Re: '63 Fenderside in Colorado
Successfully pulled the motor, and got it on an engine stand. That was tricky, as both the hoist and the stand have two legs, and extended they run into each other. I ended up putting the stand legs on top of the hoist legs, attaching the engine, then hoisting engine plus stand into the air, then pulling the engine/stand assembly free of the hoist legs while I lowered the whole thing. Not sure Ralph Nader would have approved, but it got the job done.
I was so focused on removing the engine safely and mounting it, I didn't notice but a small pad was left behind, ended up on the floor under where the engine was. It looks like some sort of mount pad, but I can't find its twin and don't know where it goes during re-install. I included a picture. Anyone recognize it?
Still scratching my head about how best to remove the front coil springs. They just look scary and I want to be sure I'm ready for this.
So I'm working on removing the rear axel and leaf springs. The manual says jack the frame so the weight is off the axel--check. Then remove the wheels--check. Then remove the nuts on the U-bolts--not check. Did I say they were on tight? Sheez. These make the flywheel bolts look like child's play. My impact wrench can only turn one nut, and that is very slowly. The other seven won't budge. (Maybe I should check them for spot welds, like on the front right fender?) PB Blaster is working right now. I'm guessing I need about a 3 foot breaker bar for this.
In the meantime, I have a parts washer/degreaser, and it is working overtime, and helping me create an ecological disaster when I dump the water. But, I've used a water-based degreaser, so it isn't all that bad. I got a vibratory tumbler from Eastwood and I'm using it on nuts, bolts, etc--it vibrates all day and I'm using the corncob media. But so far I think I can duplicate or do better on the wire wheel.
Has anyone ever used Eastwood's tin-zinc plating system?
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