

Maybe I'm running into another issue that I haven't identified yet, perhaps the fuel filter is too restrictive or something else is causing the engine to not accelerate to the proper RPM's. Now knowing that I can keep the 250 I6 I see no reason to replace the engine. I know the exhaust is basically Ghetto, it's half way welded together and has gaps in it, I believe one of the manifolds also has a leak, but I have yet to remove them as when I do I would like to sand them down / clean them up and repaint them. It would be nice to do everything at once so I don't have to worry about removing it again later and replacing the gaskets again.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

I've got a nice Matco professional paint gun that I will use for the final coat, I just don't have an air compressor any more! I used to paint heavy equipment for CAT, granted that was all enamel, my mentor taught me some base clear techniques to.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Sweet! You got skills I could use. I guess everyone on the boards can shoot paint but me :lol:

I'll have to fiddle with it some this summer and get my 'larnin on.

For the other thing, those 4.11 gears are loooo

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that's what I got on Cecilia I believe. You can't goose that squirrel over about 55-60. Your best bet is to swap them for 3.08s or so like David said. It's not supposed to be a tough swap if I remember reading right. I think Ron was good at that kinda stuff and identification of the rear ends.

Re: 1966 c20
 

That 3/4 ton truck probably does have 4:11's but still should run higher speeds. My '72 3/4 ton GMC also has that ratio. It's a 350 but will run all day at 75 mph fine. Sucks a little more gas than at 55 -65 for sure though.

If you go to a 350 find a set of 327 valve covers and they will look identical! If I remember right the 327 was a 4" bore just like the 350 anyway.

There probably isn't a u-joint in the steering column, so have a helper turn the steering wheel back and fourth just in the "play" range and start studying the steering box and flex joint, pitman arm idler arm and tie rods to see where the steering response reduces or stops moving.

The left front brake is grabbing harder then the right causing that pull, and possibly the LF isn't functioning at all.

That cable could be slapping around so just tie it somewhere and try driving again.

I like both of those greens but go with what you like.

Re: 1966 c20
 

Thanks guys! I'm out for the weekend for my girlfriends birthday, so I won't be back to the truck till Sunday, on the bright side I got a new lock cylinder for the driver door from a friend! No more unlocked truck (after it gets here...) I want to tear into it and verify what gearing I really have, I may actually have 4.56 gears contributing to my speed issue. On Sunday or Monday I'll know for sure I think. Thanks for the help guys!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

[QUOTE=GMCDAC;56668]That 3/4 ton truck probably does have 4:11's but still should run higher speeds. My '72 3/4 ton GMC also has that ratio. It's a 350 but will run all day at 75 mph fine. Sucks a little more gas than at 55 -65 for sure though.

If you go to a 350 find a set of 327 valve covers and they will look identical! If I remember right the 327 was a 4" bore just like the 350 anyway.

Issue with going to earlier 327 valve covers is they don't have the oil cap in the valve cover so you need the corresponding intake manifold with the oil neck and PCV fitting, that is if you want to be period correct.

Re: 1966 c20
 

[QUOTE=bigblockv6;56671]Yup, of course you are right on! Would cause some crankcase ventilation issues too!

I will retract the 327 valve cover comment!-LOL!! Memory ain't what it used to be.

DAC

Re: 1966 c20
 

Awesome, I'll keep that in mind! I might be looking at getting a 327 engine that someone offered up when I have some extra cash to buy it! But we will see how it goes, I'm looking at another part time job to cover expenses and fixing the truck so I can get some spending money.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Had to clean out the cowl today, didn't realize how bad it really was!!! Now I know better.
I also got the wipers working, worked the arms loose and kept working them until I got them fully extended and the connection between the arms and the motor popped back into place, i sure am glad I got that figured out!
After a few scoops of mud and needles:


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After a quick rinse:


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And a kind of cool look at the old paint layers


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Looks like I should have the wipers on Thursday or Friday, $24 for the set from O'reillys seems like a good deal! Now I just need a new windshield at some point in the future.
As for the slapping sound I've isolated it to coming from the left side near the floor, I believe it is the exhaust which comes down the left side and exits right behind the driver door. When I started it up with the clutch in and in neutral I still heard it so I know it isn't the transmission. If I have time tomorrow morning / afternoon I will go through and see if I can find anything, right now I already know the exhaust is kind of ghetto built anyways.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Looks like I got a new driver side door lock! I have yet to see any info or tutorials on how to install it though. Any tips would be great! It's one of those button locks from LMC (a very nice "investor" bought it for me). So I will tackle this Friday!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

Okay, this was fun! I got my lock installed (upside down from what I wanted, but I really didn't want to modify the handle).
Step 1: remove the inner door panel (you must first remove the handle, latch handle, and window crank).
Step 2: remove the outside handle (two small screws inside the door, not hard to reach at all)



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Step 3: remove the old lock
First you need to remove the ring on the inside, mine had just a small piece of wire.
Second remove the assembly (I hit my button with a light tap from a hammer and it popped out in my hand)
Step 4: Cut the new lock flanges to match the old ones.


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Now take a sander and your cut off wheel and work it down smooth until it fits


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Step 5: insert the assembly and test fit
Step 6: swear at the snap ring they gave you because it DOES NOT FIT.
Step 7: make it fit
Step 8: re-install the handle with the lock inside of it
Step 8: smack the button while it's locked to make sure the snap ring doesn't break (it is a lock, after all, you don't need people getting in that easy!)
Step 9: re position the snap ring with a screw driver because you are too lazy to remove the handle again and bring it back inside. (Repeat steps 8-9 until it works, I only repositioned it once because I didn't like the way it looks)
Step 10: replace the inside door panel, handles, and crank.
Step 11: get dirty looks from your neighbor because your truck doesn't fit their idea of perfect
Step 12: rev the engine on said truck and embarrass their 6 cyl mustangs coffee can exhaust.
Step 13: sit in your truck for a few minutes with a smile and just enjoy being there.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

And the wipers are a go! I found out that the generic wipers CANT work right on the wiper arms with an adapter. With about an hour and a half of time in the parts store they finally found and got me some "classic" wipers. But hey, they work!


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Re: 1966 c20
 

I have come to the realization that my tail lights no-longer work! not even my brake lights! I'm not entirely sure what's going on yet, as far as whether it is wiring or what, but i even tried wiring my blinkers in and the only working lights on the entire truck as of now are the headlights. at least i have wipers now though.

New update, apparently they work, but they are very very dim! easy to see at night though. When i turn on my left blinker my right tail light goes out, right blinker / off position does nothing. i used to bullet connectors and re-attached my cut wires for the front blinker harness to no avail, no front blinkers either. When i get the chance I'm going to try and tear into the switch and see if it's easily fixed.

On a happy note, O'reillys has a fuse block with the same number of fuses as my stock one for around $5.00. I wonder how hard that would be to wire up.

Re: 1966 c20
 

Hi Hantke, you have really been getting a lot of stuff done on the old truck! It probably wouldn't hurt to pull out your inside fresh air vents as there may be a bunch of pine needles and debris collected down there too, judging by what you cleaned from under the cowl.

Check all the grounds on your rear lights as that is a real common problem on old rides. Make sure the sockets and bulb contacts are clean also.

If your old fuse block isn't burned up I really don't think you would need to replace it.

Thanks for the updates. Glad you are having fun with the old truck!

DAC

Re: 1966 c20
 

Thanks, good call! I pushed the hose all the way down the vent and started flooding the cab (I had NO idea the fresh air vents came from the cowl, I thought it would pull up from under the engine bay or something). Luckily my doors were open so I caught on pretty quickly. I ended up pushing it down again and ran it till it was just a clean water stream. probably just means all thats left is the really tight packed nasty stuff!

I've heard about the grounds, but I wasn't really sure where to look. I've been hearing everything from the dimmer switch to just screw a wire in on the frame and on the body. or attach a wire from the light housing to the body / frame. I'm going to load up my tool box again and spend the afternoon working on it and deciphering the wiring (still no Volt-O-Meter, but i got a test light!). I've still got a roll of wire and I need to bring those plugs into the house and solder up some better connections for my wiper motor! i'd also like to get some black wire since all I have currently is red. I did notice a new issue last night going down the road, all my lights went out! i did a quick double tap of the bright switch and they flicked right back on, so i'll have to figure that one out one of these days!

I'm actually really enjoying working on this truck, my neighbors think im crazy because I'm out there at odd times ranging from 6 AM to midnight, The work shop is now down for the count so I'm working in the street in front of my house now. :lolsmack2:

My fuse box is a horrible mess right now and i'm afraid to take it apart, i might not get everything wired back together! though i'll have to get around to it one of these days. I also looked into the BUS-bar replacement for the fuse box, do i need to use inline fuses for this? it seems weird to me.

I've been eyeing the digital shop manual on a CD for $30 from LMC, 63-66 manual plus all of the supplements seems like a not-to-bad deal. perhaps my budget will allow it one of these days.

Re: 1966 c20
 

You're welcome, Hantke! I currently don't own one of these trucks so I don't want to get too detailed about the electrics and normally when I get done writing what I know my explainations become clear as used motor oil!

My '55 GMC grounds through the frame and sheet metal, so on a lot of the stuff, there is no ground wire. It is the negative side of your battery. Without a ground or a dirty ground electrical components will not work or in the case of lights, resistance in the ground will make a dim and erratic light. The dimmer switch does sound like it is dirty or corroded since you were able to get them back after the double-tap. I think they are pretty cheap. I haven't had to buy one for quite awhile.

A bus bar sounds like a "jumper" to eliminate the fuses and I sure wouldn't recommend it and yes if you used it all electrical components would require individual fusing. Your test light won't do a great job finding bad grounds but it can be done. An ohm meter can tell faster if grounds are bad.

Do you have a Harbor Freight Tools store in your area? Sometimes they have Volt-Ohm-Amp meters like this one free with a coupon but normal price I think is around 10 bucks. I rely on HF a lot.

That shop manual would be a good idea probably but I really can't say there.

DAC

Re: 1966 c20
 

Yeah I've gone through about 5 volt meters from them, I'm really missing my fluke one from a few years back. Kicking myself pretty hard for selling it right now. I just didn't know how the lights grounded, basically I just need to figure out how to ground it properly. I've got the wires now, so I can at least wire my wiper motor thankfully! I just got a notebook for the truck and once I find my straight edge I'll get to work on drawing up what I know about my current wiring as I go. Sometimes it helps to see it on paper


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Re: 1966 c20
 

So no real progress as of yet, been home sick and doing homework. One of my awesome (read obnoxious) neighbors decided they don't like my truck and have been repeatedly calling the sheriff to report it abandoned (mind you, it's sitting in front of my house where they used to tell all their visitors with loud fart can Hondas to park). I think someone is getting a little jealous now! Sheriff was nice, he stopped by while I was gone and had common sense to realize it is registered to the address it is sitting in front of (who would have thought???). So for now that's this weeks update. Hoping to take it to my friends birthday this weekend now.


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Re: 1966 c20
 

:lol: :lol:

That got me rolling! Man you're really tearing through the projects. Makes me feel all motivated and stuff! Come on, spring! :thumbsup:


Those are the best neighbors, aren't they? Mine was like that to our previous owners. When we moved in I invited them over for Pizza and we've been "friends" ever since. I even helped them unload a big desk the other day.

Maybe you can catch them outside and if they're older, ask them if they've ever had an older truck like this. You might get a story out of them.
Or ask them if they can hold something for you to get them involved. Might work. Then again, they might just groan at you and wander off muttering about global warming and soy bean farts. Oregon ain't what she used to be. :(
At least you tried.

Re: 1966 c20
 

I'm trying to be nice here, but I know who did it, one of my neighbors (the one with the V6 mustang) thinks he is a drag racer and drives 40 MPH through the neighborhood and tries to "drift" corners and do burnouts infract of the house at 2AM on a regular basis, but we are unincorporated so the cops don't care. He used to have his obnoxious friends park in front of my house and they have no respect. He would also regularly park partially blocking my driveway as well, so i just parked the truck there and suddenly he couldn't do that anymore. Plus one of the neighbors called the cops him and they talked to me last, then as he pulled in (it was great, he came around the corner onto our street with the engine red-lining getting ready to try yet again to peel out until he saw the cop) the cop went to go talk to him so he's been regularly accusing me of stupid stuff. at one point he actually called them claiming I was "storing illegal activities in my garage". Now, I don't know how you store an activity, but I really don't care. I showed the officer around and offered to let him look through the cabinets or boxes or whatever and he politely declined and we talked about dune buggies for a while then he left. Out of the whole development there is literally one house with nice neighbors, the rest are out at midnight or later yelling and screaming at each other to shut up while they are blaring loud music so they have to yell louder to yell over it. it sucks.

Re: 1966 c20
 

I thought you meant crotchety old people. I HATE punk kids (or 40 yr old kids) that act like that. Not much you can do but move unfortunately. I guess you could seed the road with roofing nails and wd-40 (drift that, punk!) but that might be considered illegal. :poke:

The house next to me is for sale. I'll split the moving truck with ya!