Re: Valve parts
I learned the importance of valve stem seals early in my automotive experience. I bought my well used 1970 Chevy Nova w/307 V8 late June 1973, odometer showed 20,000-×25,000 miles, but 100,000 was probably more accurate. And it had been over-heated pretty good in it's past. The speedometer didn't work but I installed a tach and knew the MPH at every rpm. It would burn about a quart of oil every 500-600 miles, then I ran a quart of Rislone thru it, then it burned a quart every 250-300 miles. I talked to lots of mechanics, most gave me estimates of hundreds or over a Thousand Dollars to stop the oil burning. It was burning it too, no leaks. Finally the #1 mechanic at the little repair shop in the tiny town I grew up near said, I should be able to slow that down, so I dropped it off one morning on my way to work. He pulled one valve cover, and all 4 sparkplugs, inserted a plug with an air connector, pumped up the pressure to hold valves closed, removed the valve springs, " Yep, Just what I thought, your valve seal orings are gone, it's been really hot at least once!" So in about ten minutes he had them replaced and started putting the valve cover on. COFFEE TIME, He said he'd have it done in time for me to drive it home. I walked the last 2 blocks to work. My car was outside the shop before Noon. He told me the valves were really loose in the guides, It should be much better but might get back to burning oil again. I drove almost 1000 miles before I added a quart, then about 600 miles, then around 400-500, then 300, and finally stabilized around 125 to 150 miles. I looked around for a good set of used heads, or a whole used engine. Finally about Thanksgiving I traded cars, ordered out my new Firebird and traded the Nova off. New Firebird got snowbound in Indiana for several days, was first week of Febuary before I got it.
The Umbrella seals are the best. The way these V-6 truck engines were run, they needed a little bit of oil in the valve guides.
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