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If the other bolts are already removed, I would try and use a long rod and slip it in the clutch disc hub all the way through and into the pilot bearing. Then see if the disc can be moved away from the bolt, it might move enough to remove the remaining bolts.
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That worked to get one of the troublesome bolts out. For the last one, I just pried the pressure plate away from the flywheel, yanked out the clutch, and then had enough clearance to remove the bolt. The pressure plate is not salvageable. Not because I damaged it, though. It is (was) new, but it is badly grooved and burnt. The clutch plate itself doesn't have much meat on it. Looks like it got burned up. Not a problem though. Clutch kits are easy to source.
Another update: Finally got around to relocating my idler arm. Replaced to old idler arm that was on the bracket first. Got it torqued to the drag link, got the drag link torqued to the steering box. Then I got out my level and began measuring. Got the drag link level with the crossmember and got it straight. Drilled two holes and bolted it in. I can turn the wheel lock-to-lock without the drag link rubbing on the crossmember. Once that was done, finished up with some new tie rods and fresh grease.
Also want to share that I got my hands on the "Custom" badges. I managed to get two of them from AspenAutoAZ. The studs are broken off the back, but I think I can repair them.