Starting problems / ignition / distributor
 

Hi everybody,

hope someone can help me with my problem.

In October 2025, I took the last ride of the season. Suddenly, the car died at walking speed. No sputtering or stuttering, no warning. It just shut off, as if the ignition key had been pulled out. There was no way to restart it. The starter motor turned, there were no unusual mechanical issues or noises. I then towed the car home.

The following points were checked:

- Fuel: present, also in den carburetor
- Spark: present but weak
- Carburetor: no issues
- Other mechanical issues: none to see, nothing to hear
- Distributor: still in the marked position (not rotated)

The following work was carried out:

- Distributor: points replaced
- Ignition coil: replaced
- Spark: now present and strong
- Starter: replaced (turns like a dream). The old one was a bit weak.

Result: Won't start

Here's what we found (many thanks to David/Prowbar here from the GMC forum :thumbsup:):

- Engine set to 1 TDC, valve cover removed, both valve springs on cylinder 1 are relaxed. Valves closed.

- Distributor cap removed. Distributor rotor points to cylinder 6 and not cylinder 1 (see photo). Engine turned 10° by hand. Spark on cylinder 6.

- Distributor pulled out: no abnormalities except that the vacuum mechanism isn't working. It's extremely stiff.

My question: I'm able to install the distributor so that it points to cylinder 1 and try to start it. Is that a good idea?

I'd like to know why the distributor position is incorrect.

At first, I thought the crankshaft and camshaft were misaligned, but both valves close at 1 TDC.

The timing chain was replaced during the restoration (200 km ago). Could the woodruff keys have sheared off? I think you'd hear that, and the valve position would be off.

Maybe you have a suggestion for me. I'm at my wit's end.

Many greetings

Tom

https://up.picr.de/50665948xr.jpeg

Re: Starting problems / ignition / distributor
 

I sure would like to help, but you're in over my head. Maybe Prowbar will pop in later and offer some insight.

Re: Starting problems / ignition / distributor
 

Did you check the centrifugal advance in the distributor? If the springs had broken it would go full advance while running. Turning the rotor by hand the distributor should rotate clockwise against the springs. There should always be some spring pressure on the rotor and no looseness (no spring pressure/feel sloppy). Another possibility if you had just operated the engine to over 3500 rpm, it is possible that the centrifugal advance had stuck in the full advance position from dried up lubrication.

You can see if the engine will run by resetting the distributor to fire on the crankshaft timing mark. If it run OK, then you rule out other issues. You will need to repair or replace the distributor.

Re: Starting problems / ignition / distributor
 

Do not remove distributor.

Cap off, all plugs out. Thumb over cylinder 1 hole. Turn motor with starter. Watch rotor. See where rotor is when pressure hits thumb. Watch several rotations to see if rotor repeats. report.

Also, where is harmonic balancer mark when rotor is in position shown in your photo?

Re: Starting problems / ignition / distributor
 

Did you move the distributor? Looks to me like the vacuum advance has been turned counter clockwise maybe you timing is too far retarded. Like AZken said check that balancer mark

Re: Starting problems / ignition / distributor
 

I don't believe the 305 series have a Harmonic Balancer, just a flange with the timing disc riveted to the flange and a pulley bolted to it.

Re: Starting problems / ignition / distributor
 

You are right James, no balancer. Thank you. Thinking Chevy. May have markings on disc. Sorry, Tom. Continue with thumb test. It's a good way to confirm you are on compression stroke of no. 1.

If you are sure you have gas going down carb throat and sure you have spark....must be spark is at wrong time. If no noise, or trying to start with some firing, the timing is off. If you have backfire from carb or exhaust, it is WAY off.

Your valve position test is one of the ways to set timing. You can make mistakes in any method. You can be 180 deg out of time. It's a little more tricky without a timing mark.

"- Distributor cap removed. Distributor rotor points to cylinder 6 and not cylinder 1 (see photo). Engine turned 10° by hand. Spark on cylinder 6."



Please explain in detail.
If I understand what you did.....
1. You removed the cap?
2. You rotated crankshaft CW by hand until both no. 1 valves are closed and rockers are loose?
3. Then you observed rotor location was at no. 6?
4. Then you rotated crankshaft again? CW or CCW?
All this is Correct???

Keep in mind that there is supposed to be 5-10 deg advance spark. So after initial position of rotor, you would rotate crankshaft back CCW and at the same time observe if points are open or closed. Points should fire just before TDC not at TDC or after TDC.

Reference from member bigblockV6: Probably the same for 305, not sure.

"The one thing that can help is depending on what year your 351 is there were two different locations for the number one on the distributor, 1960-63 number one was in the 6 o'clock position. On 1964-74 number one was in the 5 o'clock position, the vacuum pot for the advance should be roughly in the 6 o'clock position leaning towards 7 o'clock."

He is just speaking about how the distributor will look visually using rotor position and vacuum advance can position as reference.

Re: Starting problems / ignition / distributor
 

I snapped some pics of the pointer and hub markings I was talking about. In this case since the heads off you can see that #1 is at TDC. hope this helps