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Myself being in the auto body industry for 30 plus years I would heat the surface start out with a heavy hammer and finish with a hammer and dolly.
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Thanks for chiming in BBV6, I wasn't sure if I should recommend heat as I didn't know if the bumper would lose strength. We had a "bumper and paint" shop here locally at one time and they would send bumpers to Denver to get "pressed" straight for repairs, so when I needed to do that once the press at work did to a reasonable job for a crude repair. It was a pain setting it up in the positions and finding a few odd shaped pieces of iron to use for "dies" though.
I have about 30 plus DAYS of "seat of the pants" auto body experience!--LOL!!
DAC
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Thanks again guys for the suggestions.
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I did use a little heat and the 3lb hammer. To try to keep the bumps from becoming dents, I took a piece of flat steel (maybe 1/8" thick and 3 inches wide) I had that fit behind the bumper nicely length and width wise. Clamped it in for a makeshift brace and went after one bump with the heat and carefully aimed blows with the hammer.
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It worked surprisingly well. Rinsed and repeated for the second bump on the other half of the bumper.
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It's not perfect, but it is a whhhooolllleeee lot better.
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In the center section, where the bumper is narrower, the bottom edge was flared out pretty bad. Guess the truck it was on tried to pull something improperly that it should not have.
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So, I clamped some square steel tubing to the bottom edge to show me how far back the flare needed to go; basically a straightedge. I added some additional bracing in the narrow section so I would not collapse the bottom edge to far. I started with heat and the three pound hammer, but it really did not want to budge.
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So, I took a risk and grabbed the sledge. A few careful blows later, it is a nice and flat bottom edge now.
I will be painting it white, so as I address the remaining pitting that appears to be fairly minor, hopefully I can try my luck at hiding the rest of the minor imperfections.
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