Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
 

Just talking to myself here.
Even though the throw-out bearing turns freely and quietly under testing (standing on it and spinning), the only thing that could have caused the release fingers and the big lever to have worn where they did as a much as they did was if the bearing froze for an extended time.
If I can find three new fingers and a correct t/o bearing, I will have hope for a fix.

Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
 

Jim, have checked this page for part numbers

http://6066gmcguy.com/partnumbers.html

or even PM Lewis Matkin as he’s the parts number Guru

Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
 

I am having no luck finding the three release levers (fingers) that I think will put my '60 1500 back on the road and pasture.
They carry the number C-4B-200-F; the B could be an 8.
They have two holes for pivots at .475 diameter, with a weird plug in the outer one.
I am hoping someone has a pile of (or even one) pressure plates with good levers.
I don't need the plate and the levers would be easier to ship.
Thanks

Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
 

Is this the part with the fingers you are looking for?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11504617354...EAAOSwwMZhXywc

Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
 

I think the control shaft broke at the clutch pedal years ago and was carelessly welded back in the wrong position relative to the adjusting rod clamp.
A modification seems to allow both free play at the t/o bearing and proper disc release.
Details on request.

Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
 

There is very little info out there about our trucks and clutches, so I just did mine and this is what I have noticed.

As posted... 12" kit's work. I got this one
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...62-1/5332559-p

Two things about it you should know:
-Yes, the hub on the disk is on the wrong side. That has to affect the pedal travel?
-The carrier bearing inside the flywheel, it is just a race, it's not an actual bearing, but it's the correct size and will work.

The throw out bearing and pressure plate were correct and matched up with my old stuff.

So I left my carrier bearing and reused the 11" disk because it still looked new. I'm sure the 12" disk would be fine with a new flywheel as well, but I left my original flywheel on it.

Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
 

I'm getting ready to do mine and came across all this info. 305 E SM420. I have a fully functioning clutch at time of disassembly. I inspected my Borg and Beck style, it is 10.5", original flywheel. Everything was fully operational without complaints. Only reason I'm changing out was I noticed the Throw out bearing had worn grooves in the in the pressure plate fork levers. The disc has wear on it too. The plan is to take my flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc and throw out to Southside Brake for rebuilding.

Info to take away from here:
1) Pilot bearing which is retained in the flywheel is pressed flush with the flywheel surface.
2) Existing clutch disc springs and 10 groove snout is flush with the friction material on the flywheel side of the clutch disc. Any protrusion here will cause interference and improper clutch function (disengagement issues) will ensue.
3) throw out bearing is around 1.3" in width.
4) My clutch adjustment is a manual bell crank style and the pushrod is retained in the outer position of the clutch fork.