[Prowbar]

Picking up where we left off.

Installed the reground lifters from Delta Cams in WA. These are the original lifters with the hardened foot (the best!)



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Installed head gaskets and cylinder heads. I put a little bit of RTV around the port closest to the fire ring for additional sealing.



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Pushrods, rocker arms and valve covers were next on the list to be installed.



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Then installed valley cover and pressure tested the engine for leaks. I consider this to be a very important step as an engine can seemingly leak in a million places, all of them inaccessible when installed.
Using a vacuum cleaner that has the ability for a hose to be attached to the pressure port, you can easily generate a high volume low pressure airstream.



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I used the oil fill cap with the PCV valve removed to pressurize the engine and then used a soapy water solution in a spray bottle to check for bubbles.
At first I wasn't getting any pressure and then found out the engine lost pressure through the intake bolt holes - another potentional leak path!

Be sure to block off canister filter housing, distributor hole, intake bolts, oil filter ports, drain plug.

My leak testing revealed leaks in the cork gasket of the oil pan and the valley cover. Valve covers leaked too, but I had only RTV'd one side of the rubber gasket to the valve cover - need to apply RTV to both sides to get them to seal.

I found out that the distributor has a groove in the shoulder that the clamp tightens onto. In this groove there should be a rubber seal but mine was already gone. I found that an 36x2mm (1.4" ID x 0.080" wire thickness) O-ring fits neatly and eliminates all potential distributor leaks.

Ended up removing the oil pan and omitting the cork gasket altogether, using only RTV to seal them. Switched from the Permatex Right Stuff 1 minute to Permatex Ultra Black and couldn't be happier.

Don't like the 1 minute stuff, but its the only Right Stuff I can get here. Only with the Ultra Black and the apply, finger tight, wait 1 hour, then fully tighten I could seal up the valley cover and oil pan on the first try.



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Knowing the engine was pretty much leak free I could move on to paint.
Earlier I had painted the engine in parts. Since GMC from the factory painted them in one go I figured I'd do the same. VHT Ford Red is the color of choice.



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The next day I installed the accessories (motor mounts, front balancer, exhaust manifolds and locks) I didn't bother repainting exhaust manifolds because the old paint flaked off quickly and made a mess in the engine bay. I like the way they are now. I had someone laser cut some new exhaust bolt locks (I have the 2D file of you need it)

Then I took the engine off the stand and installed bellhousing, clutch fork, flywheel, clutch plate and pressure plate. I'm using a McLeod clutch I picked up second hand. Its sintered on one side and organic on the other and should hold all the torques

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This clutch is a drop in fit on my modified flywheel! No fussing with the clutch hub protruding too much.



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The original 11" clutch with Borg and Beck pressure plate would slip from time to time.

Then installed the wiring harness, coil and coil bracket and installed the engine. I lost the starter bolts (I'll find 'em) which meant I have to install starter later

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Oh well.



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478 V6 is in, couldn't be happier how this all turned out. Can't wait to continue the work and start her up for the first time!

Merry Christmas everyone!