Quote:
Originally Posted by James
It's time for a multimeter. Connect the meter to the starter start stud and see if the is voltage there (probable won't be base on your description) while holding the switch in start. Then Proceed to the firewall connector (I believe it will be on the firewall behind where the original coil use to be). You can back pin it and check for power while holding the switch in start. If still no power, pulling the switch out and back pinning the switch while holding it in start. If still no power, it look like a bad switch. Unplugging the connector from the switch, you could jumper the switch connector to see if the starter turn over. If it does then the switch is bad.
The wire that run from the firewall connector to the original coil is a resistor wire. On my truck I depinned that wire from the connector and installed a solid wire so the power come directly from the ignition switch to the distributor.
If the tach works with the point distributor before, then connecting it to the HEI will be no problem, there is a terminal there just for that and I think the cap show the labeling for the pin out (should be the only one not being use).
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James,
I decided to just run my wire from the distributor directly to the ignition key as you described and my truck started right up! So thank you for the response, I don't know why I didn't do it that way from the start. I will try hooking up the tach wire here soon
Thanks again!