Quote:
Originally Posted by WyoRoadDog
Thanks for the info! It made me wonder when I pulled the other set out and they appeared to be the same.
I had seen in my search that the 235 lifters would work, but thought that was only talking about the hydraulic swap, didn't know there was a solid option as well. Didn't want to go hydraulic yet, as it looks to take a different cam profile, and I didn't want to re-grind a cam I just had ground...
I'll look at ordering up a set of the I-6 lifters.
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Hydraulic lifters do indeed require a different cam profile than that of a solid lifter camshaft. It will also be of interest to you to note that lifters that are "cupped" should be discarded and replaced with new lifters. The cam lobe on which the "cupped" lifter was riding should also be checked for excessive wear, since cupped lifters also have a tendency to destroy the camshaft, to the point of the cam lobe being all but nonexistent. I have seen with my own eyes such cases. And, putting a new lifter on a badly worn cam lobe will do one thing, and one thing only---destroy that new lifter that you spent good money on!! I've seen this happen as well. Another point to remember here is, if you remove the lifters from the engine block during the rebuild process, make sure that they go back into the same bore that they came out of. The lifter has "mated" itself (via the break in process) to that particular cam lobe, and "mating" any given lifter to a different cam lobe can cause excessive camshaft wear and failure!! This was one point in engine rebuilding that was "pounded into our heads" by our Technical College Instructors!! I hope you find this information useful and helpful.