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Nice work. The fuel gauge should be easy to test, make sure you have the right fuel sender with the correct resistance. I'm pretty sure mine has a range from 0-30 Ohms. Later gauges go to 90 Ohms I believe. The aftermarket gauge might be for a 90 Ohms sender.
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That was my first thought. But the aftermarket gauge is 0-30. I bench tested the sending unit and both gauges to verify where the issue was.
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My factory gauge had a similar issue. The ground wire (brown?) was shorting and had to be rigged to connect properly. If you wiggle the plug to the back of the instrument cluster, does it start working?
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Unfortunately that in not the issue this time around. No difference if I wiggle the plug at the cluster, wiggle the wire at the sending unit, nor relocating the sending unit ground. The issue is 100% with the gauge itself.
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The connector pins is where mine problem was. I had bad solder connections between the pins and the flexible (plastic) printed circuit board. On mine, I cleaned off the old solder and apply fresh solder. No more problems. This type of work required experiences working with flexible printed circuit board, otherwise it will melt the board and become junk. This board use lead/tin solder and not the newer stuff. The lead/tin melt at a lower temperature and the new stuff will melt the board when you get it hot enough to melt the solder.
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That would be the best case scenario if it's just a connection issue in the printed circuit. It certainly doesn't seem like a mechanical issue just because it does make a full and smooth sweep when turning the key on and off. I'll have to pop the cluster out one of these days and take a look.
Thank you all for your input. I do appreciate it.