[odin8183]

blakeman350:
First exam the push rods, roll across a flat surface to ensure straightness then verifying with measurements and visually that they all are the same. Lube and install the push rods. Examine the rocker arms for damage. Install the rocker arms torquing the shafts to 20-25 foot lbs.
I’ll try to simplify cold valve adjustment. You might want to just sketch the cylinders and valves on a simple diagram.

Standing in front of the engine the left 3 cylinders are #2, #4 and #6 from front to rear and #1, #3 and #5 cylinders on the right. Valves on the left from front to rear will be
Exhaust then Intake for #2, Exhaust then Intake for #4 and Intake then Exhaust for #6. Valves on the right are Exhaust then Intake on #1, Intake then Exhaust on #3 and Intake then Exhaust on #5.
For the cold setting turn the crankshaft manually and set each Intake valve gap to .014 inches and each exhaust valve gap at .020 inches. Set the Intake’s valve gap when that cylinder’s exhaust valve starts to open- this would be when the push rod starts up. Set the exhaust valves when the Intake valve starts to close- this would be when the push rod starts to go down.

I’ve used this procedure several times in the 30 years I've owned my '66 and have found it’s not worth the effort nor is it needed to go back and set the valves hot per the manual (with a 160 degree warm and running engine) setting the Intake at .012 and exhaust at .018. Usually the cold setting when the engine is warm are the same as the required warm settings.

If you have bent push rods you may have other damage that'll get much more complex and costly than replacing push rods. Good luck.

CO'T