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Old January 5th, 2020, 04:39 PM
tbucketnut tbucketnut is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: GIG HARBOR, WA
Truck: 64 1/2 ton
Age: 65
Posts: 203
Rep Power: 127
tbucketnut is a jewel in the roughtbucketnut is a jewel in the roughtbucketnut is a jewel in the roughtbucketnut is a jewel in the roughtbucketnut is a jewel in the rough
Default Re: 1964 GMC Model 1002 build journal

Hello all, got a little bit done in the garage yesterday. I decided to replace the PCV paper element located in the canister. To my surprise the canister unscrewed very nicely, I have heard war stories on how they can get locked on. Anyway, the canister was void of any filter, so God only knows how long it had been sucking unfiltered air into the pcv. Just another page in the chapter on how this old boy has been thoroughly neglected in the last years.

Since getting Enoch license plates last week, I have logged about 50 miles on him. It is a pleasure to not smell blowby gases anymore by removing the vented cap and putting the filter in the pcv. I am really starting to appreciate a real truck engine for the stoutness built into it and the sound of mechanical lifter is just plain music.. Big shout out to Quigley for hooking me up with nos pcvs and filter.

The last couple days it was cooler in the pacific northwest so I decided to take a look see into the heater. The heater core had been bypassed by the PO, so I figured it was a leaker, but there was also no fan operation either.

So I started removing it. Was pretty happy with the condition of the sheet metal parts, no cancer or rust, those will go into my glass bead cabinet today for a cleanup. The fan motor was seized and so was the squirrel wheel on the shaft. I heated the wheel around the motor shaft and shot some PB on it to soak over the night, today put a little more heat to it and it slide the wheel right off. If anything over the years, I have learned patience and it paid off again. I took a few pics.

The heater is an airflow type but it is the single knob thrift heater so it has the smaller core. After looking at the parts, I see the core mounting plate has a stencil to guide you if you want to cut it out for the larger core (pic #3), which I'm inclined to do. I plan to add a manual shut off valve up on the engine so I can shut the hot water off in the summer.
Also, I see many replacement heater cores are aluminum and the core thickness is substantially less 1.5" versus 2.5" for the copper ones. The price of the aluminum cores is about 1/2 of what a copper one. Mine is original and cannot be rebuilt because the inlet and outlet tubes were destroyed by an owner in the past. I'm inclined to pay the price and getting the full size/thickness core but am really on the fence and need some input.
Replacement fan motors appear cheap and abundant even oreilies has one on the shelf but it is made in china and failed the bench test of not spinning new out of the box. Any info in the direction on a fan motor would be appreciated too. I did verify the original color of the truck , looks like light green. Question , what is the correct color for the heater box, is it semi gloss black??
Steve
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__________________
Steve Stock
Gig Harbor, Wa

1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, SM420
Finished Cab off restoration

1964 GMC 1000
305 V6, SM 420
Restoration is now started, still looking for an oldsmobile style power steering pump

Last edited by tbucketnut; January 5th, 2020 at 04:46 PM.
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