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Today I went out and tried to find where my rear end gear ratio is stamped (and failed. How the heck do I find the gear ratio?) but while I was out...
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Hi Cecilia, Fetch, The Blond, and all the little Fetches,
I'd like to side track your blog by asking a hundred questions and passing on twice as many thank-you remarks. A voice in the back of my head tells me to stick to the topic for the sake of your other readers. That means we have to get together for a ...hmmm... oh yeah, Pepsi. In the meantime, please consider the new gap in radio air waves, caused by Prairie Home Companion's changes, and see if you have the spare time to put Cecilia, Fetch, The Blond, and all the little Fetches on the air, or into a novel, or on screen.
Back to gear ratio: following is from
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which focuses on GMC and Chevy Advanced Design trucks.
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Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Rear end
Date: 11/4/03 ?
From:
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?
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Jack up both sides of the rear of the truck.
Place a tape or chalk mark on the 12 o'clock position of a rear tire.
Also note the the position of the drive shaft and mark the drive shaft so it's revolutions can be counted.
Turn the marked tire one full revolution and count how many times the drive shaft rotates.
It's easy to distinquish between a 4:11 rear end (one tire revolution equal 4.11 turns of the drive shaft) and, for example, a 2:73 rear end. It's harder to distinquish between close rear end ratios.
Therefor, it is best way to remove the differential cover, count the pinion and ring gear teeth and divide the one by the other.
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Subj: RE: [oletrucks] Rear end ratio
Date: 11/4/03
From:
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(Bruce Kettunen)
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If both rear tires are rotating the same direction, it is one revolution.
If one rear tire is prevented from rotating, it is two revolutions.
If one tire is held and the other tire turns, the spider gear in the differential causes the drive shaft to rotate at half the speed it normally would. This works the other way too. If you brake one wheel the other one will spin twice as fast. Don't try this at home.
Don't forget to put the transmission in neutral.
Bruce Kettunen
57 3200
Mt. Iron, MN
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Subj: Re: [oletrucks] Rear end ratio
Date: 11/7/03
From:
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With a helper you can mark the tire and drive shaft and roll the car one revolution of the tire and count the number of turns the drive shaft goes around.
With two wheels up and positraction with both wheels turning the SAME direction when rotated the same applies.
With an open differential and one wheel on the ground, 2 revs of the tire and count as best as possible the number of revs of the drive shaft that is the ratio. (Example: 3.5 drive shaft revolutions is a rear end ratio of 3.5:1.)
Ed ke6bnl
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Hope this helps: it's old information but probably still works (like Cecilia, me, and other stuff).
Regards,
Culver
1961 GMC K1500
Minneapolis, MN
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Hey Culver! How ya been buddy?!?!
That was great info too! Someone today emailed me and said "Hey, dummy. Take the cover off the rear end and IT'S STAMPED RIGHT THERE!"
Um...
I thought, well that's too simple. Probably never work. They probably stamped "Made in China" on mine, my luck being what it is. But since I was taking the cover off anyway, I thought I'd go ahead and change out that nasty gear oil that's in there too. Here's what I did:
First, I gathered all the players together. There's a large crescent wrench too, but I didn't have it for the picture. And the transfer pump isn't necessary either. Oh, and please keep in mind that I wasn't ready to totally re-do the rear end yet so I don't have the por-15, the de-greaser, and all the cleaning stuff. So yeah...she's not going to look much different, but it's what's on the inside that counts. Here in a few weeks we'll get in there and put the clean to her.
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Tools you will need:
A large crescent wrench
A tub to drain old oil into
A socket wrench
A 1/2" socket
Two 1 qt bottles of Redline 75W90 Gear Oil (number 57904)
Some soap and water
A wire brush or a wire wheel on a drill (best)
Possibly a 1/2" wrench if you can't get to all your bolts
A stick for cat poo
About 30 minutes of time for you, about 2 hours for me.
First toss your bucket/pail/drain pan under the rear end like so.
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Then if you're in a sandy area like me, get your poo stick or board and bulldoze the top layer of sand off out of the way so you don't lay your face in cat poo. It really draws the flies.
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Now remove all 243 1/2" bolts from the rear end, starting with the one clamped to the brake line (so you can move it around) and ending with the one at the very top (so it doesn't fall over on you and splash your purty face). Oil will begin to leak out of the bottom when you get those bottom bolts out.
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Now take the final top bolt out and just pull it off like a mask on halloween.
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And you'll see this.
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But Cecilia has a few issues in here. See these gouges? They don't look factory.
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Also she has one tooth that's broken off on the large gear that goes up and down. You can see it toward the bottom (actually the right because this pic is sideways).
I found it in the bottom of the case along with some more metal. Make sure you rake that bottom out real good and look for surprises.
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Here's my stamps. I still don't know what kinda rear end this is.
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That last pic shows a 4/12, at least that's how it looks to me. So reading it the way I think it's supposed to be read, it was built in 1961 and it's a 4.12? There's not a 4.12 so that makes no sense.
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Because my bolts were covered in nastiness I used this handy dandy metal bowl to wash them in.
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I also took a wire wheel to the bolts to shine them up a little.
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